La moda, ossia la filosofia del decimottavo secolo

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Ḥumash modaʻ le-vinah /

V. 5 contains list of subscribers.

Modaʻ li-vene binah.

Mode of access: Internet.

Exploring the potential of xenobiotic-metabolising enzymes as biocatalysts: Evolving designer catalysts from polyfunctional cytochrome P450 enzymes

1. Biological catalysts have the advantage of being able to catalyse chemical reactions with an often exquisite degree of regio- and stereospecificity in contrast with traditional methods of organic synthesis. 2. The cytochrome P450 enzymes involved in human drug metabolism are ideal starting materials for the development of designer biocatalysts by virtue of their catalytic versatility and extreme substrate diversity. Applications can be envisaged in fine chemical synthesis, such as in the pharmaceutical industry and bioremediation. 3. A variety of techniques of enzyme engineering are currently being applied to P450 enzymes to explore their catalytic potential. Although most studies to date have been performed with bacterial P450s, reports are now emerging of work with mammalian forms of the enzymes. 4. The present minireview will explore the rationale and general techniques for redesigning P450s, review the results obtained to date with xenobiotic-metabolising forms and discuss strategies to overcome some of the logistic problems limiting the full exploitation of these enzymes as industrial-scale biocatalysts.

Designer catalysts for biodiesel synthesis

The combination of dwindling oil reserves and growing concerns over carbon dioxide emissions and associated climate change is driving the urgent development of clean, sustainable energy supplies. Biodiesel is a non-toxic and biodegradable fuel, with the potential for closed CO2 cycles and thus vastly reduced carbon footprints compared with petroleum. However, current manufacturing routes employing soluble catalysts are very energy inefficient, with their removal necessitating an energy intensive separation to purify biodiesel, which in turn produces copious amounts of contaminated aqueous waste. The introduction of non-food based feedstocks and technical advances in heterogeneous catalyst and reactor design are required to ensure that biodiesel remains a key player in the renewable energy sector for the 21st century. Here we report on the development of tuneable solid acid and bases for biodiesel synthesis, which offer several process advantages by eliminating the quenching step and allowing operation in a continuous reactor. Significant progress has been made towards developing tuneable solid base catalysts for biodiesel synthesis, including Li/CaO [1], Mg-Al hydrotalcites [2] and calcined dolomite [3] which exhibit excellent activity for triglyceride transesterification. However, the effects of solid base strength on catalytic activity in biodiesel synthesis remains poorly understood, hampering material optimisation and commercial exploitation. To improve our understanding of factors influencing solid base catalysts for biodiesel synthesis, we have applied a simple spectroscopic method for the quantitative determination of surface basicity which is independent of adsorption probes. Such measurements reveal how the morphology and basicity of MgO nanocrystals correlate with their biodiesel synthesis activity [4]. While diverse solid acids and bases have been investigated for TAG transesterification, the micro and mesoporous nature of catalyst systems investigated to date are not optimal for the diffusion of bulky and viscous C16-C18 TAGs typical of plant oils. The final part of this presentation will address the benefits of designing porous networks comprising interconnected hierarchical macroporous and mesoporous channels (Figure 1) to enhance mass-transport properties of viscous plant oils during biodiesel synthesis [5]. References: [1] R.S. Watkins, A.F. Lee, K. Wilson, Green Chem., 2004, 6, 335. [2]D.G. Cantrell, L.J. Gillie, A.F. Lee and K. Wilson, Appl. Catal. A, 2005, 287,183. [3] C. Hardacre, A.F. Lee, J.M. Montero, L. Shellard, K.Wilson, Green Chem., 2008, 10, 654. [4] J.M. Montero, P.L. Gai, K. Wilson, A.F. Lee, Green Chem., 2009, 11, 265. [5] J. Dhainaut, J.-P. Dacquin, A.F. Lee, K. Wilson, Green Chem., 2010, 12, 296.

Comparing novice designer performance using a rule -based approach versus a pattern -based approach in conceptual data modeling tasks

Conceptual database design is an unusually difficult and error-prone task for novice designers. This study examined how two training approaches---rule-based and pattern-based---might improve performance on database design tasks. A rule-based approach prescribes a sequence of rules for modeling conceptual constructs, and the action to be taken at various stages while developing a conceptual model. A pattern-based approach presents data modeling structures that occur frequently in practice, and prescribes guidelines on how to recognize and use these structures. This study describes the conceptual framework, experimental design, and results of a laboratory experiment that employed novice designers to compare the effectiveness of the two training approaches (between-subjects) at three levels of task complexity (within subjects). Results indicate an interaction effect between treatment and task complexity. The rule-based approach was significantly better in the low-complexity and the high-complexity cases; there was no statistical difference in the medium-complexity case. Designer performance fell significantly as complexity increased. Overall, though the rule-based approach was not significantly superior to the pattern-based approach in all instances, it out-performed the pattern-based approach at two out of three complexity levels. The primary contributions of the study are (1) the operationalization of the complexity construct to a degree not addressed in previous studies; (2) the development of a pattern-based instructional approach to database design; and (3) the finding that the effectiveness of a particular training approach may depend on the complexity of the task.

