Some problems of edge waves and standing waves on beaches

Some problems of edge waves and standing waves on beaches are examined.

The nonlinear interaction of a wave normally incident on a sloping beach with a subharmonic edge wave is studied. A two-timing expansion is used in the full nonlinear theory to obtain the modulation equations which describe the evolution of the waves. It is shown how large amplitude edge waves are produced; and the results of the theory are compared with some recent laboratory experiments.

Traveling edge waves are considered in two situations. First, the full linear theory is examined to find the finite depth effect on the edge waves produced by a moving pressure disturbance. In the second situation, a Stokes' expansion is used to discuss the nonlinear effects in shallow water edge waves traveling over a bottom of arbitrary shape. The results are compared with the ones of the full theory for a uniformly sloping bottom.

The finite amplitude effects for waves incident on a sloping beach, with perfect reflection, are considered. A Stokes' expansion is used in the full nonlinear theory to find the corrections to the dispersion relation for the cases of normal and oblique incidence.

Finally, an abstract formulation of the linear water waves problem is given in terms of a self adjoint but nonlocal operator. The appropriate spectral representations are developed for two particular cases.

Part I. On the breaking of nonlinear dispersive waves. Part II. Variational principles in continuum mechanics

A model equation for water waves has been suggested by Whitham to study, qualitatively at least, the different kinds of breaking. This is an integro-differential equation which combines a typical nonlinear convection term with an integral for the dispersive effects and is of independent mathematical interest. For an approximate kernel of the form e^(-b|x|) it is shown first that solitary waves have a maximum height with sharp crests and secondly that waves which are sufficiently asymmetric break into "bores." The second part applies to a wide class of bounded kernels, but the kernel giving the correct dispersion effects of water waves has a square root singularity and the present argument does not go through. Nevertheless the possibility of the two kinds of breaking in such integro-differential equations is demonstrated.

Difficulties arise in finding variational principles for continuum mechanics problems in the Eulerian (field) description. The reason is found to be that continuum equations in the original field variables lack a mathematical "self-adjointness" property which is necessary for Euler equations. This is a feature of the Eulerian description and occurs in non-dissipative problems which have variational principles for their Lagrangian description. To overcome this difficulty a "potential representation" approach is used which consists of transforming to new (Eulerian) variables whose equations are self-adjoint. The transformations to the velocity potential or stream function in fluids or the scaler and vector potentials in electromagnetism often lead to variational principles in this way. As yet no general procedure is available for finding suitable transformations. Existing variational principles for the inviscid fluid equations in the Eulerian description are reviewed and some ideas on the form of the appropriate transformations and Lagrangians for fluid problems are obtained. These ideas are developed in a series of examples which include finding variational principles for Rossby waves and for the internal waves of a stratified fluid.

Non-linear dispersive waves with a small dissipation

The general theory of Whitham for slowly-varying non-linear wavetrains is extended to the case where some of the defining partial differential equations cannot be put into conservation form. Typical examples are considered in plasma dynamics and water waves in which the lack of a conservation form is due to dissipation; an additional non-conservative element, the presence of an external force, is treated for the plasma dynamics example. Certain numerical solutions of the water waves problem (the Korteweg-de Vries equation with dissipation) are considered and compared with perturbation expansions about the linearized solution; it is found that the first correction term in the perturbation expansion is an excellent qualitative indicator of the deviation of the dissipative decay rate from linearity.

A method for deriving necessary and sufficient conditions for the existence of a general uniform wavetrain solution is presented and illustrated in the plasma dynamics problem. Peaking of the plasma wave is demonstrated, and it is shown that the necessary and sufficient existence conditions are essentially equivalent to the statement that no wave may have an amplitude larger than the peaked wave.

A new type of fully non-linear stability criterion is developed for the plasma uniform wavetrain. It is shown explicitly that this wavetrain is stable in the near-linear limit. The nature of this new type of stability is discussed.

Steady shock solutions are also considered. By a quite general method, it is demonstrated that the plasma equations studied here have no steady shock solutions whatsoever. A special type of steady shock is proposed, in which a uniform wavetrain joins across a jump discontinuity to a constant state. Such shocks may indeed exist for the Korteweg-de Vries equation, but are barred from the plasma problem because entropy would decrease across the shock front.

Finally, a way of including the Landau damping mechanism in the plasma equations is given. It involves putting in a dissipation term of convolution integral form, and parallels a similar approach of Whitham in water wave theory. An important application of this would be towards resolving long-standing difficulties about the "collisionless" shock.

Tsunamis - a model of their generation and propagation

A general solution is presented for water waves generated by an arbitrary movement of the bed (in space and time) in a two-dimensional fluid domain with a uniform depth. The integral solution which is developed is based on a linearized approximation to the complete (nonlinear) set of governing equations. The general solution is evaluated for the specific case of a uniform upthrust or downthrow of a block section of the bed; two time-displacement histories of the bed movement are considered.

