Vida y Muerte Empresarial. Caso de estudio Jeans and Jackets.

Dentro de este estudio de caso se busca identificar las posibles causas por las cuales una empresa de alto prestigio y reconocimiento por los consumidores colombianos, como lo era Jeans and Jackets, luego de treinta (30) años de funcionamiento se vio en la necesidad de acogerse a la Ley de Reestructuración Económica (Ley 550 de 1999) con el fin de reestructurar sus pasivos en un momento de crisis global que fue impredecible para muchas compañías. Desde el principio, el “Core Business” de Jeans and Jackets era la venta de prendas sofisticadas y de alta calidad a los jóvenes, especialmente en la capital de la República, con el fin de convertirse en la marca líder de este segmento de la industria. Este estudio de caso pretende identificar cuáles fueron las decisiones estratégicas implementadas por parte de la alta gerencia de la compañía en el contexto mencionado anteriormente que llevaron a la empresa a una crisis de liquidez. La metodología utilizada para el desarrollo de este estudio de caso se basa en variables cualitativas que permitan realizar un análisis profundo y la indagación sobre el fenómeno de morbilidad empresarial; De la misma manera se utilizan variables cuantitativas para observar la situación de la empresa financieramente y el desempeño económico de la misma.

A influência da exportação no desenvolvimento de arranjos produtivos locais de moda no estado do Rio de Janeiro

In recent years, clusters have become a central part in discussions about local and regional economic development, as well as in the elaboration of public policies for generating jobs and income. Concurrent with the discussions about clusters, the subject globalization has also received growing attention from the media in the academic and government fields. Different aspects are considered in the discussions regarding globalization and one of the subjects is the insertion of local economies into international commerce. One of these ways of insertion is by global value chains. This term began to be used at the end of 90s, and refers to the productive value chains dispersed throughout the world, but with integrated production and commercialization. The aim of this thesis is to understand how the exportation process influences the development of fashion clusters, this being done by the insertion of these clusters into the global value chains. Each year, the Brazilian fashion sector seeks to broaden their participation in the global economy by means of insertion into the global value chains. This insertion, however, has caused impacts in specialized clusters of garment manufacturers, such as beach fashion, jeans and women¿s clothing. As a way of identifying these impacts, three cluster manufacturers were studied in the state of Rio de Janeiro, namely Cabo Frio, São Gonçalo and Niterói. The impacts of internationalization on the companies integrated into these three clusters were explored by means of a six-month field study, including semistructured interviews. This internationalization occurs either by direct exportation or by means of inserting these companies into the global value chains. The results of the study points out the opportunities and threats to these companies, as well as shows the importance of more adequate public policies for the development of Brazilian fashion clusters. Among these threats, the possibility of inserting these cluster companies into the global value chains in a captive manner (Gereffi, Humphrey, Sturgeon, 2005) was singled out, placing them ¿under control¿ of the exporting companies. As for opportunities, the participation of government support agencies and improvements in fashion show good alternatives for inserting these companies into the global value chains, making possible autonomous and competitive performance.

Desenvolvimento de circuitos planares sobre substratos têxteis

The use of flexible materials for the development of planar circuits is one of the most desired and studied characteristics, lately, by researchers. This happens because the flexibility of the substrate can provide previously impracticable applications, due to the rigidity of the substrates normally used that makes it difficult to fit into the circuits in irregular surfaces. The constant interest in recent years for more lighter devices, increasingly more compacts, flexible and with low cost, led to a new line of research of great interest from both academic and technological views, that is the study and development of textile substrates that can be applied in the development of planar circuits, for applications in the areas of security, biomedical and telecommunications. This paper proposes the development of planar circuits, such as antennas , frequency selective surfaces (FSS) and planar filters, using textile (cotton ticking, jeans and brim santista) as the dielectric substrate and the Pure Copper Polyester Taffeta Fabric, a textile of pure copper, highly conductive, lightweight and flexible, commercially sold as a conductive material. The electrical characteristics of textiles (electric permittivity and loss tangent) were characterized using the transmission line method (rectangular waveguide) and compared with those found in the literature. The structures were analyzed using commercial software Ansoft Designer and Ansoft HFSS, both from the company Ansys and for comparison we used the Iterative Method of Waves (WCIP). For the purpose of validation were built and measured several prototypes of antennas, planar filters and FSS, being possible to confirm an excellent agreement between simulated and measured results

Formação de preços: uma investigação sobre os atributos envolvidos na definição de preços de produtos de vestuário

