Chinese fashion designers in Shanghai : identifying a fresh perspective about their role in the world order of fashion

Shanghai possesses an apt legacy, once referred to as “Paris of the East”. Municipal aspirations for Shanghai to assume a position among the great fashion cities of the world have been integrated in the recent re-shaping of this modern city into a role model for Chinese creative enterprise yet China is still known primarily as centre of clothing production. Increasingly however, “Made in China” is being replaced by “Created in China” drawing attention to two distinct consumer markets for Chinese designers. Fashion designers who have entered the global fashion system for education or by showing their collections have generally adopted a design aesthetic that aligns with Western markets, allowing little competitive advantage. In contrast, Chinese designers who rest their attention on the domestic Chinese market find a disparate, highly competitive marketplace. The pillars of authenticity that for foreign fashion brands extend far into their cultural and creative histories, often for many decades in the case of Louis Vuitton, Hermes and Christian Dior do not yet exist in China in this era of rapid globalisation. Here, the cultural bedrock allows these same pillars to extend only thirty years or so into the past reaching the moments when Deng Xiaoping granted China’s creative entrepreneurs passage. To this end, interviews with fashion designers in Shanghai have been undertaken during the last twelve months for a PhD dissertation. Production of culture theory has been used to identify working methods, practices of production and the social and cultural milieu necessary for designers to achieve viability.

Australian domestic violence protection order legislation : a comparative quantitative content analysis of victim safety provisions

In Australia, protection orders are a key legal response to domestic violence, and are often viewed as a way of providing for victim safety. For instance, recently the joint Australian and New South Wales Law Reform Commissions recommended that a common core purpose of all state and territory domestic violence legislation should be ‘to ensure or maximise the safety and protection of persons who fear or experience family violence’ (2010:Recommendation 7-4). Drawing and building upon prior research in Australia and the United States (‘US’), this paper uses comparative quantitative content analysis to assess the victim safety focus of domestic violence protection order legislation in each Australian state and territory. The findings of this analysis show that the Northern Territory, South Australia and Victoria ‘stand out’ from the other jurisdictions, having the highest victim safety focus in their legislation. However, there remains sizeable scope for improvement in all Australian jurisdictions, in terms of the victim safety focus of their legislative provisions and the considerations of legislative inconsistency between jurisdictions.

Second-order inelastic analysis of composite framed structures based on the refined plastic hinge method

Composite steel-concrete structures experience non-linear effects which arise from both instability-related geometric non-linearity and from material non-linearity in all of their component members. Because of this, conventional design procedures cannot capture the true behaviour of a composite frame throughout its full loading range, and so a procedure to account for those non-linearities is much needed. This paper therefore presents a numerical procedure capable of addressing geometric and material non-linearities at the strength limit state based on the refined plastic hinge method. Different material non-linearity for different composite structural components such as T-beams, concrete-filled tubular (CFT) and steel-encased reinforced concrete (SRC) sections can be treated using a routine numerical procedure for their section properties in this plastic hinge approach. Simple and conservative initial and full yield surfaces for general composite sections are proposed in this paper. The refined plastic hinge approach models springs at the ends of the element which are activated when the surface defining the interaction of bending and axial force at first yield is reached; a transition from the first yield interaction surface to the fully plastic interaction surface is postulated based on a proposed refined spring stiffness, which formulates the load-displacement relation for material non-linearity under the interaction of bending and axial actions. This produces a benign method for a beam-column composite element under general loading cases. Another main feature of this paper is that, for members containing a point of contraflexure, its location is determined with a simple application of the method herein and a node is then located at this position to reproduce the real flexural behaviour and associated material non-linearity of the member. Recourse is made to an updated Lagrangian formulation to consider geometric non-linear behaviour and to develop a non-linear solution strategy. The formulation with the refined plastic hinge approach is efficacious and robust, and so a full frame analysis incorporating geometric and material non-linearity is tractable. By way of contrast, the plastic zone approach possesses the drawback of strain-based procedures which rely on determining plastic zones within a cross-section and which require lengthwise integration. Following development of the theory, its application is illustrated with a number of varied examples.

