Garden of Shrinking Violets

Description of the work Garden of Shrinking Violets is a collection of six half scale garments and three illustrations, continuing the practice-led research project into design for disassembly, developed in the work Shrinking Violets (2015). All garments are constructed in laser cut modules that enable the items to be reassembled in new combinations. The project extended the materials used to include ahimsa (peace) silk, silk organza and silk twill. The pattern pieces have internal laser cut grids of 5mm circles, allowing the textiles to be layered, threaded and knotted to achieve rich embellished surfaces that play with the transparencies and colour overlays of the sheer and opaque silks. Research Background Conceptually grounded in design for sustainability, the aim of the work is to develop approaches to garment construction that could allow users to engage with the garments by adding, removing and reconfiguring elements. This approach to design considers the use and end-of-life phases of the transient fashion garment through considering how the garments can be later disassembled. Research Contribution This construction process is unique in being not only a patterning device but also integral to the garment’s construction. This work sits at the intersection of technical design and craft: the laser cutting and technical approach to developing new forms of garment construction is coupled with the artisanal approach of hand-knotting, a reference to traditional quilting techniques, as a method to layer and pattern the textiles. The technique developed in Shrinking Violets was extended to experiment with different grid structures, knotting devices, and decorative fringing. The result is a proposed construction system in which the laser cut grid and knotting form a decorative patterning device, but are also integral to the garments’ construction. Research Significance Garden of Shrinking Violets was exhibited at artisan gallery’s Ivory Street window, Brisbane, January 18 – February 28 2016. The work was selected by artisan gallery exhibition curators. As part of artisan gallery’s public programming, the author participated in a panel discussion: ‘Constructive conversations: deconstruction and reconstruction in contemporary craft and design’ with jeweller Elizabeth Shaw and visual arts lecturer Courtney Pedersen, 20 February 2016. Photography used in illustrations by Jonathan Rae

Assessment of Nanoscience and Nanotechnology Initiatives in India

Nanotechnology is a new technology which is generating a lot of interest among academicians, practitioners and scientists. Critical research is being carried out in this area all over the world.Governments are creating policy initiatives to promote developments it the nanoscale science and technology developments. Private investment is also seeing a rising trend. Large number of academic institutions and national laboratories has set up research centers that are workingon the multiple applications of nanotechnology. Wide ranges of applications are claimed for nanotechnology. This consists of materials, chemicals, textiles, semiconductors, to wonder drug delivery systems and diagnostics. Nanotechnology is considered to be a next big wave of technology after information technology and biotechnology. In fact, nanotechnology holds the promise of advances that exceed those achieved in recent decades in computers and biotechnology. Much interest in nanotechnology also could be because of the fact that enormous monetary benefits are expected from nanotechnology based products. According to NSF, revenues from nanotechnology could touch $ 1 trillion by 2015. However much of the benefits are projected ones. Realizing claimed benefits require successful development of nanoscience andv nanotechnology research efforts. That is the journey of invention to innovation has to be completed. For this to happen the technology has to flow from laboratory to market. Nanoscience and nanotechnology research efforts have to come out in the form of new products, new processes, and new platforms.India has also started its Nanoscience and Nanotechnology development program in under its 10(th) Five Year Plan and funds worth Rs. One billion have been allocated for Nanoscience and Nanotechnology Research and Development. The aim of the paper is to assess Nanoscience and Nanotechnology initiatives in India. We propose a conceptual model derived from theresource based view of the innovation. We have developed a structured questionnaire to measure the constructs in the conceptual model. Responses have been collected from 115 scientists and engineers working in the field of Nanoscience and Nanotechnology. The responses have been analyzed further by using Principal Component Analysis, Cluster Analysis and Regression Analysis.

