Sunscreen penetration of human skin and related keratinocyte toxicity after topical application

Sunscreen skin penetration and safety assessment should be considered together in order to ensure that in vitro cytotoxicity studies examine relevant doses of these organic chemical UV filters to which viable epidermal cells are realistically exposed. In this study, we sought to determine whether sufficient topically applied sunscreens penetrated into human viable epidermis to put the local keratinocyte cell populations at risk of toxicity. The penetration and retention of five commonly used sunscreen agents ( avobenzone, octinoxate, octocrylene, oxybenzone and padimate O) in human skin was evaluated after application in mineral oil to isolated human epidermal membranes. Sunscreen concentration - human keratinocyte culture response curves were then defined using changes in cell morphology and proliferation ( DNA synthesis using radiolabelled thymidine uptake studies) as evidence of sunscreens causing toxicity. Following 24 h of human epidermal exposure to sunscreens, detectable amounts of all sunscreens were present in the stratum corneum and viable epidermis, with epidermal penetration most evident with oxybenzone. The concentrations of each sunscreen found in human viable epidermis after topical application, adjusting for skin partitioning and binding effects, were at least 5-fold lower, based on levels detected in viable epidermal cells, than those appearing to cause toxicity in cultured human keratinocytes. It is concluded that the human viable epidermal levels of sunscreens are too low to cause any significant toxicity to the underlying human keratinocytes. Copyright (C) 2005 S. Karger AG, Basel.

Determination of the effect of lipophilicity on the in vitro permeability and tissue reservoir characteristics of topically applied solutes in human skin layers

In order to establish the relationship between solute lipophilicity and skin penetration (including flux and concentration behavior), we examined the in vitro penetration and membrane concentration of a series of homologous alcohols (C2-C10) applied topically in aqueous solutions to human epidermal, full-thickness, and dermal membranes. The partitioning/distribution of each alcohol between the donor solution, stratum corneum, viable epidermis, dermis, and receptor phase compartments was determined during the penetration process and separately to isolated samples of each tissue type. Maximum flux and permeability coefficients are compared for each membrane and estimates of alcohol diffusivity are made based on flux/concentration data and also the related tissue resistance (the reciprocal of permeability coefficient) for each membrane type. The permeability coefficient increased with increasing lipophilicity to alcohol C8 (octanol) with no further increase for C10 (decanol). Log vehicle:stratum corneum partition coefficients were related to logP , and the concentration of alcohols in each of the tissue layers appeared to increase with lipophilicity. No difference was measured in the diffusivity of smaller more polar alcohols in the three membranes; however, the larger more lipophilic solutes showed slower diffusivity values. The study showed that the dermis may be a much more lipophilic environment than originally believed and that distribution of smaller nonionized solutes into local tissues below a site of topical application may be estimated based on knowledge of their lipophilicity alone.

A new alternative method for testing skin irritation using a human skin model: a pilot study.

Studies assessing skin irritation to chemicals have traditionally used laboratory animals; however, such methods are questionable regarding their relevance for humans. New in vitro methods have been validated, such as the reconstructed human epidermis (RHE) model (Episkin®, Epiderm®). The comparison (accuracy) with in vivo results such as the 4-h human patch test (HPT) is 76% at best (Epiderm®). There is a need to develop an in vitro method that better simulates the anatomo-pathological changes encountered in vivo. To develop an in vitro method to determine skin irritation using human viable skin through histopathology, and compare the results of 4 tested substances to the main in vitro methods and in vivo animal method (Draize test). Human skin removed during surgery was dermatomed and mounted on an in vitro flow-through diffusion cell system. Ten chemicals with known non-irritant (heptylbutyrate, hexylsalicylate, butylmethacrylate, isoproturon, bentazon, DEHP and methylisothiazolinone (MI)) and irritant properties (folpet, 1-bromohexane and methylchloroisothiazolinone (MCI/MI)), a negative control (sodiumchloride) and a positive control (sodiumlaurylsulphate) were applied. The skin was exposed at least for 4h. Histopathology was performed to investigate irritation signs (spongiosis, necrosis, vacuolization). We obtained 100% accuracy with the HPT model; 75% with the RHE models and 50% with the Draize test for 4 tested substances. The coefficients of variation (CV) between our three test batches were <0.1, showing good reproducibility. Furthermore, we reported objectively histopathological irritation signs (irritation scale): strong (folpet), significant (1-bromohexane), slight (MCI/MI at 750/250ppm) and none (isoproturon, bentazon, DEHP and MI). This new in vitro test method presented effective results for the tested chemicals. It should be further validated using a greater number of substances; and tested in different laboratories in order to suitably evaluate reproducibility.

