Silk purse, sow’s ear : transforming second-Hand clothing into luxury fashion through craft practice

There is more apparel being created than ever before in history. The unsustainable production of materials and the clothing and textile waste that contributes annually to landfill, an estimated 500 000 tonnes of clothing per year in the UK (Gray, 2012) are significant issues inspiring the practice of Australian fashion designers, Carla van Lunn and Carla Binotto. While the contemporary fashion industry is built upon a production and consumption model that is younger than the industrial revolution, the traditions of costume, craft, and bodily adornment are ancient practices. Binotto and van Lunn believe that the potential for sustainable fashion practice lies outside the current industrial manufacturing model. This case study will discuss their fashion label, Maison Briz Vegas, and examine how recycling and traditional craft practices can be used to address the problem of clothing waste and offer an alternative idea of value in fashion and materials, addressing the indicative conference theme, Craft as Sustainability Activism in Practice. “Maison Briz Vegas”, a play on the notion of French luxury and the designers’ new world and sub-tropical home town, Brisbane, is an experimental and craft-based fashion label that uses second-hand cotton T-shirts and wool sweaters as primary materials to create designer fashion. The first collection, titled “The Wasteland”, was conceived and created in Paris in 2011, where designer Carla van Lunn had been living and working for several years. The collection was inspired by the precariousness of the global economy and concerns about climate change. The mountains of discarded clothing found at flea markets provided a textile resource from which van Lunn created a recycled hand-crafted fashion collection with an activist message and was shown to buyers and press during Paris Fashion Week. The label has since become a collaboration with fellow Australian designer Carla Binotto. The craft processes employed in Maison Briz Vegas’ up-cycled fashion collections include original hand block-printing, hand embroidery, quilting and patchwork. Taking an artisanal and slow approach, the designers work to create a hand touched imperfect style in a fashion market flooded with digital printing and fast mass-produced garments. The recycling extends to garment fastenings and embellishments, with discarded jar lids and bottle tops being used as buttons and within embroidery. This process transforms the material and aesthetic value of cheap and generic second-hand clothing and household waste. Maison Briz Vegas demonstrates the potential for craft and design to be an interface for environmental activism within the world of fashion. Presenting garments that are both high-design and thoughtfully recycled in a significant fashion context, such as Paris Fashion Week, Maison Briz Vegas has been able to engage a high-profile luxury fashion audience which has not traditionally considered sustainable or eco practices as relevant or desirable in themselves. The designers are studying how to apply their production model on a greater scale in order to fill commercial orders and reach a wider audience whilst maintaining the element of bespoke, limited edition, and slow hand-craft within their work.

Sphingosine-1-phosphate, a novel second messenger involved in cell growth regulation and signal transduction, affects growth and invasiveness of human breast cancer cells

This review will focus on the role of sphingosine and its phosphorylated derivative sphingosine-1-phosphate (SPP) in cell growth regulation and signal transduction. We will show that many of the effects attributed to sphingosine in quiescent Swiss 3T3 fibroblasts are mediated via its conversion to SPP. We propose that SPP has appropriate properties to function as an intracellular second messenger based on the following: it elicits diverse cellular responses; it is rapidly produced from sphingosine by a specific kinase and rapidly degraded by a specific lyase; its concentration is low in quiescent cells but increases rapidly and transiently in response to the growth factors, fetal calf serum (FCS) and platelet derived growth factor (PDGF); it releases Ca2+ from internal sources in an InsP3-independent manner; and finally, it may link sphingolipid signaling pathways to cellular ras-mediated signaling pathways by elevating phosphatidic acid levels. The effects of this novel second messenger on growth, differentiation and invasion of human breast cancer cells will be discussed. © 1994 Kluwer Academic Publishers.

