东海悬沙浓度垂向分布规律研究

细颗粒泥沙运动及冲淤变化在深水航道整治工程中至关重要，研究细颗粒悬沙运动，悬沙浓度是一个关键。研究悬沙浓度，首先要研究悬沙浓度的水平和垂向分布，其中，垂向浓度又是海水中悬沙三维分布研究的核心。 本文以2006年8月的长江口外海域的悬沙数据资料为基础，把经典的泥沙扩散理论模型和两相流颗粒浓度分布的运动理论模型的关于垂向含沙分布的理论，作为本研究的回归模型的理论依据，通过观测获得的悬沙浊度资料对应求出观测垂向剖面浓度，采用相关分析和多元线性回归的方法，分析了长江口外海域的悬沙浓度垂向分布特点，回归出悬沙垂向浓度分布模型，为了更好的揭示水动力条件对浅海陆架区悬浮物的影响，本文还用短期资料的潮流准调和分析方法，对东海三定点分表中底三层的25小时连续海流资料进行分析，计算了三测站六个主要分潮的北、东分量潮流调和常数，由于原始记录带有扰动信息，经过预处理计算出来常规每小时一次的海流观测结果，把海流加入了悬沙垂向分布模型。并在整个研究区域验证了悬沙垂向浓度分布模型。结果表明：垂向浓度的大小与相对水深相关性良好，而水深对其的影响则表现在梯度变化方面。通过悬沙垂向浓度模型，由海水底层浓度和海流可以计算得到不同水层的悬沙浓度；有效性检验和拟合结果检验表明，该模型置信度较高，且能够较为有效的预测海水中、上层水体的悬沙浓度值。

三峡工程截流后长江口海区表层悬沙分布与河口锋带特征

本文收集了三峡截流前后长江口海区1988－2007年间十二景landsat TM遥感影像并进行了表层悬浮泥沙含量的反演，定性的描述了长江口海区洪、枯季的表层悬沙扩散外界和高浑浊水域范围的变化趋势，分析了河流泥沙输移入海形态的变化特征及表层悬沙浓度的变化特征。 通过对2002-2004年在长江口滨外区表层悬浮体取样数据的实验室处理，揭示了三峡截流后表层悬沙的分布特征；通过多船同步定点观测捕捉到了长江口河口锋带的位置并分析了河口锋带的动力特征，结果表明：长江口河口锋位于（122o10′E，30o50′N）至（122o20′E，31o00′N）一线附近，在河口锋带位置有着较为强烈的河海相互作用，流速不符合典型的对数流速曲线，河水与海水的相互消长局限于海面以下5m的表层范围，在河口锋面区悬浮泥沙为泥沙流伏在海水之上输运。长江口悬沙体浓度由于三峡蓄水作用表现为下降趋势，悬浮体扩散范围相比截流前向口门后退，长江口滨外区羽状锋带随之向口门后退。 利用二维潮流数值模型较成功地模拟出了每个季度长江河口外的流场情况及河口锋带的发育情况，模拟表明：春、夏、秋三季河口锋带较易出现，且小潮期间发育最好。冬季长江河口海洋动力较强，易于发生海水入侵，尤其是北支；夏季是长江三角洲的主要建设期，锋带作用的存在使得泥沙大部分在锋带的内外区域沉积；春秋两季是平衡期；冬季主要是冲刷的时期。

