The Fleet Store : devising a public retail exhibition to promote creative, innovative and sustainable business models for emerging fashion designers

1.Description of the Work The Fleet Store was devised as a creative output to establish an exhibition linked to a fashion business model where emerging designers were encouraged to research new and innovative strategies for creating design-driven and commercial collections for a public consumer. This was a project that was devised to break down the perceptions of emerging fashion designers that designing commercial collections linked to a sustainable business model is a boring and unnecessary process. The focus was to demystify the business of fashion and to link its importance to a design-driven and public outcome that is more familiar to fashion designers. The criterion for participation was that all designers had to be registered as a business with the Australian Taxation Office. Designers were chosen from the Creative Enterprise Australia Fashion Business Incubator, the QUT fashion graduate alumni and current QUT fashion design and double degree (fashion and business) students with existing businesses. The project evolved from a series of collaborative workshops where designers were introduced to new and innovative creative industries’ business models and the processes, costings and timings involved to create a niche, sustainable business for a public exhibition of design-driven commercial collections. All designers initiated their own business infra-structure but were then introduced to the concept of collaboration for successful and profitable exhibition and business outcomes. Collaborative strategies such as crowd funding, crowd sourcing, peer to peer mentoring and manufacturing were all researched, and strategies for the establishment of the retail exhibition were all devised in a collaborative environment. All participants also took on roles outside their ‘designer’ background to create a retail exhibition that was creative but also had critical mass and aesthetic for the consumer. The Fleet Store ‘popped up’ for 2 weeks (10 days), in a heritage-listed building in an inner city location. Passers-by were important, but the main consumer was enlisted by the use of interest and investment from crowd sourcing, crowd funding, ethical marketing, corporate social responsibility projects and collaborative public relations and social media strategies. The research has furthered discussion on innovative strategies for emerging fashion designers to initiate and maintain sustainable businesses and suggests that collaboration combined with a design-driven and business focus can create a sustainable and economically viable retail exhibition. 2. Research Statement Research Background The research field involved developing a new ethical, design-driven, collaborative and sustainable model for fashion design practice and management. The research asked can a public, design-driven, collaborative retail exhibition create a platform for promoting creative, innovative and sustainable business models for emerging fashion designers. The methodology was primarily practice-led as all participants were designers in their own right and the project manager acted as a mentor and curator to guide the process and analyse the potential of the research question. The Fleet Store offers new knowledge in design practice and management; with the creation of a model where design outcomes and business models are inextricably linked to the success of the creative output. Key innovations include extending the commercialisation of emerging fashion businesses by creating a curated retail gallery for collaborative and sustainable strategies to support niche fashion designer labels. This has contributed to a broader conversation on how to nurture and sustain competitive Australian fashion designers/labels. Research Contribution and Significance The Fleet Store has contributed to a growing body of research into innovative and sustainable business models for niche fashion and creative industries’ practitioners. All participants have maintained their business infra-structure and many are currently growing their businesses, using the strategies tested for the Fleet Store. The exhibition space was visited by over 1,000 people and sales of $27,000 were made in 10 days of opening. (Follow up sales of $3,000 has also been reported.) Three of the designers were ‘discovered’ from the exhibition and have received substantial orders from high profile national buyers and retailers for next season delivery. Several participants have since collaborated to create other pop up retail environments and are now mentoring other emerging designers on the significance of a collaborative retail exhibition to consolidate niche business models for emerging fashion designers.

Robots, the internet and teaching history in the age of the NBN and the Australian curriculum

Have you ever wished you were Doctor Who and could pop yourself and your students into a Tardis and teleport them to an historical event or to meet a historical figure? We all know that unfortunately time travel is not (yet) possible, but maybe student and teacher teleportation just might be – sort of. Over the past few centuries and in lieu of time travel our communities have developed museums as a means of experiencing some of our history...

