Airborne laser quantification of Florida shoreline and beach volume change caused by hurricanes

This dissertation combines three separate studies that measure coastal change using airborne laser data. The initial study develops a method for measuring subaerial and subaqueous volume change incrementally alongshore, and compares those measurements to shoreline change in order to quantify their relationship in Palm Beach County, Florida. A poor correlation (R2 = 0.39) was found between shoreline and volume change before the hurricane season in the northern section of Palm Beach County because of beach nourishment and inlet dynamics. However, a relatively high R2 value of 0.78 in the southern section of Palm Beach County was found due to little disturbance from tidal inlets and coastal engineering projects. The shoreline and volume change caused by the 2004 hurricane season was poorly correlated with R 2 values of 0.02 and 0.42 for the north and south sections, respectively. The second study uses airborne laser data to investigate if there is a significant relationship between shoreline migration before and after Hurricane Ivan near Panama City, Florida. In addition, the relationship between shoreline change and subaerial volume was quantified and a new method for quantifying subaqueous sediment change was developed. No significant spatial relationship was found between shoreline migration before and after the hurricane. Utilization of a single coefficient to represent all relationships between shoreline and subaerial volume change was found to be problematic due to the spatial variability in the linear relationship. Differences in bathymetric data show only a small portion of sediment was transported beyond the active zone and most sediment remained within the active zone despite the occurrence of a hurricane. The third study uses airborne laser bathymetry to measure the offshore limit of change, and compares that location with calculated depth of closures and subaqueous geomorphology. There appears to be strong geologic control of the depth of closure in Broward and Miami-Dade Counties. North of Hillsboro Inlet, hydrodynamics control the geomorphology which in turn indicates the location of the depth of closure.

Airborne Laser Quantification of Florida Shoreline and Beach Volume Change Caused by Hurricanes

This dissertation combines three separate studies that measure coastal change using airborne laser data. The initial study develops a method for measuring subaerial and subaqueous volume change incrementally alongshore, and compares those measurements to shoreline change in order to quantify their relationship in Palm Beach County, Florida. A poor correlation (R2 = 0.39) was found between shoreline and volume change before the hurricane season in the northern section of Palm Beach County because of beach nourishment and inlet dynamics. However, a relatively high R2 value of 0.78 in the southern section of Palm Beach County was found due to little disturbance from tidal inlets and coastal engineering projects. The shoreline and volume change caused by the 2004 hurricane season was poorly correlated with R2 values of 0.02 and 0.42 for the north and south sections, respectively. The second study uses airborne laser data to investigate if there is a significant relationship between shoreline migration before and after Hurricane Ivan near Panama City, Florida. In addition, the relationship between shoreline change and subaerial volume was quantified and a new method for quantifying subaqueous sediment change was developed. No significant spatial relationship was found between shoreline migration before and after the hurricane. Utilization of a single coefficient to represent all relationships between shoreline and subaerial volume change was found to be problematic due to the spatial variability in the linear relationship. Differences in bathymetric data show only a small portion of sediment was transported beyond the active zone and most sediment remained within the active zone despite the occurrence of a hurricane. The third study uses airborne laser bathymetry to measure the offshore limit of change, and compares that location with calculated depth of closures and subaqueous geomorphology. There appears to be strong geologic control of the depth of closure in Broward and Miami-Dade Counties. North of Hillsboro Inlet, hydrodynamics control the geomorphology which in turn indicates the location of the depth of closure.

Intra-swash hydrodynamics and sediment flux for dambreak swash on coarse-grained beaches

Acknowledgements The research reported in this paper was conducted as part of a collaborative research project involving the Universities of Aberdeen and Nottingham in the UK, funded by the UK's Engineering and Physical Sciences Research Council (EPSRC grants EP/E011330/1 and EP/E010407/1). Riccardo Briganti acknowledges support through an EPSRC Career Acceleration Fellowship (EP/I004505/1). The paper has benefitted from the helpful comments provided by Professor Tom Baldock and an anonymous reviewer.

