Editorial

Welcome to the third issue of Clothing Cultures. We are honoured to have served as the guest editors for this issue. The authors in this issue explore three intersecting themes in using various methods: identity, cross-cultural encounters and everyday practices related to designing, branding and wearing clothing. These themes are at the core of fashion and dress: as an everyday individual and social project, and as a system in which people and objects (clothing) globally circulate. The performance of identity (Goffman 1979; Butler 1990), social practices and the movement of people and commodities (Appadurai 1986, 1996) create and transfer cultural meanings.

Clothing Cultures, Volume 3, Issue 3

Tiziana Ferrero-Regis, guest editor of Vol. 1, issue 3, of Intellect journal Clothing Cultures. "Welcome to the third issue of Clothing Cultures. We are honoured to have served as the guest editors for this issue. The authors in this issue explore three intersecting themes in using various methods: identity, cross-cultural encounters and everyday practices related to designing, branding and wearing clothing. These themes are at the core of fashion and dress: as an everyday individual and social project, and as a system in which people and objects (clothing) globally circulate. The performance of identity (Goffman 1979; Butler 1990), social practices and the movement of people and commodities (Appadurai 1986, 1996) create and transfer cultural meanings..."

Editorial introduction

The Editorial team of the Postcolonial Directions in Education (PDE) online journal welcomes this special issue, Vol. 3 No. 1, guest-edited by Dr. Nisha Thapliyal of the University of Newcastle, Australia. The special issue explores a crucial concern for education: the relationship between learning, knowledge and collective action for social transformation. It is all the more important for scholars of education to research and write about this, given today’s context of a sustained neo-liberal current in which individualism and privatisation are being promoted above notions of social responsibility for the collective good.

Transdisciplinary approaches to urban computing

The research field of urban computing – defined as “the integration of computing, sensing, and actuation technologies into everyday urban settings and lifestyles” – considers the design and use of ubiquitous computing technology in public and shared urban environments. Its impact on cities, buildings, and spaces evokes innumerable kinds of change. Embedded into our everyday lived environments, urban computing technologies have the potential to alter the meaning of physical space, and affect the activities performed in those spaces. This paper starts a multi-themed discussion of various aspects that make up the, at times, messy and certainly transdisciplinary field of urban computing and urban informatics.

Learning experiences for the transition to professional work

A better educated workforce contributes to a more informed and tolerant society with higher economic output, and this is also associated with higher levels of personal health, interpersonal trust and civic and social engagement. Against this backdrop, the role of universities has expanded, as university learning has moved beyond providing an education to preparing students for leadership positions within society. This article examines the effectiveness of final-year learning experiences from the perception of recent graduates. The aim is to improve undergraduate curriculum to facilitate the transition to professional employment. An online quantitative and qualitative survey instrument was developed to investigate graduates’ perceptions of their different learning experiences and assessment types in their senior year. Four hundred and twelve alumni from five universities completed the survey. Our results indicate that graduates value case studies, group work and oral presentations, and that graduates rate lectures and guest lectures from practitioners as the least important in their transition to work. The results validate the use of graduate capability frameworks and mapping the development of the skills over the curriculum. These results are useful for curriculum designers to assist with designing programmes on the transition to professional work.

New insights into the molecular structure of kaolinite–methanol intercalation complexes

A series of kaolinite–methanol complexes with different basal spacings were synthesized using guest displacement reactions of the intercalation precursors kaolinite–N-methyformamide (Kaol–NMF), kaolinite–urea (Kaol–U), or kaolinite–dimethylsulfoxide (Kaol–DMSO), with methanol (Me). The interaction of methanol with kaolinite was examined using X-ray diffraction (XRD), infrared spectroscopy (IR), and nuclear magnetic resonance (NMR). Kaolinite (Kaol) initially intercalated with N-methyformamide (NMF), urea (U), or dimethylsulfoxide (DMSO) before subsequent reaction with Me formed final kaolinite–methanol (Kaol–Me) complexes characterized by basal spacing ranging between 8.6 Å and 9.6 Å, depending on the pre-intercalated reagent. Based on a comparative analysis of the three Kaol–Me displacement intercalation complexes, three types of Me intercalation products were suggested to have been present in the interlayer space of Kaol: (1) molecules grafted onto a kaolinite octahedral sheet in the form of a methoxy group (Al-O-C bond); (2) mobile Me and/or water molecules kept in the interlayer space via hydrogen bonds that could be partially removed during drying; and (3) a mixture of types 1 and 2, with the methoxy group (Al-O-C bond) grafted onto the Kaol sheet and mobile Me and/or water molecules coexisted in the system after the displacement reaction by Me. Various structural models that reflected four possible complexes of Kaol–Me were constructed for use in a complimentary computational study. Results from the calculation of the methanol kaolinite interaction indicate that the hydroxyl oxygen atom of methanol plays the dominant role in the stabilization and localization of the molecule intercalated in the interlayer space, and that water existing in the intercalated Kaol layer is inevitable.