Higher-order non-linear analysis of steel structures. Part I : elastic second-order formulation

This paper presents a higher-order beam-column formulation that can capture the geometrically non-linear behaviour of steel framed structures which contain a multiplicity of slender members. Despite advances in computational frame software, analyses of large frames can still be problematic from a numerical standpoint and so the intent of the paper is to fulfil a need for versatile, reliable and efficient non-linear analysis of general steel framed structures with very many members. Following a comprehensive review of numerical frame analysis techniques, a fourth-order element is derived and implemented in an updated Lagrangian formulation, and it is able to predict flexural buckling, snap-through buckling and large displacement post-buckling behaviour of typical structures whose responses have been reported by independent researchers. The solutions are shown to be efficacious in terms of a balance of accuracy and computational expediency. The higher-order element forms a basis for augmenting the geometrically non-linear approach with material non-linearity through the refined plastic hinge methodology described in the companion paper.

Higher-order non-linear analysis of steel structures. Part II : refined plastic hinge formulation

In the companion paper, a fourth-order element formulation in an updated Lagrangian formulation was presented to handle geometric non-linearities. The formulation of the present paper extends this to include material non-linearity by proposing a refined plastic hinge approach to analyse large steel framed structures with many members, for which contemporary algorithms based on the plastic zone approach can be problematic computationally. This concept is an advancement of conventional plastic hinge approaches, as the refined plastic hinge technique allows for gradual yielding, being recognized as distributed plasticity across the element section, a condition of full plasticity, as well as including strain hardening. It is founded on interaction yield surfaces specified analytically in terms of force resultants, and achieves accurate and rapid convergence for large frames for which geometric and material non-linearity are significant. The solutions are shown to be efficacious in terms of a balance of accuracy and computational expediency. In addition to the numerical efficiency, the present versatile approach is able to capture different kinds of material and geometric non-linearities on general applications of steel structures, and thereby it offers an efficacious and accurate means of assessing non-linear behaviour of the structures for engineering practice.

Second-order elastic finite element analysis of steel structures using a single element per member

Finite element frame analysis programs targeted for design office application necessitate algorithms which can deliver reliable numerical convergence in a practical timeframe with comparable degrees of accuracy, and a highly desirable attribute is the use of a single element per member to reduce computational storage, as well as data preparation and the interpretation of the results. To this end, a higher-order finite element method including geometric non-linearity is addressed in the paper for the analysis of elastic frames for which a single element is used to model each member. The geometric non-linearity in the structure is handled using an updated Lagrangian formulation, which takes the effects of the large translations and rotations that occur at the joints into consideration by accumulating their nodal coordinates. Rigid body movements are eliminated from the local member load-displacement relationship for which the total secant stiffness is formulated for evaluating the large member deformations of an element. The influences of the axial force on the member stiffness and the changes in the member chord length are taken into account using a modified bowing function which is formulated in the total secant stiffness relationship, for which the coupling of the axial strain and flexural bowing is included. The accuracy and efficiency of the technique is verified by comparisons with a number of plane and spatial structures, whose structural response has been reported in independent studies.

Direct second-order elastic analysis for steel frame design

The traditional structural design procedure, especially for the large-scale and complex structures, is time consuming and inefficient. This is due primarily to the fact that the traditional design takes the second-order effects indirectly by virtue of design specifications for every member instead of system analysis for a whole structure. Consequently, the complicated and tedious design procedures are inevitably necessary to consider the second-order effects for the member level in design specification. They are twofold in general: 1) Flexural buckling due to P-d effect, i.e. effective length. 2) Sway effect due to P-D effect, i.e. magnification factor. In this study, a new system design concept based on the second-order elastic analysis is presented, in which the second-order effects are taken into account directly in the system analysis, and also to avoid the tedious member-by-member stability check. The plastic design on the basis of this integrated method of direct approach is ignored in this paper for simplicity and clarity, as the only emphasis is placed on the difference between the second-order elastic limit-state design and present system design approach. A practical design example, a 57m-span dome steel skylight structure, is used to demonstrate the efficiency and effectiveness of the proposed approach. This skylight structure is also designed by the traditional design approach BS5950-2000 for comparison on which the emphasis of aforementioned P-d and P-D effects is placed.