Este estudo visa compreender a relação entre os atributos intrínsecos e extrínsecos do produto calça jeans e o seu preço no varejo, tendo como objetivo específico analisar a influência separadamente dos atributos intrínsecos e extrínsecos sobre os preços. Para tanto, utiliza-se da teoria de atributos proposta por Lancaster (1966) e dos métodos de preços hedônicos propostos por Rosen (1974), por meio dos quais é possível observar a importância dos pacotes de atributos intrínsecos e extrínsecos sobre os preços, bem como observar a constituição de pacotes de atributos para diferentes perfis econômicos de consumidores. Foram analisadas 12 categorias de atributos sendo 5 de atributos intrínsecos e outras 7 de atributos extrínsecos. A coleta de dados foi realizada por meio de observação e a pesquisa foi realizada no período de 01 de julho a 31 de julho de 2015 nos maiores shoppings centers e principais lojas de ruas de São Paulo. A partir dos dados coletados, foram realizadas regressão múltipla e a regressão quantílica. A regressão múltipla apresentou o R2 de 58%, nessa análise os principais atributos que influenciam são: loja premium, venda assistida, origem da loja, tamanho da loja (megaloja), tamanho da loja (ampla), lavagem destroyed, resina, modelo flare, lavagem dirty, localização da loja (rua ou shopping), complementos, modelo skinny insumos elastano e poliéster. A regressão quantílica proporciou a análise para 10% das calças mais caras e para os 10% das calças mais baratas. Para as calças mais caras o R2 é de 45% para as calças mais caras há mais atributos extrínsecos do que atributos do produto interferindo no preço, são eles: os insumos poliéster e elastano, lavagem e resinagem, origem da marca da loja, posicionamento da marca, venda assistida, localização da loja, cartão de crédito - private label (nesse caso influenciando negativamente), e tamanho da loja, todos extrínsecos ao produto, se mostraram relevantes para o processo de precificação das calças jeans mais caras observadas nesse estudo. Já para as calças mais baratas, com R2 de 27%, parece haver um equilíbrio entre o número de variáveis intrínsecas e extrínsecas que interferem no preço das calças jeans mais baratas, pois somente a modelagem (atributo intrínseco) e cartão private label (atributo extrínseco) parecem não interferir na precificação. Concluiu-se que há mais atributos extrínsecos que influenciam o preço da calça jeans no varejo.

Preloaded RC columns strengthened with high-strength concrete jackets under uniaxial compression

Although use of high-strength reinforced concrete (RC) jackets has become common practice worldwide, there are still two unresolved issues regarding the contribution of the original concrete and the effects of existing loads. Twelve RC-jacketed columns were tested with and without preloading under uniaxial compression. Tests showed the entire core to contribute to the capacity of the jacketed column, as long as adequate confinement is provided. Also, preloading does not adversely affect the capacity of the jacketed column, while it may increase its deformability, especially in square sections. Transverse reinforcement in the jacket directly improves ductility of the strengthened column, especially in circular sections.

Isolation and characterization of a cone snail protease with homology to CRISP proteins of the pathogenesis-related protein superfamily

The pathogenesis-related (PR) protein superfamily is widely distributed in the animal, plant, and fungal kingdoms and is implicated in human brain tumor growth and plant pathogenesis. The precise biological activity of PR proteins, however, has remained elusive. Here we report the characterization, cloning and structural homology modeling of Tex31 from the venom duct of Conus textile. Tex31 was isolated to >95% purity by activity-guided fractionation using a para-nitroanilide substrate based on the putative cleavage site residues found in the propeptide precursor of conotoxin TxVIA. Tex31 requires four residues including a leucine N-terminal of the cleavage site for efficient substrate processing. The sequence of Tex31 was determined using two degenerate PCR primers designed from N-terminal and tryptic digest Edman sequences. A BLAST search revealed that Tex31 was a member of the PR protein superfamily and most closely related to the CRISP family of mammalian proteins that have a cysteine-rich C-terminal tail. A homology model constructed from two PR proteins revealed that the likely catalytic residues in Tex31 fall within a structurally conserved domain found in PR proteins. Thus, it is possible that other PR proteins may also be substrate-specific proteases.