Do Students Not Care about Extra Credit Opportunities? Investigating Student Perceptions of Extra Credit Value vs. Effort

Giving “extra credit” work to students has been a controversial and hotly debated pedagogical issue for the last 20 years (Blood et al. 1993; Groves 2000; Muztaba Fuad and Jones 2012; Norcross et al. 1989; Weimer 2011). Previous work has focused on the faculty perspective discussing benefits and drawbacks associated with extra credit work (e.g. Hill et al. 1993; Norcross et al. 1989). Other scholars have investigated the use and effects of pop quizzes and other extra credit assignments on students’ final grades (Thorne 2000; Oley 1993). Some authors have criticized that the empirical exploration of understanding students’ motivational and performance efforts remains scarce and “rarely appears in the literature” (Mays and Bower 2005, p. 1). Besides a gap of empirical work it further appears that most existing studies stem from Psychology or Information Science. Yet it is surprising that, even though the topic of extra credit is considered a common practice in marketing education (Ackerman and Kiesler 2007), there is a wide gap within the marketing education literature. For example, a quick search in the Journal of Marketing Education for the keyword “extra credit” shows only 25 search results; yet none of those papers address motivational or performance effects of extra credit. A further search in Marketing Education Review yielded no results at all. To the authors’ knowledge, the topic has only been addressed once by Ackerman and Kiesler in the 2007 MEA Proceedings who conclude that for “such a common part of the marketing education curriculum, we know surprisingly little about its impact on students” (p. 123).

A Submission to the Inquiry into the Resale Royalty Right for Visual Artists Bill 2008 (Cth)

A right of resale, or droit de suite (a right to follow), is a legislative instrument under intellectual property law, which enables artists to receive a percentage of the sale price whenever artistic works are resold. A French legal scholar, Albert Vaunois, first articulated the need for a 'droit de suite' in connection with fine art back in 1893. The French Government introduced a scheme to protect the right of resale in 1920, after controversy over artists living in poverty, while public auction houses were profiting from the resale of their artistic creations. In the United States, there has been less support for a right of resale amongst legislatures. After lobbying from artists such as the king of pop art, Robert Rauschenberg, the state of California passed the Resale Royalties Act in 1977. At a Federal level, the United States Congress has shown some reluctance in providing national recognition for a right of resale in the United States. A number of other European countries have established a right of resale. In 2001, the European Council adopted the Artists' Resale directive and recognised that the 'artist's resale right forms an integral part of copyright and is an essential prerogative for authors.' In 2006, the United Kingdom promulgated regulations, giving effect to a right of resale in that jurisdiction. However, a number of Latin American and African countries have established a right of resale. The New Zealand Parliament has debated a bill on a right of resale.

Effectiveness of on-line resources to enhance student learning and engagement

BACKGROUND For engineering graduates to be work-ready with marketable skills they must not only be well-versed with engineering science and its applications, but also able to adapt to using commercial software that is widely used in engineering practice. Hydrological/hydraulic modelling is one aspect of engineering practice which demands the ability to apply fundamentals into design and construction using software. The user manuals for such software are usually tailored for the experienced engineer but not for undergraduates who typically are novices to concepts of modelling and software tools. As the focus of a course such as Advanced Water Engineering is on the wider aspects of engineering application of hydrological and hydraulic concepts, it is ineffective for the lecturers to direct the students to user manuals as students have neither the time nor the desire to sift through numerous pages in a manual. An alternative and efficient way to demonstrate the use of the software is enabling students to develop a model to simulate real-world scenario using the tools of the software and directing them to make informed decisions based on outcomes. PURPOSE Past experience of the lecturer showed that the resources available for the students left a knowledge gap leading to numerous student queries outside contact hours. The purpose of this study is to assess how effective purpose-built video resources can be in supplementing the traditional learning resources to enhance student learning. APPROACH Short-length animated video clips comprising guided step-by-step instructions were prepared using screen capture software to capture screen activity and later edited to focus on specific features using pop-up annotations; Vocal narration was purposely excluded to avoid disturbances due to noise and allow different learning paces of individual students. The video clips were made available to the students alongside the traditional resources/approaches such as in-class demonstrations, guideline notes, and tips for efficient and error-free procedural descriptions. The number of queries the lecturer received from the student cohort outside the lecture times was recorded. An anonymous survey to assess the usefulness and adequacy of the courseware was conducted. OUTCOMES While a significant decline in the number of student queries was noted, an overwhelming majority of the survey respondents confirmed the usefulness of the purpose-developed courseware. CONCLUSIONS/RECOMMENDATIONS/SUMMARY The survey and lecturer’s experience indicated that animated demonstration video clips illustrating the various steps involved in developing hydrologic and hydraulic models and simulating design scenarios is an effective supplement for traditional learning resources. Among the many advantages of the custom-made video clips as a learning resource are that they (1) highlight the aspects that are important to undergraduate learning but not available in the software manuals as the latter are designed for more mature users/learners; (2) provide short, to-the point communication in a step-by-step manner; (3) allow students flexibility to self-learn at their own pace; (4) enhance student learning; and (5) enable time savings for the lecturer in the long term by avoiding queries of a repetitive nature. It is expected that these newly developed resources will be improved to incorporate students’ suggestions before being offered to future cohorts of students. The concept can also be expanded to other relevant courses where animated demonstrations of key modelling steps are beneficial to student learning.