The serious and playful work of gender : talk and social order in a preschool classroom

This chapter reports some observations made of the social interactions of girls and boys, aged 3 to 5 years, in play situations in a preschool classroom of a childcare centre. It provides an alternate framework for early childhood educators to become aware of how preschool children construct their gendered social organizations. As girls and boys organise and build their social worlds of play through their talk-in-interaction, they are building their social orders. In this chapter, an analysis of one episode of children's play has, as its focus , the methods that some girls and boys use in their talk and activity to make sense of their everyday interactions. The analysis of play shows the children's real life work of constructing and maintaining gendered social orders in their lived everyday social worlds. A close reading of the transcript of an episode illustrates how two girls turn they boys' masculine practices o ritualized threats into performance. By so doing, they show that while they know masculine discourse, and can perform it themselves, they do not actually 'own' it in the same way that the boys do. In this way, gender is established not as a social density but as a shaped dynamic practice that is ongoing, build by relational encounters and shaped by the collective performances of the participants.

Sentencing policy : the politics of law and order

Against the advice of their own parliamentary committees, and despite the experience of other jurisdictions, both the Government and Opposition parties seem to be intent on outbidding each other on mandatory sentencing regimes in the lead-up to the 2003 NSW election, says DAVID BROWN.

Shadow boxing with an imaginary enemy : a response to “law and order blues”

In our rejoinder to Don Weatherburn's paper, “Law and Order Blues”, we do not take issue with his advocacy of the need to take crime seriously and to foster a more rational approach to the problems it poses. Where differences do emerge is (1) with his claim that he is willing to do so whilst we (in our different ways) are not; and (2) on the question of what this involves. Of particular concern is the way in which his argument proceeds by a combination of simple misrepresentation of the positions it seeks to disparage, and silence concerning issues of real substance where intellectual debate and exchange would be welcome and useful. Our paper challenges, in turn, the misrepresentation of Indermaur's analysis of trends in violent crime, the misrepresentation of Hogg and Brown's Rethinking Law and Order, the misrepresentation of the findings of some of the research into the effectiveness of punitive policies and the silence on sexual assault in “Law and Order Blues”. We suggest that his silence on sexual assault reflects a more widespread unwillingness to acknowledge the methodological problems that arise in the measurement of crime because such problems severely limit the extent to which confident assertions can be made about prevalence and trends.

Molecular characterization of "Candidatus Parilichlamydia carangidicola," a novel Chlamydia-like epitheliocystis agent in yellowtail kingfish, Seriola lalandi (Valenciennes), and the proposal of a new family, "Candidatus Parilichlamydiaceae" fam. nov. (order Chlamydiales).

Three cohorts of farmed yellowtail kingfish (Seriola lalandi) from South Australia were examined for Chlamydia-like organisms associated with epitheliocystis. To characterize the bacteria, 38 gill samples were processed for histopathology, electron microscopy, and 16S rRNA amplification, sequencing, and phylogenetic analysis. Microscopically, the presence of membrane-enclosed cysts was observed within the gill lamellae. Also observed was hyperplasia of the epithelial cells with cytoplasmic vacuolization and fusion of the gill lamellae. Transmission electron microscopy revealed morphological features of the reticulate and intermediate bodies typical of members of the order Chlamydiales. A novel 1,393-bp 16S chlamydial rRNA sequence was amplified from gill DNA extracted from fish in all cohorts over a 3-year period that corresponded to the 16S rRNA sequence amplified directly from laser-dissected cysts. This sequence was only 87% similar to the reported "Candidatus Piscichlamydia salmonis" (AY462244) from Atlantic salmon and Arctic charr. Phylogenetic analysis of this sequence against 35 Chlamydia and Chlamydia-like bacteria revealed that this novel bacterium belongs to an undescribed family lineage in the order Chlamydiales. Based on these observations, we propose this bacterium of yellowtail kingfish be known as "Candidatus Parilichlamydia carangidicola" and that the new family be known as "Candidatus Parilichlamydiaceae."

Sequencing risk : the worst returns in their worst order

For the first of the baby boomers turning 65 years of age, after a decade littered with financial shocks (dot.com bubble, sub-prime, global financial crisis, sovereign debt), sequencing risk can represent a significant threat to their retirement nest eggs. This paper takes an outcomeoriented approach to the problem, to provide practical insights into how sequencing risk works and the critical dependency of retirement outcomes on sequencing risk. Our analysis challenges the conventional wisdom that it is the accumulated average of investment returns that matter. We show, instead, that it is the realised sequence of returns which largely determines the sustainability of retirement incomes.

The return of the mail-order bridegroom

Co-producer of this contemporary music album.