"Her lively Looks a sprightly Mind disclose, Quick as her Eyes, and as unfix'd as those." - looking, fashion media, and risk culture

This chapter investigates the phenomenon of fashion from the perspective of ‘the look.’ This is achieved by the wearer (as opposed to the designer) and also forms the basis of fashion media, where it represents the ‘decisive moment’ of photography. The chapter argues that the evolving ‘look’ of fashion can be analysed to identify tensions between novelty and emulation, the unique and the universal, in contemporary consumer culture and status-based social-network markets. It explores the work of fashion photographer Corinne Day and artist Olga Tobreluts to identify the theme of ‘risk culture.’

An apprehensive aesthetic : the legacy of modernist culture

Art continues to bemuse and confuse many people today. Yet, its critical analyses are saturated with daunting analyses of contemporary art's exhaustion, its predictability or its absorption into global commercial culture. In this book, the author seeks to clarify this apprehensive perception of art. He argues it is a consequence not only of confounding art-works, but also of the paradoxical impetus of a culture of modernity. By positively reassessing the perplexing or apprehensive features of cultural modernity as well as of aesthetic inquiry, this book redefines the ambitions of art in the wake of this legacy. In the process, it challenges many familiar approaches to art inquiry in order to offer a new understanding of the aesthetic, social and cultural aspirations of art in our time.

The dynamic processes of visual, corporate, and organisational identity : an exploratory study

The purpose of this study is to contribute to the cross-disciplinary body of literature of identity and organisational culture. This study empirically investigated the Hatch and Schultz (2002) Organisational Identity Dynamics (OID) model to look at linkages between identity, image, and organisational culture. This study used processes defined in the OID model as a theoretical frame by which to understand the relationships between actual and espoused identity manifestations across visual identity, corporate identity, and organisational identity. The linking processes of impressing, mirroring, reflecting, and expressing were discussed at three unique levels in the organisation. The overarching research question of How does the organisational identity dynamics process manifest itself in practice at different levels within an organisation? was used as a means of providing empirical understanding to the previously theoretical OID model. Case study analysis was utilised to provide exploratory data across the organisational groups of: Level A - Senior Marketing and Corporate Communications Management, Level B - Marketing and Corporate Communications Staff, and Level C - Non-Marketing Managers and Employees. Data was collected via 15 in-depth interviews with documentary analysis used as a supporting mechanism to provide triangulation in analysis. Data was analysed against the impressing, mirroring, reflecting, and expressing constructs with specific criteria developed from literature to provide a detailed analysis of each process. Conclusions revealed marked differences in the ways in which OID processes occurred across different levels with implications for the ways in which VI, CI, and OI interact to develop holistic identity across organisational levels. Implications for theory detail the need to understand and utilise cultural understanding in identity programs as well as the value in developing identity communications which represent an actual rather than an espoused position.

Psychedelic Culture

This exhibition catalogue essay provides an introduction to psychedelic culture during the postwar period. It describes the early use of LSD in psychiatric circles and its conception as a psychotomimetic substance. It then considers its use by literary figures such as Aldous Huxley and followers of the Beat Generation. Timothy Leary's role as an LSD philosopher is also explained as is the rise of the Hippies and the ensuing counterculture. This culture produced a range of cultural forms such as music, fashion, graphic design and other visual arts that were informed by hallucinations experienced under the influence of LSD. It concludes with a description of the end of the Hippie movement in the 1970s.

Frames of Anime: Culture and Image-Building

With the rising popularity of anime amongst animation students, audiences and scholars around the world, it has become increasingly important to critically analyse anime as being more than a ‘limited’ form of animation, and thematically as encompassing more than super robots and pocket monsters. Frames of Anime: Culture and Image-Building charts the development of Japanese animation from its indigenous roots within a native culture, through Japan’s experience of modernity and the impact of the Second World War. This text is the result of a rigorous study that recognises the heterogeneous and polymorphous background of anime. As such, Tze-Yue has adopted an ‘interdisciplinary and transnational’ (p. 7) approach to her enquiry, drawing upon face-to-face interviews, on-site visits and biographical writings of animators. Tze-Yue delineates anime from other forms of animation by linking its visual style to pre-modern Japanese art forms and demonstrating the connection it shares with an indigenous folk system of beliefs. Via the identification of traditional Japanese art forms and their visual connectedness to Japanese animation, Tze-Yue shows that the Japanese were already heavily engaged in what was destined to become anime once technology had enabled its production. Tze-Yue’s efforts to connect traditional Japanese art forms, and their artistic elements, to contemporary anime reveals that the Japanese already had a rich culture of visual storytelling that pre-dates modern animation. She identifies the Japanese form of the magic lantern at the turn of the 19th century, utsushi-e, as the pre-modern ancestor of Japanese animation, describing it as ‘Edo anime’ (p. 43). Along with utsushi-e, the Edo period also saw the woodblock print, ukiyo-e, being produced for the rising middle class (p. 32). Highlighting the ‘resurfacing’ of ‘realist’ approaches to Japanese art in ukiyo-e, Tze-Yue demonstrates the visual connection of ukiyo-e and anime in the …

