On the radiation and diffraction of linear water waves by an infinitely long rectangular structure submerged in oblique seas

The radiation and diffraction of linear water waves by an infinitely long rectangular structure submerged in oblique seas of finite depth is investigated. The analytical expressions for the radiated and diffracted potentials are derived as infinite series by use of the method of separation of variables. The unknown coefficients in the series are determined by the eigenfunction expansion matching method. The expressions for wave forces, hydrodynamic coefficients and reflection and transmission coefficients are given and verified by the boundary element method. Using the present analytical solution, the hydrodynamic influences of the angle of incidence, the submergence, the width and the thickness of the structure on the wave forces, hydrodynamic coefficients, and reflection and transmission coefficients are discussed in detail.

Scattering of linear water waves by a fixed and infinitely long rectangular structure parallel to a vertical wall in oblique seas

The scattering of linear water waves by an infinitely long rectangular structure parallel to a vertical wall in oblique seas is investigated. Analytical expressions for the diffracted potentials are derived using the method of separation of variables. The unknown coefficients in the expressions are determined through the application of the eigenfunction expansion matching method. The expressions for wave forces on the structure are given. The calculated results are compared with those obtained by the boundary element method. In addition, the influences of the wall, the angle of wave incidence, the width of the structure, and the distance between the structure and the wall on wave forces are discussed. The method presented here can be easily extended to the study of the diffraction of obliquely incident waves by multiple rectangular structures.

Numerical wave flume study on wave motion around submerged plates

Nonlinear interaction between surface waves and a submerged horizontal plate is investigated in the absorbed numerical wave flume developed based on the volume of fluid (VOF) method. The governing equations of the numerical model are the continuity equation and the Reynolds-Averaged Navier-Stokes (RANS) equations with the k-epsilon turbulence equations. Incident waves are generated by an absorbing wave-maker that eliminates the waves reflected from structures. Results are obtained for a range of parameters, with consideration of the condition under which the reflection coefficient becomes maximal and the transmission coefficient minimal. Wave breaking over the plate, vortex shedding downwave, and pulsating flow below the plate are observed. Time-averaged hydrodynamic force reveals a negative drift force. All these characteristics provide a reference for construction of submerged plate breakwaters.

Estudo de uma solução alternativa para o prolongamento do Molhe - Cais do Porto das Velas, Açores

Trabalho Final de Mestrado para obtenção do grau de Mestre em Engenharia Civil Especialização em Hidráulica

Controlo fotogramétrico da condição de estruturas quebra-mar

Dissertação de natureza Científica para obtenção do grau de Mestre em Engenharia Civil

Utilização de técnicas de análise fotogramétricas em quebra-mares de taludes

Dissertação de Natureza Científica elaborada no Laboratório Nacional de Engenharia Civil (LNEC) para obtenção do grau de mestre em Engenharia Civil na Área de Especialização de Hidráulica no âmbito do protocolo de cooperação entre o ISEL e o LNEC

Simulation Of Shoreline Changes Along Muthalapozhy Harbour, India

A study of Muthalapozhy fishing harbour, located in south India, was conducted for simulating shoreline changes using LITPACK modelling tool. The analysis shows that the estimated advancement in shoreline is of the order of 45 m/year initially, which gradually reduces to 25 m/year. It was also found that the coastline advances more during the south-west monsoon (i.e. June to September) season. Simulation of breakwaters shows that the length of the breakwater should be increased by 200 m for south breakwater and 70 m for north breakwater to keep the channel operational without dredging till 2016. The results of the simulated shoreline will help the port managers for maintaining the channel round the year.

Interaction between wave and coastal structure: Validation of two lagrangian numerical models with experimental results marine 2011

Numerical modeling of the interaction among waves and coastal structures is a challenge due to the many nonlinear phenomena involved, such as, wave propagation, wave transformation with water depth, interaction among incident and reflected waves, run-up / run-down and wave overtopping. Numerical models based on Lagrangian formulation, like SPH (Smoothed Particle Hydrodynamics), allow simulating complex free surface flows. The validation of these numerical models is essential, but comparing numerical results with experimental data is not an easy task. In the present paper, two SPH numerical models, SPHysics LNEC and SPH UNESP, are validated comparing the numerical results of waves interacting with a vertical breakwater, with data obtained in physical model tests made in one of the LNEC's flume. To achieve this validation, the experimental set-up is determined to be compatible with the Characteristics of the numerical models. Therefore, the flume dimensions are exactly the same for numerical and physical model and incident wave characteristics are identical, which allows determining the accuracy of the numerical models, particularly regarding two complex phenomena: wave-breaking and impact loads on the breakwater. It is shown that partial renormalization, i.e. renormalization applied only for particles near the structure, seems to be a promising compromise and an original method that allows simultaneously propagating waves, without diffusion, and modeling accurately the pressure field near the structure.