Löydöstä muinaispuvuksi : arkeologisten tekstiilien ennallistaminen

From a find to an ancient costume - reconstruction of archaeological textiles Costume tells who we are. It warms and protects us, but also tells about our identity: gender, age, family, social group, work, religion and ethnicity. Textile fabrication, use and trade have been an important part of human civilization for more than 10 000 years. There are plenty of archaeological textile findings, but they are small, fragmentary and their interpretation requires special skills. Finnish textile findings from the younger Iron Age have already been studied for more than hundred years. They have also been used as a base for several reconstructions called muinaispuku , ancient costume. Thesis surveys the ancient costume reconstruction done in Finland and discusses the objectives of the reconstruction projects. The earlier reconstruction projects are seen as a part of the national project of constructing a glorious past for Finnish nationality, and the part women took in this project. Many earlier reconstructions are designed to be festive costumes for wealthy ladies. In the 1980s and 1990s many new ancient costume reconstructions were made, differing from their predecessors at the pattern of the skirt. They were also done following the principles of making a scientific reconstruction more closely. At the same time historical re-enactment and living history as a hobby have raised in popularity, and the use of ancient costumes is widening from festive occasions to re-enactment purposes. A hypothesis of the textile craft methods used in younger Iron Age Finland is introduced. Archaeological findings from Finland and neighboring countries, ethnological knowledge of textile crafts and experimental archaeology have been used as a basis for this proposition. The yarn was spinned with a spindle, the fabrics woven on a warp-weighted loom and dyed with natural colors. Bronze spiral applications and complicated tablet-woven bands have possibly been done by specialist craftswomen or -men. The knowledge of the techniques and results of experimenting and experimental archaeology gives a possibility to review the success of existing ancient costume reconstructions as scientific reconstructions. Only one costume reconstruction project, the Kaarina costume fabricated in Kurala Kylämäki museum, has been done using as authentic methods as possible. The use of ancient craft methods is time-consuming and expensive. This fact can be seen as one research result itself for it demonstrates how valuable the ancient textiles have been also in their time of use. In the costume reconstruction work, the skill of a craftswoman and her knowledge of ancient working methods is strongly underlined. Textile research is seen as a process, where examination of original textiles and reconstruction experiments discuss with each other. Reconstruction projects can give a lot both to the research of Finnish younger Iron Age and the popularization of archaeological knowledge. The reconstruction is never finished, and also the earlier reconstructions should be reviewed in the light of new findings.

Process Development for Functionalization of Cotton with Silver Nanoparticles Synthesized by Bio-based Approaches

Cotton is a widely used raw material for textiles but drawbacks regarding their poor mechanical properties often limit their applications as functional materials. The present investigation involved process development for one step coating of cotton with silver nanoparticles (SNP) synthesized using Azadirachta indica and Citrus limon extract to develop functional textiles. Addition of starch to functional textiles led to efficient binding of nanoparticles to fabric and led to drastic decrease in release of silver from fabricated textiles after ten washing cycles enhancing their environment friendliness. Differential scanning calorimetry, scanning electron microscopy, FT-IR analysis and mechanical studies demonstrated efficient binding of nanoparticles to fabric through bio-based processes. The functionalized textiles developed by the bio-based methods showed significant antibacterial activity against E. coli and S. aureus (with 99% microbial reduction). Present work offers a simple procedure for coating SNP using bio-based approaches with promising applications in specialized functions.

Una iniciativa social en la recuperación textil que genera empleo: Berohi S. Coop.

[ES] El incremento del consumo de ropa provoca que año a año aumente el volumen de ropa desechada, y con éste, la conciencia sobre la necesidad de reutilizar dicho recurso. Berohi S. Coop. es una de las empresas dedicadas a la recuperación y reciclaje del textil usado, con origen en Bizkaia. La concepción inicial y desarrollo del proyecto empresarial Berohi S. Coop. constituyen el eje central del caso.

Atomistic simulation studies of the cement paste components

230 p.

El significado de la creación de tejidos en la obra de mujeres artistas

461 p. : il., col.

Análisis y clasificación de los brocados aplicados de los retablos de Guipúzcoa

895 p. : il., col.