Selective involvement of TIMP-2 in the second activational cleavage of pro-MMP-2 : refinement of the pro-MMP-2 activation mechanism

A tissue inhibitor of metalloproteinases-2 (TIMP-2)-independent mechanism for generating the first activational cleavage of pro-matrix metalloproteinase-2 (MMP-2) was identified in membrane type-1 MMP (MT1-MMP)-transfected MCF-7 cells and confirmed in TIMP-2-deficient fibroblasts. In contrast, the second MMP-2-activational step was found to be TIMP-2 dependent in both systems. MMP-2 hemopexin C-terminal domain was found to be critical for the first step processing, confirming a need for membrane tethering. We propose that the intermediate species of MMP-2 forms the well-established trimolecular complex (MT1-MMP/TIMP-2/MMP-2) for further TIMP-2-dependent autocatalytic cleavage to the fully active species. This alternate mechanism may supplement the traditional TIMP-2-mediated first step mechanism.

Second-harmonic generation from biological tissues : effect of excitation wavelength

We report on the measurement of second-harmonic signals from hyperplastic parenchyma and stroma in malignant human prostate tissue under femtosecond pulsed illumination in the wavelength range from 730 to 870 nm. In particular, the relationship of the second-harmonic generation to the excitation wavelength is measured. The result in these two regions behaves considerably differently and thus provides a possible indicator for identifying tissue components and malignancy.

Dependence of second-harmonic signals generated in malignant human prostate tissue on excitation wavelength

The dependence of second harmonic generation (SHG) from hyperplastic parenchyma and stroma in maligant human prostate tissue on excitation wavelengths was measured. A femtosecond pulsed laser, a scanning microscope and a spectrograph were used to perform the measurements. The spectra were measured under excitation power of 10 mW at excitation wavelengths of 730 nm, 750 nm, 800 nm, 850 nm and 890 nm. Analysis suggested that the SHG in prostate tissue is highly structured and wavelength dependent signifying its ability to be used as an indicator for recognizing tissue components, ultrastructures, micro-environments and diseases.

Crime, Justice and Social Democracy: Proceedings of the Second International Conference, 2013, volume 2

The refereed papers contained in this volume of conference proceedings were among those presented at the 2nd International Conference on Crime, Justice and Social Democracy, hosted by the Crime and Justice Research Centre, Faculty of Law, QUT, from 8 – 11 July 2013. The conference attracted an impressive list of speakers from Australasia, Europe, North America and Latin America. These seven papers can be viewed at the Crime and Justice Research Centre’s website at http://crimejusticeconference.com/publications/ as can Volume 1 representing another 26 selected papers from the conference. As with the papers contained in the first volume, this set of papers raises important questions about the links between crime, justice and social democracy, and continues the contribution that the Crime and Justice Research Centre makes towards engaging with these topics. We thank all those who submitted papers for review for this second volume of proceedings, as well as the peer reviewers for taking the time to review the papers, often within very tight timelines.

Resonant generation of the second harmonic of a surface wave on a plasma-metal boundary

The process of resonant generation of the second harmonic of the surface wave, propagating along the external magnetic field at the plasma-metal boundary is considered. The periodic process of the energy exchange between the first and the second harmonics of the wave is investigated as well. It is shown that the process under study is periodic one. The analytical expressions are obtained and numerical estimations are presented for characteristic time of nonlinear energy exchange. The self-action effect of main frequency wave is account for harmonics interaction. It is shown that the effect leads to nonlinear phenomena attenuation, which expresses in narrowing possible value interval of harmonics amplitudes during energy exchange process and in increasing the nonlinear interaction time.

Resonant second harmonics generation of the submillimeter surface wave in the semiconductor superlattice bounded by a metal

In this study, the process of the resonant second harmonics generation of the submillimeter (SM), which is of interest for design of the semiconductor frequency multipliers is evaluated. Particularly, the possibility to use the semiconductor superlattice-metal structures as an effective second harmonics generator is demonstrated.