Percutaneous absorption of steroids: Determination of in vitro permeability and tissue reservoir characteristics in human skin layers

The skin localization of steroids following topical application is largely unknown. We determined the distribution of five steroids in human skin using excised epidermal, dermal, and full-thickness membranes in vitro. There was no significant difference in steroid maximum flux through epidermal and full-thickness membranes, other than significantly lower fluxes for the most polar steroid, aldosterone. Hydrocortisone had the highest dermal diffusivity and dermal penetration, and the accumulation of hydrocortisone and corticosterone was higher than that of the other steroids. Slower penetration and higher accumulation in the viable epidermis of progesterone in full-thickness skin were consistent with dermal penetration limitation effects associated with high lipophilicity. Copyright (c) 2006 S. Karger AG, Basel

Skin Penetration of Epigallocatechin-3-Gallate and Quercetin from Green Tea and Ginkgo biloba Extracts Vehiculated in Cosmetic Formulations

Green tea (Camellia sinensis) and Ginkgo biloba extracts in cosmetic formulations have been suggested to protect the skin against UV-induced damage and skin ageing. Thus, it is very important to assess the human skin penetration of their major flavonoids to verify if they penetrate and remain in the skin to exert their proposed effects. The aim of this study was to evaluate the human skin penetration of epigallocatechin-3-gallate (EGCG) and quercetin from green tea and G. biloba extracts vehiculated in cosmetic formulations. This study was conducted with fresh dermatomed human Caucasian skin from abdominal surgery mounted on static Franz diffusion cells. Skin samples were mounted between two diffusion half-cells and 10 mg/cm(2) of formulations supplemented with 6% of green tea or G. biloba extract were applied on the skin surface. The receptor fluid was removed after 6 and 24 h and analyzed by high-performance liquid chromatography for the quantification of the flavonoids. The stratum corneum was removed by tape stripping and immersed in methanol and the epidermis was mechanically separated from the dermis and triturated in methanol to extract EGCG and quercetin. The results showed that the flavonoids under study penetrated into the skin, without reaching the receptor fluid. The majority of EGCG was quantified in the stratum corneum (0.87 mu g/cm(2)), which was statistically higher than the EGCG concentrations found in viable epidermis (0.54 mu g/cm(2)) and in the dermis (0.38 mu g/cm(2)). The majority of quercetin was quantified in the viable epidermis (0.23 mu g/cm(2)), which was statistically higher than the EGCG concentration found in the stratum corneum layer (0.17 mu g/cm(2)). Finally, it can be concluded that EGCG and quercetin from green tea and G. biloba extracts vehiculated in cosmetic formulations presented good skin penetration and retention, which can favor their skin effects. Copyright (C) 2009 S. Karger AG, Basel

Iontophoretic transport of zinc phthalocyanine tetrasulfonic acid as a tool to improve drug topical delivery

Phthalocyanines have been used as systemic photosensitizers because of their high affinity towards tumour tissue, and the high rates of reactive oxygen species produced when they are irradiated during photodynamic therapy. However, the topical administration of these compounds is limited by their large size, poor hydrosolubility and ionic character. This study aimed to investigate the iontophoretic delivery of charged zinc phthalocyanine tetrasulfonic acid (ZnPcS(4)) from a hydrophilic gel to different skin layers by means of in-vitro and in-vivo studies. Six hours of passive administration was insufficient for ZnPcS(4) to cross the stratum corneum (SC) and to reach the epidermis and dermis. No positive effect was reached when anodal iontophoresis was performed, showing that the drug-electrode attraction effect was higher than the electro-osmosis contribution at a pH of 5.5. Cathodal iontophoresis, however, was able to transport significant amounts of the drug to the viable epidermis. In addition, the absence of NaCl in the formulation significantly increased (by five-fold) the amount of ZnPcS(4) that crossed the SC and accumulated in the epidermis and dermis. It was possible to visualize the drug accumulation in the follicle openings and in the epidermis, even after SC removal. In-vivo experiments in rat skin showed that these results were maintained in an in-vivo model, even with only 15 min of iontophoresis. In addition, confocal analysis of the treated skin showed a homogeneous distribution of ZnPcS(4) in the viable epidermis after this short period of cathodal iontophoresis. Anti-Cancer Drugs 22:783-793 (C) 2011 Wolters Kluwer Health | Lippincott Williams & Wilkins.

