A controlled experiment on yarn hairiness and fabric pilling

This study focused on the hairiness of worsted wool yarns and how it affects the pilling propensity of knitted wool fabrics. Conventional worsted ring spun yarns were compared with comparable SolospunTM yarns and yarns modified with a hairiness reducing air nozzle in the winding process (JetWind). Measurements of yarn hairiness (S3) on the Zweigle G565 hairiness meter showed a reduction in the S3 value of approximately 46% was achieved using SolospunTM ring spinning attachment and a 33% reduction was achieved using the JetWind process. Interestingly, subsequent evaluation of the pilling performance of fabrics made from the SolospunTM spun yarn and JetWind modified yarn showed a half grade and full grade improvement, respectively over a similar fabric made from conventional ring spun yarns. This result suggested that a relatively large reduction in yarn hairiness was needed to achieve a moderate improvement in fabric pilling, and that the nature of yarn hairiness was also a key factor in influencing fabric pilling propensity. It is postulated that the wrapping of surface hairs by the air vortex in the JetWind process may limit the ability of those surface fibers to form fuzz and reach the critical height required for pill formation.

Modeling the tensile strains of non-uniform fibers

The maximum strain experienced by the thinnest segment of a non-uniform fiber governs fiber breakage, yet this maximum strain can not be obtained from a normal single fiber test. Only the average strain of the whole fiber specimen can be obtained from a normal single fiber tensile test. This study has examined the relationship between the average strain, the maximum strain and the degree of fiber non-uniformity, expressed in coefficient of variation (CV) of fiber diameters along fiber length. The tensile strain of irregular fibers has been simulated using the finite element method (FEM). Using this method, average and maximum tensile strains of non-uniform fibers were calculated. The results indicate that for irregular fibers such as wool, there is an exponential relationship (i.e.ɛ _ave ɛ _max=ae ^{−b CV} ) between the ratio of average breaking strain and maximum breaking strain (ɛ _ave ɛ _max) and the along-fiber diameter variation (CV). The strain ratio decreases with the increase of the along-fiber diameter variation.

A comparative study on the felting propensity of animal fibers

The felting propensity of different animal fibers, particularly alpaca and wool, has been examined. The Aachen felting test method was employed. 1 g of each type of fiber was soaked in 50 ml of wetting solution and agitated in a dyeing machine to make felt balls. The diameter of each ball was measured in nine directions and the ball density was calculated in g/cm3; the higher the density value of the ball, the higher the feltability of the fibers. The effects of fiber diameter and fiber length on the felting propensity of these fibers were investigated. The results show that the alpaca fibers felt to a higher degree than wool fibers, and short and fine cashmere fibers have lower felting propensity than wool fibers at a similar diameter range. There is a higher tendency of felting for bleached and dyed alpaca fibers than for untreated fibers. Fiber length has a remarkable influence on the propensity of fiber felting. Cotton and nylon fibers were also tested for felting propensity to verify the mechanism responsible for the different fiber felting behavior.

Modelling yarn balloon motion in ring spinning

Air-drag on a ballooning yarn and balloon shape affect the yarn tension and ends-down (yarn breakage), which in turn affects energy consumption and yarn productivity in ring spinning. In this article, a mathematical model of yarn ballooning motion in ring spinning is established. The model can be used to generate balloon shape and predict tension in the ballooning yarn under given spinning conditions. Yarn tension was measured using a computer data acquisition system and the balloon shapes were captured using a digital camera with video capability during the experiments using cotton and wool yarns at various balloon-heights and with varying yarn-length in the balloon. The air-drag coefficients on ballooning cotton and wool yarns in ring spinning were estimated by making a “best fit” between the theoretical and experimental turning points. The theoretical results were verified with experimental data. The effects of air-drag and balloon shape on yarn tension are discussed.

Synthesis and polymerization studies of 3-(+) and (-) -menthyl carboxylate pyrroles

The synthesis of 3-(−)- and 3-(+)-menthyl carboxylate pyrrole was achieved in four high yielding steps, including the triisopropylsilyl (TIPS) protection of the pyrrole nitrogen, bromination of the 3-position, lithium halogen exchange followed by reaction with menthyl chloroformate, and finally de-protection. Chemical polymerization of both the TIPS protected, and non-protected, menthyl carboxylate pyrroles was performed and the resulting polymers exhibited conductivity ranging from 0.6 to 2.3 S/cm. Polymerization of the 3-menthyl-N-TIPS pyrrole on the surface of wool was achieved by using solution and mist polymerization methods.