Comprehensive forensic toxicological analysis of designer drugs

New designer drugs are constantly emerging onto the illicit drug market and it is often difficult to validate and maintaincomprehensive analytical methods for accurate detection of these compounds. Generally, toxicology laboratories utilize a screening method, such as immunoassay, for the presumptive identification of drugs of abuse. When a positive result occurs, confirmatory methods, such as gas chromatography (GC) or liquid chromatography (LC) coupled with mass spectrometry (MS), are required for more sensitive and specific analyses. In recent years, the need to study the activities of these compounds in screening assays as well as to develop confirmatory techniques to detect them in biological specimens has been recognized. Severe intoxications and fatalities have been encountered with emerging designer drugs, presenting analytical challenges for detection and identification of such novel compounds. The first major task of this research was to evaluate the performance of commercially available immunoassays to determine if designer drugs were cross-reactive. The second major task was to develop and validate a confirmatory method, using LC-MS, to identify and quantify these designer drugs in biological specimens.^ Cross-reactivity towards the cathinone derivatives was found to be minimal. Several other phenethylamines demonstrated cross-reactivity at low concentrations, but results were consistent with those published by the assay manufacturer or as reported in the literature. Current immunoassay-based screening methods may not be ideal for presumptively identifying most designer drugs, including the "bath salts." For this reason, an LC-MS based confirmatory method was developed for 32 compounds, including eight cathinone derivatives, with limits of quantification in the range of 1-10 ng/mL. The method was fully validated for selectivity, matrix effects, stability, recovery, precision, and accuracy. In order to compare the screening and confirmatory techniques, several human specimens were analyzed to demonstrate the importance of using a specific analytical method, such as LC-MS, to detect designer drugs in serum as immunoassays lack cross-reactivity with the novel compounds. Overall, minimal cross-reactivity was observed, highlighting the conclusion that these presumptive screens cannot detect many of the designer drugs and that a confirmatory technique, such as the LC-MS, is required for the comprehensive forensic toxicological analysis of designer drugs.^

Entre as tramas da indústria da moda: argumentos sobre o trabalho escravo contemporâneo na sociedade de consumo

Even after its abolition, the slave labor still exists in the world. In a new socio-historic context, the shackles and slave quarters have been left behind, nowadays the workers are tempted, subjected to degrading conditions and have their rights retrenched. The contemporary slave labor has been emerging as subject of research in the Organizational Studies since the early 2000s, calling attention to many gaps to be filled about the way organizations all around the world use this practice. Contemporary slave labor is found in many and various economic activities, since coal to textile industries or even stores. In this dissertation, we have incorporated the consumption dimension to the field of Organizational Studies, discussing the modern slavery, aiming to understand the consumers’ point of view about this topic, that is, we have researched the consumers’ interpretations concerning the slave labor in the fashion industry. Our objective is to analyze consumer’s argumentative construction in the decision of buying or not products made by industries from the fashion field that were denounced because of slave labor usage. We have adopted fashion industry as research focus because it obscures the reflection of the consumers that feel like in a new world while shopping, a world of beauty and fantasy, seeking their own satisfaction. Furthermore, the Brazilian fashion industry is one of the biggest of the world (ABIT, 2015), with a huge symbolic strength in the country. We have realized a qualitative research using semi-structured interviews with 35 consumers to identify their arguments according to the criteria defined by Liakopoulos (2002): data, propositions, guarantees, supports and refutations. The data are the statements used by the interviewees categorically, that is, those which are clear in the interviews. The propositions are what qualifies and justifies the used data. The guarantees are related to the nature of the data, they are what gives the sense to the data and are introduced implicitly in the interviewee speech. The supports are universal premises introduced in order to legitimate the arguments. The refutations, when present, counter the used arguments. As results, we’ve found consumers who developed arguments pro-consumption and anti-consumption and who have defended ideas about the responsibility of different actors for the existence of this practice and for the fight against it. From these two categories: (1) pro-consumption – consume despite the complaints and (2) anti-consumption – don’t consume, because of the accusations; we have identified the following argumentative lines: skepticism, faultfinding and moral engagement. By the end, we have presented the interviewees’ argumentative construction and the obtained results.

A Influência do endosso de blogueiras no comportamento das consumidoras de moda no Brasil

