Women demonstrate against animal testing at Revlon

General note: Title and date provided by Bettye Lane.

Women demonstrate against animal testing at Revlon

General note: Title and date provided by Bettye Lane.

The Philippines in the Paper Global Value Chain

This report uses the Duke CGGC Global Value Chain (GVC) framework to examine the role of the Philippines in the global paper industry and identify opportunities for upgrading. The Philippines’ paper sector is a domestically oriented industry that provides significant indirect employment opportunities for wide swaths of workers as well as indirect exports for sectors such as electronics, food and beverage, and cosmetics. However, the country’s overall participation in the paper GVC is limited, with raw material constraints hindering export development. Abaca pulp production, a niche product category that uses the Manila hemp plant to generate specialized outputs such as tea bags and bank notes, is the country’s most dependable export, but even with the export value of abaca pulp approaching an all-time high in 2014, the overall paper industry only generated US$127 million in export revenue, 54th among 193 countries in the world.

Desenvolvimento e caracterização de um sabonete contendo borras de café

Desde da antiguidade que o ser humano se preocupa com a sua aparência externa, em especial com a pele. Para além do desenvolvimento de cosméticos, surgiram também produtos mais complexos, os cosmecêuticos, que diferem dos cosméticos devido a poderem influenciar a função biológica da pele, causando modificações positivas e duráveis. O conceito de sustentabilidade é usado para definir ações e atividades humanas que visam suprir as necessidades atuais dos seres humanos, sem comprometer o futuro das próximas gerações. Ou seja, a sustentabilidade está diretamente relacionada ao desenvolvimento económico e material sem agredir o meio ambiente, utilizando os recursos naturais de forma inteligente para que eles se mantenham no futuro. Seguindo estes parâmetros, a humanidade pode garantir o desenvolvimento sustentável. As borras de café são consideradas como um subproduto alimentar, sem grande reutilização, o que promove danos no impacto ambiental. Por outro lado, as borras de café podem exercer grandes benefícios para a pele, pois são consideradas excelentes exfoliantes naturais com propriedades refirmantes. Os produtos à base de cafeína são aliados no combate à celulite, na estimulação da regeneração celular e da circulação sanguínea, bem como, no rejuvenescimento e revitalização da pele. Este trabalho consistiu no desenvolvimento de um sabonete, contendo borras de café, como forma de reaproveitamento de um subproduto alimentar rico em cafeína, com o intuito de obter produtos com boas propriedades cosméticas e elevada estabilidade física e química. As borras de café foram analisadas em termos da sua estabilidade física e química através de ensaios de estabilidade acelerada por centrifugação, textura, reologia e doseamento do teor de cafeína por HPLC. Os resultados obtidos através do controlo físico-químico dos sabonetes, da determinação do potencial irritante cutâneo e da análise sensorial efectuada em voluntários humanos, demonstraram que é possível preparar sabonetes de borra de café com boa estabilidade físico-química, boa tolerância cutânea e com características sensoriais adequadas, utilizando uma base de sabão constituída pelos ingredientes (INCI): Sodium Palmate, Sodium Palm Kernelate, Aqua (water), Glycerine, Fragância de café, Sodium Chloride, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter (Shea Butter), CI 778911 (Titanium Dioxide), Tetrasodium EDTA, CI 77499, Linalool e à qual foi adicionada 5% de borras de café.

Laparoscopic versus open total mesorectal excision for stage I-III mid and low rectal cancer: a retrospective 5 years analysis

Introduction. Total mesorectal excision (TME) is the cornerstone of a correct surgical therapy for extraperitoneal rectal cancer. Aim of the study is to evaluate our 5 years experience confronting retrospectively laparoscopic (lap) TME in respect to its laparotomic (open) counterpart. Patients and Methods. 30 patients were treated laparoscopically for stage I-III extraperitoneal rectal cancer and retrospectively compared to a homogeneous group, stratified for sex, age, comorbidities and stage of disease. Results. 30 days mortality was zero for both groups, while morbidity was 20% for the lap group and 36.6% for the open group. Mean lymph nodes harvested was 24 ± 12 for the lap group, 26 ± 14 for the open group (p > 0.05). Five years overall and disease free survival was respectively 82.2% and 81.4% in the lap group, 79.9% and 79.6% in the open group, without statistical significance (p>0.05). Discussion. Minimally invasive TME resulted a safe, effective and oncologically adequate procedure when retrospectively compared to its laparotomic counterpart, with 5 years overall survival and disease free survival reaching no statistical significance compared to the open approach, but with all the advantages of the laparoscopy such as less pain and blood loss, faster recovery, less morbidity and better cosmetics. Conclusions. Our study has retrospectively demonstrated that laparoscopic TME is feasible and oncologically effective, even if it remains a complex minimally invasive procedure, requiring adequate skill. More prospective, randomized studies are necessary to define such a procedure as the new gold standard in treatment of stage I-III extraperitoneal rectal cancer.