Diameter variations of irregular fibers under different tensions

The cross-section area of animal fibers varies along the fiber length, and this geometrical irregularity has a major impact on the mechanical properties of those fibers. In practice fibers are often subjected to tensile stresses during processing and application, which may change fiber cross-section area. It is thus necessary to examine geometrical irregularity of fibers under tension. In this study, scoured animal fibers were subjected to different tensile loading using a Single Fiber Analyzer (SIFAN) instrument. The 3D images of the fiber specimens were first constructed, and then along-fiber diameter irregularities of the specimens were analyzed for different levels of tensile loading. The changes in effective fineness of the fiber specimens were also discussed. The results indicate that for the wool fibers examined, there is considerable discrepancy in the fiber diameter results obtained from the commonly used single scan along fiber length and that from multiple scans at different rotational angles, and that the diameter variation along fiber length increases as fiber tension increases. The results also show that when diameter reduction treatments are applied to wool by stretching, the reduced average fiber diameter is associated with an increase in both within-fiber and between-fiber diameter variations. So in terms of effective fineness, the change is much smaller than the difference between the average diameters of the parent and treated wool. These results have significant implications for improving the accuracy of fiber diameter measurement and evaluation.

An experimental study on fabric softness evaluation

Purpose – To examine a simple testing method of measuring the force to pull a fabric through a series of parallel pins to determine the fabric softness property.

Design/methodology/approach – A testing system was setup for fabric pulling force measurements and the testing parameters were experimentally determined. The specific pulling forces were compared with the fabric assurance by simple testing (FAST) parameters and subjective softness ranking. Their correlations were also statistically analyzed.

Findings – The fabric pulling force reflects the physical and surface properties of the fabrics measured by the FAST instrument and its ability to rank fabric softness appears to be close to the human hand response on fabric softness. The pulling force method can also distinguish the difference of fabrics knitted with different wool fiber contents.

Research limitations/implications – Only 21 woven and three knitted fabrics were used for this investigation. More fabrics with different structures and finishes may be evaluated before the testing method can be put in practice.

Practical implications – The testing method could be used for objective assessment of fabric softness.

Originality/value – The testing method reported in this paper is a new concept in fabric softness measurement. It can provide objective specifications for fabric softness, thus should be valuable to fabric community.

The new solo-siro spun process for worsted yarns

The aim of this paper was to explore whether the properties of worsted yarns, especially hairiness, can be improved by combining the Solospun and Sirospun processes into a single Solo-Siro spun process. Wool fibres of 19 and 21 μm in average diameter were spun into 40 tex yarns at different twist levels, using the conventional ring, Sirospun and Solo-Siro spun systems, respectively. These yarns were then tested for a range of properties, including hairiness, tenacity, elongation and evenness, for comparison purposes. The statistical analysis results indicate that the hairiness (S3 value) of Solo-Siro spun yarns was significantly less than that of both Sirospun and normal ring spun yarns. In addition, the tenacity of the Solo-Siro spun yarns was higher than that of the normal ring spun yarns, while changes in yarn breaking elongation were not statistically significant. For the 21 μm wool, it was found that the evenness of Solo-Siro spun yarns deteriorated slightly in comparison with that of Sirospun and conventional ring spun yarns.

The softness of alpaca fibres

Softness is a unique selling point for luxury fibres such as alpaca. However, there is very little objective data on the softness of animal fibres. This study first establishes that the resistance to compression (RtC) behaviour of alpaca and wool fibres is quite different, and that the RtC method can not be used to examine the softness of different animal fibres. It then reports a new method for evaluating fibre softness. This method is based on the measurement of the force required to pull a fibre bundle through a series of parallel pins. This force, reflecting the combined effect of fibre surface properties, fibre diameter and rigidity, can achieve reasonable discrimination between fibres of varying levels of softness, such as alpaca and wool. Mechanisms responsible for the superior softness of alpaca fibres are discussed also.