In vivo skin effects of a dimethylaminoethanol (DMAE) based formulation

Dimethylaminoethanol (DMAE) has been used in anti-aging formulations but few scientifically based data address its efficacy. The aim of this study was to evaluate the effects of DMAE-based formulations on hairless mice and human skin. Formulations containing with or without DMAE were applied to the dorsum of hairless mice. Histopathological and histometric evaluations were carried out after seven days. Formulations were also applied to the ventral forearm and the lateral periocular area of human volunteers. Stratum corneum water content and skin mechanical properties were analyzed using Corneometer and Cutometer, before and after a single and repeated application. Histometric evaluations showed that formulations with or without DMAE increased the viable epidermis thickness, but only the DMAE-supplemented formulation led to increased dermal thickness. DMAE also induced increase in collagen fiber thickness, which was observed in the histopathological study. After the single and the 8-week period application on human skin, formulations with and without DMAE enhanced the stratum corneum water content in the forearm skin. Mechanical properties were not significantly modified. So, we can suggest that DMAE action is related to its effects on the dermis as observed in the histopathological and histometric studies and showed hydration effects on skin.

Application of tetra-isopalmitoyl ascorbic acid in cosmetic formulations: Stability studies and in vivo efficacy

Liposoluble vitamin C derivatives, such as tetra-isopalmitoyl ascorbic acid (IPAA), are often used in dermocosmetic products due to their higher stability than vitamin C free form as well as its proposed effects in skin; however, there are no studies analyzing IPAA stability or its in vivo effects when present in dermocosmetic formulations. Thus, this study aimed to evaluate chemical stability and pre-clinical and clinical efficacy of dermocosmetic formulations containing IPAA in skin hydration and microrelief. Chemical stability of the formulations added with 1% IPAA was evaluated by heat stress during 35 days by HPLC. For pre-clinical evaluation, experimental formulations were topically applied on hairless skin mice during 5 days and animal skins were analyzed by non-invasive biophysic techniques (water content of stratum corneum, TEWL, viscoelasticity, and microrelief) and by histopathological studies. For clinical efficacy tests, the formulations were topically applied to the forearm and face of human volunteers, and 3 h and 15 days after applications, the skins were evaluated by the same non-invasive techniques mentioned before. Results showed that formulations containing IPAA had medium stability and had pronounced moisturizing effects on stratum corneum and on viable epidermis. These formulations also improved skin microrelief especially in relation to skin smoothness and roughness. (C) 2012 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.

Engineering of needle-free physical methods to target epidermal cells for DNA vaccination

A challenge in epidermal DNA vaccination is the efficient and targeted delivery of polynucleotides to immunologically sensitive Langerhans cells. This paper investigates this particular challenge for physical delivery approaches. The skin immunology and material properties are examined in the context of the physical cell targeting requirements of the viable epidermis. Selected current physical cell targeting technologies engineered to meet these needs are examined: needle and syringe; diffusion patches; liquid jet injectors; microneedle arrays/patches; and biolistic particle injection. The operating methods and relative performance of these approaches are discussed, with a comment on potential future developments and technologies. (c) 2005 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.