Rio+ 20: The future we want or greenwash?

The Rio+20 United Nations Conference on Sustainable Development featured a fractious debate over intellectual property and the environment. Not only was there heated debate about patent law, technology transfer, and sustainable development, there was also a debate about sustainable public procurement, eco-labelling, accountable advertising, and greenwashing.

The fight for fair use in Australia: Copyright law in an age of cloud computing

Fair Use Week has celebrated the evolution and development of the defence of fair use under copyright law in the United States. As Krista Cox noted, ‘As a flexible doctrine, fair use can adapt to evolving technologies and new situations that may arise, and its long history demonstrates its importance in promoting access to information, future innovation, and creativity.’ While the defence of fair use has flourished in the United States, the adoption of the defence of fair use in other jurisdictions has often been stymied. Professor Peter Jaszi has reflected: ‘We can only wonder (with some bemusement) why some of our most important foreign competitors, like the European Union, haven’t figured out that fair use is, to a great extent, the “secret sauce” of U.S. cultural competitiveness.’ Jurisdictions such as Australia have been at a dismal disadvantage, because they lack the freedoms and flexibilities of the defence of fair use.

Stabilization of exotic minority phases in a multicomponent self-assembled molecular network

Trimesic acid (TMA) and alcohols were recently shown to self-assemble into a stable, two-component linear pattern at the solution/highly oriented pyrolytic graphite (HOPG) interface. Away from equilibrium, the TMA/alcohol self-assembled molecular network (SAMN) can coexist with pure-TMA networks. Here, we report on some novel characteristics of these non-equilibrium TMA structures, investigated by scanning tunneling microscopy (STM). We observe that both the chicken-wire and flower-structure TMA phases can host 'guest' C60 molecules within their pores, whereas the TMA/alcohol SAMN does not offer any stable adsorption sites for the C60 molecules. The presence of the C60 molecules at the solution/solid interface was found to improve the STM image quality. We have taken advantage of the high-quality imaging conditions to observe unusual TMA bonding geometries at domain boundaries in the TMA/alcohol SAMN. Boundaries between aligned TMA/alcohol domains can give rise to doubled TMA dimer rows in two different configurations, as well as a tripled-TMA row. The boundaries created between non-aligned domains can create geometries that stabilize TMA bonding configurations not observed on surfaces without TMA/alcohol SAMNs, including small regions of the previously predicted 'super flower' TMA bonding geometry and a tertiary structure related to the known TMA phases. These structures are identified as part of a homologic class of TMA bonding motifs, and we explore some of the reasons for the stabilization of these phases in our multicomponent system.

Supramolecular assembly of heterocirculenes in 2D and 3D

The results of a high-resolution ambient STM study of ‘sulflower’ (octathio[8]circulene) and ‘selenosulflower’ (sym-tetraselena-tetrathio[8]circulene) molecules, immobilized in a hydrogen-bonded matrix of trimesic acid (TMA) at the solid–liquid interface, are compared with the STM and X-ray structure of separate host and guest 2D and 3D crystals, respectively.

Two-dimensional self-assembly of a symmetry-reduced tricarboxylic acid

Investigations of the self-assembly of simple molecules at the solution/solid interface can provide useful insight into the general principles governing supramolecular chemistry in two dimensions. Here, we report on the assembly of 3,4′,5-biphenyl tricarboxylic acid (H3BHTC), a small hydrogen bonding unit related to the much-studied 1,3,5-benzenetricarboxylic acid (trimesic acid, TMA), which we investigate using scanning tunneling microscopy (STM) and density functional theory (DFT) calculations. STM images show that H3BHTC assembles by itself into an offset zigzag chain structure that maximizes the surface molecular density in favor of maximizing the number density of strong cyclic hydrogen bonds between the carboxylic groups. The offset geometry creates “sticky” pores that promote solvent coadsorption. Adding coronene to the molecular solution produces a transformation to a high-symmetry host–guest lattice stabilized by a dimeric/trimeric hydrogen bonding motif similar to the TMA flower structure. Finally, we show that the H3BHTC lattice firmly immobilizes the guest coronene molecules, allowing for high-resolution imaging of the coronene structure.

