Significance of clay minerals in shoaling problems /

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Simplified method for estimating refraction and shoaling effects on ocean waves /

"November 1975."

Long wave generation by the shoaling and breaking of transient wave groups on a beach

This paper presents new laboratory data on the generation of long waves by the shoaling and breaking of transient-focused short-wave groups. Direct offshore radiation of long waves from the breakpoint is shown experimentally for the first time. High spatial resolution enables identification of the relationship between the spatial gradients of the short-wave envelope and the long-wave surface. This relationship is consistent with radiation stress theory even well inside the surf zone and appears as a result of the strong nonlinear forcing associated with the transient group. In shallow water, the change in depth across the group leads to asymmetry in the forcing which generates significant dynamic setup in front of the group during shoaling. Strong amplification of the incident dynamic setup occurs after short-wave breaking. The data show the radiation of a transient long wave dominated by a pulse of positive elevation, preceded and followed by weaker trailing waves with negative elevation. The instantaneous cross-shore structure of the long wave shows the mechanics of the reflection process and the formation of a transient node in the inner surf zone. The wave run-up and relative amplitude of the radiated and incident long waves suggests significant modification of the incident bound wave in the inner surf zone and, the dominance of long waves generated by the breaking process. It is proposed that these conditions occur when the primary short waves and bound wave are not shallow water waves at the breakpoint. A simple criterion is given to determine these conditions, which generally occur for the important case of storm waves.

Antarctic ice shelf melting and its impact on the global sea ice-ocean system

Earth s ice shelves are mainly located in Antarctica. They cover about 44% of the Antarctic coastline and are a salient feature of the continent. Antarctic ice shelf melting (AISM) removes heat from and inputs freshwater into the adjacent Southern Ocean. Although playing an important role in the global climate, AISM is one of the most important components currently absent in the IPCC climate model. In this study, AISM is introduced into a global sea ice-ocean climate model ORCA2-LIM, following the approach of Beckmann and Goosse (2003; BG03) for the thermodynamic interaction between the ice shelf and ocean. This forms the model ORCA2-LIM-ISP (ISP: ice shelf parameterization), in which not only all the major Antarctic ice shelves but also a number of minor ice shelves are included. Using these two models, ORCA2-LIM and ORCA2-LIM-ISP, the impact of addition of AISM and increasing AISM have been investigated. Using the ORCA2-LIM model, numerical experiments are performed to investigate the sensitivity of the polar sea ice cover and the Antarctic Circumpolar Current (ACC) transport through Drake Passage (DP) to the variations of three sea ice parameters, namely the thickness of newly formed ice in leads (h0), the compressive strength of ice (P*), and the turning angle in the oceanic boundary layer beneath sea ice (θ). It is found that the magnitudes of h0 and P* have little impact on the seasonal sea ice extent, but lead to large changes in the seasonal sea ice volume. The variation in turning angle has little impact on the sea ice extent and volume in the Arctic but tends to reduce them in the Antarctica when ignored. The magnitude of P* has the least impact on the DP transport, while the other two parameters have much larger influences. Numerical results from ORCA2-LIM and ORCA2-LIM-ISP are analyzed to investigate how the inclusion of AISM affects the representation of the Southern Ocean hydrography. Comparisons with data from the World Ocean Circulation Experiment (WOCE) show that the addition of AISM significantly improves the simulated hydrography. It not only warms and freshens the originally too cold and too saline bottom water (AABW), but also warms and enriches the salinity of the originally too cold and too fresh warm deep water (WDW). Addition of AISM also improves the simulated stratification. The close agreement between the simulation with AISM and the observations suggests that the applied parameterization is an adequate way to include the effect of AISM in a global sea ice-ocean climate model. We also investigate the models capability to represent the sea ice-ocean system in the North Atlantic Ocean and the Arctic regions. Our study shows both models (with and without AISM) can successfully reproduce the main features of the sea ice-ocean system. However, both tend to overestimate the ice flux through the Nares Strait, produce a lower temperature and salinity in the Hudson Bay, Baffin Bay and Davis Strait, and miss the deep convection in the Labrador Sea. These deficiencies are mainly attributed to the artificial enlargement of the Nares Strait in the model. In this study, the impact of increasing AISM on the global sea ice-ocean system is thoroughly investigated. This provides a first idea regarding changes induced by increasing AISM. It is shown that the impact of increasing AISM is global and most significant in the Southern Ocean. There, increasing AISM tends to freshen the surface water, to warm the intermediate and deep waters, and to freshen and warm the bottom water. In addition, increasing AISM also leads to changes in the mixed layer depths (MLD) in the deep convection sites in the Southern Ocean, deepening in the Antarctic continental shelf while shoaling in the ACC region. Furthermore, increasing AISM influences the current system in the Southern Ocean. It tends to weaken the ACC, and strengthen the Antarctic coastal current (ACoC) as well as the Weddell Gyre and the Ross Gyre. In addition to the ocean system, increasing AISM also has a notable impact on the Antarctic sea ice cover. Due to the cooling of seawater, sea ice concentration and thickness generally become higher. In austral winter, noticeable increases in sea ice concentration mainly take place near the ice edge. In regards with sea ice thickness, large increases are mainly found along the coast of the Weddell Sea, the Bellingshausen and Amundsen Seas, and the Ross Sea. The overall thickening of sea ice leads to a larger volume of sea ice in Antarctica. In the North Atlantic, increasing AISM leads to remarkable changes in temperature, salinity and density. The water generally becomes warmer, more saline and denser. The most significant warming occurs in the subsurface layer. In contrast, the maximum salinity increase is found at the surface. In addition, the MLD becomes larger along the Greenland-Scotland-Iceland ridge. Global teleconnections due to AISM are studied. The AISM signal is transported with the surface current: the additional freshwater from AISM tends to enhance the northward spreading of the surface water. As a result, more warm and saline water is transported from the tropical region to the North Atlantic Ocean, resulting in warming and salt enrichment there. It would take about 30 40 years to establish a systematic noticeable change in temperature, salinity and MLD in the North Atlantic Ocean according to this study. The changes in hydrography due to increasing AISM are compared with observations. Consistency suggests that increasing AISM is highly likely a major contributor to the recent observed changes in the Southern Ocean. In addition, the AISM might contribute to the salinity contrast between the North Atlantic and North Pacific, which is important for the global thermohaline circulation.

