Elisabet Eliasberg writing in her first American home after fleeing Hitler's Austria; 73 Payson Avenue, New York City Portraits Women

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Writing fashion’s future: the gods and monsters of the Anthropocene

This paper identifies two narratives of the Anthropocene and explores how they play out in the realm of future-looking fashion production. Each narrative draws on mythic comparisons to gods and monsters to express humanity’s dilemmas, albeit from different perspectives. The first is a Malthusian narrative of collapse and scarcity, brought about by the monstrous, unstoppable nature of human technology set loose on the natural world. In this vein, philosopher Slavoj Zizek (2010) draws on Biblical analogies, likening ecological crisis to one of the four horsemen of the apocalypse. To find a myth to suit the present times, novelist A.S Byatt (2011) proposes Ragnarök, a Norse myth in which the gods destroy themselves. In contrast, the second narrative is one of technological cornucopia. Stewart Brand (2009, 27), self-described ‘eco-pragmatist’ writes, ‘we are as gods and we have to get good at it’. In his view, human technologies offer the only hope to mitigating the problems caused by human technology – Brand suggests harnessing nuclear power, bioengineering of crops and the geoengineering of the planet as the way forward. Similarly, the French philosopher Bruno Latour (2012, 274), exhorts us to “love our monsters”, likening our technologies to Doctor Frankenstein’s monster – set loose upon the world, and then reviled by his creator. For both Brand and Latour, human technology may be monstrous, but it must also be turned toward solutions. Within this schema, hopeful visions of the future of fashion are similarly divided. In the techno-enabled cornucopian future, the fashion industry embraces wearable technology, speed and efficiency. Technologies such as waterless dyeing, 3D printing and self-cleaning garments shift fashion into a new era of cleaner production. Meanwhile, in the narrative of scarcity, a more cautious approach sees fashion return to a new localism and valuing of the hand-made in a time of shrinking resources. Through discussion of future-looking fashion designers, brands, and activists, this paper explores how they may align along a spectrum to one of these two grand narratives of the future. The paper will discuss how these narratives may unconsciously shape the perspective of both producers and users around the fashion of today and the fashion of tomorrow. This paper poses the question: what stories can be written for fashion’s future in the Anthropocene, and are they fated, or can they be re-written?

Albert Einstein writing; California Portraits; Men

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Albert Einstein writing at desk Portraits; Men

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Automatic Lameness Detection in a Milking Robot : Instrumentation, measurement software, algorithms for data analysis and a neural network model

The aim of this thesis is to develop a fully automatic lameness detection system that operates in a milking robot. The instrumentation, measurement software, algorithms for data analysis and a neural network model for lameness detection were developed. Automatic milking has become a common practice in dairy husbandry, and in the year 2006 about 4000 farms worldwide used over 6000 milking robots. There is a worldwide movement with the objective of fully automating every process from feeding to milking. Increase in automation is a consequence of increasing farm sizes, the demand for more efficient production and the growth of labour costs. As the level of automation increases, the time that the cattle keeper uses for monitoring animals often decreases. This has created a need for systems for automatically monitoring the health of farm animals. The popularity of milking robots also offers a new and unique possibility to monitor animals in a single confined space up to four times daily. Lameness is a crucial welfare issue in the modern dairy industry. Limb disorders cause serious welfare, health and economic problems especially in loose housing of cattle. Lameness causes losses in milk production and leads to early culling of animals. These costs could be reduced with early identification and treatment. At present, only a few methods for automatically detecting lameness have been developed, and the most common methods used for lameness detection and assessment are various visual locomotion scoring systems. The problem with locomotion scoring is that it needs experience to be conducted properly, it is labour intensive as an on-farm method and the results are subjective. A four balance system for measuring the leg load distribution of dairy cows during milking in order to detect lameness was developed and set up in the University of Helsinki Research farm Suitia. The leg weights of 73 cows were successfully recorded during almost 10,000 robotic milkings over a period of 5 months. The cows were locomotion scored weekly, and the lame cows were inspected clinically for hoof lesions. Unsuccessful measurements, caused by cows standing outside the balances, were removed from the data with a special algorithm, and the mean leg loads and the number of kicks during milking was calculated. In order to develop an expert system to automatically detect lameness cases, a model was needed. A probabilistic neural network (PNN) classifier model was chosen for the task. The data was divided in two parts and 5,074 measurements from 37 cows were used to train the model. The operation of the model was evaluated for its ability to detect lameness in the validating dataset, which had 4,868 measurements from 36 cows. The model was able to classify 96% of the measurements correctly as sound or lame cows, and 100% of the lameness cases in the validation data were identified. The number of measurements causing false alarms was 1.1%. The developed model has the potential to be used for on-farm decision support and can be used in a real-time lameness monitoring system.

