Transformation of monochromatic waves from deep to shallow water /

"August 1980."

Heavy minerals in beach and stream sediments as indicators of shore processes between Monterey and Los Angeles, California /

"November 1970."

Engineering and ecological evaluation of artificial-island design, Rincon Island, Punta Gorda, California /

"March 1974."

Surf observations and longshore current prediction /

"November 1975."

Coastal changes, eastern Lake Michigan, 1970-1973 /

"October 1976."

Longshore sand transport study at Channel Islands Harbor, California /

"April 1981."

Relation between immersed weight and volume rates of longshore transport /

As presently used, the immersed weight rate, I sub l, is the volume rate, Q, of longshore transport, multiplied by a constant. For use in engineering problems, I sub l must be converted back to the equivalent Q. The I sub l formulation may be important where the unit weight of sand differs significantly from the unit weight of sand at the open-coast sites contributing data to the design curve. Increase in void ratio may result in a 10- to 20-percent increase in actual (as compared to predicted) shoaling volumes where sand accumulates in protected water. Void ratio should be measured in field studies of longshore transport.

A model study of the effect of submerged breakwaters on wave action /

Mode of access: Internet.

Accretion of beach sand behind a detached breakwater.

Mode of access: Internet.

Test of nourishment of the shore by offshore deposition of sand, Long Branch, New Jersey.

Mode of access: Internet.

The source, transportation, and deposition of beach sediment in southern California.

Mode of access: Internet.

Development and field tests of a sampler for suspended sediment in wave action /

Mode of access: Internet.

Coastal processes and beach erosion /

Mode of access: Internet.

Lithofacies distribution in the western Bay of Plenty, New Zealand

Sediment dynamics on a storm-dominated shelf (western Bay of Plenty, New Zealand) were mapped and analyzed using the newly developed multi-sensor benthic profiler MARUM NERIDIS III. An area of 60 km × 7 km between 2 and 35 m water depth was surveyed with this bottom-towed sled equipped with a high-resolution camera for continuous close-up seafloor photography and a CTD with connected turbidity sensor. Here we introduce our approach of using this multi-parameter dataset combined with sidescan sonography and sedimentological analyses to create detailed lithofacies and bedform distribution maps and to derive regional sediment transport patterns. For the assessment of sediment distribution, photographs were classified and their spatial distribution mapped out according to associated acoustic backscatter from a sidescan sonar. This provisional map was used to choose target locations for surficial sediment sampling and subsequent laboratory analysis of grain size distribution and mineralogical composition. Finally, photographic, granulometric and mineralogical facies were combined into a unified lithofacies map and corresponding stratigraphic model. Eight distinct types of lithofacies with seawards increasing grain size were discriminated and interpreted as reworked relict deposits overlain by post-transgressional fluvial sediments. The dominant transport processes in different water depths were identified based on type and orientation of bedforms, as well as bottom water turbidity and lithofacies distribution. Observed bedforms include subaquatic dunes, coarse sand ribbons and sorted bedforms of varying dimensions, which were interpreted as being initially formed by erosion. Under fair weather conditions, sediment is transported from the northwest towards the southeast by littoral drift. During storm events, a current from the southeast to the northweast is induced which is transporting sediment along the shore in up to 35 m water depth. Shorewards oriented cross-shore transport is taking place in up to 60 m water depth and is likewise initiated by storm events. Our study demonstrates how benthic photographic profiling delivers comprehensive compositional, structural and environmental information, which compares well with results obtained by traditional probing methods, but offers much higher spatial resolution while covering larger areas. Multi-sensor benthic profiling enhances the interpretability of acoustic seafloor mapping techniques and is a rapid and economic approach to seabed and habitat mapping especially in muddy to sandy facies.

Evolução da linha de costa da praia da Vagueira

As costas arenosas estão actualmente sujeitas a intensos processos erosivos, resultado tanto de actividades humanas como de processos naturais. Na costa portuguesa, este aspecto é bem evidente pelo recuo da linha de costa, pela diminuição da largura das praias, pela degradação dos sistemas dunares e principalmente, pela proliferação de obras fixas de protecção costeira ao longo da linha de costa. Desde a última metade do século passado que a Vagueira tem sido submetida a um intenso processo erosivo, resultando num acentuado recuo da linha de costa. A principal causa apontada para este facto, é a retenção de sedimentos por parte do molhe Norte do porto de Aveiro, impedindo-os de serem transportados pela deriva litoral. Existem também outras causas que contribuem para o acelerar deste processo, tais como a diminuição da quantidade de sedimentos fornecida pela deriva litoral e a retenção de sedimentos por parte das obras transversais de defesa costeira. Nos dias de hoje, a erosão costeira é um verdadeiro risco, e mesmo com a existência de obras fixas de protecção costeira, o avanço do mar é uma constante. Na Vagueira, a pressão urbana sobre o ecossistema costeiro, alterando as suas morfologias e interferindo no seu dinamismo, tem sido um factor interveniente no processo da erosão neste sector costeiro. Desde 1958, tem-se observado um recuo efectivo da linha de costa na Praia da Vagueira, e hoje em dia já se verifica a quase completa destruição do cordão dunar frontal e a construção de diques arenosos na tentativa de impedir a abertura de um novo canal de ligação entre o canal de Mira e o oceano e de proteger valores naturais irrecuperáveis. A construção da cartografia para cada ano em estudo permitiu a quantificação dos valores médios e absolutos do recuo da linha de costa na Vagueira desde 1958 a 2002. A monitorização da praia da Vagueira entre Outubro de 2002 e Outubro de 2003 permitiu a caracterização da praia emersa e apontar o comportamento geral da área em estudo.