Reproducing violence: Rihanna, Chris Brown and the aestheticisation of the Ciudad Juarez Femicides.

When Kate and Laura Mulleavy of Rodarte worked with MAC to create their Autumn/Winter 2010 makeup collection and based their ideas on the murdered women of Ciudad Juarez, there was a public and industry outcry which led to the withdrawal of cosmetics with names such as ‘Factory’ ‘Juarez’ and ‘Ghost Town’. Rodarte tapped into the borderland mythologies of Juarez and crated an illusory fantasy world which sought to simultaneously obliterate and venerate the dead women. One eyeshadow, ‘Bordertown’, appears to look like chunks of rotting flesh streaked with blood. The models for their catwalk show had hollow blackened eyes, green-white pallor and lips that had been bloodlessly ‘lip-erased’ with a product specifically designed for the purpose. In Spanish, maquillar is to make up, to assemble. The women in the factories are asked to repeat simple mechanical operations thousands of times a day to make up the products which will be sold by global corporations. At the same time their images are being assembled, made up and aestheticized to create a cosmetic erasure of the crimes which they are subject to. When two American women and a global company make profit from this dangerous cosmetic erasure in order to sell products, the borders between bodies, countries, art and crime become leaky through the act and the illusion of symbiosis between the women of Ciudad Juarez and the products they inspired is threatened by the haunting of exploitation. Since then, the situation has become more complex. Chris Brown got a neck tattoo, based, he says, on the promotional material produced by MAC for the Rodarte sisters campaign. The image, which is of a skull, bears a striking resemblance to the police photographs of his ex, and now current, girlfriend, superstar Rihanna. The controversy over gendered violence, race and exploitation, begun by Rodarte and MAC, came back, haunting, once again. This paper seeks to address these connections, and ask what happens when domestic violence collides with globalism, fashion and murder.

Ability of Gordonia alkanivorans strain 1B for high added value carotenoids production

Currently, carotenoids are valuable bioactive molecules for several industries, such as chemical, pharmaceutical, food and cosmetics, due to their multiple benefits as natural colorants, antioxidants and vitamin precursors. Hence, the increasing interest on these high added-value products has led to the search of alternatives, more cost-effective and with better yields, towards their industrial production. Indeed, microbial metabolism offers a promising option for carotenoids production. Herein it is shown the potential of the dibenzothiophene desulfurizing bacterium Gordonia alkanivorans strain 1B as a high carotenoid-producer microorganism. The novel carotenoids, produced under different culture conditions, were extracted with DMSO and then further analyzed both through spectrophotometry and HPLC. When grown in glucose-sulfate-light, strain 1B was able of achieving 2015 g carotenoids per g DCW in shake-flask assays, with about 60% corresponding to lutein, canthaxanthin and astaxanthin. Further optimization studies open a new focus of research aiming to get a hyper pigment-producer strain that may be applied towards different industrial sectors.

Empreendedorismo tecnológico: modelo de negócios de package point

Mestrado em Gestão e Empreendedorismo

Analysis of N-nitrosames in water using micellar electrokinetic chromatography (MEKC) and development of online and offline methods of extraction and enrichment of neutral polar analytes