Effects of habitat characteristics on cryptic fish assemblages

Habitat structure is known to influence the abundance of fishes on temperate reefs. Biotic interactions play a major role in determining the distribution and abundance of species. The significance of these forces in affecting the abundance of fishes may hinge on the presence of organisms that either create or alter habitat. On temperate reefs, for example, macroalgae are considered autogenic ecosystem engineers because they control resource availability to other species through their physical structure and provide much of the structure used by fish. On both coral and temperate reefs, small cryptic reef fishes may comprise up to half of the fish numbers and constitute a diverse community containing many specialized species. Small cryptic fishes (<100 mm total length) may be responsible for the passage of 57% of the energy flow and constitute ca. 35% of the overall reef fish biomass on coral reefs. These benthic fish exploit restricted habitats where food and shelter are obtained in, or in relation to, conditions of substrate complexity and/or restricted living space. A range of mechanisms has been proposed to account for the diversity and the abundance of small fishes: (1) lifehistory strategies that promote short generation times, (2) habitat associations and behaviour that reduce predation and (3) resource partitioning that allows small species to coexist with larger competitors. Despite their abundance and potential importance within reef systems, little is known of the community ecology of cryptic fishes. Specifically on habitat associations many theories suggested a not clear direction on this subject. My research contributes to the development of marine fish ecology by addressing the effects of habitat characteristics upon distribution of cryptobenthic fish assemblages. My focus was on the important shallow, coastal ecosystems that often serve as nursery habitat for many fish and where different type of habitat is likely to both play important roles in organism distribution and survival. My research included three related studies: (1) identification of structuring forces on cryptic fish assemblages, such as physical and biological forcing; (2) macroalgae as potential tools for cryptic fish and identification of different habitat feature that could explain cryptic fish assemblages distribution; (3) canopy formers loss: consequences on cryptic fish and relationship with benthos modifications. I found that: (1) cryptic fish assemblages differ between landward and seaward sides of coastal breakwaters in Adriatic Sea. These differences are explained by 50% of the habitat characteristics on two sides, mainly due to presence of the Codium fragile, sand and oyster assemblages. Microhabitat structure influence cryptic fish assemblages. (2) Different habitat support different cryptic fish assemblages. High heterogeneity on benthic assemblages reflect different fish assemblages. Biogenic components that explain different and diverse cryptic fish assemblages are: anemonia bed, mussel bed, macroalgal stands and Cystoseira barbata, as canopy formers. (3) Canopy forming loss is not relevant in structuring directly cryptic fish assemblages. A removal of canopy forming algae did not affect the structure of cryptic fish assemblages. Canopy formers algae on Conero cliff, does not seem to act as structuring force, probably due to its regressive status. In conclusion, cryptic fish have been shown to have species-specific associations with habitat features relating to the biological and non biological components afforded by fish. Canopy formers algae do not explain cryptic fish assemblages distribution and the results of this study and information from the literature (both from the Mediterranean Sea and elsewhere) show that there are no univocal responses of fish assemblages. Further exanimations on an non regressive status of Cystoseira canopy habitat are needed to define and evaluate the relationship between canopy formers and fish on Mediterranean sea.

Modellazione bidimensionale della propagazione nell'entroterra della inondazione da mare negli scenari dei previsti cambiamenti climatici

