Slow fashion and sustainability in Spain: How can local manufacturing improve sustainability and how do consumers respond?

"Slow Fashion" attempts to offset the demand for fast fashion and mass production (Fletcher, 2007). Consumers' response to sustainability-based practices is a limited discourse and studies for slow fashion concept are scarce. This study thus aims to enlighten the subject of how slow fashion concept could improve local economies and how Spanish consumers respond to such initiatives. This paper is based on an exploratory qualitative research for which focus group interviews including three group discussions with Spanish consumers were held. The data was examined by constant comparison analysis to present consumer insights. Moreover, a case study was conducted with a Spanish apparel brand. Saint Brissant was chosen since it manufactures in Spain to (i) ensure its products? high quality and (ii) to empower Spanish economy. This paper provides empirical insights. Even though local manufacturing was perceived to have a higher quality, Spanish consumers? behavioural intentions of using local brands were not high.Self-interest, mainly price and design, was recorded as the most influential purchase criteria. Furthermore, Saint Brissant case demonstrated that local manufacturing could boost local economies by creating workforce. However, governmental subsidies should be rearranged and consumers? perceptions should be improved to support local manufacturers in Spain.

Fashion in Actions on Social Media – Spanish SME Fashion Brands Case Studies

Fashion is one of the most vibrant sectors in Europe and important contributors to the European Union (EU) economy. In particular, Small and Medium Enterprises (SMEs) play a major part in European fashion industry (EU 2012). Just like fashion, where people¿s style has inherently meant to be shared as it is foremost a representation of one¿s self-image, social media allow the reflection of ones' personality and emotions. Although fashion practitioners have embraced social media in their marketing activities, it is still relatively few known at an academic level about the specificities of fashion industry when approaching social media marketing (SMM) strategies. This study sets out to explore fashion companies' SMM strategy and its activities. From an exploratory approach, we present case studies of two Spanish SME fashion companies, anonymously named hereafter as Company A and Company B, to deepen our understanding on how fashion brands implement their SMM strategy. Company A offers high-end fashion products while Company B produces medium fashion products. We analyzed the case studies using qualitative (interviews to companies' executives) and a mix of qualitative and quantitative (content analysis of companies' social media platform) methods. Public posts data of both companies' Facebook brand pages were used to perform the content analysis. Our findings through case studies of the two companies reveal that branding-oriented strategic objectives are the main drivers of their SMM implementations. There are significant differences between both companies. The main strategic action employed by Company A is engaging customers to participate into brand's offline social gathering events by inviting them through social media platform, while Company B focuses its effort on posting product promotion related contents and engaging influencers such as fashion bloggers. Our results are expected to serve as a basis of further investigations on how SMM strategy and strategic actions implemented by fashion brands may influence marketing outcomes.

Celebração midiática e cultura: o "olhar ilustrado" da Folha de S. Paulo sobre a São Paulo Fashion Week 2006

Entender o campo da moda como um universo que reflete atitudes e sentimentos da vida social do homem-comum se constitui a base desta pesquisa. Para compreender melhor de que forma a moda aparece assim configurada, faz-se necessário desvendar os adornos com os quais a mídia da cultura de massa trabalha neste campo. Com a proposta de enxergar como os valores transformadores do campo estão atuantes na mídia, a partir de uma leitura interpretativa, optamos por analisar o enfoque dado pelo caderno Ilustrada da Folha de S. Paulo ao maior evento de moda do Brasil a São Paulo Fashion Week, na sua edição de julho de 2006. Desta forma, apresentamos os aspectos da cultura de massa que estão diretamente relacionados ao campo da moda e de que maneira estes aspectos foram enquadrados nos textos da Folha, no processo de celebração do evento.(AU)

Celebração midiática e cultura: o "olhar ilustrado" da Folha de S. Paulo sobre a São Paulo Fashion Week 2006

Entender o campo da moda como um universo que reflete atitudes e sentimentos da vida social do homem-comum se constitui a base desta pesquisa. Para compreender melhor de que forma a moda aparece assim configurada, faz-se necessário desvendar os adornos com os quais a mídia da cultura de massa trabalha neste campo. Com a proposta de enxergar como os valores transformadores do campo estão atuantes na mídia, a partir de uma leitura interpretativa, optamos por analisar o enfoque dado pelo caderno Ilustrada da Folha de S. Paulo ao maior evento de moda do Brasil a São Paulo Fashion Week, na sua edição de julho de 2006. Desta forma, apresentamos os aspectos da cultura de massa que estão diretamente relacionados ao campo da moda e de que maneira estes aspectos foram enquadrados nos textos da Folha, no processo de celebração do evento.(AU)