Artist Rafaello Busoni seated and writing at a desk; Berlin.

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Staff member writing at desk; Juedische Winterhilfe der Juedische Gemeinde; Berlin Jewish Institutions

"Leitung und Mitarbeiter der Juedischen Winterhilfe gratulieren herzlich zum 70. Beburtstage"

Felicia Lachmann Mosse seated at writing desk; Mosse family residence; Berlin Portraits Women

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Robust automatic face clustering in news video

Clustering identities in a video is a useful task to aid in video search, annotation and retrieval, and cast identification. However, reliably clustering faces across multiple videos is challenging task due to variations in the appearance of the faces, as videos are captured in an uncontrolled environment. A person's appearance may vary due to session variations including: lighting and background changes, occlusions, changes in expression and make up. In this paper we propose the novel Local Total Variability Modelling (Local TVM) approach to cluster faces across a news video corpus; and incorporate this into a novel two stage video clustering system. We first cluster faces within a single video using colour, spatial and temporal cues; after which we use face track modelling and hierarchical agglomerative clustering to cluster faces across the entire corpus. We compare different face recognition approaches within this framework. Experiments on a news video database show that the Local TVM technique is able effectively model the session variation observed in the data, resulting in improved clustering performance, with much greater computational efficiency than other methods.

Transitioning from university to the workplace: Stakeholder perceptions of academic and professional writing demands

This study provides a detailed insight into the changing writing demands from the last year of university study to the first year in the workforce of engineering and accounting professionals. The study relates these to the demands of the writing component of IELTS, which is increasingly used for exit testing. The number of international and local students whose first language is not English and who are studying in English-medium universities has increased significantly in the past decade. Many of these students aim to start working in the country they studied in; however, some employers have suggested that graduates seeking employment have insufficient language skills. This study provides a detailed insight into the changing writing demands from the last year of university study to the first year in the workforce of engineering and accounting professionals (our two case study professions). It relates these to the demands of the writing component of IELTS, which is increasingly used for exit or professional entry testing, although not expressly designed for this purpose. Data include interviews with final year students, lecturers, employers and new graduates in their first few years in the workforce, as well as professional board members. Employers also reviewed both final year assignments, as well as IELTS writing samples at different levels. Most stakeholders agreed that graduates entering the workforce are underprepared for the writing demands in their professions. When compared with the university writing tasks, the workplace writing expected of new graduates was perceived as different in terms of genre, the tailoring of a text for a specific audience, and processes of review and editing involved. Stakeholders expressed a range of views on the suitability of the use of academic proficiency tests (such as IELTS) as university exit tests and for entry into the professions. With regard to IELTS, while some saw the relevance of the two writing tasks, particularly in relation to academic writing, others questioned the extent to which two timed tasks representing limited genres could elicit a representative sample of the professional writing required, particularly in the context of engineering. The findings are discussed in relation to different test purposes, the intersection between academic and specific purpose testing and the role of domain experts in test validation.

