Two-dimensional approximation for tide-induced watertable fluctuations in a sloping sandy beach

The prediction of watertable fluctuations in a coastal aquifer is important for coastal management. However, most previous approaches have based on the one-dimensional Boussinesq equation, neglecting variations in the coastline and beach slope. In this paper, a closed-form analytical solution for a two-dimensional unconfined coastal aquifer bounded by a rhythmic coastline is derived. In the new model, the effect of beach slope is also included, a feature that has not been considered in previous two-dimensional approximations. Three small parameters, the shallow water parameter (epsilon), the amplitude parameter (a) and coastline parameter (beta) are used in the perturbation approximation. The numerical results demonstrate the significant influence of both the coastline shape and beach slopes on tide-driven coastal groundwater fluctuations. (c) 2004 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.

Tourists and beach safety in Queensland, Australia

Surf Life Saving Queensland (SLSQ) is a leading authority on beach safety, providing patrol, education, and rescue services to both tourists and local residents along the coast of Queensland, Australia. SLSQ recognizes that tourists are a target group requiring special attention due to their unfamiliarity with ocean beaches and surfing activities, and in some cases having the additional challenge of poor swimming skills, language barriers, and disorientation in a foreign vacation environment. This article describes SLSQ initiatives to provide beach safety for tourists through a focus on service delivery and partnerships with the tourism industry and relevant government agencies. The positive involvement of SLSQ in tourism is a model for other coastal destinations, given that drowning is the second most frequent cause of injury death among international travelers.

Long wave generation by the shoaling and breaking of transient wave groups on a beach

This paper presents new laboratory data on the generation of long waves by the shoaling and breaking of transient-focused short-wave groups. Direct offshore radiation of long waves from the breakpoint is shown experimentally for the first time. High spatial resolution enables identification of the relationship between the spatial gradients of the short-wave envelope and the long-wave surface. This relationship is consistent with radiation stress theory even well inside the surf zone and appears as a result of the strong nonlinear forcing associated with the transient group. In shallow water, the change in depth across the group leads to asymmetry in the forcing which generates significant dynamic setup in front of the group during shoaling. Strong amplification of the incident dynamic setup occurs after short-wave breaking. The data show the radiation of a transient long wave dominated by a pulse of positive elevation, preceded and followed by weaker trailing waves with negative elevation. The instantaneous cross-shore structure of the long wave shows the mechanics of the reflection process and the formation of a transient node in the inner surf zone. The wave run-up and relative amplitude of the radiated and incident long waves suggests significant modification of the incident bound wave in the inner surf zone and, the dominance of long waves generated by the breaking process. It is proposed that these conditions occur when the primary short waves and bound wave are not shallow water waves at the breakpoint. A simple criterion is given to determine these conditions, which generally occur for the important case of storm waves.

Beach face and berm morphodynamics fronting a coastal lagoon

This study documents two different modes of berm development: (I) vertical growth at spring tides or following significant beach cut due to substantial swash overtopping, and (2) horizontal progradation at neap tides through the formation of a proto-berm located lower and further seaward of the principal berm. Concurrent high-frequency measurements of bed elevation and the associated wave runup distribution reveal the details of each of these berm growth modes. In mode I sediment is eroded from the inner surf and lower swash zone where swash interactions are prevalent. The net transport of this sediment is landward only, resulting in accretion onto the upper beach face and over the berm crest. The final outcome is a steepening of the beach face gradient, a change in the profile shape towards concave and rapid vertical and horizontal growth of the berm. In mode 2 sediment is eroded from the lower two-thirds of the active swash zone during the rising tide and is transported both landward and seaward. On the falling tide sediment is eroded from the inner surf and transported landward to backfill the zone eroded on the rising tide. The net result is relatively slow steepening of the beach face, a change of the profile shape towards convex, and horizontal progradation through the formation of a neap berm. The primary factor determining which mode of berm growth occurs is the presence or absence of swash overtopping at the time of sediment accumulation on the beach face. This depends on the current phase of the spring-neap tide cycle, the wave runup height (and indirectly offshore wave conditions) and the height of the pre-existing berm. A conceptual model for berm morphodynamics is presented, based on sediment transport shape functions measured during the two modes of berm growth. (c) 2006 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.