长江口水文、泥沙过程与圆桩冲刷的数值模拟

本文主要利用ECOMSED模式对长江口及邻近海域的水文、泥沙过程进行三维数值模拟，并结合实测资料分析其水动力、泥沙输运、底床冲淤等特征；然后利用欧拉二相流模型模拟小尺度条件下长江口底床上圆桩周围的水流和泥沙冲刷、输运规律。 通过资料分析和ECOMSED数值模拟结果比较，我们得出：长江口口门内为非正规半日潮流区，潮流运动形式多为往复流，落潮流占优。落潮流速大于涨潮流速，流速垂向分布从表层到底层递减。悬沙浓度与流速关系密切，一般来说，流速越大，悬沙浓度越高；一个潮周期过程中会出现两次、三次或四次泥沙再悬浮，分别是涨急、落急、涨转落、落转涨时刻；盐水楔结构对粘性与非粘性悬沙浓度的分布起决定性作用，转流时泥沙再悬浮主要是由于这时会出现盐水楔，并形成垂向环流，使床面大量未被固结的泥沙再悬浮，形成峰值。悬浮泥沙垂向分布可分为垂线型，斜线型，抛物线型和L型。流场和底床冲淤变化与水深关系密切：深水区，流速较大，底床冲淤变化也较大。其中，受径流影响区表现为淤积，受潮流影响区表现为冲刷；浅水区基本表现为淤积。 从模式运行结果和实测资料比较可以看出，该模型可以较好的模拟长江口水流、悬浮泥沙分布与变化；能够再现在径流入海口处，盐水楔结构及其诱生的垂向环流从形成到发展，又到消失的完整过程；也能够展示底床的冲淤变化。对于我们模拟长江口背景流场，了解该区域内水动力变化、悬浮泥沙输运、底床冲淤等有重要意义。 在欧拉二相流模型对长江口底床上圆桩周围的水流和局部冲刷数值模拟过程中，我们不仅考虑水流和泥沙之间的作用，还引入泥沙颗粒之间的相互影响。模拟结果较合理的展示了圆桩周围的流场类型和底床冲刷变化：在圆桩前方，流速减小并形成垂向涡旋，从而产生局部冲刷；在圆桩两侧，水流加速，挟带上游泥沙向下输送，并在内侧堆积；而在圆桩后面，存在流速分离区。在该分离区内流速很小，并且当流速较大时，会产生回流，形成两个对称的漩涡。流速越大，圆桩前由垂向涡旋引起的局部冲刷就越明显；而当底床泥沙粒径变小时，泥沙临界起动流速变小，底床也更容易被冲刷。悬浮泥沙浓度分布受流场的影响，并且当粒径小而流速大时，能悬浮到更高的深度。

A method for semi-automated objective quantification of linear bedforms from multi-scale Digital Elevation Models

The increasing availability of large, detailed digital representations of the Earth’s surface demands the application of objective and quantitative analyses. Given recent advances in the understanding of the mechanisms of formation of linear bedform features from a range of environments, objective measurement of their wavelength, orientation, crest and trough positions, height and asymmetry is highly desirable. These parameters are also of use when determining observation-based parameters for use in many applications such as numerical modelling, surface classification and sediment transport pathway analysis. Here, we (i) adapt and extend extant techniques to provide a suite of semi-automatic tools which calculate crest orientation, wavelength, height, asymmetry direction and asymmetry ratios of bedforms, and then (ii) undertake sensitivity tests on synthetic data, increasingly complex seabeds and a very large-scale (39 000km2) aeolian dune system. The automated results are compared with traditional, manually derived,measurements at each stage. This new approach successfully analyses different types of topographic data (from aeolian and marine environments) from a range of sources, with tens of millions of data points being processed in a semi-automated and objective manner within minutes rather than hours or days. The results from these analyses show there is significant variability in all measurable parameters in what might otherwise be considered uniform bedform fields. For example, the dunes of the Rub’ al Khali on the Arabian peninsula are shown to exhibit deviations in dimensions from global trends. Morphological and dune asymmetry analysis of the Rub’ al Khali suggests parts of the sand sea may be adjusting to a changed wind regime from that during their formation 100 to 10 ka BP.

