Editorial

Malone, C.A.T., S.K.F. Stoddart, and N. James, Editorial. Antiquity, (Topics Include Antiquity’s first century, landscapes, textiles, Philip Barker, Barri Jones).

TEXTILE TECHNOLOGIES IN CONCRETE ENVIRONMENTS."

Girli Concrete is a cross disciplinary funded research project based in the University of Ulster involving a textile designer/ researcher, an architect/ academic and a concrete manufacturing firm.
Girli Concrete brings together concrete and textile technologies, testing ideas of
concrete as textile and textile as structure. It challenges the perception of textiles as only the ‘dressing’ to structure and instead integrates textile technologies into the products of building products. Girli Concrete uses ‘low tech’ methods of wet and dry concrete casting in combination with ‘high tech’ textile methods using laser cutting, etching, flocking and digital printing. Whilst we have been inspired by recent print and imprint techniques in architectural cladding, Girli Concrete is generated within the depth of the concrete’s cement paste “skin”, bringing the trades and crafts of both industries together with innovative results.
Architecture and Textiles have an odd, somewhat unresolved relationship. Confined to a subservient role in architecture, textiles exist chiefly within the categories of soft furnishings and interior design. Girli Concrete aims to mainstream tactility in the production of built environment products, raising the human and environmental interface to the same specification level as the technical. This paper will chart:
The background and wider theoretical concerns to the project.
The development of Girli Concrete, highlighting the areas where craft becomes
art and art becomes science in the combination of textile and concrete
technologies.
The challenges of identifying funding to support such combination technologies,
working methods and philosophies.
The challenges of generating and sustaining practice within an academic
research environment
The outcomes to date

‘Reading Aran knitting: stitches, text andinterpretation’

The densely textured surfaces of Aran knitting seem to invite interpretation. They have been ‘read’ as identity documents, family trees, references to natural and spiritual phenomena, or even maps. This paper traces the search for meaning in Aran knitting, examining how these stitch patterns have been ‘read’ in the contexts of tourism, fine art and fashion. As Jo Turney (2013:55) argues, the idea of knitted textiles as communicative media in non-literate societies ‘consigns the garments to a preindustrial era of more rural and simple times’, situating them in an imagined state of ‘stasis’. Thus the ways in which Aran stitches are ‘read’ sometimes obscure the processes through which they are ‘written’, whether in terms of individual authorship and creativity, or in terms of their manufacture. Regardless of the historical veracity of claims that particular Aran stitch patterns index features of the social, natural or spiritual worlds, analysing the ways they have been ‘read’ in the context of comparable textile traditions, other crafts which have taken on ‘heritage’ souvenir status, and Irish national identity, reveals how Aran knitting has performed broader communicative functions (see Sonja Andrew 2008), which continue to be subverted and elaborated by fine artists, and translated into couture and mass market fashion products.

The Aran jumper: Crafting a Transatlantic Heritage

The garment we now recognise as the Aran jumper emerged as an international symbol of Ireland from the twin twentieth century transatlantic flows of migration and tourism. Its power as a heritage object derives from: 1) the myth commonly associated with the object, in which the corpse of a drowned fisherman is identified and claimed by his family due to the stitch patterns of his jumper (Pádraig Ó Síochain 1962; Annette Lynch and Mitchell Strauss 2014); 2) the meanings attached to those stitch patterns, which have been read, for example, as genealogical records, representations of the natural landscape and references to Christian and pre-Christian ‘Celtic’ religion (Heinz Kiewe 1967; Catherine Nash 1996); and 3) booming popular interest in textile heritage on both sides of the Atlantic, fed by the reframing of domestic crafts such as knitting as privileged leisure pursuits (Rachel Maines 2009; Jo Turney 2009). The myth of the drowned fisherman plays into transatlantic migration narratives of loss and reclamation, promising a shared heritage that needs only to be decoded. The idea of the garment’s surface acting as text (or map) situates it within a preliterate idyll of romantic primitivism, while obscuring the circumstances of its manufacture. The contemporary resurgence in home textile production as recreation, mediated through transnational online networks, creates new markets for heritage textile products while attracting critical attention to the processes through which such objects, and mythologies, are produced. The Aran jumper’s associations with kinship, domesticity and national character make it a powerful tool in the promotion of ancestral (or genealogical) tourism, through marketing efforts such as The Gathering 2013. Nash’s (2010; 2014) work demonstrates the potential for such touristic encounters to disrupt and enrich public conceptions of heritage, belonging and relatedness. While the Aran jumper has been used to commodify a simplistic sense of mutuality between Ireland and north America, it carries complex transatlantic messages in both directions.