The study about the celebrity endorsement has relevance for both the academia and businesses seeking to retain and attract customers through marketing communications. However, most researches conducted analyzes celebrities from the artistic or sports, and study the endorsement in print media or on TV. Few studies analyze the endorsement of influencers in social media. Observing this gap, the aim of this study is to verify if the endorsement of fashion bloggers influence on purchase intention of Brazilian consumers. In addition, other factors were analyzed for better understanding of the fashion consumer behavior: evaluation of the product, brand awareness, brand loyalty, product quality, involvement with fashion, and credibility of the endorser. Therefore, it held two studies. The first consisted of a qualitative exploratory research, which used focus groups to identify and understand how social media affect the behavior of consumers of fashion products. Among the main results of this study, we highlight the Instagram appointed unanimously as the main social media used by respondents for information on fashion, and the mention of blogger Thássia Naves as the main source of fashion reference in social media. In the second study was undertaken an experiment in which half of the sample had access to the image of a dress used by the blogger Thássia Naves on her Instagram, while the other half had access to dress image disclosed at the online store website of the product brand. The number of valid responses considered for the study was 465. To test the hypotheses of the study, we applied the t test for independent samples and ANOVA test for more than two groups. The survey results supported 5 of 8 hypotheses proposed. which were: The endorsement of the fashion blogger has a positive effect on purchase intention of the endorsed product (H1); The endorsement of the fashion blogger has a positive effect on the evaluation of the endorsed product (H2); The credibility of the fashion blogger has a positive effect on purchase intention of the endorsed product (H3); The credibility of the fashion blogger has a positive effect on the evaluation of the endorsed product (H4); and the credibility of the fashion blogger has a positive effect on brand awareness (H5). The other hypotheses have been disproved: The credibility of the fashion blogger has a positive effect on brand loyalty (H6); The credibility of the fashion blogger has a positive effect on the perception of quality (H7); and the credibility of the fashion blogger has a positive effect on involvement with fashion (H8).Within the scope of further analysis, it was found that involvement with fashion positively interfere in purchase intent, the evaluation of the product, brand awareness, loyalty to the brand, the pursuit of product quality and credibility of the endorser. Moreover, it was found that the frequency of access to Instagram for fashion information positively affects the purchase intention, in evaluating the product, the brand awareness in brand loyalty, involvement with fashion, and credibility endorser.

O papel crítico da gestão cultural no seio do dispositivo da moda e da indústria do têxtil e do vestuário : O caso de Portugal

A Moda será talvez o dispositivo que melhor consegue transportar o que é a Modernidade, ilustrando o imaginário humano sempre em devir. Em paralelo com a perspetiva humanística, na sua abordagem, têm de se equacionar questões de técnica e, forçosamente, todo um ecossistema cultural. O sistema atual da Moda e do vestuário culmina visivelmente nos progressos atuais da tecnologia e tensões presentes nas principais áreas científicas, de que é expressão o fenómeno da obsolescência. É neste campo operativo, sistema complexo, maduro nos seus equilíbrios e paradigmas, mas também, contradições e colapsos, que se levantam problemas particulares e transversais a outros setores. A UNESCO e outras influentes instituições internacionais preconizam a sustentabilidade e assumem o seu compromisso com o desenvolvimento sustentável. Neste enquadramento, enfrentam-se questões de nível global como a sustentabilidade e a(s) crise(s) dos modelos económicos prevalecentes no Ocidente contemporâneo. Relativamente às prioridades definidas na planificação de projetos no setor da Moda, do têxtil e do vestuário, quando nos circunscrevemos ao território português, urgia realizar-se uma investigação com o objetivo de entender as relações entre as entidades, atores e instituições ativas neste campo. A intenção é aferir possibilidades de Gestão Cultural, partindo de três questões charneiras. Qual o entendimento da sustentabilidade por parte desses intervenientes? Que pontos fracos e oportunidades caracterizam o sistema? Como é que toda esta problematologia se comporta enquanto rede? Em conformidade com o desígnio supra, a metodologia usada para resolver os objetivos consistiu numa conjugação de métodos e de técnicas que atingem atores representativos, graças a um acesso privilegiado ao setor. Concretizou-se uma análise qualitativa através da técnica da entrevista livre acompanhada de guião premeditando desvios, acrescida de duas discussões com grupos focais, dois estágios de observação participativa, a participação em duas conferências e ainda em duas ações de formação. Paralelamente trabalhou-se na divulgação de um inquérito online visando a recolha de dados quantitativos que ajudaram a validar as interpretações da análise qualitativa. O corpus foi dividido em três grupos: o primeiro para a esfera da decisão, o segundo relativo à dos Tecnólogos e o terceiro para a dos Criativos, todos representados num estudo comparativo através de gráficos dimensionais Radar. Observou-se que os atores dos três grupos estão geralmente isolados na sua especificidade. Numa síntese possível, os Criativos aspiram a mais poder, os Engenheiros reconhecem o seu défice de originalidade e os Decisores revelam-se afastados do quotidiano social. Para a Gestão Cultural, abordagem teórico-prático relativamente recente no panorama atual, é crucial reconhecer-se territórios para a sua ação. Assim, nesta investigação, individualizaram-se terrenos concretos onde a Gestão Cultural poderá desenvolver a sua interpretação numa visão pluralista e holística – um ecumenismo cultural – necessária e importante para o ativar ou reativar compromissos no seio do dispositivo da Moda, isto é, novos modos de fazeres e de seres desta dinâmica social. O presente estudo diz respeito a um setor específico e ao caso português, podendo, no entanto, a metodologia desta investigação ser adaptada a qualquer outro âmbito cultural. Aspira-se, em última análise, a uma reversão de comportamentos consuetudinários num setor essencial da economia portuguesa: parar de fazer para melhor projetar e gerir processos, equipamentos e recursos.