Pass the scissors : consumers close in on the fashion industry

The fashion ecosystem is at boiling point as consumers turn up the heat in all areas of the fashion value, trend and supply chain. While traditionally fashion has been a monologue from designer brand to consumer, new technology and the virtual world has given consumers a voice to engage brands in a conversation to express evolving needs, ideas and feedback. Product customisation is no longer innovative. Successful brands are including customers in the design process and holding conversations ‘with’ them to improve product, manufacturing, sales, distribution, marketing and sustainable business practices. Co-creation and crowd sourcing are integral to any successful business model and designers and manufacturers are supplying the technology or tools for these creative, active, participatory ‘prosumers’. With this collaboration however, there arises a worrying trend for fashion professionals. The ‘design it yourself’, ‘indiepreneur’ who with the combination of technology, the internet, excess manufacturing capacity, crowd funding and the idea of sharing the creative integrity of a product (‘copyleft’ not copyright) is challenging the notion that the fashion supply chain is complex. The passive ‘consumer’ no longer exists. Fashion designers now share the stage with ‘amateur’ creators who are disrupting every activity they touch, while being motivated by profit as well as a quest for originality and innovation. This paper examines the effects this ‘consumer’ engagement is having on traditional fashion models and the fashion supply chain. Crowd sourcing, crowd funding, co-creating, design it yourself, global sourcing, the virtual supply chain, social media, online shopping, group buying, consumer to consumer marketing and retail, and branding the ‘individual’ are indicative of the new consumer-driven fashion models. Consumers now drive the fashion industry - from setting trends, through to creating, producing, selling and marketing product. They can turn up the heat at any time _ and any point _ in the fashion supply chain. They are raising the temperature at each and every stage of the chain, decreasing or eliminating the processes involved: decreasing the risk of fashion obsolescence, quantities for manufacture, complexity of distribution and the consumption of product; eliminating certain stages altogether and limiting the brand as custodians of marketing. Some brands are discovering a new ‘enemy’ – the very people they are trying to sell to. Keywords: fashion supply chain, virtual world, consumer, ‘prosumers’, co-creation, fashion designers

ACE research briefing paper 004 : emerging and young high potential start-ups

In this report we take a look at what separates high potential emerging and young start-ups from others. We compare the characteristics, intentions and behaviours of start-ups that we judge to be 'high potential' with other start-ups. We utilise the first two years of data from the CAUSEE study. We also compare Australian start-ups with a similar study conduced in the US.

ACE research vignette 021 : does the use of “bricolage” make start-ups more innovative?

This series of research vignettes is aimed at sharing current and interesting research findings from our team of international Entrepreneurship researchers. In this vignette, Professor Per Davidsson and Associate Professor Paul Steffens consider the links between entrepreneurial “bricolage” and innovation.

Early stage start-ups : evidence from the Comprehensive Australian Study of Entrepreneurial Emergence (CAUSEE)

In this chapter, the picture of Australian small business is supplemented by using data from the Comprehensive Australian Study of Entrepreneurial Emergence (CAUSEE) . This data tracks large numbers of on-going business start-ups over time. The Australian Centre of Entrepreneurship Research at Queensland University of Technology collected data in four annual waves. (Wave 1 to Wave 4) from 2007 to 2011. CAUSEE allows the analysis of entrepreneurial entrants at two stages of development, i.e. nascent and young firms. Nascent firms are defined as firms in the process of being created, but not yet established in the market, and young firms are defined as having been operational for up to four years. An analysis of nascent firms provides unique insights, as no other known Australian database captures and follows the development of business start-ups at the pre-operational stage. In addition, the project captured judgment over samples of high-potential start-ups.

Global start-ups profile : one size fits all?