Automatic detection of diabetic foot complications with infrared thermography by asymmetric analysis

Early identification of diabetic foot complications and their precursors is essential in preventing their devastating consequences, such as foot infection and amputation. Frequent, automatic risk assessment by an intelligent telemedicine system might be feasible and cost effective. Infrared thermography is a promising modality for such a system. The temperature differences between corresponding areas on contralateral feet are the clinically significant parameters. This asymmetric analysis is hindered by (1) foot segmentation errors, especially when the foot temperature and the ambient temperature are comparable, and by (2) different shapes and sizes between contralateral feet due to deformities or minor amputations. To circumvent the first problem, we used a color image and a thermal image acquired synchronously. Foot regions, detected in the color image, were rigidly registered to the thermal image. This resulted in 97.8% ± 1.1% sensitivity and 98.4% ± 0.5% specificity over 76 high-risk diabetic patients with manual annotation as a reference. Nonrigid landmark-based registration with Bsplines solved the second problem. Corresponding points in the two feet could be found regardless of the shapes and sizes of the feet. With that, the temperature difference of the left and right feet could be obtained.

Automatic phonetic transcription of Tamil in Roman script

Simple formalized rules are proposed for automatic phonetic transcription of Tamil words into Roman script. These rules are syntax-directed and require a one-symbol look-ahead facility and hence easily automated in a digital computer. Some suggestions are also put forth for the linearization of Tamil script for handling these by modern machinery.

Automatic Path Planning and Control Design for Autonomous Landing of UAVs using Dynamic Inversion

In this paper a nonlinear control has been designed using the dynamic inversion approach for automatic landing of unmanned aerial vehicles (UAVs), along with associated path planning. This is a difficult problem because of light weight of UAVs and strong coupling between longitudinal and lateral modes. The landing maneuver of the UAV is divided into approach, glideslope and flare. In the approach UAV aligns with the centerline of the runway by heading angle correction. In glideslope and flare the UAV follows straight line and exponential curves respectively in the pitch plane with no lateral deviations. The glideslope and flare path are scheduled as a function of approach distance from runway. The trajectory parameters are calculated such that the sink rate at touchdown remains within specified bounds. It is also ensured that the transition from the glideslope to flare path is smooth by ensuring C-1 continuity at the transition. In the outer loop, the roll rate command is generated by assuring a coordinated turn in the alignment segment and by assuring zero bank angle in the glideslope and flare segments. The pitch rate command is generated from the error in altitude to control the deviations from the landing trajectory. The yaw rate command is generated from the required heading correction. In the inner loop, the aileron, elevator and rudder deflections are computed together to track the required body rate commands. Moreover, it is also ensured that the forward velocity of the UAV at the touch down remains close to a desired value by manipulating the thrust of the vehicle. A nonlinear six-DOF model, which has been developed from extensive wind-tunnel testing, is used both for control design as well as to validate it.

Creative writing: Literature review and evidence-based research

There is growing evidence, especially in the USA and UK, that creative writing can form an important part of the recovery experience of people affected by severe mental illness. In this chapter, I consider theoretical models that explain how creative writing might contribute to recovery, and discuss the potential for creative writing in psychosocial rehabilitation. It is argued that the rehabilitation benefits of creative writing might be optimized through focus on process and technique in writing, rather than expression or content alone, and that consequently, the involvement of professional writers might be important. I will explore the recent history of theoretical frameworks and explanatory models that link creative writing and recovery, and examine such empirical evidence as is available on the contribution of creative writing to recovery from severe mental illness.

Creative writing: A practice-based account of designing and facilitating life-writing workshops for a group With severe mental illness

This chapter is based on the experience and findings of a pilot project developed to investigate the feasibility of providing a writing workshop for people participating in psychosocial rehabilitation programmes provided by a non-government agency in Brisbane, Queensland, Australia. It was a qualitative study, making use of observational data, interviews with participants, and informal reports. We did not seek to test theoretical models concerning the link between creative writing and recovery through the pilot project, but rather to evaluate the immediate impact of a writing workshop conducted in the manner outlined in the preceding chapter by Philip Neilsen (chapter 7).