Swash-aquifer interaction in the vicinity of the water table exit point on a sandy beach

The coupling of sandy beach aquifers with the swash zone in the vicinity of the water table exit point is investigated through simultaneous measurements of the instantaneous shoreline (swash front) location, pore pressures and the water table exit point. The field observations reveal new insights into swash-aquifer coupling not previously gleaned from measurements of pore pressure only. In particular, for the case where the exit point is seaward of the observation point, the pore pressure response is correlated with the distance between the exit point and the shoreline in that when the distance is large the rate of pressure drop is fast and when the distance is small the rate decreases. The observations expose limitations in a simple model describing exit point dynamics which is based only on the force balance on a particle of water at the sand surface and neglects subsurface pressures. A new modified form of the model is shown to significantly improve the model-data comparison through a parameterization of the effects of capillarity into the aquifer storage coefficient. The model enables sufficiently accurate predictions of the exit point to determine when the swash uprush propagates over a saturated or a partially saturated sand surface, potentially an important factor in the morphological evolution of the beach face. Observations of the shoreward propagation of the swash-induced pore pressure waves ahead of the runup limit shows that the magnitude of the pressure fluctuation decays exponentially and that there is a linear increase in time lags, behavior similar to that of tidally induced water table waves. The location of the exit point and the intermittency of wave runup events is also shown to be significant in terms of the shore-normal energy distribution. Seaward of the mean exit point location, peak energies are small because of the saturated sand surface within the seepage face acting as a "rigid lid'' and limiting pressure fluctuations. Landward of the mean exit point the peak energies grow before decreasing landward of the maximum shoreline position.

Measurement and modelling of controlled beach groundwater levels under wave action

New laboratory scale experimental data are presented on the forcing of beach groundwater levels by wave run-up. The experimental setup simulates a coastal barrier dividing the ocean from a relatively constant back beach water level, conditions approximating a closed off lagoon system or beach aquifer. The data are critically compared to an advanced numerical model for simulating wave and beach groundwater interaction in the coastal zone, and provide the first experimental verification of such a model. Overall model-data comparisons are good, but some systematic discrepancies are apparent, and reasons for these are discussed.

Dynamics of a transient wave group breaking on a beach

New experimental data are presented on the dynamics of a transient wave group breaking on a beach. The transient group is tracked during shoaling and wave breaking, together with the long waves forced during those processes. High spatial sampling enables novel resolution of the evolution of the wave envelope during breaking and the correlation between the envelope and the long waves. The data show a strong dynamic long wave setup in front of the group in shallow water. The amplitude of the dynamic setup is likely to be a function of beach slope, and larger on steeper beaches.

A Cultura Caiçara do Litoral Norte Paulista mostrada na revista Beach&Co Estereótipos do caiçara das cidades de Caraguatatuba, São Sebastião, Ubatuba e Ilhabela em um veículo regional impresso

Estudo dos estereótipos que a revista regional Beach&Co fez do caiçara - povo nativo que mantém uma cultura relacionada ao mar e a mata nas cidades de Caraguatatuba, São Sebastião, Ubatuba e Ilhabela, no Litoral Norte Paulista. Aplicou-se uma metodologia de caráter híbrido que mesclou os Estudos Culturais com base nas obras de Douglas Kellner, Stuart Hall e Raymond Williams com a Análise de Discurso nas obras de Dominique Maingueneau, Eni Orlandi, Patrick Charaudeau e Audre Alberguine. Também foram resgatados os estudos da Cultura Caiçara feitos por Carlos Diegues, Gioconda Mussolini, Emilio Willems, e por fim redefiniu-se o gênero jornalístico Reportagem e contextualizou-se o Jornalismo Regional de Revista. Posteriormente, analisou-se a primeira década da revista Beach&Co, totalizando 120 edições publicadas de janeiro de 2002 a junho de 2012, no qual foram mostradas as diversas abordagens que a publicação fez do caiçara, bem como a evolução da própria revista nos aspectos editoriais, comercial e de design gráfico. Em seguida, selecionou-se 23 reportagens nas editorias de turismo, gastronomia, esportes e outras relacionadas à Cultura Caiçara, que tiveram seus discursos semânticos e os elementos valorativos de linguagens analisados. Nas conclusões, constatou-se que a cobertura jornalística da Beach&Co privilegia as áreas do turismo e do desenvolvimento do Litoral Norte e Baixada Santista; que a revista passou por readaptações e esquematismos dominantes na produção jornalística e encontrou mercado nas especificidades do Litoral Paulista; a Beach&Co se consolidou como uma revista regional profissional, de qualidade e criativa, distante do amadorismo, do bairrismo e da mimetização simplista; apesar de muitas vezes ter usado o caiçara para adjetivar os aspectos turísticos e gastronômicos do Litoral Norte, a revista trabalhou a produção simbólica do caiçara de forma ampla e retratou vários aspectos da Cultura Caiçara, reforçando o poder desta revista regional, como retroalimentando os sotaques do Litoral Paulista nas demais regiões do país onde a publicação também é lida.