Sing for Fukushima

The Fukushima Response Bay Area (FRBA) in collaboration with the Berkeley Fellowship of Unitarian Universalists (BFUU) Poetry Committee and the BFUU Social Justice Committee developed the Fukushima Poetry Anthology project to highlight the ongoing disaster at Fukushima Daiichi, Japan. All works in the Anthology are in response to the nuclear disaster in Fukushima and the ongoing impacts, including this work. Japanese anti-nuclear protest songs first surfaced in the 1980s after the Chernobyl disaster. Since this time there have been numerous anti-nuclear songs, with some still being produced. Research was required to search for such songs along with understanding who sang them. A process of listening to the songs, reading the English sub-titles and sharing the music with others took place. The most popular in the sharing being the song titled You Can't See It, And You Can't Smell It Either by Rankin & Dub Ainu Band (2011).This song and others, includes a mixture of music styles from pop, punk, rap, rock, storytelling, dance hall reggae and traditional Indigenous Japanese music (Tonkori, Ainu). You Can't See It, And You Can't Smell It Either is a catchy song with a rhythmic beat that remains in one’s head long after the song has finished. This music and the people who sang it became the basis for this poem that attempts to capture the style and backgrounds of protest songs within one creative work. It is hoped that the work encourages people to continue singing for Fukushima.

Mixed Convection Boundary Layer Flow Past a Horizontal Circular Cylinder Embedded in a Bidisperse Porous Medium

Adopting a two-temperature and two-velocity model, appropriate to a bidisperse porous medium (BDPM) proposed by Nield and Kuznetsov (2008), the classical steady, mixed convection boundary layer flow about a horizontal, isothermal circular cylinder embedded in a porous medium has been theoretically studied in this article. It is shown that the boundary layer analysis leads to expressions for the flow and heat transfer characteristics in terms of an inter-phase momentum parameter, a thermal diffusivity ratio, a thermal conductivity ratio, a permeability ratio, a modified thermal capacity ratio, and a buoyancy or mixed convection parameter. The transformed partial differential equations governing the flow and heat transfer in the f-phase (the macro-pores) and the p-phase (the remainder of the structure) are solved numerically using a very efficient implicit finite-difference technique known as Keller-box method. A good agreement is observed between the present results and those known from the open literature in the special case of a traditional Darcy formulation (monodisperse system).

Forced convection along a longitudinal cylinder embedded in a saturated porous medium

The thermal boundary layer along an isothermal cylinder in a porous 3edium is studied numerically by a finite difference scheme and also using the method of extended perturbation series. The series in terms of the transverse curvature parameter ξ extended to seven terms and is subsequently improved by applying the Shanks transformation twice and thrice, respectively. Results for heat transfer characteristics are found in very good agreement.