KARP-1 is induced by DNA damage in a p53- and ataxia telangiectasia mutated-dependent fashion

The KARP-1 (Ku86 Autoantigen Related Protein-1) gene, which is expressed from the human Ku86 autoantigen locus, appears to play a role in mammalian DNA double-strand break repair as a regulator of the DNA-dependent protein kinase complex. Here we demonstrate that KARP-1 gene expression is significantly up-regulated following exposure of cells to DNA damage. KARP-1 mRNA induction was completely dependent on the ataxia telangiectasia and p53 gene products, consistent with the presence of a p53 binding site within the second intron of the KARP-1 locus. These observations link ataxia telangiectasia, p53, and KARP-1 in a common pathway.

Host factor I, Hfq, binds to Escherichia coli ompA mRNA in a growth rate-dependent fashion and regulates its stability

The stability of the ompA mRNA depends on the bacterial growth rate. The 5′ untranslated region is the stability determinant of this transcript and the target of the endoribonuclease, RNase E, the key player of mRNA degradation. An RNA-binding protein with affinity for the 5′ untranslated region ompA was purified and identified as Hfq, a host factor initially recognized for its function in phage Qβ replication. The ompA RNA-binding activity parallels the amount of Hfq, which is elevated in bacteria cultured at slow growth rate, a condition leading to facilitated degradation of the ompA mRNA. In hfq mutant cells with a deficient Hfq gene product, the RNA-binding activity is missing, and analysis of the ompA mRNA showed that the growth-rate dependence of degradation is lost. Furthermore, the half-life of the ompA mRNA is prolonged in the mutant cells, irrespective of growth rate. Hfq has no affinity for the lpp transcript whose degradation, like that of bulk mRNA, is not affected by bacterial growth rate. Compatible with our results, we found that the intracellular concentration of RNase E and its associated degradosome components is independent of bacterial growth rate. Thus our results suggest a regulatory role for Hfq that specifically facilitates the ompA mRNA degradation in a growth rate-dependent manner.

Protective anti-tumor immunity induced by vaccination with recombinant adenoviruses encoding multiple tumor-associated cytotoxic T lymphocyte epitopes in a string-of-beads fashion

Vaccines harboring genes that encode functional oncoproteins are intrinsically hazardous, as their application may lead to introduction of these genes into normal cells and thereby to tumorigenesis. On the other hand, oncoproteins are especially attractive targets for immunotherapy of cancer, as their expression is generally required for tumor growth, making the arisal of tumor variants lacking these antigens unlikely. Using murine tumor models, we investigated the efficacy of polyepitope recombinant adenovirus (rAd) vaccines, which encode only the immunogenic T cell epitopes derived from several oncogenes, for the induction of protective anti-tumor immunity. We chose to employ rAd, as these are safe vectors that do not induce the side effects associated with, for example, vaccinia virus vaccines. A single polyepitope rAd was shown to give rise to presentation of both H-2 and human leukocyte antigen-restricted cytotoxic T lymphocyte (CTL) epitopes. Moreover, vaccination with a rAd encoding H-2-restricted CTL epitopes, derived from human adenovirus type 5 early region 1 and human papilloma virus type 16-induced tumors, elicited strong tumor-reactive CTL and protected the vaccinated animals against an otherwise lethal challenge with either of these tumors. The protection induced was superior compared with that obtained by vaccination with irradiated tumor cells. Thus, vaccination with polyepitope rAd is a powerful approach for the induction of protective anti-tumor immunity that allows simultaneous immunization against multiple tumor-associated T cell epitopes, restricted by various major histocompatibility complex haplotypes.

The Perks of Playing Dress-Up: Psychological Impressions of Fashion and Feminism.

Research on the psychological impact of women's fashion has focused on fashion's negative influence over how women think and feel about themselves. Several studies have examined the relationship between fashion and women's self-appraisals (Martin & Gentry, 1997; Pinhas, Toner, Ali, Garfinkel, & Stuckless, 1999; Tiggemann, Polivy, & Hargreaves, 2009), although few investigations have explored the range of viewpoints that arise when women interact with their own personal style or with other forms of fashion media. This paper presents a narrative review of what has been written about fashion in clinical research. I briefly discuss why this is an important topic and why fashion has psychological meaning. Cognitive behavioral therapy (CBT) is considered in the exploration of fashion's impact on conjuring unproductive and productive schemas (Beck, 1976; Wright, Basco, & Thase, 2006). This discussion includes a presentation of interviews with female consultants, hypothetical examples, my own accounts, and feminist perspectives. While emphasizing the potential biases of women's interactions with fashion, I discuss matters of gender performance and reflections on clinical work. The purpose of this article is to present a pro-social defense of fashion. I do this by acquiring personal chronicles, applying those findings to the current body of research, and adding to the continued investigation of why women's fashion is still important in a postfeminist world.