PCB congener dynamics in a heavily industrialized river catchment

PCB congener concentrations in the water column of a highly industrialized river catchment, the Aire/Calder, in N.E. England were determined weekly on a routine basis, and 2 hourly through selected high flow (flood) events. Bed, suspended and floodplain sediment PCB congener concentrations were also determined along transects of the rivers investigated. Weekly monitoring revealed that the sum of 11 quantified (Sigma11) PCBs rose in concentration by two orders of magnitude during late summer compared to their winter minimum values. This rise was concurrent with sustained periods of low flow. SigmaPCB concentrations were rapidly diluted during high flow (flood) events. Suspended sediment was, on average, 13 times more contaminated with PCBs than bed sediment, with means of 4.0 and 53.8 ng/g, respectively, while floodplain samples had an intermediate concentration of 29.8 ng/g. Principle components analysis (PCA) of congener profiles showed that all three sediment types were similar, but that congener profiles differed considerably between sediment and whole-water samples. There was no change in the percentage contribution of individual PCB congeners apparent from weekly whole-water monitoring. However, the congener pattern in whole-waters changed systematically during high flow events. PCA showed that whole-water samples collected during high flow events had progressively more sediment characteristics, and then returned to whole-water characteristics on cessation of the event. The PCA evidence, dilution of PCB concentrations during events, and suspended sediments more contaminated than bed sediments, indicate that the major sources of PCBs in this catchment are current inputs from sewage treatment works, rather than remobilization of bed sediments.

The chronostratigraphy of the Haua Fteah cave (Cyrenaica, northeast Libya)

The 1950s excavations by Charles McBurney in the Haua Fteah, a large karstic cave on the coast of northeast Libya, revealed a deep sequence of human occupation. Most subsequent research on North African prehistory refers to his discoveries and interpretations, but the chronology of its archaeological and geological sequences has been based on very early age determinations. This paper reports on the initial results of a comprehensive multi-method dating program undertaken as part of new work at the site, involving radiocarbon dating of charcoal, land snails and marine shell, cryptotephra investigations, optically stimulated luminescence (OSL) dating of sediments, and electron spin resonance (ESR) dating of tooth enamel. The dating samples were collected from the newly exposed and cleaned faces of the upper 7.5m of the ~14.0m-deep McBurney trench, which contain six of the seven major cultural phases that he identified. Despite problems of sediment transport and reworking, using a Bayesian statistical model the new dating program establishes a robust framework for the five major lithostratigraphic units identified in the stratigraphic succession, and for the major cultural units. The age of two anatomically modern human mandibles found by McBurney in Layer XXXIII near the base of his Levalloiso-Mousterian phase can now be estimated to between 73 and 65ka (thousands of years ago) at the 95.4% confidence level, within Marine Isotope Stage (MIS) 4. McBurney's Layer XXV, associated with Upper Palaeolithic Dabban blade industries, has a clear stratigraphic relationship with Campanian Ignimbrite tephra. Microlithic Oranian technologies developed following the climax of the Last Glacial Maximum and the more microlithic Capsian in the Younger Dryas. Neolithic pottery and perhaps domestic livestock were used in the cave from the mid Holocene but there is no certain evidence for plant cultivation until the Graeco-Roman period. © 2013 Elsevier Ltd.

Appropriate complexity for the prediction of coastal and estuarine geomorphic behaviour at decadal to centennial scales

Coastal and estuarine landforms provide a physical template that not only accommodates diverse ecosystem functions and human activities, but also mediates flood and erosion risks that are expected to increase with climate change. In this paper, we explore some of the issues associated with the conceptualisation and modelling of coastal morphological change at time and space scales relevant to managers and policy makers. Firstly, we revisit the question of how to define the most appropriate scales at which to seek quantitative predictions of landform change within an age defined by human interference with natural sediment systems and by the prospect of significant changes in climate and ocean forcing. Secondly, we consider the theoretical bases and conceptual frameworks for determining which processes are most important at a given scale of interest and the related problem of how to translate this understanding into models that are computationally feasible, retain a sound physical basis and demonstrate useful predictive skill. In particular, we explore the limitations of a primary scale approach and the extent to which these can be resolved with reference to the concept of the coastal tract and application of systems theory. Thirdly, we consider the importance of different styles of landform change and the need to resolve not only incremental evolution of morphology but also changes in the qualitative dynamics of a system and/or its gross morphological configuration. The extreme complexity and spatially distributed nature of landform systems means that quantitative prediction of future changes must necessarily be approached through mechanistic modelling of some form or another. Geomorphology has increasingly embraced so-called ‘reduced complexity’ models as a means of moving from an essentially reductionist focus on the mechanics of sediment transport towards a more synthesist view of landform evolution. However, there is little consensus on exactly what constitutes a reduced complexity model and the term itself is both misleading and, arguably, unhelpful. Accordingly, we synthesise a set of requirements for what might be termed ‘appropriate complexity modelling’ of quantitative coastal morphological change at scales commensurate with contemporary management and policy-making requirements: 1) The system being studied must be bounded with reference to the time and space scales at which behaviours of interest emerge and/or scientific or management problems arise; 2) model complexity and comprehensiveness must be appropriate to the problem at hand; 3) modellers should seek a priori insights into what kind of behaviours are likely to be evident at the scale of interest and the extent to which the behavioural validity of a model may be constrained by its underlying assumptions and its comprehensiveness; 4) informed by qualitative insights into likely dynamic behaviour, models should then be formulated with a view to resolving critical state changes; and 5) meso-scale modelling of coastal morphological change should reflect critically on the role of modelling and its relation to the observable world.