Aavan meren täällä puolen : Arkkityyppiset piirteet ja amerikkalaisvaikutteet suosituimmissa suomalaisissa molli-iskelmissä

What are the musical features that turn a song into a hit? The aim of this research is to explore the musical features of hit tunes by studying the 224 most popular Finnish evergreens from the 1930s to the 1990s. It is remarkable, that 80-90% of Finnish oldies are in a minor key, though parallel major keys have also been widely employed within single pieces through, for example, modulations. Furthermore, melodies are usually diatonic, staying mostly in the same key. Consequently, chromatically altered tones in the melody and short modulations in the bridge sections become more prominent. I have concentrated in particular on the melodic lines in order to find the most typical melodic formulas from the data. These analyzed melodic formulas play an important role, because they serve as leading phrases and punchlines in songs. Analysis has revealed three major melodic formulas, which most often appear in the melodic lines of hit tunes. All of these formulas share common thematic ground, because they originate from the triadic tonic chord. Because the tonic chord is the most conventional opening chord in the verse parts, it is logical that these formulas occur most often in verses. The strong dominance of these formulas is very much a result of the rhythmic flexibility they possess; for instance, they can be found in every musical style from waltz to foxtrot. Alongside the major formulas lies a miscellaneous group of other tonic-related melodic formulas. One group of melodic formulas consists of melodic quotations. These quotations appear in a different musical context, for instance in a harmonically altered form, and are therefore often difficult to recognize as such. Yet despite the contextual manipulation, the distinctive character of the cited melody usually remains the same. Composers have also made use of certain popular chord-progressions in order to create new but familiar-sounding melodies. The most important individual progression in this case is what is known as a "circle of fifths" and its shortened, prolonged and altered versions. Because that progression is harmonically strong, it is also a contrastive tool used especially in chorus parts and middle sections (AABA). I have also paid attention to ragtime and jazz influences, which can be found in harmony parts and certain melody notes, which extend, suspend or alter the accompaning chords. Other influences from jazz and ragtime in the Finnish evergreen are evident in the use of typical Tin Pan Alley popular song forms. The most important is the AABA form, which dominates over the data along with the verse/chorus-type popular song form. To briefly illustrate the main results, the basic concept of the hit tune can be traced back to Tin Pan Alley songs, whereas the major stylistic aspects, such as minor keys and musical styles, bear influences from Russian, Western European, and Finnish traditions.

Velum

Velum continues material experimentation with edible materials as explored within Formations: New Practices in Australian Architecture 2012. 1 The work employs the central theme of veiling as a ‘second skin’, an intermediary agent simultaneously engaging with Heideggerian themes of ‘nearness and revealing’ (1927, 1954). This second skin creates a liminality distorting everyday objects of popular culture and technological consumption. In doing so, the work puts forth multiple considerations, the figurative play upon consumption itself; the role of the strange and obscure to affect a deepening awareness of our accelerated consumption and experience; and more tangentially, questions surrounding imminent scenarios of hybridity between body and technology. Velum represents a recent focus of the authors’ creative practice, ‘Making Strange’ (Strange Making) published and presented elsewhere. Making Strange explores the sublime process, fundamental to both the final design outcome and the designing experience. The sublime process is seen as a leading, a physiological overpowering of self to a state of intense self-presence, often leading to self-transcendence or state of otherness. As such, the work engages with the body and materials, experimentally and in a trans-disciplinary manner to inform new material practice.

Mediated music makers : Constructing author images in popular music

The subject of the thesis is the mediated construction of author images in popular music. In the study, the construction of images is treated as a process in which artists, the media and the members of the audience participate. The notions of presented, mediated and compiled author images are used in explaining the mediation process and the various authorial roles of the agents involved. In order to explore the issue more closely, I analyse the author images of a group of popular music artists representing the genres of rock, pop and electronic dance music. The analysed material consists mostly of written media texts through which the artists authorial roles and creative responsibilities are discussed. Theoretically speaking, the starting points for the examination lie in cultural studies and discourse analysis. Even though author images may be conceived as intertextual constructions, the artist is usually presented as a recognizable figure whose purpose is to give the music its public face. This study does not, then, deal with musical authors as such, but rather with their public images and mediated constructions. Because of the author-based functioning of popular music culture and the idea of the artist s individual creative power, the collective and social processes involved in the making of popular music are often superseded by the belief in a single, originating authorship. In addition to the collective practices of music making, the roles of the media and the marketing machinery complicate attempts to clarify the sharing of authorial contributions. As the case studies demonstrate, the differences between the examined author images are connected with a number of themes ranging from issues of auteurism and stardom to the use of masked imagery and the blending of authorial voices. Also the emergence of new music technologies has affected not only the ways in which music is made, but also how the artist s authorial status and artistic identity is understood. In the study at hand, the author images of auteurs, stars, DJs and sampling artists are discussed alongside such varied topics as collective authorship, evaluative hierarchies, visual promotion and generic conventions. Taken altogether, the examined case studies shed light on the functioning of popular music culture and the ways in which musical authorship is (re)defined.