Estudio para el mejoramiento de seis centrales de climatización de la sala de tejedura de 4161.62 m2, que cuenta con 76 telares para tejido plano, de la fábrica textil "La Internacional"

En el área textil, sea esta tejeduría, hilandería, tintorería, o acabados de tela intervienen una infinidad de factores externos, relacionados con el tipo de material a procesar, se necesita tener un control riguroso de los factores externos tales como humedad relativa (HR) y temperatura, por lo que en el diseño de un área específica de cualquier planta textil, en este caso tejeduría, se invierte mucho dinero para garantizar condiciones estables de climatización tanto para el proceso como para el recurso humano.

Colagens têxteis: em busca de um design sustentável

Os desafios dos designers nos dias de hoje são inúmeros, sendo um deles o de desenvolver produtos que atendam ao mercado sem deixar de lado as preocupações com a sustentabilidade, seja ambiental, sócio-ética ou econômica. Assim sendo, a própria disputa para alcançar novos patamares de destaque no mercado também fez proliferar novas tecnologias de produção sustentável como um fator diferenciador nos dias de hoje que, para além de preservar a natureza, conquista uma larga faixa de clientes sensíveis a este tipo de preocupações. É objetivo deste trabalho a criação de produtos de design de moda e decoração e sua verificação enquanto design sustentável. Neste contexto, enquadra-se este trabalho que visa desenvolver produtos de moda e decoração realizados com a técnica da colagem têxtil, resultando assim, em produtos inovadores, únicos, intemporais e com design. A presente investigação desenvolveu-se em parceria com o Banco de Vestuário de Caxias do Sul, que forneceu dados para o estudo do setor têxtil e levantamento dos resíduos da indústria têxtil da região para caracterização do setor, além de disponibilizar os resíduos têxteis que serviram de base para a criação de produtos de moda e de decoração mais sustentáveis. Para a criação das superfícies têxteis coladas foram desenvolvidas amostras com testes de temperaturas e tempos para verificar a combinação que mais se adequa a cada tipo de matéria-prima. Além de fazer uso destes resíduos, a investigação contou com o auxílio de mão-de-obra de artesãs que, por sua vez, foram capacitadas com a técnica da colagem têxtil através de dois workshops. Após esta etapa, para fazer a análise dos níveis de sustentabilidade dos produtos, utilizou-se o Sustainability Design Orienting Toolkit (SDO) que é um conjunto de ferramentas que visa a orientação dos designers no desenvolvimento de produtos em termos de sustentabilidade ambiental, sócio-ética e econômica.

Technology-related strategies in labour-intensive industries from Southern European Regions: consequences for local employment

Tese dout., Economia, Universidade do Algarve, 2010

Technical Vocabulary and Medieval Text Types: A Semantic Field Approach

This paper seeks to discover in what sense we can classify vocabulary items as technical terms in the later medieval period. In order to arrive at a principled categorization of technicality, distribution is taken as a diagnostic factor: vocabulary shared across the widest range of text types may be assumed to be both prototypical for the semantic field, but also the most general and therefore least technical terms since lexical items derive at least part of their meaning from context, a wider range of contexts implying a wider range of senses. A further way of addressing the question of technicality is tested through the classification of the lexis into semantic hierarchies: in the terms of componential analysis, having more components of meaning puts a term lower in the semantic hierarchy and flags it as having a greater specificity of sense, and thus as more technical. The various text types are interrogated through comparison of the number of levels in their hierarchies and number of lexical items at each level within the hierarchies. Focusing on the vocabulary of a single semantic field, DRESS AND TEXTILES, this paper investigates how four medieval text types (wills, sumptuary laws, petitions, and romances) employ technical terminology in the establishment of the conventions of their genres.

O Impacto do project finance nas empresas portuguesas no setor têxtil

Dissertação para a obtenção do Grau de Mestre em Contabilidade e Finanças Orientador: Mestre Adalmiro Álvaro Malheiro de Castro Andrade Pereira

Contribuição para o estudo dos subprodutos de uma ETAR: gradados e areias

Trabalho Final de Mestrado para obtenção do grau de Mestre em Engenharia Civil, na Área de Especialização de Hidráulica

Desenvolvimento de Têxteis com Capacidade de Libertação de Agentes Funcionais

Mestrado em Engenharia Química - Ramo Tecnologias de Protecção Ambiental

El bacalao portugués

Relatório de Estágio apresentado ao Instituto de Contabilidade e Administração do Porto para a obtenção do grau de Mestre em Empreendedorismo e Internacionalização, sob orientação das docentes do ISCAP Mestre Anabela Paula Aferes e da Prof.ª Doutora Maria Clara.

International partner selection Indian technical textile market

Due to a combination of a vast agricultural industry and a tremendously growing technical textile industry, Ludvig Svensson identified India as target market for possible expansion through domestic production and supply. However, Svensson needed additional information about the industry structure and key players. Therefore, this project focused on a detailed analysis of the technical textile market and its players by following the international partner selection process. Thereby, five key players were identified as potential partners, as well as the need for additional research to determine alternative entry modes, as the market does not currently seem to be receptive for Svensson products.