Our research aims to answer the research questions “How do we commonly describe the global start-ups profile as evidenced in prior inductive research?” and “Does this global start-ups profile can effectively explain phenomena in Australian global start-up firms?” We systematically review 29 global start-ups (144 firms) qualitative articles to understand descriptive definitions of global-startup firms. We then triangulate this finding with an Australian high-tech firm. Our contribution is to form a descriptive profile of global start-up phenomenon and raise interesting issues that have potentially fruitful findings for both research and practice. This profile might well be just a deviant from the traditional model that describes how firms establish their footprints, first in their domestic markets followed by moves into cross-border activities. Regardless, government agencies, consultants, and entrepreneurs need to understand the phenomenon. Thus we anticipate that this phenomenon will continue to provide interesting issues for pursuit, both by researchers as well as the practitioner community.

kmth price sealed-bid auctions with general independent values and equilibrium linear mark-ups

A generalised bidding model is developed to calculate a bidder’s expected profit and auctioners expected revenue/payment for both a General Independent Value and Independent Private Value (IPV) kmth price sealed-bid auction (where the mth bidder wins at the kth bid payment) using a linear (affine) mark-up function. The Common Value (CV) assumption, and highbid and lowbid symmetric and asymmetric First Price Auctions and Second Price Auctions are included as special cases. The optimal n bidder symmetric analytical results are then provided for the uniform IPV and CV models in equilibrium. Final comments concern implications, the assumptions involved and prospects for further research.

Comparison of ocular modulation transfer function determined by a ray-tracing aberrometer and a double-pass system in early cataract patients

BACKGROUND: The evaluation of retinal image quality in cataract eyes has gained importance and the clinical modulation transfer functions (MTF) can obtained by aberrometer and double pass (DP) system. This study aimed to compare MTF derived from a ray tracing aberrometer and a DP system in early cataractous and normal eyes. METHODS: There were 128 subjects with 61 control eyes and 67 eyes with early cataract defined according to the Lens Opacities Classification System III. A laser ray-tracing wavefront aberrometer (iTrace) and a double pass (DP) system (OQAS) assessed ocular MTF for 6.0 mm pupil diameters following dilation. Areas under the MTF (AUMTF) and their correlations were analyzed. Stepwise multiple regression analysis assessed factors affecting the differences between iTrace- and OQAS-derived AUMTF for the early cataract group. RESULTS: For both early cataract and control groups, iTrace-derived MTFs were higher than OQAS-derived MTFs across a range of spatial frequencies (P < 0.01). No significant difference between the two groups occurred for iTrace-derived AUMTF, but the early cataract group had significantly smaller OQAS-derived AUMTF than did the control group (P < 0.01). AUMTF determined from both the techniques demonstrated significant correlations with nuclear opacities, higher-order aberrations (HOAs), visual acuity, and contrast sensitivity functions, while the OQAS-derived AUMTF also demonstrated significant correlations with age and cortical opacity grade. The factors significantly affecting the difference between iTrace and OQAS AUMTF were root-mean-squared HOAs (standardized beta coefficient = -0.63, P < 0.01) and age (standardized beta coefficient = 0.26, P < 0.01). CONCLUSIONS: MTFs determined from a iTrace and a DP system (OQAS) differ significantly in early cataractous and normal subjects. Correlations with visual performance were higher for the DP system. OQAS-derived MTF may be useful as an indicator of visual performance in early cataract eyes.

Characterisation of the half-field beam penumbra for a variety of blocking set-ups

Measurements of half-field beam penumbra were taken using EBT2 film for a variety of blocking techniques. It was shown that minimizing the SSD reduces the penumbra as the effects of beam divergence are diminished. The addition of a lead block directly on the surface provides optimal results with a 10-90% penumbra of 0.53 ± 0.02 cm. To resolve the uncertainties encountered in film measurements, future Monte Carlo measurements of halffield penumbras are to be conducted.

Analysis of one-pass block cipher based authenticated encryption schemes

This project analyses and evaluates the integrity assurance mechanisms used in four Authenticated Encryption schemes based on symmetric block ciphers. These schemes are all cross chaining block cipher modes that claim to provide both confidentiality and integrity assurance simultaneously, in one pass over the data. The investigations include assessing the validity of an existing forgery attack on certain schemes, applying the attack approach to other schemes and implementing the attacks to verify claimed probabilities of successful forgeries. For these schemes, the theoretical basis of the attack was developed, the attack algorithm implemented and computer simulations performed for experimental verification.

