The Ballets Russes connection with fashion.

This paper examines the influence that the costume designers of the Ballets Russes, many of whom were important artists from significant art movements of the day, had on contemporaneous fashion. It looks at why in particular the 'Ballets Russes' artists Leon Bakst and Natalia Goncharova went on to involve themselves in actual fashion production and the similarities between their work and the fashion designers producing work at the same time, principally Paul Poiret, Mariano Fortuny and Coco Chanel. Overall, this paper investigates the significance of the cultural times and of the distinct characteristics of the separate art forms, that may have encouraged avant-garde art and fashion to crossover and collaborate so unreservedly.

Connections between Modern and Postmodern art and fashion.

This paper undertakes to construe the affinities and divergences in the genres of art and fashion throughout the 20th century through the use of particular visual and theoretical examples, examined at greater length in a more extensive study of ‘The relationship between the artist and the fashion designer in the twentieth century’ (Vettese, 2005). Examination of the 20th century has revealed two particular periods – ‘Modernism’ and ‘Postmodernism’ – that were evident and fitting to this analysis. The research is a summation of these findings, where the differences and affinities in the mechanisms of 20th century art and fashion, including imposing messages and innovation in Modernism and the mixed messages, recycling and commercial aspects of Postmodernism, are disseminated.

A visual and contextual comparative study of the work of Picasso and Chanel towards an understanding of the overlaps between Modern Art and Fashion.

From the beginning of the twentieth century, ``Modernism`` impacted and transformed art and clothing. Pablo Picasso and Gabrielle ``Coco`` Chanel were two of the most central characters in Modernism working simultaneously in their disciplines. Picasso`s innovations, particularly in abstract art and Chanel`s fashion designs, that dramatically departed from the previous corseted and highly deco-rative styles, were so significant that they have left an influence on contemporary art and fashion. This study will compare their visual works and documented evidence of their motivations, within the context of their cultural backgrounds, to reveal meaning in the occurrences of overlaps. This approach has ex-amined the historical, cultural background of the artist and designer`s environment from different per-spectives, adding to previous research in this area. Through this research, outcomes of the analysis have shown similarities and divergences in the wider genres of art and fashion and the practice of the artist and fashion designer. The reference list to this text, used in the survey, gives a comprehensive overview of pertinent publications disseminating Picasso and Chanel`s visual works, oral perspectives and cultural impact.

"Secretary in Fashion" and "Love-Letters": a study of socio-cultural and pragmatic-linguistic features in the late 17th century English language

Epistolary manuals are conspicuous historical documents for the pedagogy of letter writing; however, their actual usage as manuals by letter writers is unknown. "Secretary in Fashion" by Serre (1668), an epistolary manual, and "Love-Letters between a Nobleman and his Sister" (1684), an epistolary novel attributed to Behn, both give insights into epistolary conventions. Their inception and nature is interesting, considering their historical context. Despite the Restoration of Charles II, 17th century England was in a confused political state; as a result, texts regarding social convention or politics interested contemporary readers (the novel is inspired by a scandal of Lord Grey, an ardent Whig opposing Charles II). Past epistolary studies focus on 18th rather than 17th century manuals; the latter is typically used as supplementary information. Similarly, past epistolary fiction studies focus on 18th century texts; moreover, linguistic studies on Behn and the novel are deficient. Thus, this study addresses the research questions: 1) What are the socio-cultural and pragmaticlinguistic features represented in "Secretary in Fashion"? 2) What are the socio-cultural and pragmatic-linguistic features represented in "Love-Letters between a Nobleman and his Sister", and do any of these features correlate with the features represented in "Secretary in Fashion"? How far do the characteristic linguistic features of "Love-Letters between a Nobleman and his Sister" correlate with the practices recommended by the manual? Both texts were qualitatively analysed from an historical pragmatic perspective, which observes the potential effects of the socio-cultural and historical context. Also, as the texts concern shared discourses, comparisons were made with Gricean and Politeness Theory. The results show that the manual is a typical 17th century epistolary manual, aligning particularly with the "Academies of Complements", as it concerns the social conventions of the gentry. The novel mainly upheld instructions on form and matter; deviations occurred due to the amatory nature of some letters, and the narrative force affecting the style. Unfortunately, neither research question elucidates the actual usage of manuals. However, this study does show the epistolary practices of two writers, within specific contexts. It reveals that their 17th century English language use is affected by socialisation, in terms of social conventions concerning social rank, age, and gender; therefore, context varies language use. Also, their popularity reveals the interests of the 17th century society. Interest in epistolary-related texts, surely piques the interest of the modern reader as to why such epistolary-related texts were interesting.