Le ricerche di carattere eustatico, mareografico, climatico, archeologico e geocronologico, sviluppatesi soprattutto nell’ultimo ventennio, hanno messo in evidenza che gran parte delle piane costiere italiane risulta soggetta al rischio di allagamento per ingressione marina dovuta alla risalita relativa del livello medio del mare. Tale rischio è la conseguenza dell’interazione tra la presenza di elementi antropici e fenomeni di diversa natura, spesso difficilmente discriminabili e quantificabili, caratterizzati da magnitudo e velocità molto diverse tra loro. Tra le cause preponderanti che determinano l’ingressione marina possono essere individuati alcuni fenomeni naturali, climatici e geologici, i quali risultano fortemente influenzati dalle attività umane soprattutto a partire dal XX secolo. Tra questi si individuano: - la risalita del livello del mare, principalmente come conseguenza del superamento dell’ultimo acme glaciale e dello scioglimento delle grandi calotte continentali; - la subsidenza. Vaste porzioni delle piane costiere italiane risultano soggette a fenomeni di subsidenza. In certe zone questa assume proporzioni notevoli: per la fascia costiera emiliano-romagnola si registrano ratei compresi tra 1 e 3 cm/anno. Tale subsidenza è spesso il risultato della sovrapposizione tra fenomeni naturali (neotettonica, costipamento di sedimenti, ecc.) e fenomeni indotti dall’uomo (emungimenti delle falde idriche, sfruttamento di giacimenti metaniferi, escavazione di materiali per l’edilizia, ecc.); - terreni ad elevato contenuto organico: la presenza di depositi fortemente costipabili può causare la depressione del piano di campagna come conseguenza di abbassamenti del livello della falda superficiale (per drenaggi, opere di bonifica, emungimenti), dello sviluppo dei processi di ossidazione e decomposizione nei terreni stessi, del costipamento di questi sotto il proprio peso, della carenza di nuovi apporti solidi conseguente alla diminuita frequenza delle esondazioni dei corsi d’acqua; - morfologia: tra i fattori di rischio rientra l’assetto morfologico della piana e, in particolare il tipo di costa (lidi, spiagge, cordoni dunari in smantellamento, ecc. ), la presenza di aree depresse o comunque vicine al livello del mare (fino a 1-2 m s.l.m.), le caratteristiche dei fondali antistanti (batimetria, profilo trasversale, granulometria dei sedimenti, barre sommerse, assenza di barriere biologiche, ecc.); - stato della linea di costa in termini di processi erosivi dovuti ad attività umane (urbanizzazione del litorale, prelievo inerti, costruzione di barriere, ecc.) o alle dinamiche idro-sedimentarie naturali cui risulta soggetta (correnti litoranee, apporti di materiale, ecc. ). Scopo del presente studio è quello di valutare la probabilità di ingressione del mare nel tratto costiero emiliano-romagnolo del Lido delle Nazioni, la velocità di propagazione del fronte d’onda, facendo riferimento allo schema idraulico del crollo di una diga su letto asciutto (problema di Riemann) basato sul metodo delle caratteristiche, e di modellare la propagazione dell’inondazione nell’entroterra, conseguente all’innalzamento del medio mare . Per simulare tale processo è stato utilizzato il complesso codice di calcolo bidimensionale Mike 21. La fase iniziale di tale lavoro ha comportato la raccolta ed elaborazione mediante sistema Arcgis dei dati LIDAR ed idrografici multibeam , grazie ai quali si è provveduto a ricostruire la topo-batimetria di dettaglio della zona esaminata. Nel primo capitolo è stato sviluppato il problema del cambiamento climatico globale in atto e della conseguente variazione del livello marino che, secondo quanto riportato dall’IPCC nel rapporto del 2007, dovrebbe aumentare al 2100 mediamente tra i 28 ed i 43 cm. Nel secondo e terzo capitolo è stata effettuata un’analisi bibliografica delle metodologie per la modellazione della propagazione delle onde a fronte ripido con particolare attenzione ai fenomeni di breaching delle difese rigide ed ambientali. Sono state studiate le fenomenologie che possono inficiare la stabilità dei rilevati arginali, realizzati sia in corrispondenza dei corsi d’acqua, sia in corrispondenza del mare, a discapito della protezione idraulica del territorio ovvero dell’incolumità fisica dell’uomo e dei territori in cui esso vive e produce. In un rilevato arginale, quale che sia la causa innescante la formazione di breccia, la generazione di un’onda di piena conseguente la rottura è sempre determinata da un’azione erosiva (seepage o overtopping) esercitata dall’acqua sui materiali sciolti costituenti il corpo del rilevato. Perciò gran parte dello studio in materia di brecce arginali è incentrato sulla ricostruzione di siffatti eventi di rottura. Nel quarto capitolo è stata calcolata la probabilità, in 5 anni, di avere un allagamento nella zona di interesse e la velocità di propagazione del fronte d’onda. Inoltre è stata effettuata un’analisi delle condizioni meteo marine attuali (clima ondoso, livelli del mare e correnti) al largo della costa emiliano-romagnola, le cui problematiche e linee di intervento per la difesa sono descritte nel quinto capitolo, con particolare riferimento alla costa ferrarese, oggetto negli ultimi anni di continui interventi antropici. Introdotto il sistema Gis e le sue caratteristiche, si è passati a descrivere le varie fasi che hanno permesso di avere in output il file delle coordinate x, y, z dei punti significativi della costa, indispensabili al fine della simulazione Mike 21, le cui proprietà sono sviluppate nel sesto capitolo.

