Entre as tramas da indústria da moda: argumentos sobre o trabalho escravo contemporâneo na sociedade de consumo

Even after its abolition, the slave labor still exists in the world. In a new socio-historic context, the shackles and slave quarters have been left behind, nowadays the workers are tempted, subjected to degrading conditions and have their rights retrenched. The contemporary slave labor has been emerging as subject of research in the Organizational Studies since the early 2000s, calling attention to many gaps to be filled about the way organizations all around the world use this practice. Contemporary slave labor is found in many and various economic activities, since coal to textile industries or even stores. In this dissertation, we have incorporated the consumption dimension to the field of Organizational Studies, discussing the modern slavery, aiming to understand the consumers’ point of view about this topic, that is, we have researched the consumers’ interpretations concerning the slave labor in the fashion industry. Our objective is to analyze consumer’s argumentative construction in the decision of buying or not products made by industries from the fashion field that were denounced because of slave labor usage. We have adopted fashion industry as research focus because it obscures the reflection of the consumers that feel like in a new world while shopping, a world of beauty and fantasy, seeking their own satisfaction. Furthermore, the Brazilian fashion industry is one of the biggest of the world (ABIT, 2015), with a huge symbolic strength in the country. We have realized a qualitative research using semi-structured interviews with 35 consumers to identify their arguments according to the criteria defined by Liakopoulos (2002): data, propositions, guarantees, supports and refutations. The data are the statements used by the interviewees categorically, that is, those which are clear in the interviews. The propositions are what qualifies and justifies the used data. The guarantees are related to the nature of the data, they are what gives the sense to the data and are introduced implicitly in the interviewee speech. The supports are universal premises introduced in order to legitimate the arguments. The refutations, when present, counter the used arguments. As results, we’ve found consumers who developed arguments pro-consumption and anti-consumption and who have defended ideas about the responsibility of different actors for the existence of this practice and for the fight against it. From these two categories: (1) pro-consumption – consume despite the complaints and (2) anti-consumption – don’t consume, because of the accusations; we have identified the following argumentative lines: skepticism, faultfinding and moral engagement. By the end, we have presented the interviewees’ argumentative construction and the obtained results.

A Influência do endosso de blogueiras no comportamento das consumidoras de moda no Brasil

The study about the celebrity endorsement has relevance for both the academia and businesses seeking to retain and attract customers through marketing communications. However, most researches conducted analyzes celebrities from the artistic or sports, and study the endorsement in print media or on TV. Few studies analyze the endorsement of influencers in social media. Observing this gap, the aim of this study is to verify if the endorsement of fashion bloggers influence on purchase intention of Brazilian consumers. In addition, other factors were analyzed for better understanding of the fashion consumer behavior: evaluation of the product, brand awareness, brand loyalty, product quality, involvement with fashion, and credibility of the endorser. Therefore, it held two studies. The first consisted of a qualitative exploratory research, which used focus groups to identify and understand how social media affect the behavior of consumers of fashion products. Among the main results of this study, we highlight the Instagram appointed unanimously as the main social media used by respondents for information on fashion, and the mention of blogger Thássia Naves as the main source of fashion reference in social media. In the second study was undertaken an experiment in which half of the sample had access to the image of a dress used by the blogger Thássia Naves on her Instagram, while the other half had access to dress image disclosed at the online store website of the product brand. The number of valid responses considered for the study was 465. To test the hypotheses of the study, we applied the t test for independent samples and ANOVA test for more than two groups. The survey results supported 5 of 8 hypotheses proposed. which were: The endorsement of the fashion blogger has a positive effect on purchase intention of the endorsed product (H1); The endorsement of the fashion blogger has a positive effect on the evaluation of the endorsed product (H2); The credibility of the fashion blogger has a positive effect on purchase intention of the endorsed product (H3); The credibility of the fashion blogger has a positive effect on the evaluation of the endorsed product (H4); and the credibility of the fashion blogger has a positive effect on brand awareness (H5). The other hypotheses have been disproved: The credibility of the fashion blogger has a positive effect on brand loyalty (H6); The credibility of the fashion blogger has a positive effect on the perception of quality (H7); and the credibility of the fashion blogger has a positive effect on involvement with fashion (H8).Within the scope of further analysis, it was found that involvement with fashion positively interfere in purchase intent, the evaluation of the product, brand awareness, loyalty to the brand, the pursuit of product quality and credibility of the endorser. Moreover, it was found that the frequency of access to Instagram for fashion information positively affects the purchase intention, in evaluating the product, the brand awareness in brand loyalty, involvement with fashion, and credibility endorser.