Dise?o de un blog para la ense?anza de las enfermedades de transmisi?n sexual a partir del trabajo de aula realizado con estudiantes del grado aceleraci?n del aprendizaje de la Instituci?n Educativa La Buitrera, sede Jos? Mar?a Garc?a de Toledo

La presente investigaci?n surge a partir de datos obtenidos en la Instituci?n Educativa la Buitrera sede Jos? Mar?a Garc?a de Toledo, con estudiantes de aceleraci?n del aprendizaje, metodolog?a conocida como modelo flexible, dirigido a poblaci?n en extraedad y en condici?n de vulnerabilidad. Se elaboran diferentes estrategias que permitan dar cuenta del conocimiento que tienen algunos adolescentes en relaci?n a las ETS y que actividades se utilizar?an para abordar estos temas en la escuela. De las respuestas obtenidas se tiene en cuenta la posibilidad de lograr ense?ar estos temas haciendo uso de las nuevas tecnolog?as; por lo cual se dise?? un material (blog educativo) con los aportes y actividades realizadas con los estudiantes que participaron en la b?squeda de material informativo de las ETS y fundamentados en las teor?as de dise?o Instruccional, el EAC (entorno de aprendizaje constructivista). Para llevar a cabo la propuesta se parte de la construcci?n de unos prop?sitos que con lleven a la realizaci?n del dise?o del blog teniendo en cuenta las necesidades identificadas en los estudiantes. La propuesta metodol?gica fue desarrollada en varias fases: las cuales permitieron realizar una revisi?n bibliogr?fica, la aplicaci?n de un cuestionario, el dise?o de plantillas y el dise?o del blog con un enfoque did?ctico y pedag?gico, que incluye en su dise?o la participaci?n del estudiante en procesos de comunicaci?n y relaci?n social, adem?s se trabajan contenidos espec?ficos sobre ETS, y algunas actividades que fomenten inter?s al estudiante en la participaci?n y aporte de posibles soluciones a problem?ticas relacionadas con el tema a trav?s de la virtualidad. Facilitando su interactividad y comunicaci?n, porque en el aula los j?venes muestran timidez a la hora de dar a conocer sus opiniones acerca de la sexualidad. Finalmente se puede concluir que tanto la metodolog?a (resoluci?n de problemas) escogida para el dise?o del blog favorecen el aprendizaje de la tem?tica de las ETS donde se puede evidenciar los aportes de cada uno de los estudiantes en relaci?n a la construcci?n de un material que les puede dar m?s claridad respecto a la tem?tica.

Atitudes dos leitores de blogues de moda e beleza perante as publicações patrocinadas : intenção de compra e eWOM

Mestrado em Marketing

International Branding Strategies : In Swedish and Russian Fashion Companies

There are a lot of different business strategies for any company. However, in the fashion industry, the best way to become successful is to develop the brand using special branding strategies. Hence, a brand is the main weapon for fashion companies, which helps to launch international market and to create loyal customers around the world. Nowadays, due to the difficult current political situations and the collapse of oil and the dollar a lot of companies in different industries have to change their business strategies. It is especially true for fashion companies, because they depend on consumers ' income and their purchasing power. In the case of the fashion industry, branding strategy development can be more effective, than just business strategy. Hence, this thesis discusses the following problem: What branding strategy should Russian and Swedish fashion companies choose in order to build a strong brand and enter the international market.  The purpose of this thesis is to analyze various branding strategies of Russian and Swedish fashion companies during the process of entering foreign markets. At the end of this thesis, practical contribution in their process of international branding strategy creation will be discussed. In order to answer research questions more broadly and accurately, the mixed research method, using quantitive and qualitative study through interviews and survey was chosen. Semi-structured interviews were made with the CEO and brand managers of Russian and Swedish fashion companies. Moreover, the survey was made with two different questionnaires: for Russian and for Swedish customers. In the case of qualitative research, the author found that fashion companies from Russia and Sweden have got not just some features and differences, but also common aspects. The primary data from interviews allowed the author to understand the specifics of brand management in the fashion industry. It was found, that there are some useful aspects in Swedish strategies, which can be used by Russian companies to develop their brands on the international market. In the case of quantitative research, preferences of consumers from Russia and Sweden were analyzed and also some features were identified. Survey results provided the author with a common understanding about purchase habits, attitudes and perceptions to fashion brands. According to these, some hypothesizes, which are formulated in the first part of the thesis, have been proven or disproven. It was found, that preferences of Russian and Swedish people are pretty the same, however Russian customers do not like to risk with new brands and prefer well-known and trusted brands while Swedish customers are open for any brand, which can satisfy their tastes.