Wave Fields around Wave Energy Converter Arrays

Wave energy converters, by their nature, extract large amounts of energy
from incident waves. If the industry is to progress such that wave energy
becomes a significant provider of power in the future, large wave farms will
be required. Presently, consenting for these sites is a long and problematic
process, mainly due to a lack of knowledge of the potential environmental
impacts. Accurate numerical modelling of the effect of wave energy extraction
on the wave field and subsequent evaluation of changes to coastal
processes is therefore required. Modelling the wave field impact is also
necessary to allow optimum wave farm configurations to be determined.
This thesis addresses the need for more accurate representation of wave
energy converters in numerical models so that the effect on the wave field,
and subsequently the coastal processes, may be evaluated. Using a hybrid
of physical and numerical modelling (MIKE21 BW and SW models) the
effect of energy extraction and operation of a WEC array on the local wave
climate has been determined.
The main outcomes of the thesis are: an improved wave basin facility, in
terms of wave climate homogeneity, reducing the standard deviation of wave
amplitude by up to 50%; experimental measurement of the wave field around
WEC arrays, showing that radiated waves account for a significant proportion
of the wave disturbance; a new representation method of WECs for use
with standard numerical modelling tools, validated against experimental
results.
The methodology and procedures developed here allow subsequent evaluation
of changes to coastal processes and sediment transport due to WEC
arrays.

Contribution to the study of the Ria de Aveiro inlet morphodynamics

Over the years it was observed at the Ria de Aveiro lagoon inlet, near the head of the north breakwater, a depth increase that might threaten the stability of this structure. A trend of accretion in the navigation channel of this lagoon is observed, endangering the navigation in this region. In order to understand the origin of these and other trends observed, the knowledge of the sediment transport in the study area is imperative. The main aim of this work is understanding the dominant physical processes in the sediment transport of sediment at the Ria de Aveiro lagoon inlet and adjacent area, improving knowledge of this region morphodynamics. The methodology followed in this study consisted in the analyzes of the topohydrographic surveys performed by the Administration of the Aveiro Harbor, and in the numerical simulations results performed with the morphodynamic modeling system MORSYS2D. The analysis of the surveys was performed by studying the temporal evolution of the bathymetry. The numerical analysis was based on the implementation of the model at the study area, sensitivity analysis of the formulations used to compute the sediment transport to the variation of input parameters (e.g. depth, sediment size, tidal currents) and analysis of the sediment uxes and bathymetric changes predicted. The simulations considered as sediment transport forcing the tidal currents only and the coupled forcing of tides and waves. Considering the wave e ect as sediment transport forcing, both monochromatic waves and a wave regime were simulated. The results revealed that the observed residual sediment transport patterns are generated due to the channel con guration. Inside the lagoon the uxes are mainly induced by the tidal currents action, restricting the action of waves to the inlet and adjacent coast. In the navigation channel the residual sediment uxes predicted are directed o - shore with values between 7 and 40 m3=day generating accretions of approximately 10 m3=day for the shallower region and 35 m3=day for the region between the tidal gauge and the tri^angulo das mar es. At the inlet, the residual uxes are approximately 30 m3=day inducing trends of erosion of approximately 20 m3=day. At the North side of the nearshore accretion is predicted, while at the South side is predicted erosion, at the rates of 250 and 1500 m3=day, respectively. It was also concluded that the waves with higher contribution to the residual sediment uxes are those with heights between 4 and 5 m. However, the storm waves with heights bigger than 5 m, despite their 10% of frequency of occurrence are responsible for 25% of the observed sediment transport.