Fashion films as a new communication format to build fashion brands

The consolidation of collaborative video platforms such as YouTube and Vimeo in recent years has significantly changed the way fashion brands communicate with their audiences. Fashion films have emerged as a new and revolutionary tool adopted by luxury brands at the start of the XXI Century to construct their brands. A sample of 62 fashion films from 2006 to 2016 was analyzed in order to describe fashion film’s anatomy and its main characteristics that constitute an especial type of branded content, originated by brands in their quest for exclusivity and authenticity. As a distinctive type of experiential marketing mostly used by luxury fashion brands, they would become a new communication strategy for mainstream brands, but also allow the discovery of a profound connection with consumers through audiovisual narration.

False anglicisms in the Spanish language of fashion and beauty

Many works have already dealt with anglicisms in Spanish, especially in science and information technologies. However, despite the high and growing number of English terms incorporated daily by the language of fashion, it has received comparative less attention in lexicographic and terminological studies than that of other areas, such as science or business. For several reasons, which include prestige or peer pressure, Spanish has not only adopted English words with new meanings and usage, but also contains other forms based on English patterns which users seem to consider more accurate or expressive. This paper concentrates on false anglicisms as indicators of some of the special relationships and influences between languages arising from the pervasive presence of English. We shall look at the Spanish language of fashion, which, in addition to genuine anglicisms, has for some time been using English words with different meanings, or even created items of its own (or imported them from other languages) with the appearance of English words. These false anglicisms, which have proven extremely popular in receiving languages (not only in Spanish) have frequently been disseminated by youth magazines and the new digital media, both in general spheres and in fashion-specific contexts.

The influence of English on Spanish fashion terminology: -ing forms

As has been the case with other European languages, Spanish has welcomed the arrival of English words, in spite of all purist efforts to the contrary. Moreover, it has not only adopted and adapted true Anglicisms but it has also created other forms based on English patterns, such mechanisms particularly visible in the fashion jargon in Spanish. In this paper we focus on -ing forms in the Spanish language of fashion, which may at times be genuine Anglicisms (formal or semantic ones) or false Anglicisms (analogical creations, that is, English-looking lexical elements), found in Spanish editions of fashion magazines such as Vogue, Elle, InStyle, Grazia, Glamour, and Cosmopolitan. The main aim of this study is to qualitatively analyse and classify -ing Anglicisms and false Anglicisms in the aforementioned jargon in order to establish whether the impact of English in the Spanish fashion jargon is so important as to replace native words and expressions.

The business of fashion in the nineteenth and twentieth centuries

Fashion is a complex social and cultural phenomenon with strong economic implications. Historical analysis reveals that the mechanisms of creating and spreading fashion have not remained constant, but have varied according to social structures, forms of producing and distributing apparel and social media, while the level of influence of fashion on society has increased in line with economic development. This special issue of Investigaciones de Historia Económica-Economic History Research is dedicated to fashion as an economic phenomenon in the contemporary period. The four articles which make it up show the plurality of the subject areas, sources and methodological approaches in the current research on this topic.

Fashion opinion leadership, innovativeness and attitude toward advertising among Portuguese consumers

In the context of the fashion market, this study aims to analyze opinion leadership and, specifically, to verify the correlation that may exist between opinion leadership, fashion innovativeness and attitude towards fashion advertising. It is also intended to identify two different consumer groups: opinion leaders and fashion followers based on “opinion leadership” construct. Data collection was done through a self-administered questionnaire with a convenience sample of 203 graduate and postgraduate students of two universities of Porto, the second major city of Portugal. Results show a positive correlation between fashion innovativeness, fashion opinion leadership, and attitude towards fashion advertising. It was possible to identify two groups of consumers: fashion influencers, who exhibit a moderate sense of innovativeness and a positive attitude towards fashion advertising; and fashion followers who don’t consider themselves neither innovators nor opinion leaders, but have a moderate positive attitude towards fashion advertising.