End-to-end Deep Metric Learning con Vision-Language Model per il Fashion Image Captioning

L'image captioning è un task di machine learning che consiste nella generazione di una didascalia, o caption, che descriva le caratteristiche di un'immagine data in input. Questo può essere applicato, ad esempio, per descrivere in dettaglio i prodotti in vendita su un sito di e-commerce, migliorando l'accessibilità del sito web e permettendo un acquisto più consapevole ai clienti con difficoltà visive. La generazione di descrizioni accurate per gli articoli di moda online è importante non solo per migliorare le esperienze di acquisto dei clienti, ma anche per aumentare le vendite online. Oltre alla necessità di presentare correttamente gli attributi degli articoli, infatti, descrivere i propri prodotti con il giusto linguaggio può contribuire a catturare l'attenzione dei clienti. In questa tesi, ci poniamo l'obiettivo di sviluppare un sistema in grado di generare una caption che descriva in modo dettagliato l'immagine di un prodotto dell'industria della moda dato in input, sia esso un capo di vestiario o un qualche tipo di accessorio. A questo proposito, negli ultimi anni molti studi hanno proposto soluzioni basate su reti convoluzionali e LSTM. In questo progetto proponiamo invece un'architettura encoder-decoder, che utilizza il modello Vision Transformer per la codifica delle immagini e GPT-2 per la generazione dei testi. Studiamo inoltre come tecniche di deep metric learning applicate in end-to-end durante l'addestramento influenzino le metriche e la qualità delle caption generate dal nostro modello.

Sustainable futuring. Learning and unlearning the past A critical discourse study of ‘fashion sustainability’-related discursive formations in Vogue Italia (1965-2021)

Recent scholarly works on the relationship between ‘fashion’ and ‘sustainability’ have identified a need for a systemic transition towards fashion media ‘for sustaianbility’. Nevertheless, the academic research on the topic is still limited and rather circumscribed to the analysis of marketing practices, while only recently some more systemic and critical analyses of the symbolic production of sustainability through fashion media have been undertaken. Responding to this need for an in-depth investigation of ‘sustainability’-related media production, my research focuses on the ‘fashion sustainability’-related discursive formations in the context of one of the most influential fashion magazines today – Vogue Italia. In order to investigate the ways in which the ‘sustainability’ discourse was formed and has evolved, the study considered the entire Vogue Italia archive from 1965 to 2021. The data collection was carried out in two phases, and the individualised relevant discursive units were then in-depth and critically analysed to allow for a grounded assessment of the media giant’s position. The Discourse-Historical Approach provided a methodological base for the analysis, which took into consideration the various levels of context: the immediate textual and intertextual, but also the broader socio-cultural context of the predominant, over-production oriented and capital-led fashion system. The findings led to a delineation of the evolution of the ‘fashion sustainability’ discourse, unveiling how despite Vogue Italia’s auto-determination as attentive to ‘sustainability’-related topics, the magazine is systemically employing discursive strategies which significantly mitigate the meaning of the ‘sustainable commitment’ and thus the meaning of ‘fashion sustainability’.

Economia Circolare e Industria 4.0: big data come strumento di sostenibilità nell’industria del fashion

L’argomento di questa tesi nasce dall’idea di unire due temi che stanno assumendo sempre più importanza nei nostri giorni, ovvero l’economia circolare e i big data, e ha come obiettivo quello di fornire dei punti di collegamento tra questi due. In un mondo tecnologico come quello di oggi, che sta trasformando tutto quello che abbiamo tra le nostre mani in digitale, si stanno svolgendo sempre più studi per capire come la sostenibilità possa essere supportata dalle tecnologie emergenti. L’economia circolare costituisce un nuovo paradigma economico in grado di sostituirsi a modelli di crescita incentrati su una visione lineare, puntando ad una riduzione degli sprechi e ad un radicale ripensamento nella concezione dei prodotti e nel loro uso nel tempo. In questa transizione verso un’economia circolare può essere utile considerare di assumere le nuove tecnologie emergenti per semplificare i processi di produzione e attuare politiche più sostenibili, che stanno diventando sempre più apprezzate anche dai consumatori. Il tutto verrà sostenuto dall’utilizzo sempre più significativo dei big data, ovvero di grandi dati ricchi di informazioni che permettono, tramite un’attenta analisi, di sviluppare piani di produzione che seguono il paradigma circolare: questo viene attuato grazie ai nuovi sistemi digitali sempre più innovativi e alle figure specializzate che acquisiscono sempre più conoscenze in questo campo.