Source/receptor reconciliation of ambient organic fine particulate matter in Palm Beach County

Airborne particulate matter (PM) is of environmental concern not only in urban but also rural areas that are easily inhalable and have been considered responsible, together with gaseous pollutants, for possible health effects. The objectives of this research study is to generate an extensive data set for ambient PM collected at Belle Glade and Delray Beach that ultimately was used together with published source profiles to predict the contributions of major sources to the overall airborne particle burden in Belle Glade and Delray Beach. ^ The size segregated particle sampling was conducted for one entire year. The samples collected during the months of January and May were further subjected to chemical analysis for organic compounds by Gas Chromatography-Mass Spectrometry. Additional, PM10 sampling was conducted simultaneously with size segregated particle sampling during January and May to analyze for trace elements using Instrumental Neutron Activation Analysis technique. Elements and organic marker compounds were used in Chemical Mass Balance modeling to determine the major source contribution to the ambient fine particle matter burden. ^ Size segregated particle distribution results show bimodal in both sampling sites. Sugarcane pre-harvest burning in the rural site elevated PM10 concentration by about 30% during the sugarcane harvest season compared to sugarcane growing season. Sea salt particles and Saharan dust particles accounted for the external sources. ^ The results of trace element analysis show that Al, Ca, Cs, Eu, Lu, Nd, Sc, Sm, Th, and Yb are more abundant at the rural sampling site. The trace elements Ba, Br, Ce, Cl, Cr, Fe, Gd, Hf, Na, Sb, Ta, V, and W show high abundance at the urban site due to anthropogenic activities except for Na and Cl, which are from sea salt spray. On the other hand, size segregated trace organic compounds measurements show that organic compounds mainly from combustion process were accumulated in PM0.95. ^ In conclusion, major particle sources were determined by the CMB8.2 software as follows: road dust, sugarcane leaf burning, diesel-powered and gasoline powered vehicle exhaust, leaf surface abrasion particles, and a very small fraction of meat cooking. ^

Airborne laser quantification of Florida shoreline and beach volume change caused by hurricanes

This dissertation combines three separate studies that measure coastal change using airborne laser data. The initial study develops a method for measuring subaerial and subaqueous volume change incrementally alongshore, and compares those measurements to shoreline change in order to quantify their relationship in Palm Beach County, Florida. A poor correlation (R2 = 0.39) was found between shoreline and volume change before the hurricane season in the northern section of Palm Beach County because of beach nourishment and inlet dynamics. However, a relatively high R2 value of 0.78 in the southern section of Palm Beach County was found due to little disturbance from tidal inlets and coastal engineering projects. The shoreline and volume change caused by the 2004 hurricane season was poorly correlated with R 2 values of 0.02 and 0.42 for the north and south sections, respectively. The second study uses airborne laser data to investigate if there is a significant relationship between shoreline migration before and after Hurricane Ivan near Panama City, Florida. In addition, the relationship between shoreline change and subaerial volume was quantified and a new method for quantifying subaqueous sediment change was developed. No significant spatial relationship was found between shoreline migration before and after the hurricane. Utilization of a single coefficient to represent all relationships between shoreline and subaerial volume change was found to be problematic due to the spatial variability in the linear relationship. Differences in bathymetric data show only a small portion of sediment was transported beyond the active zone and most sediment remained within the active zone despite the occurrence of a hurricane. The third study uses airborne laser bathymetry to measure the offshore limit of change, and compares that location with calculated depth of closures and subaqueous geomorphology. There appears to be strong geologic control of the depth of closure in Broward and Miami-Dade Counties. North of Hillsboro Inlet, hydrodynamics control the geomorphology which in turn indicates the location of the depth of closure.