Hydrological modelling of Maranhão and Pracana Basins, a first approach

Modelling the hydrology of hydrographic basins has shown itself as a useful tool in environment management. The hydrological models can be used for multiple purposes: estimate runoff from sequences of rainfall, access stream water quality, quantify the diffuse pollution that reaches water masses such as estuaries, rivers and lakes, etc. This study has as final objective to simulate and analyse the flow, sediment transport and water quality as a function of landuse and soil type in the basins of Maranhão and Pracana. The modelling system used is SWAT, Soil Water Assessment Tool. In this first phase of the study the hydrodynamic calibration of the model was performed using measurements of average daily flows in five stations. The model compares well with the measurements; the annual average flows are similar and the majority of the measured flow peaks coincide with the model peaks.

Development of an integrated system for coastal waters

This paper describes some of the needs and problems associated to assessment of coastal and estuarine problems (sediment transport and eutrophication). The development of an integrated system including EO data, local measurements with special emphasis on modeling tools, is presented as a solution for studying and helping decision making on the subject. Two pilot sites for the implementation and the present development status of the integrated system are depicted. This framework was already presented in a recent AO specific for Portugal, which is still under evaluation.

Analyzing drifter designs and data gathering methods in complex estuarine environments

Senior thesis written for Oceanography 445

Caracterização hidráulica, hidrológica e do transporte sólido das principais linhas de água (ribeiras) do concelho de Câmara de Lobos: ilha da Madeira

Trabalho Final de Mestrado para obtenção do grau de Mestre em Engenharia Civil na Área de Especialização de Hidráulica

Geomorphic dam-break flows. Part I: conceptual model

Proceedings of the Institution of Civil Engineers - Water Management 163 Issue WM6

Sedimentos marinos superficiales en la bahía del Callao, Perú. 1997

Durante El Niño 1997, se estudiaron los sedimentos marinos superficiales de la bahía del Callao (11°50’S a 12°06’S), en 68 estaciones de muestreo situadas al interior de la bahía, incluyendo Ventanilla. Se situaron 35 estaciones complementarias entre las desembocaduras de los ríos Rímac y Chillón donde se concentran las descargas de desechos industriales, urbanos y de actividad portuaria. Se realizaron tres transectos, frente a: playa Ventanilla, al colector Comas y a Chucuito-La Punta. Frente a la playa Márquez se encuentra textura areno arcillosa y hacia el norte predomina el fango; frente a Oquendo las texturas son fango y arena arcillosa. Sedimentos de grano fino, con textura limo arcillosa y arcillo limosa existen en el fondo marino de zonas más profundas y alejadas de la costa; pero también están cerca de la costa, al sur y suroeste de la zona de operaciones portuarias, frente a Chucuito y La Punta. Texturas de arena se registraron al norte del río Chillón (La Pampilla y Ventanilla), en los alrededores del banco Camotal y frente a La Punta. En las áreas más profundas y abrigadas de la bahía, los sedimentos con granulometría muy fina presentan valores negativos de asimetría, característicos de ambientes de sedimentación. En sectores donde existen sedimentos de grano más grueso ocurren procesos de transporte (tipo y forma de ondulaciones) y erosión, apreciables en imágenes del fondo, y en el análisis de parámetros estadísticos. Los altos contenidos de materia orgánica se encuentran asociados a sedimentos de grano fino en ambientes de sedimentación principalmente, está condicionado por la tasa de aporte y origen (antrópico, marino o continental) y por las condiciones de escaso oxígeno que favorecen su preservación. Los más bajos contenidos orgánicos frente a la zona costera de Ventanilla, están asociadas a sedimentos con predominancia de fracciones de arena y origen terrígeno y mayor oxigenación.