Impact of diurnal forcing on intraseasonal sea surface temperature oscillations in the Bay of Bengal

The diurnal cycle is an important mode of sea surface temperature (SST) variability in tropical oceans, influencing air-sea interaction and climate variability. Upper ocean mixing mechanisms are significant at diurnal time scales controlling the intraseasonal variability (ISV) of SST. Sensitivity experiments using an Ocean General Circulation Model (OGCM) for the summer monsoon of the year 2007 show that incorporation of diurnal cycle in the model atmospheric forcings improves the SST simulation at both intraseasonal and shorter time scales in the Bay of Bengal (BoB). The increase in SST-ISV amplitudes with diurnal forcing is approximate to 0.05 degrees C in the southern bay while it is approximate to 0.02 degrees C in the northern bay. Increased intraseasonal warming with diurnal forcing results from the increase in mixed layer heat gain from insolation, due to shoaling of the daytime mixed layer. Amplified intraseasonal cooling is dominantly controlled by the strengthening of subsurface processes owing to the nocturnal deepening of mixed layer. In the southern bay, intraseasonal variability is mainly determined by the diurnal cycle in insolation, while in the northern bay, diurnal cycle in insolation and winds have comparable contributions. Temperature inversions (TI) develop in the northern bay in the absence of diurnal variability in wind stress. In the northern bay, SST-ISV amplification is not as large as that in the southern bay due to the weaker diurnal variability of mixed layer depth (MLD) limited by salinity stratification. Diurnal variability of model MLD is not sufficient to create large modifications in mixed layer heat budget and SST-ISV in the northern bay.

Seasonal cycles of phytoplankton in relation to the hydrography of Monterey Bay

Annual cycles of relative abundance are described for phytoplankton species collected from Monterey Bay, California, from July 1974 to June 1976, and the population dynamics related to the annual hydrographic cycle. Neritic diatom species dominated the population during the Upwelling and Oceanic periods, with dinoflagellate species becoming numerically more important during the Davidson period. Recurrent species groups identified using Fager's regroup analysis revealed the presence of a large neritic group of overwhelming numerical importance. This group is composed of indigenous species and is present in the bay during most of the year. Conspicuous changes in the phytoplankton population occurred predominantly among species within this group. During the Davidson period, the advection of southern waters into the bay may temporarily displace the endemic species with dinoflagellates becoming numerically more important. A red tide bloom of Gonyaulax polyedra occurred during this period in 1974, which dominated the phytoplankton population for a period of six weeks. The population dynamics of two hydrographically different stations were compared. A station located over the deep waters of the submarine canyon exhibited much lower phytoplankton standing stocks than a station located over the shelf area in the south of the bay, but seasonal changes in relative abundance and species composition were similar. Physical and chemical differences observed between the two stations appear to be the result of the presence of more recently upwelled water in the canyon area, and higher biological utilization in the south of the bay. A close correlation of species diversity with the depth of the mixed layer was observed, with diversity rising with the shoaling of the thermocline. It is suggested that this may reflect the introduction of new species from below the thermocline into the mixed layer as a result of upwelling activity. It is also suggested that this may be an artifact due to sampling problems associated with internal waves. (Document contains 100 pages.)