Re-made in Asia : transformation across Asian markets and popular culture

The thesis is an examination of how Japanese popular culture products are remade (rimeiku). Adaptation of manga, anime and television drama, from one format to another, frequently occurs within Japan. The rights to these stories and texts are traded in South Korea and Taiwan. The ‘spin-off’ products form part of the Japanese content industry. When products are distributed and remade across geographical boundaries, they have a multi-dimensional aspect and potentially contribute to an evolving cultural re-engagement between Japan and East Asia. The case studies are the television dramas Akai Giwaku and Winter Sonata and two manga, Hana yori Dango and Janguru Taitei. Except for the television drama Winter Sonata these texts originated in Japan. Each study shows how remaking occurs across geographical borders. The study argues that Japan has been slow to recognise the value of its popular culture through regional and international media trade. Japan is now taking steps to remedy this strategic shortfall to enable the long-term viability of the Japanese content industry. The study includes an examination of how remaking raises legal issues in the appropriation of media content. Unauthorised copying and piracy contributes to loss of financial value. To place the three Japanese cultural products into a historical context, the thesis includes an overview of Japanese copying culture from its early origins through to the present day. The thesis also discusses the Meiji restoration and the post-World War II restructuring that resulted in Japan becoming a regional media powerhouse. The localisation of Japanese media content in South Korea and Taiwan also brings with it significant cultural influences, which may be regarded as contributing to a better understanding of East Asian society in line with the idea of regional ‘harmony’. The study argues that the commercial success of Japanese products beyond Japan is governed by perceptions of the quality of the story and by the cultural frames of the target audience. The thesis draws on audience research to illustrate the loss or reinforcement of national identity as a consequence of cross-cultural trade. The thesis also examines the contribution to Japanese ‘soft power’ (Nye, 2004, p. x). The study concludes with recommendations for the sustainability of the Japanese media industry.

An in-vitro 3-D cell culture model for studying pathomechanisms in AMD

Purpose To develop a novel 3-D cell culture model with the view to studying the pathomechanisms underlying the development of age-related macular degeneration (AMD). Our central hypothesis is that the silk structural protein fibroin used in conjunction with cultured human cells can be used to mimic the structural relationships between the RPE and choriocapillaris in health and disease. Methods Co-cultures of human RPE cells (ARPE-19 cells grown in Miller’s medium) and microvascular endothelial cells (HMEC-1 cells grown in endothelial culture medium) were established on opposing sides of a synthetic Bruch’s membrane (3 microns thick) constructed from B mori silk fibroin. Cell attachment was facilitated by pre-coating the fibroin membrane with vitronectin (for ARPE-19 cells) and gelatin (for HMEC-1 cells) respectively. The effects of tropoelastin on attachment of ARPE-19 cells was also examined. Barrier function was examined by measurement of trans-epithelial resistance (TER) using a voltohmmeter (EVOM-2). The phagocytic activity of the synthetic RPE was tested using vitronectin-coated microspheres (2 micron diameter FluoSpheres). In some cultures, membrane defects were created by puncturing within a 24 G needle. The architecture of the synthetic tissue before and after wounding was examined by confocal microscopy after staining for ZO-1 and F-actin. Results The RPE layer of the 3D model developed a cobblestoned morphology (validated by staining for ZO-1 and F-actin), displayed barrier function (validated by measurement of TER) and demonstrated cytoplasmic uptake of vitronectin-coated microspheres. Attachment of ARPE-19 cells to fibroin was unaffected by tropoelastin. Microvascular endothelial cells attached well to the gelatin-coated surface of the fibroin membrane and remained physically separated from the overlaying RPE layer. The fibroin membranes were amenable to puncturing without collapse thus providing the opportunity to study transmembrane migration of the endothelial cells. Conclusions Synthetic Bruch’s membranes constructed from silk fibroin, vitronectin and gelatin, support the co-cultivation of RPE cells and microvascular endothelial cells. The resulting RPE layer displays functions similar to that of native RPE and the entire tri-layered structure displays potential to be used as an in vitro model of choroidal neovascularization.

Review : "The Culture of Curating and the Curating of Culture(s)", Paul O’Neill (2012)

Paul O'Neill's book, 'The Culture of Curating and the Curating of Culture(s)provides a concise overview of how curating has changed art and how art has changed curating. The book is divided into three sections, each dealing with a key transitional development: (1) the historical development of curatorial discourse; (2) the influence of the Biennial phenomenon and, finally, (3) how art and curating have converged since the 1990s. This review discusses the publication as a significant contribution to the development of a curatorial history and discourse.