A morphology-related study on photodegradation of protein fibres

The wool fibre has a complex morphology, consisting of an outer layer of cuticle scales surrounding an inner cortex. These two components are hard to separate effectively except by using harsh chemical treatments, making it difficult to determine the susceptibility of the different components of the fibre to photoyellowing. An approach to this problem based on mechanical fibre modification is described. To expose the inner cortex of wool to different degrees, clean wool fibres were converted into ‘powders’ of various fineness via mechanical chopping, air-jet milling, ball milling or their combination. Four types of powdered wool (samples A, B, C and D) were produced with reducing particle size distributions and an increasing level of surface damage as observed using SEM. Sample A contained essentially intact short fibre snippets and sample D contained a large amount of exposed cortical materials. Samples B and C contained a mixture of short fibre snippets and cortical materials. Solid wool discs were then compressed from the corresponding powder samples in a polished stainless steel die to enable colour measurement and UV irradiation studies. ATR-FTIR studies on powder discs demonstrated a small shift in the amide I band from 1644 cm−1 for disc A to 1654 cm−1 for disc D due to the different structures of the wool cuticle and cortex, in agreement with previous studies. Similarly an increase in the intensity ratio of the amide I to amide II band (1540 cm−1) was observed for disc D, which contains a higher fraction of cortical material at the surface of the disc.

Discs prepared from sample D appeared the lightest in colour before exposure and had the slowest photoyellowing rate, whereas discs made from powders A–C with a higher level of cuticle coverage were more yellow before exposure and experienced a faster rate of photoyellowing. This suggests that the yellow chromophores of wool may be more prevalent in cuticle scales, and that wool photoyellowing occurs to a greater extent in the cuticle than in the cortex. Photo-induced chemiluminescence measurements showed that sample D had a higher chemiluminescence intensity after exposure to UVA radiation and a faster decay rate than samples A and B. Thus one of the roles of the wool cuticle may be to protect the cortex by quenching of free radical oxidation during exposure to the UV wavelengths present in sunlight.

One-step coating of fluoro-containing silica nanoparticles for universal generation of surface superhydrophobicity

Stable superhydrophobic surfaces with water contact angles over 170 degrees and sliding angles below 7 degrees were produced by simply coating a particulate silica sol solution of co-hydrolysed TEOS/fluorinated alkyl silane with NH₃^.H₂O on various substrates, including textile fabrics (e.g. polyester, wool and cotton), electrospun nanofibre mats, filter papers, glass slides, and silicon wafers.

A study on dehairing Australian greasy cashmere

Cashmere is a luxury fiber with high international demand. Australian cashmere fleece is shorn rather than hand combed, and the shorn fleece contains a large quantity of coarse guard hair. Normally raw cashmere fleece is scoured first, followed by dehairing to eliminate the coarse guard hair. But scouring the unwanted guard hair consumes a large quantity of water, and increases the cost of cashmere processing in Australia. Ideally, the guard hair should be removed first and then the fine cashmere fibers are scoured for further processing. This paper reports trial results on dehairing greasy rather than scoured Australian cashmere fleece, with the aim of reducing scouring cost and water consumption. The quality of cashmere fibers after the conventional dehairing process and the new greasy dehairing process has been assessed. The results indicate that fiber quality from the greasy dehairing process is better than that from conventional scouring then dehairing process.

The effect of fabric strain during pressure steaming on fabric dimensional properties

It is shown that tension applied to fabric which is then permanently set by steaming under pressure for a short time has a significant effect on fabric dimensional properties. Increasing levels of stretch applied to fabric before pressure steaming resulted in decreases in fabric hygral expansion and relaxation shrinkage and also lowered fabric shrinkage that resulted from permanent setting. The setting conditions resembled those used in conventional pressure decatising, and it is suggested that in batch decatising, precise control of the length and width of fabric as it is batched up with the wrapper before steaming under pressure could enable predictable changes in fabric dimensions, relaxation shrinkage and hygral expansion to be obtained.

Fast response photochromic textiles from hybrid silica surface coating

In this study, a hybrid silica sol-gel embedded with a photochromic dye has been applied to wool fabric to form a photochromic coating. The treated wool fabrics showed very quick photochromic response. Five different silanes have been used as the silica precursor, and the resultant coating showed slight differences in photochromic performance, fabric washing fastness, and surface hydrophilicity. However, the silica type had a considerable influence on fabric handle property. The silica matrix from the silane containing a long alkyl chain had a very little influence on the fabric handle and better photochromic performance than those from other different silane precursors.