Desarrollo de composites de base de nanoparticulas de FeNi obtenidas por el metodo de explosion de hilo para alas aplicaciones de altas frecuencias

Actualmente ningún área científica es ajena a la revolución de la nanociencia; las nanopartículas atraen el interés de muchos investigadores desde el punto de vista de la ciencia fundamental y para sus aplicaciones tecnológicas. Las nanopartículas ofrecen la posibilidad de fabricar sensores que sean capaces de detectar desde un virus hasta concentraciones de substancias patógenas que no pueden ser detectadas por los métodos convencionales. Hoy en día existes 82 tratamientos contra el cáncer basadas en la utilización de nanopartículas y los materiales composite con nanopartículas se utilizan como medio de protección frente a la radiación del rango de microondas. En la rama de ciencias ambientales, las nanopartículas metálicas sirven como materiales anticontaminantes. En la primera etapa de este trabajo, se ha estudiado la estructura cristalina y las propiedades magnéticas de las nanopartículas de FeNi, obtenidas por el método EEW, compactadas en forma de toroide. Para el aprendizaje del difractometro utilizado para este trabajo y el método de difracción de Rayos-X, se ha asistido al curso “Caracterización de materiales mediante DRX-P” impartido por SGIker de la UPV/EHU. Con la técnica de Rayos-X se ha determinado que el toroide consiste en dos fases: el FeNi metálico y el NiFe2O4. Ambos se cristalizan en un sistema cúbico FCC. Se ha determinado un valor de 50 nm del tamaño de dominio coherente de difracción en la superficie del toroide y aproximadamente el doble en el interior. Se han empleado los microscopios electrónicos SEM y TEM para obtener imágenes de gran resolución de la muestra y analizar su contenido elemental. Se puede apreciar que el toroide, efectivamente, es el fruto de la compactación de nanopartículas de alrededor de 60 nm. Para la caracterización magnética se ha utilizado el “trazador de ciclos” y el magnetómetro de muestra vibrante. Consiguiendo un valor de saturación, en uno de los toroides, de 140 emu/g con la aplicación de un campo magnético de 0.15 kOe. Estos valores dependen de los tratamientos recibidos. En la segunda etapa, se han realizado distintas mezclas de polímetro y nanopartículas para obtener los composites en forma de lámina y analizar su capacidad de absorción frente a la radiación en el rango de microondas. Todas las medidas de absorción en función del campo magnético externo muestran una absorción pronunciada en el campo cero y un desplazamiento a la izquierda del pico de resonancia respecto a la posición esperada para partículas esféricas. Dicho desplazamiento se interpreta, aparte de otros mecanismos, como el resultado de la existencia de la estructura cristalina tipo “gemelos” en algunas nanopartículas. La absorción en campo cero y el ensanchamiento de la línea de resonancia ferromagnética de los composites tipo polímero/nanopartículas de FeNi forman una solida base de las posibles aplicaciones de estos materiales como absorbentes en el rango de microondas.

Avaliação de Metodologia para Controle e Medição de Cor em Efluentes Têxteis.

Os processos de beneficiamento têxtil, como o alvejamento, a purga, o tingimento e as lavagens são reconhecidamente impactantes ao meio ambiente, tanto do ponto de vista de consumo de água, quanto da geração de efluentes. Os efluentes têxteis oriundos dos processos de beneficiamento se caracterizam por apresentarem elevadas concentrações de substâncias emulsificantes, íons cloreto, sólidos e matéria orgânica, além de alta toxicidade. Mas sem dúvida, o maior problema desses efluentes deve-se a presença de corantes e pigmentos. Alguns parâmetros físico-químicos importantes no controle da poluição hídrica são de difícil medição e consequente monitoramento, principalmente pela ausência de legislação que expresse de maneira clara e objetiva os limites destes parâmetros. Este fato permite avaliações dúbias e contestações aos órgãos ambientais. Especificamente no caso do parâmetro cor, esta subjetividade obriga muitas indústrias a empregarem valores de controle de cor oriundos de outros estados, ou até mesmo de outros países. No Rio de Janeiro, de acordo com a NT-202-R-10 do INEA, o critério para cor é estar virtualmente ausente no efluente. Neste contexto, este estudo avaliou algumas metodologias empregadas na determinação da cor em um efluente têxtil. Para a medição de cor, foram empregadas três metodologias descritas na literatura. A primeira metodologia desenvolvida para análise de água, também utilizada para efluentes líquidos, se baseia em medições espectrofotométricas em um único comprimento de onda padrão (450nm ou 465nm), tendo como referência soluções de Pt-Co. Essa metodologia não abrange todas as tonalidades do espectro de cores possíveis para os efluentes têxteis. O segundo método se baseia na medição em três comprimentos de onda (436, 525 e 620nm), denominado índice DFZ. O último método investiga os valores máximos de absorbância, na faixa entre 350 e 700nm, na amostra. Os resultados obtidos mostraram que as correções dos valores de medição de cor utilizando os valores máximos de absorbância expressaram melhor a realidade dos dados experimentais, visto que eliminam um possível erro causado pela restrita faixa de detecção do método tradicional, numa região do espectro típica para tonalidades encontradas na água.