LibVM: An architecture for shared library sandboxing

Many software applications extend their functionality by dynamically loading libraries into their allocated address space. However, shared libraries are also often of unknown provenance and quality and may contain accidental bugs or, in some cases, deliberately malicious code. Most sandboxing techniques which address these issues require recompilation of the libraries using custom tool chains, require significant modifications to the libraries, do not retain the benefits of single address-space programming, do not completely isolate guest code, or incur substantial performance overheads. In this paper we present LibVM, a sandboxing architecture for isolating libraries within a host application without requiring any modifications to the shared libraries themselves, while still retaining the benefits of a single address space and also introducing a system call inter-positioning layer that allows complete arbitration over a shared library’s functionality. We show how to utilize contemporary hardware virtualization support towards this end with reasonable performance overheads and, in the absence of such hardware support, our model can also be implemented using a software-based mechanism. We ensure that our implementation conforms as closely as possible to existing shared library manipulation functions, minimizing the amount of effort needed to apply such isolation to existing programs. Our experimental results show that it is easy to gain immediate benefits in scenarios where the goal is to guard the host application against unintentional programming errors when using shared libraries, as well as in more complex scenarios, where a shared library is suspected of being actively hostile. In both cases, no changes are required to the shared libraries themselves.

Helix-coil stability constants for amino acids in nonaqueous solvents. Studies of random poly(-benzyl-L-glutamate-co-L-alanine) and poly(-benzyl-L-glutamate-co-L-leucine) in a mixed solvent

The host-guest technique has been applied to the determination of the helix-coil stability constants of two naturally occurring amino acids, L-alanine and L-leucine, in a nonaqueous solvent system. Random copolymers containing L-alanine and L-leucine, respectively, as guest residues and -benzyl-L-glutamate as the host residue were synthesized. The polymers were fractionated and characterized for their amino acid content, molecular weight, and helix-coil transition behavior in a dichloroacetic acid (DCA)-1,2-dichloroethane (DCE) mixture. Two types of helix-coil transitions were carried out on the copolymers: solvent-induced transitions in DCA-DCE mixtures at 25°C and thermally induced transitions in a 82:18 (wt %) DCA-DCE mixture. The thermally induced transitions were analyzed by statistical mechanical methods to determine the Zimm-Bragg parameters, and s, of the guest residues. The experimental data indicate that, in the nonaqueous solvent, the L-alanine residue stabilizes the -helical conformation more than the L-leucine residue does. This is in contrast to their behavior in aqueous solution, where the reverse is true. The implications of this finding for the analysis of helical structures in globular proteins are discussed.

“We don’t tell people what to do”: Ethical practice and Indigenous health promotion

Health promotion aspires to work in empowering, participatory ways, with the goal of supporting people to increase control over their health. However, buried in this goal is an ethical tension: while increasing people’s autonomy, health promotion also imposes a particular, health promotion-sanctioned version of what is good. This tension positions practitioners precariously, where the ethos of empowerment risks increasing health promotion’s paternalistic control over people, rather than people’s control over their own health. Here in we argue that this ethical tension is amplified in Indigenous Australia, where colonial processes of control over Indigenous lands, lives and cultures are indistinguishable from contemporary health promotion ‘interventions’. Moreover, the potential stigmatisation produced in any paternalistic acts ‘done for their own good’ cannot be assumed to have evaporated within the self-proclaimed ‘empowering’ narratives of health promotion. This issue’s guest editor’s call for health promotion to engage ‘with politics and with philosophical ideas about the state and the citizen’ is particularly relevant in an Indigenous Australian context. Indigenous Australians continue to experience health promotion as a moral project of control through intervention, which contradicts health promotion’s central goal of empowerment. Therefore, Indigenous health promotion is an invaluable site for discussion and analysis of health promotion’s broader ethical tensions. Given the persistent and alarming Indigenous health inequalities, this paper calls for systematic ethical reflection in order to redress health promotion’s general failure to reduce health inequalities experienced by Indigenous Australians.

Water bottles from China: Decoding visual grammar

On the ALEA Study Tour to China, Beryl Exley and her roomie Kathryn O’Sullivan pondered over their first night dilemma whilst staying at a hotel in Beijing. They read the room service guide (in English) which advised against drinking the tap water and confirming the supply of one bottle of complementary water per guest per day. The room service guide listed ‘special’ bottled water was the equivalent of $AUS7 per bottle. However the dilemma was this: sitting on the shelf above the fridge were three different kinds of water-like bottles. Each had a different label, written mainly in Chinese characters. Not wanting to mistake the bottles, Beryl and Kathryn set about decoding the text of the three bottles in question.