The modern primitive and the antipodes: The visual arts and Oceania

In a book seeking to redraw the boundaries between interdisciplinary and transnational modernisms, this chapter contributes to the reorientation in modernist studies by revisiting "primitivism." While no one freely identifies as “primitive,” the spectre of primitivism was a magnet of attraction as well as of critical refusal. It resided on the knife-edge of envy and denunciation, as well as for the projection of alternate imaginative utopias and the worst forms of racial chauvinism. This chapter asserts that primitivism endures as a provocation as much as a utopian aspiration, but it also provides a different understanding of cultures on the "periphery", which is how Antipodean art history has understood itself. The spectre of primitivism not only amplifies the quandaries of modernist cultures—both alerting one to the aesthetic alternatives to modernist cultures, yet also highlighting the fate of traditional culture pitted against modernist cultures, it also suggests the quandaries of a peripheral modernity.

Playing "Nordic": The Women of Niskavuori, Agri/Culture, and Imagining Finland on the Third Reich Stage

The theatrical censorship of the Third Reich considered the playwright's race and politics alongside the content of the drama. Given the political stigma of its "leftist" author, it is rather surprising that Hella Wuolijoki's Niskavuoren naiset opened in 1938 at the Staatliches Schauspielhaus in Hamburg. The play ran for fourteen performances before being closed by the Reichsdramaturgie, apparently at the instigation of Finnish critics. Yet this was not the end of the play's or its author's fortunes in the Third Reich, as the possibility of staging the play was raised several times over the next four years, coming to a close in 1942. Playing "Nordic" examines the ideological and theatrical background of this extended "cultural performance," as a means to reopening and reconstructing the work of the 1938 Die Frauen auf Niskavuori. Written by a Finnish, northern, "Nordic" author, and preoccupied with the dynamics of rural culture in an increasingly urbanized world, Niskavuoren naiset was understood in the Third Reich to illustrate and reinforce the racial, agri/cultural themes of Blut und Boden ("veri ja maa"). Playing "Nordic" examines this thematic relationship in three phases. The first phase uses archival materials to investigate the Reichsdramaturgie's understanding of the play and its author, and its ongoing discussion of Wuolijoki from 1937 to 1942. Play evaluator Sigmund Graff's description of Niskavuoren naiset as hamsunartig, or "Hamsun-esque," inspires the second phase of the dissertation, which first elaborates the meanings of Blut und Boden through a reading of contemporary "racial" theory and anthropology, and then assesses the representation of Finland within this discourse, one of the dominant cultural paradigms of the Third Reich. Imaging Finland for German audiences, the play stood among analogous, continued efforts to represent Finland and the rural life in the Third Reich, colored by Blut und Boden: art and agricultural exhibitions, essays and propaganda literature, mass demonstrations of the peasantry. This wider framework for the performance of "Finland" materializes the abstract or theoretical program of Blut und Boden in its everyday performed meanings; as such it provides the essential background for reading the Hamburg production of Die Frauen auf Niskavuori, which sustains the third and final phase. The German translation and the Hamburg photographic record are compared with the Helsinki premiere to assess the impact of Blut und Boden on the representation of Wuolijoki's play in the Third Reich. The journalistic critical response illuminates the effect that the dramatic complex of rural and racial values - generically identified as Bauerndrama in the Third Reich - had on the reception of the play; at the same time, both visual and critical documents also suggest possible moments of theatrical dissent in the Hamburg production. Playing "Nordic" undertakes a documentary and cultural reading of the changing theatrical meanings of Wuolijoki's Niskavuoren naiset as it crossed the frontier from Finland to the stage of the Third Reich. It also provides a model for the ways theatrical signification operates within a network of cultural and ideological meanings, suggesting the ideological work of theatrical production depends on, reinforces, and contests that tissue of values. Although Finnish criticism of Niskavuoren naiset has assumed the play's Blut und Boden resonance contributed to Wuolijoki's success in the Third Reich, this study shows a considerably more complex situation. This revealing production dramatizes the changing uses of plays in a politicized national and transnational context. As part of the framing of "Nordic" identity on the wider stage of the Third Reich, Die Frauen auf Niskavuori exemplifies the conjunction of concurrent - sometimes independent, sometimes interlocking - "racial" and national ideologies.