Electronic-structures of h2o.bf3 and related n-v addition-compounds - a combined eels-ups study in vapor-phase

The detailed electronic structure of the n-v addition compound H2O·BF3 has been investigated for the first time by a combined use of electron energy loss spectroscopy (EELS) and UV photoelectron spectroscopy (UPS) augmented by MO calculations. The calculated molecular orbital energies of H2O·BF3 agree well with the UPS results and have been used to assign the electronic transitions obtained from EELS and to construct an orbital correlation diagram. The Journal of Chemical Physics is copyrighted by The American Institute of Physics.

A fast acting detector for abnormal output voltages of an UPS system

A new method of sensing the abnormal output voltage conditions of a single phase UPS system is presented, which provides the information almost instantaneously, so that a fast load transfer can be initiated. A continuous monitoring of the UPS output instantaneous voltage is used so that any under/over voltage, transients, or waveform distortion present can be detected.

Copyright law and mash-ups: A policy paper

This report provides an analysis of the cultural, policy and legal implications of ‘mash-ups’. This study provides a short history of mash-ups, explaining how the current ‘remix culture’ builds upon a range of creative antecedents and cultural traditions, which valorised appropriation, quotation, and transformation. It provides modern examples of mash-ups, such as sound recordings, musical works, film and artistic works, focusing on works seen on You Tube and other online applications. In particular, it considers - * Literary mash-ups of canonical texts, including Pride and Prejudice and Zombies, The Wind Done Gone, After the Rain, and 60 Years Later; * Artistic mash-ups, highlighting the Obama Hope poster, the ‘Column’ case, and the competition for extending famous album covers; * Geographical mash-ups, most notably, the Google Australia bushfires map; * Musical mash-ups, such as The Grey Album and the work of Girl Talk; * Cinematic mash-ups, including remixes of There Will Be Blood and The Downfall; and This survey provides an analysis of why mash-up culture is valuable. It highlights the range of aesthetic, political, comic, and commercial impulses behind the creation and the dissemination of mash-ups. This report highlights the tensions between copyright law and mash-ups in particular cultural sectors. Second, this report emphasizes the importance of civil society institutions in promoting and defending mash-ups in both copyright litigation and policy debates. It provides a study of key organisations – including: * The Fair Use Project; * The Organization for Transformative Works; * Public Knowledge; * The Electronic Frontier Foundation; and * The Chilling Effects Clearinghouse This report suggests that much can be learnt from this network of organisations in the United States. There is a dearth of comparable legal clinics, advocacy groups, and creative institutions in Australia. As a result, the public interest values of copyright law have only received weak, incidental support from defendant companies – such as Network Ten and IceTV – with other copyright agendas. Third, this report canvasses a succinct model for legislative reform in respect of copyright law and mash-ups. It highlights: * The extent to which mash-ups are ‘tolerated uses’; * The conflicting judicial precedents on substantiality in Australia and the United States; * The debate over copyright exceptions relating to mash-ups and remixes; * The use of the take-down and notice system under the safe harbours regime by copyright owners in respect of mash-ups; * The impact of technological protection measures on mash-ups and remixes; * The possibility of statutory licensing in respect of mash-ups; * The use of Creative Commons licences; * The impact of moral rights protection upon mash-ups; * The interaction between economic and moral rights under copyright law; and * Questions of copyright law, freedom of expression, and political mash-ups.

A combined XPS-UPS-EELS study of nitrogen adsorbed on clean and barium-promoted iron surfaces: The nature of the precursor to dissociation

For N2 on a clean Fe surface, the adsorbed precursor in a parallel orientation becomes predominant around 110 K, while at lower temperatures it coexists with a weakly adsorbed species. On a Ba-promoted Fe surface, however, N2 is present exclusively in the precursor state in the temperature range 80–150 K following moderate exposure. Besides exhibiting a low N-N stretching frequency of 1530 cm−1, the precursor shows a clear separation between the 5σ and 1π levels in the UPS; the precursor dissociates to give a nitridic species around 160 K.

Adsorption Of Methanol On The Surfaces Of Copper-Alloys - Ups And Eels Studies

Methanol adsorbs molecularly on the surfaces of Cu–Pd alloys at low temperatures and transforms to CH3O or CO on warming, depending upon the alloy composition. On oxygen presorbed Cu–Pd alloy surfaces, adsorption of methanol gives rise to H2O and H2CO. CH3OH adsorbed molecularly on the surfaces of Cu–Au alloys and CH3O is formed only at relatively high temperatures.