Close-Up of Charles and Betty Perry in their Palm Beach Home

Close-Up of Charles and Betty Perry in their Palm Beach Home. Charles Edward Perry (Chuck), 1937-1999, was the founding president of Florida International University in Miami, Florida. He grew up in Logan County, West Virginia and received his bachelor's and masters's degrees from Bowling Green State University. He married Betty Laird in 1960. In 1969, at the age of 32, Perry was the youngest president of any university in the nation. The name of the university reflects Perry’s desire for a title that would not limit the scope of the institution and would support his vision of having close ties to Latin America. Perry and a founding corps opened FIU to 5,667 students in 1972 with only one large building housing six different schools. Perry left the office of President of FIU in 1976 when the student body had grown to 10,000 students and the university had six buildings, offered 134 different degrees and was fully accredited. Charles Perry died on August 30, 1999 at his home in Rockwall, Texas. He is buried on the FIU campus in front of the Graham Center entrance. Betty Laird Perry was born Betty Laird in Ashland, Ohio. She attended Akron General Hospital School of Nursing, where she was the president of the Akron, Ohio TriCity Student Government Association. She received a 3 year diploma in nursing in 1960 and took her state board exams for licensure as an RN that same year. Ultimately, she became licensed in Ohio, Florida and Texas. She met Charles Perry in 1959 and the couple married on September 17, 1960, in Ashland, Ohio; the same week of her graduation. Betty began her nursing career at the Bowling Green State University campus Health Center while Chuck worked on the Admissions staff. In 1974, Mrs. Perry received her BSN from Florida International University and in 1985 she earned a Master's Degree in Healthcare Policy and Planning from Georgia State University. She went on to start her own business, BC Golf, Ltd., in 1992 where she was recognized by Cambridge’s Who's Who for demonstrating dedication, leadership and excellence in business management. Betty’s passion for art is reflected in the Student Art Award at Florida International University which she and Charles Perry started. In 2010-2011, Betty made a generous donation to the Patricia & Phillip Frost Art Museum Building Fund at Florida International University where she has a gallery named in her honor that is dedicated to student, faculty, and alumni exhibitions.

Charles and Betty Perry in their Palm Beach Home.

Charles and Betty Perry in their Palm Beach home. Charles Edward Perry (Chuck), 1937-1999, was the founding president of Florida International University in Miami, Florida. He grew up in Logan County, West Virginia and graduated from Bowling Green State University. He married Betty Laird in 1960. In 1969, at the age of 32, Perry was the youngest president of any university in the nation. The name of the university reflects Perry’s desire for a title that would not limit the scope of the institution and would support his vision of having close ties to Latin America. Perry and a founding corps opened FIU to 5,667 students in 1972 with only one large building housing six different schools. Perry left the office of President of FIU in 1976 when the student body had grown to 10,000 students and the university had six buildings, offered 134 different degrees and was fully accredited. Charles Perry died on August 30, 1999 at his home in Rockwall, Texas. He is buried on the FIU campus in front of the Graham Center entrance. Betty Laird Perry was born Betty Laird in Ashland, Ohio. She attended Akron General Hospital School of Nursing, where she was the president of the Akron, Ohio TriCity Student Government Association. She received a 3 year diploma in nursing in 1960 and took her state board exams for licensure as an RN that same year. Ultimately, she became licensed in Ohio, Florida and Texas. She met Charles Perry in 1959 and the couple married on September 17, 1960, in Ashland, Ohio; the same week of her graduation. Betty began her nursing career at the Bowling Green State University campus Health Center while Chuck worked on the Admissions staff. In 1974, Mrs. Perry received her BSN from Florida International University and in 1985 she earned a Master's Degree in Healthcare Policy and Planning from Georgia State University. She went on to start her own business, BC Golf, Ltd., in 1992 where she was recognized by Cambridge’s Who's Who for demonstrating dedication, leadership and excellence in business management. Betty’s passion for art is reflected in the Student Art Award at Florida International University which she and Charles Perry started. In 2010-2011, Betty made a generous donation to the Patricia & Phillip Frost Art Museum Building Fund at Florida International University where she has a gallery named in her honor that is dedicated to student, faculty, and alumni exhibitions.