Tuning second order cyclostationarity parameters for the diagnostics of rolling element bearings

Failures on rolling element bearings usually originate from cracks that are detectable even in their early stage of propogation by properly analyzing vibration signals measured in the proximity of the bearing. Due to micro-slipping in the roller-races contact, damage-induced vibration signals belong to the family of quasi-periodic signals with a strong second order cyclostationary component. Cyclic coherence and its integrated form are widely considered as the most suitable tools for bearing fault diagnostics and their theoretical bases have been already consolidated. This paper presents how to correctly set the parameters of the cyclostationary analysis tool to be implemented in an automatable algorithm. In the first part of the paper some general guidelines are provided for the specific application. These considerations are further verified, applying cyclostationary tools to data collected in an experimental campaign on a specific test-rig.

Health Law in Australia [Second Edition]

Health Law in Australia is the country’s leading text in this area and was the first book to deal with health law on a comprehensive national basis. In this important field that continues to give rise to challenges for society Health Law in Australia takes a logical, structured approach to explain the breadth of this area of law across all Australian jurisdictions. By covering all the major areas in this diverse field, Health Law in Australia enhances the understanding of the discipline as a whole. Beginning with an exploration of the general principles of health law, including chapters on “Negligence”, “Children and Consent to Medical Treatment”, and “Medical Confidentiality and Patient Privacy”, the book goes on to consider beginning-of-life and end-of-life issues before concluding with chapters on emerging areas in health law, such as biotechnology, genetic technologies and medical research. The contributing authors are national leaders who are specialists in these areas of health law and who can share with readers the results of their research. Health Law in Australia has been written for both legal and health audiences and is essential reading for undergraduate and postgraduate students, researchers and scholars in the disciplines of law, health and medicine, as well as health and legal practitioners, government departments and bodies in the health area, and private health providers.

Determinants of second row passenger comfort

China is becoming an increasingly important automotive market. Customer’s vehicle usage, preferences and requirements differ from traditional western markets in a number of aspects – rear seat usage rates are higher, vehicles are used for business purposes as well as for private transport and rear seat usage is generally more important to Chinese customers compared to their western counterparts. The purpose of this project is to dimension and investigate these differences from an ergonomics perspective and use these results to guide the design of future products. The focus for this project will be specific to vehicles in the CD segment. More specifically, this project focuses on the second row ‘ambience’. Ambience refers to the global feeling perceived by second row passengers, and the main factors contributing to ambience are: ingress and egress comfort, seat comfort, roominess, and ease of use of the controls. In order to investigate the aforementioned parameters, an experimental study has been conducted in Shanghai, China. This experiment involved 80 healthy Chinese CD- and D-car customers. These subjects were asked to evaluate different features present in the second row environment of three different cars: A Ford Mondeo, Toyota Camry and Mercedes S-class. Various data has been collected during this experiment: First, the anthropometric dimensions of the subjects have been measured. The subjects were also asked to fill a questionnaire about demographics, their own car usage, and their perception of a various number of features present in the three tested cars. A great amount of technical data was also collected. The first part of this report presents the results given by the questionnaires. It includes Chinese demographics, vehicle usage habits, and the subjective perception of the features present in the tested cars. It also presents the results of the anthropometric measurements. This gives a first insight into Chinese customers’ habits and preferences. The second part deals with the technical data recorded during the experiment: second row seat adjustment ranges, roominess, optimal location of controls, and pressure mapping analysis. Analysis of technical data allows a deeper understanding of the factors contributing to comfort and ambience perception. Using the technical data together with the comfort ratings given by the subjects in the questionnaire, recommendations on several design parameters were provided. Finally, an experimental study of car ingress-egress has been conducted in a University laboratory controlled environment. During this study, the ingress and egress motion of 20 customers from Chinese origin was recorded using a motion capture system. The last part of this report presents the protocol and data processing that led to building an ingress-egress motion database that was provided to Ford.

Second skin : fashion design education to enhance sun safety awareness toolkit

A toolkit designed to facilitate greater understanding of the role of fashion design in society and the value of design thinking skills in solving wicked challenges. The program uses fashion as a catalyst to provide a framework for young people to address a systemic health issue (skin cancer), and in doing so, obtain a more acute awareness of the sun safety message (alternative to a scare campaign.