Evaluation of the quality of the environment is essential for human wellness as pollutants in trace amounts can cause serious health problem. Nitrosamines are a group of compounds that are considered potential carcinogens and can be found in drinking water (as disinfection byproducts), foods, beverages and cosmetics. To monitor the level of these compounds to minimize daily intakes, fast and reliable analytical techniques are required. As these compounds are relatively highly polar, extraction and enrichment from environmental samples (aqueous) are challenging. Also, the trend of analytical techniques toward the reduction of sample size and minimization of organic solvent use demands new methods of analysis. In light of fulfilling these requirements, a new method of online preconcentration tailored to an electrokinetic chromatography is introduced. In this method, electroosmotic flow (EOF) was suppressed to increase the interaction time between analyte and micellar phase, therefore the only force to mobilize the neutral analytes is the interaction of analyte with moving micelles. In absence of EOF, polarity of applied potential was switched (negative or positive) to force (anionic or cationic) micelles to move toward the detector. To avoid the excessive band broadening due to longer analysis time caused by slow moving micelles, auxiliary pressure was introduced to boost the micelle movement toward the detector using an in house designed and built apparatus. Applying the external auxiliary pressure significantly reduced the analysis times without compromising separation efficiency. Parameters, such as type of surfactants, composition of background electrolyte (BGE), type of capillary, matrix effect, organic modifiers, etc., were evaluated in optimization of the method. The enrichment factors for targeted analytes were impressive, particularly; cationic surfactants were shown to be suitable for analysis of nitrosamines due to their ability to act as hydrogen bond donors. Ammonium perfluorooctanoate (APFO) also showed remarkable results in term of peak shapes and number of theoretical plates. It was shown that the separation results were best when a high conductivity sample was paired with a BGE of lower conductivity. Using higher surfactant concentrations (up to 200 mM SDS) than usual (50 mM SDS) for micellar electrokinetic chromatography (MEKC) improved the sweeping. A new method for micro-extraction and enrichment of highly polar neutral analytes (N-Nitrosamines in particular) based on three-phase drop micro-extraction was introduced and its performance studied. In this method, a new device using some easy-to-find components was fabricated and its operation and application demonstrated. Compared to conventional extraction methods (liquid-liquid extraction), consumption of organic solvents and operation times were significantly lower.

Cyto- and Genotoxicity assessment of manufactured nano cerium dioxide in the A549 cell line

In the past decades the growing application of nanomaterials (NMs) in diverse consumer products has raised various concerns in the field of toxicology. They have been extensively used in a broad range of applications and cover most of the industrial sectors as well as the medicine and the environmental areas. The most common scenarios for human exposure to NMs are occupational, environmental and as consumers and inhalation is the most frequent route of exposure, especially in occupational settings. Cerium dioxide NMs (nano-CeO2) are widely used in a number of applications such as in cosmetics, outdoor paints, wood care products as well as fuel catalysts. For such reason, nano-CeO2 is one of the selected NMs for priority testing within the sponsorship program of the Working Party of Manufactured Nanomaterials of the OECD. In this context, the aim of this study is to assess the safety of nano-CeO2 (NM-212, Joint Research Center Repository) through the characterization of its cytotoxicity and genotoxicity in a human alveolar epithelial cell line. A dispersion of the NM in water plus 0.05% BSA was prepared and sonicated during 16 minutes, according to a standardized protocol. DLS analysis was used to characterize the quality of the NM dispersion in the culture medium. To evaluate the cytotoxicity of nano-CeO2 in the A549 cell line, the colorimetric MTT assay was performed; the capacity of cells to proliferate when exposed to CeO2 was also assessed with the Clonogenic assay. The genotoxicity of this NM was evaluated by the Comet Assay (3 and 24h of exposure) to quantify DNA breaks and the FPG-modified comet assay to assess oxidative DNA damage. The Cytokinesis-Block Micronucleus (CBMN) assay was used to further detect chromosome breaks or loss. The nano-CeO2 particles are spherical, displaying a diameter of 33 nm and 28 m2/g of surface area. The results of the MTT assay did not show any decreased in cells viability following treatment with a dose-range of nano-CeO2 during 24h. Nevertheless, the highest concentrations of this NM were able to significantly reduce the colony forming ability of A549 cells, suggesting that a prolonged exposure may be cytotoxic to these cells. Data from both genotoxicity assays revealed that nano-CeO2 was neither able to induce DNA breaks nor oxidative DNA damage. Likewise, no significant micronucleus induction was observed. Taken together, the present results indicate that this nano-CeO2 is not genotoxic in this alveolar cell line under the tested conditions, although further studies should be performed, e.g., gene mutation in somatic cells and in vivo chromosome damage (rodent micronucleus assay) to ensure its safety to human health.