Fragmentation of massive dense cores down to <~ 1000 AU: relation between fragmentation and density structure

In order to shed light on the main physical processes controlling fragmentation of massive dense cores, we present a uniform study of the density structure of 19 massive dense cores, selected to be at similar evolutionary stages, for which their relative fragmentation level was assessed in a previous work. We inferred the density structure of the 19 cores through a simultaneous fit of the radial intensity profiles at 450 and 850 μm (or 1.2 mm in two cases) and the spectral energy distribution, assuming spherical symmetry and that the density and temperature of the cores decrease with radius following power-laws. Even though the estimated fragmentation level is strictly speaking a lower limit, its relative value is significant and several trends could be explored with our data. We find a weak (inverse) trend of fragmentation level and density power-law index, with steeper density profiles tending to show lower fragmentation, and vice versa. In addition, we find a trend of fragmentation increasing with density within a given radius, which arises from a combination of flat density profile and high central density and is consistent with Jeans fragmentation. We considered the effects of rotational-to-gravitational energy ratio, non-thermal velocity dispersion, and turbulence mode on the density structure of the cores, and found that compressive turbulence seems to yield higher central densities. Finally, a possible explanation for the origin of cores with concentrated density profiles, which are the cores showing no fragmentation, could be related with a strong magnetic field, consistent with the outcome of radiation magnetohydrodynamic simulations.

Reúso de água no processamento de jeans na indústria têxtil

This study aims to assess the potential for industrial reuse of textile wastewater, after passing through a physical and chemical pretreatment, into denim washing wet processing operations in an industrial textile laundry, with no need for complementary treatments and dilutions. The methodology and evaluation of the proposed tests were based on the production techniques used in the company and upgraded for the experiments tested. The characterization of the treated effluent for 16 selected parameters and the development of a monitoring able to tailor the treated effluent for final disposal in accordance with current legislation was essential for the initiation of testing for reuse. The parameters color, turbidity, SS and pH used were satisfactory as control variables and presents simple determination methods. The denim quality variables considered were: color, odor, appearance and soft handle. The tests were started on a pilot scale following complexity factors attributed to the processes, in denim fabric and jeans, which demonstrated the possibility of reuse, because there was no interference in the processes and at quality of the tested product. Industrial scale tests were initiated by a step control that confirmed the methodology efficiency applied to identify the possibility of reuse by tests that precede each recipe to be processed. 556 replicates were performed in production scale for 47 different recipes of denim washing. The percentage of water reuse was 100% for all processes and repetitions performed after the initial adjustment testing phase. All the jeans were framed with the highest quality for internal control and marketed, being accepted by contractors. The full-scale use of treated wastewater, supported by monitoring and evaluation and control methodology suggested in this study, proved to be valid in textile production, not given any negative impact to the quality the produced jeans under the presented conditions. It is believed that this methodology can be extrapolated to other laundries to determine the possibility of reuse in denim washing wet processing with the necessary modifications to each company.

Noise and ultraviolet divergences in the dynamics of the chiral condensate in QCD

The time evolution of the matter produced in high energy heavy-ion collisions seems to be well described by relativistic viscous hydrodynamics. In addition to the hydrodynamic degrees of freedom related to energy-momentum conservation, degrees of freedom associated with order parameters of broken continuous symmetries must be considered because they are all coupled to each other. of particular interest is the coupling of degrees of freedom associated with the chiral symmetry of QCD. Quantum and thermal fluctuations of the chiral fields act as noise sources in the classical equations of motion, turning them into stochastic differential equations in the form of Ginzburg-Landau-Langevin (GLL) equations. Analytic solutions of GLL equations are attainable only in very special circumstances and extensive numerical simulations are necessary, usually by discretizing the equations on a spatial lattice. However, a not much appreciated issue in the numerical simulations of GLL equations is that ultraviolet divergences in the form of lattice-spacing dependence plague the solutions. The divergences are related to the well-known Rayleigh-Jeans catastrophe in classical field theory. In the present communication we present a systematic lattice renormalization method to control the catastrophe. We discuss the implementation of the method for a GLL equation derived in the context of a model for the QCD chiral phase transition and consider the nonequilibrium evolution of the chiral condensate during the hydrodynamic flow of the quark-gluon plasma.

Influence of advanced load simulation models on fatigue design of jackets for offshore wind turbines.