Effects of artificial defences and flooding on coastal habitats and assemblages

Since large stretches of European coasts are already retreating and projected scenarios are worsening, many artificial structures, such as breakwaters and seawalls, are built as tool against coastal erosion. However artificial structures produce widespread changes that alter the coastal zones and affect the biological communities. My doctoral thesis analyses the consequences of different options for coastal protection, namely hard engineering ‘artificial defences’ (i.e. impact of human-made structures) and ‘no-defence’ (i.e. impact of seawater inundation). I investigated two new aspects of the potential impact of coastal defences. The first was the effect of artificial hard substrates on the fish communities structure. In particular I was interested to test if the differences among breakwaters and natural rocky reef would change depending on the nature of the surrounding habitat of the artificial structure (prevalent sandy rather than rocky). The second was the effect on the native natural sandy habitats of the organic detritus derived from hard-bottom species (green algae and mussels) detached from breakwaters. Furthermore, I investigated the ecological implication of the “no-defend” option, which allow the inundation of coastal habitats. The focus of this study was the potential effect of seawater intrusion on the degradation process of marine, salt-marsh and terrestrial detritus, including changes on the breakdown rates and the associated macrofauna. The PhD research was conducted in three areas along European coasts: North Adriatic sea, Sicilian coast and South-West England where different habitats (coastal, estuarine), biological communities (soft-bottom macro-benthos; rocky-coastal fishes; estuarine macro-invertebrates) and processes (organic enrichment; assemblage structure; leaf-litter breakdown) were analyzed. The research was carried out through manipulative and descriptive field-experiments in which specific hypothesis were tested by univariate and multivariate analyses.

Neural network modelling of the wave-structure interaction processes

This thesis presents a new Artificial Neural Network (ANN) able to predict at once the main parameters representative of the wave-structure interaction processes, i.e. the wave overtopping discharge, the wave transmission coefficient and the wave reflection coefficient. The new ANN has been specifically developed in order to provide managers and scientists with a tool that can be efficiently used for design purposes. The development of this ANN started with the preparation of a new extended and homogeneous database that collects all the available tests reporting at least one of the three parameters, for a total amount of 16’165 data. The variety of structure types and wave attack conditions in the database includes smooth, rock and armour unit slopes, berm breakwaters, vertical walls, low crested structures, oblique wave attacks. Some of the existing ANNs were compared and improved, leading to the selection of a final ANN, whose architecture was optimized through an in-depth sensitivity analysis to the training parameters of the ANN. Each of the selected 15 input parameters represents a physical aspect of the wave-structure interaction process, describing the wave attack (wave steepness and obliquity, breaking and shoaling factors), the structure geometry (submergence, straight or non-straight slope, with or without berm or toe, presence or not of a crown wall), or the structure type (smooth or covered by an armour layer, with permeable or impermeable core). The advanced ANN here proposed provides accurate predictions for all the three parameters, and demonstrates to overcome the limits imposed by the traditional formulae and approach adopted so far by some of the existing ANNs. The possibility to adopt just one model to obtain a handy and accurate evaluation of the overall performance of a coastal or harbor structure represents the most important and exportable result of the work.

(Table 1) Sea level during storm surges at various sites along the german Baltic Sea coast

A seawall was constructed in 1897 along the steep coast of Streckelsberg, Usedom Island to stop the cliff retreat. It was destroyed several times by storm induced sea floods, reconstructed and gradually extended to a length of 450 m. After the severe storm event of 1/2.3.1949, no more repair work was implemented. The ruins were no longer capable of preventing further erosion of the Streckelsberg cliff. A new protective structure became a necessity against ongoing erosion, and to check the lowering of the abrasion platform. The construction of three breakwaters began in 1995. A severe storm occurred on 3/4.11.1995 before their completion. Coastal bottom sediment mapping using a sidescan-sonar carried out two days later showed that a channel system down to a depth of 1.5 m was cut into the sand layer covering the sea floor on both sides of the Koserow Bank. The bottom of these channels was paved with gravel and boulders. This layer was encountered in the whole surveyed area below a mobile sand layer. Discharged bodies of fine sand half a meter high and erosional cavities several m2 in diameter around boulders led to the conclusion that an intensive sediment movement down to a depth of 11 m had taken place during the storm. A storm related direction of sediment discharge could not be identified. The existing section of the breakwaters withstood the severe storm.

Ground maritime structure interaction. Recent failures in inner gravity constructions on the Spanish Coastline

A maritime construction is usually a slender line in the ocean.It is usual to see just its narrow surface strip and not analyse the large amount of submerged material the latter is supporting.Without doubt,it is the ground to which a notable load is transmitted in an environment subjected to periodic,alternating stresses,dynamic forces which the sea's media constitute. Both an outer and inner maritime construction works in a complex fashion.A granular solid(breakwater)breathes with the incident wave flow,dissipating part of the wave energy between its gaps.The backflow tries to extract the different items from the solid block,setting a balance between effective and neutral tensions that follow Terzaghui's principle. On some occasions,fluidification of the armour layer has caused the breakwater to collapse(Sines,Portugal,February 1978).On others,siphoning or liquefaction of sand supporting monoliths(vertical breakwaters)lead them to destruction or collapse(New Barcelona Harbour Mouth,Spain,November 2001). This is why the ground-force-structure interaction is a complicated analysis with joint design tools still in an incipient state. The purpose of this article is to describe two singular failures in inner maritime constructions in Spain deriving from ground problems(Malaga,July 2004and Barcelona,January 2007).They occurred recently and the causes are the subject of reflection and analysis.