Inlet stability and case histories, Part II

Inlets which require frequent channel dredging due to gradual shoaling, exhibit migration, or shoal up during storms, are in general unstable and pose a problem to the engineer. This problem of inlet stability is a complex one, because of the rather large number of variables that go into defining stability. The reference here is to inlets on sandy coasts only, because the absence of sand or similar sedimentary material the problem does not arise. Shell is also found in varying proportions with sand. Some of this is. new, whereas in some areas it is ancient reworked material whose size distribution is close to that of the sand with which it is associated. (PDF has 24 pages.)

MODELING EVOLUTION OF INTERNAL WAVES IN SOUTH CHINA SEA

Internal waves are an important factor in the design of drill operations and production in deep water, because the waves have very large amplitude and may induce large horizontal velocity. How the internal waves occur and propagate over benthal terrain is of great concern for ocean engineers. In the present paper, we have formulated a mathematical model of internal wave propagation in a two-layer deep water, which involves the effects of friction, dissipation and shoaling, and is capable of manifesting the variation of the amplitude and the velocity pattern. After calibration by field data measured at the Continental Slope in the Northern South China Sea, we have applied the model to the South China Sea, investigating the westward propagation of internal waves from the Luzon Strait, where internal waves originate due to the interaction of benthal ridge and tides. We find that the internal wave induced velocity profile is obviously characterized by the opposite flow below and above the pycnocline, which results in a strong shear, threatening safety of ocean structures, such as mooring system of oil platform, risers, etc. When internal waves propagate westwards, the amplitude attenuates due to the effects of friction and dissipation. The preliminary results show that the amplitude is likely to become half of its initial value at Luzon Strait when the internal waves propagate about 400 kilometers westwards.

Diets of thornback ray (Raja clavata) and tope shark (Galeorhinus galeus) in the bottom longline fishery of the Azores, northeastern Atlantic

Tope shark (Galeorhinus galeus) and thornback ray (Raja clavata) are the two most captured elasmobranch species by the Azorean bottom longline fishery. In order to better understand the trophic dynamics of these species in the Azores, the diets of thornback ray and tope shark caught in this area during 1996 and 1997 were analyzed to describe feeding patterns and to investigate the effect of sex, size, and depth and area of capture on diet. Thornback rays fed mainly upon fishes and reptants, but also upon polychaetes, mysids, natant crustaceans, isopods, and cephalopods. In the Azores, this species preyed more heavily upon fish compared with the predation patterns described in other areas. Differences in the diet may be due to differences in the environments (e.g. in the Azores, seamounts and oceanic islands are the major topographic features, whereas in all other studies, continental shelves have been the major topographic feature). No differences were observed in the major prey consumed between the sexes or between size classes (49−60, 61−70, 71−80, and 81−93 cm TL). Our study indicates that rays inhabiting different depths and areas (coastal or offshore banks) prey upon different resources. This appears to be related to the relative abundance of prey with habitat. Tope sharks were found to prey almost exclusively upon teleost fish: small shoaling fish, mainly boarfish (Capros aper) and snipefish (Macroramphosus scolopax), were the most frequent prey. This study illustrates that thornback rays and tope sharks are top predators in waters off the Azores.

Food and feeding habits of Megalaspis cordyla (Linnaeus, 1758) along the northwest coast of India

Megalaspis cordyla as one of the shoaling commercially important pelagic fish in the Northwest coast of India. The study on food and feeding habits of this fish revealed that it is predominantly a carnivorous species feeding primarily on sergestied shrimps like Acetes indicus and small fishes such as Stolephorus species. In addition it feeds on juveniles of Trichiurus, Apogon, Coilia, Sardinella, Nemipterus, Thryssa, and sciaenids. The food of M. cordyla also comprises the young ones of molluscs, especially Loligo and Sepia and occasionally ostracods. The choice food is Acetes indicus.

A case study of the disappearance of Arius tenuispinis (marine catfish) in the vicinity of Visakhapatnam due to mechanised fishing

Visakhapatnam is on the eastern sea board of India (17 degree 40' N and 83 degree 15' E) having a continental shelf of 45 km width which is provided with a polychaete rich, silty clay sea floor to a distance of 15 km and beyond, from the shore. Repeated trawling by a large number of trawlers over an area of 900 sq.km (30 x 30) resulted in the hardening of the substratum to the extent of making it uninhabitable to the polychaetes and polychaete feeding fish. The shoaling and strictly demersal marine catfish, Arius tenuispinis, which is a prolific polychaete feeder on the fishing grounds off Visakhapatnam, has been on the decline since 1979. The catch rate of fish dropped from 9.7 kg/boat per day in 1979 to 2.6 kg by 1985-86. In the bottomset gillnets, the catch per net dwindled from 4.4 kg in 1973 to 0.04 kg by 1985-86. The species has virtually disappeared from the fishing grounds off Visakhapatnam and further north, as a results of the cumulative effect of overfishing with trawlnets and bottomset gillnets. It is further aggravated by the hardening of the sea floor on these grounds due to repeated trawling over a narrow zone.