Observations of turbulence within the surf and swash zone of a field-scale sandy laboratory beach

Current coastal-evolution models generally lack the ability to accurately predict bed level change in shallow (<~2 m) water, which is, at least partly, due to the preclusion of the effect of surface-induced turbulence on sand suspension and transport. As a first step to remedy this situation, we investigated the vertical structure of turbulence in the surf and swash zone using measurements collected under random shoaling and plunging waves on a steep (initially 1:15) field-scale sandy laboratory beach. Seaward of the swash zone, turbulence was measured with a vertical array of three Acoustic Doppler Velocimeters (ADVs), while in the swash zone two vertically spaced acoustic doppler velocimeter profilers (Vectrino profilers) were applied. The vertical turbulence structure evolves from bottom-dominated to approximately vertically uniform with an increase in the fraction of breaking waves to ~ 50%. In the swash zone, the turbulence is predominantly bottom-induced during the backwash and shows a homogeneous turbulence profile during uprush. We further find that the instantaneous turbulence kinetic energy is phase-coupled with the short-wave orbital motion under the plunging breakers, with higher levels shortly after the reversal from offshore to onshore motion (i.e. wavefront).

Effect of sea water level rise on sandy beach profile

Study of batch profile evolution and scouring effect due to the wave and current impacts in the coastal zone has been one of the most important issues in coastal engineering research projects during the past decades .to construct the coastal protective structures such piers, breakwaters and seawalls, it is necessary to estimate the scouring depth and bed level changes in the vicinity of such structures. Furthermore, the time - dependent changes in the equilibrium profile of the surf zone can be of great importance in designing coastal structures. Because of the importance of coastal engineering study in Iran due to the existence of two important coastal area located in the north and south parts of the country, and due to the lack of classified data in this respect (particularly the effect of sea level rise on coastal morphology) in the present study, based on the available data of Bandar Anzali region, an analysis of the coastal zone behavior is made. Bed level elevations are measured and compared with the theoretical equilibrium profile. It is shown that the behavior of the coastal zone in the region is consistent with the dean (equilibrium profile . In the next stage, following extensive investigations, the bed level changes due to a rise in sea level at different locations in the surf zone are estimated. Finally based on the results obtained for profile evolution due to sea level rise, the conclusion is made for design of coastal structures located in the study area. The results obtained from the present study indicate that the sea level rise can have a significant effect on beach profile and resulting erosion in the study area. The results are graphically presented with can be used for design purposes and establishing a data base for the coastal zone in the study region. It is believed that the present work can be regarded as a contribution to the existing knowledge of coast process in the study area and referred to as a basis for the future coastal research projects.

Evolução da linha de costa da praia da Vagueira

As costas arenosas estão actualmente sujeitas a intensos processos erosivos, resultado tanto de actividades humanas como de processos naturais. Na costa portuguesa, este aspecto é bem evidente pelo recuo da linha de costa, pela diminuição da largura das praias, pela degradação dos sistemas dunares e principalmente, pela proliferação de obras fixas de protecção costeira ao longo da linha de costa. Desde a última metade do século passado que a Vagueira tem sido submetida a um intenso processo erosivo, resultando num acentuado recuo da linha de costa. A principal causa apontada para este facto, é a retenção de sedimentos por parte do molhe Norte do porto de Aveiro, impedindo-os de serem transportados pela deriva litoral. Existem também outras causas que contribuem para o acelerar deste processo, tais como a diminuição da quantidade de sedimentos fornecida pela deriva litoral e a retenção de sedimentos por parte das obras transversais de defesa costeira. Nos dias de hoje, a erosão costeira é um verdadeiro risco, e mesmo com a existência de obras fixas de protecção costeira, o avanço do mar é uma constante. Na Vagueira, a pressão urbana sobre o ecossistema costeiro, alterando as suas morfologias e interferindo no seu dinamismo, tem sido um factor interveniente no processo da erosão neste sector costeiro. Desde 1958, tem-se observado um recuo efectivo da linha de costa na Praia da Vagueira, e hoje em dia já se verifica a quase completa destruição do cordão dunar frontal e a construção de diques arenosos na tentativa de impedir a abertura de um novo canal de ligação entre o canal de Mira e o oceano e de proteger valores naturais irrecuperáveis. A construção da cartografia para cada ano em estudo permitiu a quantificação dos valores médios e absolutos do recuo da linha de costa na Vagueira desde 1958 a 2002. A monitorização da praia da Vagueira entre Outubro de 2002 e Outubro de 2003 permitiu a caracterização da praia emersa e apontar o comportamento geral da área em estudo.