"Like a monkey with a miniature cymbal": Cultural practices of repetition in visual social media

Looping media are recurring components of online content, from gifs to Vine videos, in addition to the conceptual repetition of memes and related practices. This paper analyses practices around looping visual media as examples of vernacular creativity, social media literacies, and internet culture, especially for irreverent and playful purposes. Focusing on the LGBTQ digital cultural context as a pilot study, this research examines multi-platform uses of looping media, including personal narratives through Vine videos and animated gifs on Tumblr. In addition to textual analysis of LGBTQ looping visual social media content, the study will further explore the platform context as part of the experience of looped media. The research will address how these factors may also contribute to practices of irreverence and play, both within the specific case of LGBTQ culture and internet culture more generally.

The digital-bricoleur: Contemporary screen-based visual art practices

This paper describes a practice-led methodology that combines contemporary art theory and processes, as well as concepts of fan studies to construct a space for the critical and creative exploration of screen culture. The research promotes new possibilities for purposeful creative engagements with the screen, framed through the lens of what I term the digital-bricoleur. This performative, link-making approach documents the complicit tendencies that arise out of my affective relationship with screen culture, mapping out a cultural terrain in which I can creatively and critically ‘play’. The creative exploitation of this improvisational and aleatory activity then forms the creative research outputs. It appropriates and reconfigures content from screen culture, creating digital video installations aimed at engendering new experiences and critical interpretations of screen culture.

East Asian audio-visual collaboration and the global expansion of Chinese media

In recent years, many of the world’s leading media producers, screenwriters, technicians and investors, particularly those in the Asia-Pacific region, have been drawn to work in the People's Republic of China (hereafter China or Mainland China). Media projects with a lighter commercial entertainment feel – compared with the heavy propaganda-oriented content of the past – have multiplied, thanks to the Chinese state’s newfound willingness to consider collaboration with foreign partners. This is no more evident than in film. Despite their long-standing reputation for rigorous censorship, state policymakers are now encouraging Chinese media entrepreneurs to generate fresh ideas and to develop products that will revitalise the stagnant domestic production sector. It is hoped that an increase in both the quality and quantity of domestic feature films, stimulated by an infusion of creativity and cutting-edge technology from outside the country, will help reverse China’s ‘cultural trade deficit’ (wenhua maoyi chizi) (Keane 2007).

Instagrammatics and digital methods: Studying visual social media, from selfies and GIFs to memes and emoji

Visual content is a critical component of everyday social media, on platforms explicitly framed around the visual (Instagram and Vine), on those offering a mix of text and images in myriad forms (Facebook, Twitter, and Tumblr), and in apps and profiles where visual presentation and provision of information are important considerations. However, despite being so prominent in forms such as selfies, looping media, infographics, memes, online videos, and more, sociocultural research into the visual as a central component of online communication has lagged behind the analysis of popular, predominantly text-driven social media. This paper underlines the increasing importance of visual elements to digital, social, and mobile media within everyday life, addressing the significant research gap in methods for tracking, analysing, and understanding visual social media as both image-based and intertextual content. In this paper, we build on our previous methodological considerations of Instagram in isolation to examine further questions, challenges, and benefits of studying visual social media more broadly, including methodological and ethical considerations. Our discussion is intended as a rallying cry and provocation for further research into visual (and textual and mixed) social media content, practices, and cultures, mindful of both the specificities of each form, but also, and importantly, the ongoing dialogues and interrelations between them as communication forms.

O ser negro à vista: construção verbo-visual do negro na propaganda impressa

Esta tese destina-se a desenvolver estudo semiótico de propagandas impressas em que a pessoa negra é posta em presença. Investiga-se como a propaganda veiculada em revista, mediante seleção e combinação sígnicas, efetiva a construção da imagem verbo-visual do negro, tendo em vista o produto anunciado e os projetos comunicativos do enunciador e, assim, como finda por ratificar ou (re)elaborar significados sociais acerca desse sujeito. Pautando-se na Semiótica de Charles Sanders Peirce e tendo por suporte, fundamentalmente, a Teoria da Iconicidade Verbal de Simões (2009), a pesquisa aborda todos os signos verbais e não verbais em diálogo, como dotados de potencial icônico, não só revelador dos projetos de texto, como também ativador de interpretações/leituras e, ainda, delineador de sentidos, posteriormente cristalizados e convertidos em significados imanentes aos signos e aos objetos reportados. Por ter, como material constitutivo do corpus, textos elaborados em linguagem mista, a pesquisa propõe a aplicação da Teoria da Iconicidade Verbal ao universo dos signos lato sensu. O debate apresenta o texto de propaganda como excelente material, não só para implementar os estudos de História e Cultura Afro-brasileiras, como prevê a Lei 10.639/03, como também para subsidiar o ensino de língua portuguesa, com ênfase para os estudos sobre leitura e produção textual, para que se forme sujeito dotado de habilidades que lhe permitam reconhecer no verbal e no não verbal a revelação e a geração de sentidos sociais