Constant developments in the field of offshore wind energy have increased the range of water depths at which wind farms are planned to be installed. Therefore, in addition to monopile support structures suitable in shallow waters (up to 30 m), different types of support structures, able to withstand severe sea conditions at the greater water depths, have been developed. For water depths above 30 m, the jacket is one of the preferred support types. Jacket represents a lightweight support structure, which, in combination with complex nature of environmental loads, is prone to highly dynamic behavior. As a consequence, high stresses with great variability in time can be observed in all structural members. The highest concentration of stresses occurs in joints due to their nature (structural discontinuities) and due to the existence of notches along the welds present in the joints. This makes them the weakest elements of the jacket in terms of fatigue. In the numerical modeling of jackets for offshore wind turbines, a reduction of local stresses at the chord-brace joints, and consequently an optimization of the model, can be achieved by implementing joint flexibility in the chord-brace joints. Therefore, in this work, the influence of joint flexibility on the fatigue damage in chord-brace joints of a numerical jacket model, subjected to advanced load simulations, is studied.

The dynamics of early-type galaxies as a tool to understand their hot coronae and their IMF

Dynamical models of galaxies are a powerful tool to study and understand several astrophysical problems related to galaxy formation and evolution. This thesis is focussed on a particular type of dynamical models, that are widely used in literature, and are based on the solution of the Jeans equations. By means of a numerical Jeans solver code, developed on purpose and able to build state-of-the-art advanced axisymmetric galaxy models, two of the main currently investigated issues in the field of research of early-type galaxies (ETGs) are addressed. The first topic concerns the hot and X-ray emitting gaseous coronae that surround ETGs. The main goal is to explain why flat and rotating galaxies generally exhibit haloes with lower gas temperatures and luminosities with respect to rounder and velocity dispersion supported systems. The second astrophysical problem addressed concerns instead the stellar initial mass function (IMF) of ETGs. Nowadays, this is a very controversial issue due to a growing number of works on ETGs, based on different and independent techniques, that show evidences of a systematic variation of the IMF normalization as a function of galaxy velocity dispersion or mass. These studies are changing the previous opinion that the IMF of ETGs was the same as that of spiral galaxies, and hence universal throughout the whole large family of galaxies.

Asymmetric drift and halo flattening in disk galaxies

The main result in this work is the solution of the Jeans equations for an axisymmetric galaxy model containing a baryonic component (distributed according to a Miyamoto-Nagai profile) and a dark matter halo (described by the Binney logarithmic potential). The velocity dispersion, azimuthal velocity and some other interesting quantities such as the asymmetric drift are studied, along with the influence of the model parameters on these (observable) quantities. We also give an estimate for the velocity of the radial flow, caused by the asymmetric drift. Other than the mathematical beauty that lies in solving a model analytically, the interest of this kind of results can be mainly found in numerical simulations that study the evolution of gas flows. For example, it is important to know how certain parameters such as the shape (oblate, prolate, spherical) of a dark matter halo, or the flattening of the baryonic matter, or the mass ratio between dark and baryonic matter, have an influence on observable quantities such as the velocity dispersion. In the introductory chapter, we discuss the Jeans equations, which provide information about the velocity dispersion of a system. Next we will consider some dynamical quantities that will be useful in the rest of the work, e.g. the asymmetric drift. In Chapter 2 we discuss in some more detail the family of galaxy models we studied. In Chapter 3 we give the solution of the Jeans equations. Chapter 4 describes and illustrates the behaviour of the velocity dispersion, as a function of the several parameters, along with asymptotic expansions. In Chapter 5 we will investigate the behaviour of certain dynamical quantities for this model. We conclude with a discussion in Chapter 6.

The nitrogen costs of photosynthesis in a diatom under current and future pCO2

With each cellular generation, oxygenic photoautotrophs must accumulate abundant protein complexes that mediate light capture, photosynthetic electron transport and carbon fixation. In addition to this net synthesis, oxygenic photoautotrophs must counter the light-dependent photoinactivation of Photosystem II (PSII), using metabolically expensive proteolysis, disassembly, resynthesis and re-assembly of protein subunits. We used growth rates, elemental analyses and protein quantitations to estimate the nitrogen (N) metabolism costs to both accumulate the photosynthetic system and to maintain PSII function in the diatom Thalassiosira pseudonana, growing at two pCO2 levels across a range of light levels. The photosynthetic system contains c. 15-25% of total cellular N. Under low growth light, N (re)cycling through PSII repair is only c. 1% of the cellular N assimilation rate. As growth light increases to inhibitory levels, N metabolite cycling through PSII repair increases to c. 14% of the cellular N assimilation rate. Cells growing under the assumed future 750 ppmv pCO2 show higher growth rates under optimal light, coinciding with a lowered N metabolic cost to maintain photosynthesis, but then suffer greater photoinhibition of growth under excess light, coincident with rising costs to maintain photosynthesis. We predict this quantitative trait response to light will vary across taxa.