Monitoring and modelling the morphodynamic evolution of a breached barrier beach system

Predicting the evolution of a coastal cell requires the identification of the key drivers of morphology. Soft coastlines are naturally dynamic but severe storm events and even human intervention can accelerate any changes that are occurring. However, when erosive events such as barrier breaching occur with no obvious contributory factors, a deeper understanding of the underlying coastal processes is required. Ideally conclusions on morphological drivers should be drawn from field data collection and remote sensing over a long period of time. Unfortunately, when the Rossbeigh barrier beach in Dingle Bay, County Kerry, began to erode rapidly in the early 2000’s, eventually leading to it breaching in 2008, no such baseline data existed. This thesis presents a study of the morphodynamic evolution of the Inner Dingle Bay coastal system. The study combines existing coastal zone analysis approaches with experimental field data collection techniques and a novel approach to long term morphodynamic modelling to predict the evolution of the barrier beach inlet system. A conceptual model describing the long term evolution of Inner Dingle Bay in 5 stages post breaching was developed. The dominant coastal processes driving the evolution of the coastal system were identified and quantified. A new methodology of long term process based numerical modelling approach to coastal evolution was developed. This method was used to predict over 20 years of coastal evolution in Inner Dingle Bay. On a broader context this thesis utilised several experimental coastal zone data collection and analysis methods such as ocean radar and grain size trend analysis. These were applied during the study and their suitability to a dynamic coastal system was assessed.

CFD Applications for Wave Energy Conversion Devices (MoonWEC) and Turbulent Fountains for Environmental Fluid Mechanics

This thesis is based on two studies that are related to floating wave energy conversion (WEC) devices and turbulent fountains. The ability of the open-source CFD software OpenFOAM® has been studied to simulate these phenomena. The CFD model has been compared with the physical experimental results. The first study presents a model of a WEC device, called MoonWEC, which is patented by the University of Bologna. The CFD model of the MoonWEC under the action of waves has been simulated using OpenFOAM and the results are promising. The reliability of the CFD model is confirmed by the laboratory experiments, conducted at the University of Bologna, for which a small-scale prototype of the MoonWEC was made from wood and brass. The second part of the thesis is related to the turbulent fountains which are formed when a heavier source fluid is injected upward into a lighter ambient fluid, or else a lighter source fluid is injected downward into a heavier ambient fluid. For this study, the first case is considered for laboratory experiments and the corresponding CFD model. The vertical releases of the source fluids into a quiescent, uniform ambient fluid, from a circular source, were studied with different densities in the laboratory experiments, conducted at the University of Parma. The CFD model has been set up for these experiments. Favourable results have been observed from the OpenFOAM simulations for the turbulent fountains as well, indicating that it can be a reliable tool for the simulation of such phenomena.

Salinity problems of organisms in coastal areas subject to the effect of engineering works /

"December 1973."

Discoloration and fungal growth on three fiber cement formulations exposed in urban, rural and coastal zones

Three formulations of fiber cement were evaluated for fungal colonization and color change after five years of exposure in aging stations located in urban (Sao Paulo), rural (Pirassununga) and coastal (Rio Grande) zones in Brazil. The lowest color change and fungal colonization were registered in Rio Grande, which has a temperate climate, as opposed to Sao Paulo and Pirassununga, which are tropical. The highest fungal colonization was recorded in Sao Paulo, one of the most air polluted cities in Brazil. Pirassununga samples had an intermediate fungal colonization, in spite of showing the highest color change with visible dark spots on the surfaces. These spots were identified as cyanobacteria, which significantly contributed to the darkening of the specimens. The fiber cement formulation, varying in proportion of organic fibers such as poly (vinyl alcohol) and cellulose, was less significant for fungal bioreceptivity than the characteristics of the exposure site. The most frequent fungal genus found in the tropical climate, in both urban and rural zones, and the main one responsible for the higher records in Sao Paulo, was Scytalidiurn sp. which was registered for the first time on this building material in Brazil. (C) 2010 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.