Development and validation of HPLC method for imiquimod determination in skin penetration studies

A simple, rapid and sensitive analytical procedure for the measurement of imiquimod in skin samples after in vitro penetration studies has been developed and validated. In vitro penetration studies were carried out in Franz diffusion cells with porcine skin. Tape stripping technique was used to separate the stratum corneum (SC) from the viable epidermis and dermis. Imiquimod was extracted from skin samples using a 7:3 (v/v) methanol:acetate buffer (100 mm, pH 4.0) solution and ultrasonication. Imiquimod was analyzed by H-PLC using C(8) column and UV detection at 242 ran. The mobile phase used was acetonitrile:acetate buffer (pH 4.0, 100 mM):diethylamine (30:69.85:0.15, v/v) with flow rate 1 mL/min. Imiquimod eluted at 4.1 min and the running time was limited to 6.0 min. The procedure was linear across the following concentration ranges: 100-2500 ng/mL for both SC and tape-stripped skin and 20-800 ng/mL for receptor solution. Intra-day and inter-day accuracy and precision values were lower than 20% at the limit of quantitation. The recovery values ranged from 80 to 100%. The method is adequate to assay imiquimod from skin samples, enabling the determination of the cutaneous penetration profile of uniquimod by in vitro studies. Copyright (C) 2008 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.

Influence of the Photostabilizer in the Photoprotective Effects of a Formulation Containing UV-Filters and Vitamin A

Vitamin A palmitate has been used in cosmetics; however, studies report that this substance shows photoreactivity that can lead to loss of safety and efficacy. On the other hand, photostabilizers have been used to increase sunscreen photostability and consequently their safety and effectiveness. Thus, this study aimed to evaluate the influence of photostabilizers on the photoprotective effects of a cosmetic formulation containing UV-filters and vitamin A palmitate. The formulation containing UV-filters was supplemented with vitamin A palmitate and the photostabilizers diethylhexyl 2,6-naphthalate (DEHN), bumetrizole and benzotriazolyl dodecyl p-cresol (BTDC). Hairless mice were treated daily by topical applications and irradiated (UVA/B). Erythema index, transepidermal water loss, histological/histometric analysis and number of sunburn cells (SBC) were evaluated. The results showed that all formulations protected from UV-induced enhancement of erythema and SBC but there was no difference among them. The formulation with no stabilizers reduced viable epidermis thickness due to atrophy induced by UV radiation. Thus, it can be concluded that the presence of photostabilizers influenced the effects of formulations containing UV-filters and vitamin A palmitate, which could be seen by histological and histometric analysis. Furthermore, the formulations containing the stabilizers DEHN and BTDC showed better protective effects on hairless mice skin.

Efficacy of Marigold Extract-Loaded Formulations Against UV-induced Oxidative Stress

The present study investigated the potential use of topical formulations containing marigold extract (ME) (Calendula officinalis extract) against ultraviolet (UV) B irradiation-induced skin damage. The physical and functional stabilities, as well as the skin penetration capacity, of the different topical formulations developed were evaluated. In addition, the in vivo capacity to prevent/treat the UVB irradiation-induced skin damage, in hairless mice, of the formulation with better skin penetration capacity was investigated. All of the formulations were physically and functionally stable. The gel formulation [Formulation 3 (F3)] was the most effective for the topical delivery of ME, which was detected as 0.21 mu g/cm(2) of narcissin and as 0.07 mu g/cm(2) of the rutin in the viable epidermis. This formulation was able to maintain glutathione reduced levels close to those of nonirradiated animals, but did not affect the gelatinase-9 and myeloperoxidase activities increased by exposure to UVB irradiation. In addition, F3 reduced the histological skin changes induced by UVB irradiation that appear as modifications of collagen fibrils. Therefore, the photoprotective effect in hairless mice achieved with the topical application of ME in gel formulation is most likely associated with a possible improvement in the collagen synthesis in the subepidermal connective tissue. (C) 2010 Wiley-Liss, Inc. and the American Pharmacists Association J Pharm Sci 100:2182-2193, 2011

Diffusion modeling of percutaneous absorption kinetics: 2. Finite vehicle volume and solvent deposited solids