Piękny czy dobry? Moralny wymiar upiększania ciała

The main purpose of the article is to point outsome relations between beauty and good in contemporary reality. The main question that arises here is as follows: is the relationship of beauty and moral good still relevant? The concept presented in the thesis refers to the ancient idea of kalokagathia. It stated that beauty is inseparable from moral good. As far as this ancient perspective is concerned, it can be treated as the background for contemporary considerations about the main issue of beauty and good. The article refers to the concept of aestheticization by Wolfgang Welsch. He defines aesthetics as the primary guiding value, where as experience and entertainment have become the guidelines for contemporary culture. Moreover, the thesis mentions the concept of the consumer society and new ethics of the relation to the body as it is described by Jean Budrillard. Then the narration of the article focuses on the following problem: in what sense can we talk nowadays about moral motivation for beauty treatments of body? One assumption leads to the case of looking after one’s body. Another point of view mentions the need of harmony which manifests itself in beautiful body. Eventually, the central question emerges whether contemporary practice of beautifying the body can be a part of the concept of the good life or not.

Purificação de C-ficocianina e sua incorporação em nanofibras

C-ficocianina (C-FC) é uma ficobiliproteína, de cor natural azul, com diversas aplicações na indústria alimentícia, farmacêutica e biomédica, dependendo do seu grau específico de pureza, que pode variar de 0,7 a 4,0, com respectivo aumento de seu valor comercial. Essa pureza é alcançada através de diversas técnicas de purificação, que podem ser aplicadas em diferentes sequências. Um destes processos de purificação de proteínas baseia-se na cromatografia de troca iônica, que utiliza trocadores que adsorvem as proteínas como resultado de interações iônicas entre a superfície da proteína e o trocador. Resinas e colunas de leito expandido podem ser utilizadas para aumentar a produtividade dessa técnica. É fundamental conhecer o perfil do processo de adsorção, para melhor aplicá-lo como ferramenta para o design e otimização de parâmetros operacionais. Outra tecnologia para o tratamento de biomoléculas é a ultrafiltração. Esta técnica é aplicável em larga escala, apresenta baixa complexidade de aplicação e pode ser realizada em condições brandas, minimizando o dano para o produto. Para aumentar a estabilidade da C-FC, e facilitar a sua aplicação, podem ser avaliadas técnicas recentes, não exploradas para este fim, como as nanofibras obtidas através do processo de electrospinning. Estas fibras possuem uma área superficial específica extremamente elevada devido a seu pequeno diâmetro. O objetivo deste trabalho foi avaliar parâmetros de adsorção e diferentes técnicas para purificação de C-ficocianina de Spirulina platensis e obter nanofibras poliméricas incorporadas de C-ficocianina. O trabalho foi dividido em quatro artigos. No primeiro artigo, foram avaliados os parâmetros e as isotermas de adsorção de C-ficocianina em resina de troca iônica para leito expandido Streamline® DEAE. Verificou-se que o maior coeficiente de partição foi obtido em pH 7,5, nas temperaturas de 15 e 25 °C. As isotermas de adsorção da Cficocianina foram bem representadas pelos modelos de Langmuir, de Freundlich e de Langmuir-Freundlich, sendo os valores estimados para Qm e Kd obtidos pela isoterma de Langmuir foram, respectivamente, 33,92 mg.mL-1 e 0,123 mg.mL-1, respectivamente. No segundo artigo foi avaliada a purificação de C-FC até grau alimentar, utilizando ultrafiltração (UF). Com a membrana de 50 kDa, identificou-se que somente a temperatura e a aplicação de diferentes ciclos de diafiltração (DF) causaram influência significativa sobre a purificação e recuperação da C-ficocianina. Foram então aplicados o aumento gradativo da quantidade de ciclos, e a diafiltração previamente à ultrafiltração (DF/UF), onde obteve-se um extrato de Cficocianina com pureza de 0,95. No terceiro artigo foram propostos processos de purificação, envolvendo a utilização das diferentes técnicas para obtenção de C-FC com diferentes purezas. Determinou-se que a partir de cromatografia de troca iônica em leito fixo seguido de DF/UF, obtém-se C-FC para uso em cosméticos e a partir de precipitação com sulfato de amônio, e DF/UF obtém-se C-FC para uso em biomarcadores. Com uma sequência de precipitação com sulfato de amônio, DF/UF e cromatografia de troca iônica em leito fixo chega-se a C-FC de grau analítico. No último artigo, C-FC foi incorporada a nanofibras de óxido de polietileno (PEO) através de processo de electrospinning. Foram determinadas a condutividade da solução de C-FC/PEO, a estrutura e comportamento termogravimétrico das nanofibras formadas. Soluções de polímeros com concentração de 6 e 8% proporcionaram a formação de nanofibras com diâmetro médio inferior a 800 nm, homogêneas, sem a presença de gotas. A análise termogravimétrica identificou aumento na resistência térmica da C-FC incorporada nas fibras.