Coastal photograph: Aber Wrac'h, Pays du Léon, Bretagne

Aber Wrac’h, Pays du Léon, Bretagne. Aber Wrac’h, Bretagne, France, on 10 March 2004 at 13:30 (low tide) looking North (downstream) towards the Aber mouth and open sea between Lannilis and Plougerneau, Pays des Abers, Pays du Le´on. The word "Aber" is Britton (Breton) for a "fjord"-like estuary. Located on the Channel, the region "Pays des Abers" includes several deep incisions in the coastlines. The best known ‘‘Abers’’ are the Aber Wrac’h and Aber Benoit in the Pays du Léon, Finistere Nord.

Impact of Commercial Search Engines and International Databases on Engineering Teaching and Research

For the last three decades, the engineering higher education and professional environments have been completely transformed by the "electronic/digital information revolution" that has included the introduction of personal computer, the development of email and world wide web, and broadband Internet connections at home. Herein the writer compares the performances of several digital tools with traditional library resources. While new specialised search engines and open access digital repositories may fill a gap between conventional search engines and traditional references, these should be not be confused with real libraries and international scientific databases that encompass textbooks and peer-reviewed scholarly works. An absence of listing in some Internet search listings, databases and repositories is not an indication of standing. Researchers, engineers and academics should remember these key differences in assessing the quality of bibliographic "research" based solely upon Internet searches.

Two-dimensional approximation for tidal dynamics in coastal aquifers: Capillarity correction

Most previous investigations on tide-induced watertable fluctuations in coastal aquifers have been based on one-dimensional models that describe the processes in the cross-shore direction alone, assuming negligible along-shore variability. A recent study proposed a two-dimensional approximation for tide-induced watertable fluctuations that took into account coastline variations. Here, we further develop this approximation in two ways, by extending the approximation to second order and by taking into account capillary effects. Our results demonstrate that both effects can markedly influence watertable fluctuations. In particular, with the first-order approximation, the local damping rate of the tidal signal could be subject to sizable errors.

Spring-neap tide-induced beach water table fluctuations in a sloping coastal aquifer

Predictions of water table fluctuations in coastal aquifers are needed for numerous coastal and water resources engineering problems. Most previous investigations have been based on the Boussinesq equation for the case of a vertical beach. In this note an analytical solution based on shallow water expansion for the spring- neap tide- induced water table fluctuations in a coastal aquifer is presented. Unlike most previous investigations, multitidal signals are considered with a sloping coastal aquifer. The new solution is verified by comparing with field observations from Ardeer, Scotland. On the basis of the analytical approximation the influences of higher- order components on water table elevation are examined first. Then, a parametric study has been performed to investigate the effects of the amplitude ratio (lambda), frequency ratio (omega), and phases (delta(1) and delta(2)) on the tide- induced water table fluctuations in a sloping sandy beach.

Tidal influence on behaviour of a coastal aquifer adjacent to a low-relief estuary

The tidal influence on groundwater hydrodynamics, salt-water intrusion and submarine groundwater discharge from coastal/estuarine aquifers is poorly quantified for systems with a mildly sloping beach, in contrast to the case where a vertical beach face is assumed. We investigated the effect of beach slope for a coastal aquifer adjacent to a low-relief estuary, where industrial waste was emplaced over the aquifer. The waste was suspected to discharge leachate towards the estuary. Field observations at various locations showed that tidally induced groundwater head fluctuations were skewed temporally. Frequency analysis suggested that the fluctuation amplitudes decreased exponentially and the phase-tags increased Linearly for the primary tidal signals as they propagated inland. Salinisation zones were observed in the bottom part of the estuary and near the beach surface. Flow and transport processes in a cross-section perpendicular to the estuary were simulated using SEAWAT-2000, which is capable of depicting density-dependent flow and multi-species transport. The simulations showed that the modelled water table fluctuations were in good agreement with the monitored data. Further simulations were conducted to gain insight into the effects of beach slope. In particular the limiting case of a vertical beach face was considered. The simulations showed that density difference and tidal forcing drive a more complex hydrodynamic pattern for the mildly sloping beach than the vertical beach, as well as a profound asymmetry in tidally induced water table fluctuations and enhanced salt-water intrusion. The simulation results also indicated that contaminant transport from the aquifer to the estuary was affected by the tide, where for the mildly sloping beach, the tide tended to intensify the vertical mass exchange in the vicinity of the shorelines, (c) 2005 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.