An integral solution (based on a linear theory) is also developed for a three-dimensional fluid domain of uniform depth for a class of bed movements which are axially symmetric. The integral solution is evaluated for the specific case of a block upthrust or downthrow of a section of the bed, circular in planform, with a time-displacement history identical to one of the motions used in the two-dimensional model.

Since the linear solutions are developed from a linearized approximation of the complete nonlinear description of wave behavior, the applicability of these solutions is investigated. Two types of non-linear effects are found which limit the applicability of the linear theory: (1) large nonlinear effects which occur in the region of generation during the bed movement, and (2) the gradual growth of nonlinear effects during wave propagation.

A model of wave behavior, which includes, in an approximate manner, both linear and nonlinear effects is presented for computing wave profiles after the linear theory has become invalid due to the growth of nonlinearities during wave propagation.

An experimental program has been conducted to confirm both the linear model for the two-dimensional fluid domain and the strategy suggested for determining wave profiles during propagation after the linear theory becomes invalid. The effect of a more general time-displacement history of the moving bed than those employed in the theoretical models is also investigated experimentally.

The linear theory is found to accurately approximate the wave behavior in the region of generation whenever the total displacement of the bed is much less than the water depth. Curves are developed and confirmed by the experiments which predict gross features of the lead wave propagating from the region of generation once the values of certain nondimensional parameters (which characterize the generation process) are known. For example, the maximum amplitude of the lead wave propagating from the region of generation has been found to never exceed approximately one-half of the total bed displacement. The gross features of the tsunami resulting from the Alaskan earthquake of 27 March 1964 can be estimated from the results of this study.

Steady capillary-gravity waves on deep water

The properties of capillary-gravity waves of permanent form on deep water are studied. Two different formulations to the problem are given. The theory of simple bifurcation is reviewed. For small amplitude waves a formal perturbation series is used. The Wilton ripple phenomenon is reexamined and shown to be associated with a bifurcation in which a wave of permanent form can double its period. It is shown further that Wilton's ripples are a special case of a more general phenomenon in which bifurcation into subharmonics and factorial higher harmonics can occur. Numerical procedures for the calculation of waves of finite amplitude are developed. Bifurcation and limit lines are calculated. Pure and combination waves are continued to maximum amplitude. It is found that the height is limited in all cases by the surface enclosing one or more bubbles. Results for the shape of gravity waves are obtained by solving an integra-differential equation. It is found that the family of solutions giving the waveheight or equivalent parameter has bifurcation points. Two bifurcation points and the branches emanating from them are found specifically, corresponding to a doubling and tripling of the wavelength. Solutions on the new branches are calculated.

Development of roll waves in open channels

This study is concerned with some of the properties of roll waves that develop naturally from a turbulent uniform flow in a wide rectangular channel on a constant steep slope . The wave properties considered were depth at the wave crest, depth at the wave trough, wave period, and wave velocity . The primary focus was on the mean values and standard deviations of the crest depths and wave periods at a given station and how these quantities varied with distance along the channel.

The wave properties were measured in a laboratory channel in which roll waves developed naturally from a uniform flow . The Froude number F (F = u_n/√gh_n, u_n = normal velocity , h_n = normal depth, g =acceleration of gravity) ranged from 3. 4 to 6. 0 for channel slopes S_o of . 05 and . 12 respectively . In the initial phase of their development the roll waves appeared as small amplitude waves with a continuous water surface profile . These small amplitude waves subsequently developed into large amplitude shock waves. Shock waves were found to overtake and combine with other shock waves with the result that the crest depth of the combined wave was larger than the crest depths before the overtake. Once roll waves began to develop, the mean value of the crest depths h_nmax increased with distance . Once the shock waves began to overtake, the mean wave period T_av increased approximately linearly with distance.

For a given Froude number and channel slope the observed quantities h^-_max/h_n , T' (T' = S_o T_av √g/h_n), and the standard deviations of h^-_max/h_n and T', could be expressed as unique functions of l/h_n (l = distance from beginning of channel) for the two-fold change in h_n occurring in the observed flows . A given value of h^-_max/h_n occurred at smaller values of l/h_n as the Froude number was increased. For a given value of h /hh^-_max/h_n the growth rate of δh^-_max/h^-_maxδl of the shock waves increased as the Froude number was increased.

A laboratory channel was also used to measure the wave properties of periodic permanent roll waves. For a given Froude number and channel slope the h^-_max/h_n vs. T' relation did not agree with a theory in which the weight of the shock front was neglected. After the theory was modified to include this weight, the observed values of h^-_max/h_n were within an average of 6.5 percent of the predicted values, and the maximum discrepancy was 13.5 percent.

For h^-_max/h_n sufficiently large (h^-_max/h_n > approximately 1.5) it was found that the h^-_max/h_n vs. T' relation for natural roll waves was practically identical to the h^-_max/h_n vs. T' relation for periodic permanent roll waves at the same Froude number and slope. As a result of this correspondence between periodic and natural roll waves, the growth rate δh^-_max/h^-_maxδl of shock waves was predicted to depend on the channel slope, and this slope dependence was observed in the experiments.