Microfluidic Encapsulation of Pickering Oil Microdroplets into Alginate Microgels for Lipophilic Compound Delivery

Alginate microgels are widely used as delivery systems in food, cosmetics, and pharmaceutical industries for encapsulation and sustained release of hydrophilic compounds and cells. However, the encapsulation of lipophilic molecules inside these microgels remains a great challenge because of the complex oil-core matrix required. The present study describes an original two-step approach allowing the easy encapsulation of several oil microdroplets within alginate microgels. In the first step, stable oil microdroplets were formed by preparing an oil-in-water (O/W) Pickering emulsion. To stabilize this emulsion, we used two solid particles, namely the cotton cellulose nanocrystals (CNC) and calcium carbonate (CaCO3). It was observed that the surface of the oil microdroplets formed was totally covered by a CNC layer, whereas CaCO3 particles were adsorbed onto the cellulose layer. This solid CNC shell efficiently stabilized the oil microdroplets, preventing them from undesired coalescence. In the second step, oil microdroplets resulting from the Pickering emulsion were encapsulated within alginate microgels using microfluidics. Precisely, the outermost layer of oil microdroplets composed of CaCO3 particles was used to initiate alginate gelation inside the microfluidic device, following the internal gelation mode. The released Ca2+ ions induced the gel formation through physical cross-linking with alginate molecules. This innovative and easy to carry out two-step approach was successfully developed to fabricate monodisperse alginate microgels of 85 pm in diameter containing around 12 oil microdroplets of 15 mu m in diameter. These new oil-core alginate microgels represent an attractive system for encapsulation of lipophilic compounds such as vitamins, aroma compounds or anticancer drugs that could be applied in various domains including food, cosmetics, and medical applications.

Caracterização físico-química e efeitos de frações polissacarídicas da alga amansia multifida na coagulação, inflamação, radicais livres e viabilidade celular

Galactans are polysaccharides sulfated present in the cell wall of red algae. Carrageenans are galactans well known in the food industry as gelling polysaccharides and for induce inflammatory process in rodents as animal model. The extraction of polysaccharides from A. multifida has been carried out by proteolysis and precipitation in different volumes of acetone, which produced three fractions (F1, F2, and FT). Chemical and physical analyses revealed that these fractions are sulfated galactan predominantly. Results of the antioxidant activity assays showed that all of these fractions have antioxidant activity and that was associated with sulfate content of the analysis of reducing power and total antioxidant capacity. However, these fractions were not effective against lipid peroxidation. The fraction FT presented higher activity on the APTT test at 200 μg (> 240 s). The assessment of the hemolytic activity showed that the FT fraction has the best activity, increasing lyses by the complement system to 42.3% (50 μg) (p< 0,001). The fraction FT showed the best yield, anticoagulant and hemolytic activity between the three fractions and therefore it was choose for the in vivo studies. The Inflammation assessment using the FT fraction (50 mg / kg MB) showed that the cellular migration and the IL-6 production increased 670.1% (p< 0,001) and 531.8% (p< 0,001), respectively. These results confirmed its use as an inflammation inducer in animal model. Cytotoxicity assay results showed that all fractions have toxic effects on 3T3 and HeLa cells after exposition of 48 hours, except when 100 μg for both F1 and FT were used. These results arise the discussion whether these polysaccharides it should be used as additive in foods, cosmetics and medicines.