The diffusion model for percutaneous absorption is developed for the specific case of delivery to the skin being limited by the application of a finite amount of solute. Two cases are considered; in the first, there is an application of a finite donor (vehicle) volume, and in the second, there are solvent-deposited solids and a thin vehicle with a high partition coefficient. In both cases, the potential effect of an interfacial resistance at the stratum corneum surface is also considered. As in the previous paper, which was concerned with the application of a constant donor concentration, clearance limitations due to the viable eqidermis, the in vitro sampling rate, or perfusion rate in vivo are included. Numerical inversion of the Laplace domain solutions was used for simulations of solute flux and cumulative amount absorbed and to model specific examples of percutaneous absorption of solvent-deposited solids. It was concluded that numerical inversions of the Laplace domain solutions for a diffusion model of the percutaneous absorption, using standard scientific software (such as SCIENTIST, MicroMath Scientific software) on modern personal computers, is a practical alternative to computation of infinite series solutions. Limits of the Laplace domain solutions were used to define the moments of the flux-time profiles for finite donor volumes and the slope of the terminal log flux-time profile. The mean transit time could be related to the diffusion time through stratum corneum, viable epidermal, and donor diffusion layer resistances and clearance from the receptor phase. Approximate expressions for the time to reach maximum flux (peak time) and maximum flux were also derived. The model was then validated using reported amount-time and flux-time profiles for finite doses applied to the skin. It was concluded that for very small donor phase volume or for very large stratum corneum-vehicle partitioning coefficients (e.g., for solvent deposited solids), the flux and amount of solute absorbed are affected by receptor conditions to a lesser extent than is obvious for a constant donor constant donor concentrations. (C) 2001 Wiley-Liss, Inc. and the American Pharmaceutical Association J Pharm Sci 90:504-520, 2001.

Skin permeation and metabolism of di(2-ethylhexyl) phthalate (DEHP).

Phthalates are suspected to be endocrine disruptors. Di(2-ethylhexyl) phthalate (DEHP) is assumed to have low dermal absorption; however, previous in vitro skin permeation studies have shown large permeation differences. Our aims were to determine DEHP permeation parameters and assess extent of skin DEHP metabolism among workers highly exposed to these lipophilic, low volatile substances. Surgically removed skin from patients undergoing abdominoplasty was immediately dermatomed (800 μm) and mounted on flow-through diffusion cells (1.77 cm(2)) operating at 32°C with cell culture media (aqueous solution) as the reservoir liquid. The cells were dosed either with neat DEHP or emulsified in aqueous solution (166 μg/ml). Samples were analysed by HPLC-MS/MS. DEHP permeated human viable skin only as the metabolite MEHP (100%) after 8h of exposure. Human skin was able to further oxidize MEHP to 5-oxo-MEHP. Neat DEHP applied to the skin hardly permeated skin while the aqueous solution readily permeated skin measured in both cases as concentration of MEHP in the receptor liquid. DEHP pass through human skin, detected as MEHP only when emulsified in aqueous solution, and to a far lesser degree when applied neat to the skin. Using results from older in vitro skin permeation studies with non-viable skin may underestimate skin exposures. Our results are in overall agreement with newer phthalate skin permeation studies.

Distribution of esterase activity in porcine ear skin, and the effects of freezing and heat separation

Porcine ear skin is widely used to study skin permeation and absorption of ester compounds, whose permeation and absorption profiles may be directly influenced by in situ skin esterase activity. Importantly, esterase distribution and activity in porcine ear skin following common protocols of skin handling and storage have not been characterised. Thus, we have compared the distribution and hydrolytic activity of esterases in freshly excised, frozen, heated and explanted porcine ear skin. Using an esterase staining kit, esterase activity was found to be localised in the stratum corneum and viable epidermis. Under frozen storage and a common heating protocol of epidermal sheet separation, esterase staining in the skin visibly diminished. This was confirmed by a quantitative assay using HPLC to monitor the hydrolysis of aspirin, in freshly excised, frozen or heated porcine ear skin. Compared to vehicle-only control, the rate of aspirin hydrolysis was approximately three-fold higher in the presence of freshly excised skin, but no different in the presence of frozen or heated skin. Therefore, frozen and heat-separated porcine ear skin should not be used to study the permeation of ester-containing permeants, in particular co-drugs and pro-drugs, whose hydrolysis or degradation can be modulated by skin esterases.