Sakari Kukko - elämä, ura ja tuotanto : Pala suomalaisen populaarimusiikin historiaa vuodesta 1953 nykypäiviin

Pro gradu -tutkielmassani paneudun yhden suomalaisen populaarimusiikin toimijan elämään, uraan, tuotantoon sekä hänen käsityksiinsä musiikista ja musiikintekemisestä. Tutkimukseni on suomalaisen populaarimusiikin historian perustutkimusta Sakari Kukon henkilöhistorian kautta. Tutkimuskysymyksiäni ovat: 1. Kuinka Sakari Kukosta tuli muusikko ja musiikintekijä? 2. Minkälainen on ja on ollut hänen tapansa toimia? Vastaan edellisiin kysymyksiin, mutta sijoitan vastaukset myös ajallisesti suomalaiseen musiikki- ja yhteiskuntakontekstiin. Ongelmanasettelu tähtää siihen, että selvitän sekä Kukon omat sisäiset motiivit ja päämäärät muusikkona ja musiikintekijänä että hänen ympäristönsä tarjoamat virikkeet ja vaikutteet. Ongelman ratkaisemiseksi kartoitan hänen elämänvaiheensa lapsuudesta tähän päivään, ympäristöt, joissa hän on kulloinkin toiminut sekä ne yhteiskunnalliset tilanteet, joihin hänen ja hänen ympäristönsä toiminta on sijoittunut. Tutkimus sijoittuu vuosien 1953 ja 2003 väliselle ajalle. Kuvailen Kukon tuotantoa levy levyltä edeten kronologisesti vuosikymmenittäin. Lisäksi kokoan tuotannon yhteen ja etsin hänen säveltämästään, sovittamastaan ja esittämästään musiikista muutamia erityisen vahvoja elementtejä. Tuloksena esittelen kahdeksan kategoriaa, joista jokainen on yhdistettävissä hänen elämänvaiheisiinsa ja asetettavissa vuorovaikutukseen lähiympäristön kanssa. Tutkielmassani käytän apuna mikrohistoriallista tutkimusotetta, joka sopii mainiosti työni toteuttamiseen. Tutkimusaineisto on hyvin laaja ja monipuolinen, ja olen poiminut tietoja muun muassa lehtiartikkeleista, arkistoista, levyjen kansista, festivaaliesitteistä ja kirjallisuudesta; kaikista ei löydy edes mainintaa päivästä, vuodesta tai kirjoittajasta. Tärkein aineistoni on kuitenkin muistinvarainen tieto eli Kukon haastattelumateriaali. Mikrohistorialliseen tutkimusotteeseen nojaten olen päässyt Kukon henkilöhistorian kautta käsiksi hieman yleisemmänkin tason asioihin ja ilmiöihin. Olen selvittänyt muun muassa Kajaani Big Bandin vaiheita 1950-luvulta 1970-luvulle sekä suomalaisen pop/jazz -koulutuksen kehitystä erilaisista musiikkileireistä Sibelius-Akatemian oppiaineeksi samalla, kun olen selvittänyt Kukon kehitystä muusikoksi. Lisäksi olen esitellyt esimerkiksi studiomuusikkoutta 1970-luvun Suomessa sekä senegalilaisen musiikkielämän piirteitä 1970- ja 1980-lukujen taitteessa. Mikrohistorioitsija Carlo Ginzburgin johtolanka-ajatusta mukaillen olen koonnut pienistä tiedon palasista, johtolangoista kokonaiskertomuksen. Avainsanat: Sakari Kukko, Piirpauke, suomalainen populaarimusiikki, jazz, mikrohistoria, henkilöhistoria