Design and process selection for joints in flexible materials

The application of high performance textiles has grown significantly in the last 10 to 15 years. Various research groups throughout the United Kingdom, such as the Department of Trade and Industry, have identified technical textiles as a field for future development. There is little design guidance for joining of flexible materials or general property models that can be applied to theses materials. This lack is due to the large diversity of properties, structures and resulting behaviours of the materials that are classified as "Flexible Materials". This dissertation explores the issues that are involved in characterising the materials at the fibre, bulk and textile levels. Different units of measurement are used for each stage of the manufacturing process of flexible materials and this disparity creates problems when trying to make general comparisons (e.g. comparing textiles to polymer films). Thus, a possible solution to this is to create selection charts that allow designers to compare the strength of materials for a given mass per unit area. A design tool was created using the Cambridge Engineering Selector (CES) software to enable the selection of joining processes for material. The tool is effective in selecting a reduced number of viable joining processes. Through case studies it was shown that designers are required to examine the selected processes (identified by the software) in greater detail - in particular the economics and geometry of the joint - in order to identify the optimum joining process.

Compressive response of glass fiber composite sandwich structures

Sandwich panels with crushable foam cores have attracted significant interest for impulsive load mitigation. We describe a method for making a lightweight, energy absorbing, glass fiber composite sandwich structure and explore it is through thickness (out-of-plane) compressive response. The sandwich structure utilized corrugated composite cores constructed from delamination resistant 3D woven E-glass fiber textiles folded over triangular cross section prismatic closed cell, PVC foam inserts. The corrugated structure was stitched to 3D woven S2-glass fiber face sheets and infiltrated with a rubber toughened, impact resistant epoxy. The quasi-static compressive stress-strain response of the panels was experimentally investigated as a function of the strut width to length ratio and compared to micromechanical predictions. Slender struts failed by elastic (Euler) buckling which transitioned to plastic microbuckling as the strut aspect ratio increased. Good agreement was observed between experimental results and micromechanical predictions over the wide range of core densities investigated in the study.

Cytotoxicity evaluation of three pairs of hexabromocyclododecane (HBCD) enantiomers on Hep G2 cell

Hexabromocyclododecanes (HBCDs) are additive brominated flame retardants mainly used in plastics and textiles. At the present time, these compounds are found in almost all environmental and human samples. In order to evaluate the environmental safety and health risk of HBCDs, the enantiomerically pure alpha-, beta-, and gamma-HBCD were prepared using high performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) on a PM-P-CD column and the cytotoxicities of their enantiomers were evaluated in Hep G2 cells. Results from the 3-(4,5-dimethylthioazol-2-yl)-2,5-diphenyl tetrazolium bromide (MTT), resazurin reduction and lactate dehydrogenase (LDH) release assays showed a good agreement that the order of cytotoxicity was gamma-HBCD >= beta-HBCD > alpha-HBCD, and that significantly lower cell viability and higher LDH release were observed in all (+)-enantiomers ((+) alpha-, (+) beta- and (+) gamma-HBCD) than the corresponding (-)-forms ((-) alpha-, (-) beta- and (-) gamma-HBCD). Additionally, the formation of reactive oxygen species (ROS) induced by these HBCD enantiomers were detected. The positive correlation between the LDH release and ROS formation demonstrated that the toxic mechanism might be mediated by oxidative damage. These results suggest that environmental and human health risks of HBCDs must be evaluated at the level of individual enantiomers. (C) 2008 Published by Elsevier Ltd.

Desarrollo de imágen corporativa, trabajo del totumo en Tubará, tejeduría en palma de iraca en Usiacurí y tejeduría en bejuco en Galapa : fortalecimiento empresarial y comercial del sector artesanal en el departamento del Atlántico.

22 hojas : ilustraciones a color.

Asesoría en diseño gráfico : cadena productiva de sericultura (Cauca) - Cadena productiva del mimbre (Tolima).

18 hojas : Ilustraciones a color.