Some problems of edge waves and standing waves on beaches

Some problems of edge waves and standing waves on beaches are examined.

The nonlinear interaction of a wave normally incident on a sloping beach with a subharmonic edge wave is studied. A two-timing expansion is used in the full nonlinear theory to obtain the modulation equations which describe the evolution of the waves. It is shown how large amplitude edge waves are produced; and the results of the theory are compared with some recent laboratory experiments.

Traveling edge waves are considered in two situations. First, the full linear theory is examined to find the finite depth effect on the edge waves produced by a moving pressure disturbance. In the second situation, a Stokes' expansion is used to discuss the nonlinear effects in shallow water edge waves traveling over a bottom of arbitrary shape. The results are compared with the ones of the full theory for a uniformly sloping bottom.

The finite amplitude effects for waves incident on a sloping beach, with perfect reflection, are considered. A Stokes' expansion is used in the full nonlinear theory to find the corrections to the dispersion relation for the cases of normal and oblique incidence.

Finally, an abstract formulation of the linear water waves problem is given in terms of a self adjoint but nonlocal operator. The appropriate spectral representations are developed for two particular cases.

A study of the proposed Diamond Creek Reservoir

Politically the Colorado river is an interstate as well as an international stream. Physically the basin divides itself distinctly into three sections. The upper section from head waters to the mouth of San Juan comprises about 40 percent of the total of the basin and affords about 87 percent of the total runoff, or an average of about 15 000 000 acre feet per annum. High mountains and cold weather are found in this section. The middle section from the mouth of San Juan to the mouth of the Williams comprises about 35 percent of the total area of the basin and supplies about 7 percent of the annual runoff. Narrow canyons and mild weather prevail in this section. The lower third of the basin is composed of mainly hot arid plains of low altitude. It comprises some 25 percent of the total area of the basin and furnishes about 6 percent of the average annual runoff.

The proposed Diamond Creek reservoir is located in the middle section and is wholly within the boundary of Arizona. The site is at the mouth of Diamond Creek and is only 16 m. from Beach Spring, a station on the Santa Fe railroad. It is solely a power project with a limited storage capacity. The dam which creats the reservoir is of the gravity type to be constructed across the river. The walls and foundation are of granite. For a dam of 290 feet in height, the back water will be about 25 m. up the river.

The power house will be placed right below the dam perpendicular to the axis of the river. It is entirely a concrete structure. The power installation would consist of eighteen 37 500 H.P. vertical, variable head turbines, directly connected to 28 000 kwa. 110 000 v. 3 phase, 60 cycle generators with necessary switching and auxiliary apparatus. Each unit is to be fed by a separate penstock wholly embedded into the masonry.

Concerning the power market, the main electric transmission lines would extend to Prescott, Phoenix, Mesa, Florence etc. The mining regions of the mountains of Arizona would be the most adequate market. The demand of power in the above named places might not be large at present. It will, from the observation of the writer, rapidly increase with the wonderful advancement of all kinds of industrial development.

All these things being comparatively feasible, there is one difficult problem: that is the silt. At the Diamond Creek dam site the average annual silt discharge is about 82 650 acre feet. The geographical conditions, however, will not permit silt deposites right in the reservoir. So this design will be made under the assumption given in Section 4.

The silt condition and the change of lower course of the Colorado are much like those of the Yellow River in China. But one thing is different. On the Colorado most of the canyon walls are of granite, while those on the Yellow are of alluvial loess: so it is very hard, if not impossible, to get a favorable dam site on the lower part. As a visitor to this country, I should like to see the full development of the Colorado: but how about THE YELLOW!

Report on the Linda Vista bridge site

The Linda Vista Bridge spans the Arroyo Seco about a quarter of a mile above the Colorado Street Bridge, but serves an entirely different territory; as there is no road between there on the west bank. Los Angeles, Hollywood, and several of the beach cities can be reached by the way of the Colorado Street Bridge. The Linda Vista Bridge carries the traffic to the northwest of Pasadena, that is, Flintridge, Linda Vista, Montrose, Sunland. After leaving the bridge, the road follows the west bank of the Arroyo almost to the mouth of the canyon; then to the west along the foot of the mountains and into the San Fernando Valley.

Wave induced oscillations in harbors of arbitrary shape

Theoretical and experimental studies were conducted to investigate the wave induced oscillations in an arbitrary shaped harbor with constant depth which is connected to the open-sea.

A theory termed the “arbitrary shaped harbor” theory is developed. The solution of the Helmholtz equation, ∇²f + k²f = 0, is formulated as an integral equation; an approximate method is employed to solve the integral equation by converting it to a matrix equation. The final solution is obtained by equating, at the harbor entrance, the wave amplitude and its normal derivative obtained from the solutions for the regions outside and inside the harbor.

Two special theories called the circular harbor theory and the rectangular harbor theory are also developed. The coordinates inside a circular and a rectangular harbor are separable; therefore, the solution for the region inside these harbors is obtained by the method of separation of variables. For the solution in the open-sea region, the same method is used as that employed for the arbitrary shaped harbor theory. The final solution is also obtained by a matching procedure similar to that used for the arbitrary shaped harbor theory. These two special theories provide a useful analytical check on the arbitrary shaped harbor theory.

Experiments were conducted to verify the theories in a wave basin 15 ft wide by 31 ft long with an effective system of wave energy dissipators mounted along the boundary to simulate the open-sea condition.

Four harbors were investigated theoretically and experimentally: circular harbors with a 10° opening and a 60° opening, a rectangular harbor, and a model of the East and West Basins of Long Beach Harbor located in Long Beach, California.

Theoretical solutions for these four harbors using the arbitrary shaped harbor theory were obtained. In addition, the theoretical solutions for the circular harbors and the rectangular harbor using the two special theories were also obtained. In each case, the theories have proven to agree well with the experimental data.

It is found that: (1) the resonant frequencies for a specific harbor are predicted correctly by the theory, although the amplification factors at resonance are somewhat larger than those found experimentally,(2) for the circular harbors, as the width of the harbor entrance increases, the amplification at resonance decreases, but the wave number bandwidth at resonance increases, (3) each peak in the curve of entrance velocity vs incident wave period corresponds to a distinct mode of resonant oscillation inside the harbor, thus the velocity at the harbor entrance appears to be a good indicator for resonance in harbors of complicated shape, (4) the results show that the present theory can be applied with confidence to prototype harbors with relatively uniform depth and reflective interior boundaries.