7 päivää -lehden aukeama multisemioottisena tekstinä

Sensaatiolehden teksti, joka koostuu monista kuvallisista ja kielellisistä elementeistä, on tutkielman aiheena. Tutkielmassa vastataan kysymykseen, millainen tämä teksti on, kun sitä tarkastellaan multisemioottisesti. Analyysin lähtökohdaksi otetaan neljä merkityksen muodostumisen tasoa: tekstin rakentuminen (kompositio), maailman hahmottaminen (ideationaalinen merkitys), maailmaan osallistuminen (interpersoonainen merkitys) ja intertekstuaalisuus ynnä oletuslukijat (rekontekstualisointi). Teksti toimii yhtaikaa jokaisella tasolla. Aineistona on 7 päivää -lehden aukeama, jossa on Pop-palat-palsta. Aineistoa lähestytään deskriptiivisesti, eikä sitä arvoteta hyväksi tai huonoksi. Tutkielmassa käytetään viitekehyksinä systeemis-funktionaalista kieliteoriaa, kriittistä tekstianalyysiä ja sosiosemioottista visuaalista teoriaa. Tutkielma kuuluu tekstintutkimuksen alaan. Tekstiksi luetaan tässä työssä sekä visuaalisten että verbaalisten semioottisten merkkijärjestelmien tuotokset. Analyysissä osoitetaan, millaisen kokonaisuuden kuva ja kieli muodostavat, miten ne pelaavat yhteen ja millaista merkitystä yhteispeli viestii. Aikaisemman suomalaisen multisemioottisen tekstintutkimuksen kohteeksi ei ole otettu aikakauslehtiä saati sensaatiolehtiä. Elementtien muodostama kokonaisuus mahdollistaa lukijalle monta eri reittiä edetä tekstissä; teksti on multilineaarinen. Tärkeimmiksi elementeiksi erottuvat valokuvat ja otsikot. Sekä kuvassa että otsikossa, juttutekstissä ja kuvatekstissä etualaistetaan sama henkilö. Etualaistettu henkilö esitetään usein valokuvassa kahden henkilön välillä aktiivisena toimijana, hän on otsikossa tekijä sekä juttutekstissä ja kuvatekstissä teema. Osa otsikoista on puhekuplassa, ja muutenkin otsikoissa on vallalla verbaalinen prosessityyppi. Kuvan henkilöt puhuvat suoraan lukijalle. Referaattiotsikoiden totuudellisuus on otettu aukeamalla rennosti. Tätä selitetään moniäänisyyden käsitteellä: kuvan henkilön ja palstan kirjoittajan äänet kuuluvat otsikoissa samanaikaisesti. Tärkeä tutkimustulos on se, että otsikoita ei ole merkitty referoinniksi tyypillisten referointikonventioiden tapaan, vaan johtolauseen paikan ja tehtävän täyttää valokuva. Kuva kehystää referaattiotsikon. Lukijaan otetaan läheinen kontakti: häntä pyydetään vastaamaan viikkokilpailuun, kuvien henkilöt vaativat katseellaan lukijaa osallistumaan, valokuvat on rajattu sosiaalisti läheisiksi, käytetään arkikieltä. Aineistoteksti on ennen kaikkea sosiaalista. Analyysissä osoitetaan tekstin tehtäviä, joita ovat sosiaalisuuden lisäksi mm. kaupallisuus, viihteellisyys ja juoruilu. Tekstipiirteistä erityisesti kirjasinlajit ja -leikkaukset nähdään interteksteinä muihin aikakauslehtiin. Aukeaman kokonaisuus tulkitaan analogiseksi kollaasitaiteen kanssa. Räväkät kuvat ja otsikot yhdessä juttu- ja kuvatekstien ym. elementtien kanssa muodostavat multisemioottisen kokonaisuuden, jossa koodien perinteiset tehtävät sekoittuvat: visuaalinen on myös verbaalista ja verbaalinen visuaalista.