Processing aspects of Indian mackerel: a review

Indian mackerel belongs to the family Scombridae and the genus Rastrelliger. The Indian mackerel, Rastrelliger kanagurta (Cuvier), is a pelagic shoaling fish widely distributed in the Indo Pacific region with maximum abundance in Indian coasts. Another species, R. brachysoma (Bleeker), also is reported from the Andamans in Indian waters. However, the former is the species that supports the fishery in India (Nair, 1970).

Some major unsolved aspects of the dynamics of African fisheries as related to questions of rational development and management

Studies of fish and fisheries in Africa fall in to four phases: the period of fisheries expeditions, ecological investigations, the development phase, and the period of mechanized exploitation. There is need to establish the taxonomic status and ecology of the varied components of the potentially important Haplochromis in Lake Victoria. A comprehensive study of their bionomics and life history, population structure, natality, recruitment and mortality coefficients should be undertaken. Emphasis lo be laid on the study of the ecology, especially breeding behaviour of the economically important c1upeids (Stolothrissa tanganciae and Limnothrissa miodon), in Lake Tanganyika. A comprehensive investigation into the migratory and shoaling behaviour of the Lake Victoria Tilapia to be initiated. Pre-impoundment studies to be undertaken to assess effects of hydroelectric projects of fisheries. Studies on parasites of economically important fishes to be stepped up to assess pathological effects and the biological basis for their control. The role of predators, e.g., Hydrocyon, Lates and Micropterus salmoides in commercial fish populations should be evaluated, and the knowledge gaincd used to effectively manage the fisheries in favour of the more desirable fish stocks.

Interaction between tsunami waves and isolated conical Islands

A newly developed computer model, which solves the horizontal two-dimensional Boussinesq equations using a total variation diminishing Lax-Wendroff scheme, has been used to study the runup of solitary waves, with various heights, on idealized conical islands consisting of side slopes of different angles. This numerical model has first been validated against high-quality laboratory measurements of solitary wave runups on a uniform plane slope and on an isoliated conical island, with satisfactory agreement being achieved. An extensive parametric study concerning the effects of the wave height and island slope on the solitary wave runup has subsequently been carried out. Strong wave shoaling and diffraction effects have been observed for all the cases investigated. The relationship between the runup height and wave height has been obtained and compared with that for the case on uniform plane slopes. It has been found that the runup on a conical island is generally lower than that on a uniform plane slope, as a result of the two-dimensional effect. The correlation between the runup with the side slope of an island has also been identified, with higher runups on milder slopes. This comprehensive study on the soliton runup on islands is relevant to the protection of coastal and inland regions from extreme wave attacks. © the Coastal Education & Research Foundation 2012.

Modelling a light-driven phytoplankton succession

We used a numerical model to investigate if and to what extent cellular photoprotective capacity accounts for succession and vertical distribution of marine phytoplankton species/groups. A model describing xanthophyll photoprotective activity in phytoplankton has been implemented in the European Regional Sea Ecosystem Model and applied at the station L4 in the Western English Channel. Primary producers were subdivided into three phytoplankton functional types defined in terms of their capacity to acclimate to different light-specific environments: low light (LL-type), high light (HL-type) and variable light (VL-type) adapted species. The LL-type is assumed to have low cellular level of xanthophyll-cycling pigments (PX) relative to the modelled photosynthetically active pigments (chlorophyll and fucoxanthin (FUCO) = PSP). The HL-type has high PX content relative to PSP while VL-type presents an intermediate PX to PSP ratio. Furthermore, the VL-type is capable of reversibly converting FUCO to PX and synthesizing new PX under high-light stress. In order to reproduce phytoplankton community succession with each of the three groups being dominant in different periods of the year, we had also to assume reduced grazing pressure on HL-adapted species. Model simulations realistically reproduce the observed seasonal patterns of pigments and nutrients highlighting the reasonability of the underpinning assumptions. Our model suggests that pigment-mediated photophysiology plays a primary role in determining the evolution of marine phytoplankton communities in the winter-spring period corresponding to the shoaling of the mixed layer and the increase of light intensity. Grazing selectivity however contributes to the phytoplankton community composition in summer.