The Korteweg-de Vries hierarchy and long water-waves

By using the multiple scale method with the simultaneous introduction of multiple times, we study the propagation of long surface-waves in a shallow inviscid fluid. As a consequence of the requirements of scale invariance and absence of secular terms in each order of the perturbative expansion, we show that the Korteweg-de Vries hierarchy equations do play a role in the description of such waves. Finally, we show that this procedure of eliminating secularities is closely related to the renormalization technique introduced by Kodama and Taniuti. © 1995 American Institute of Physics.

Water waves generated by local disturbance: Serre's model validity

Water waves generated by landslides were long menace in certain localities and the study of this phenomenon were carried out at an accelerated rate in the last decades. Nevertheless, the phase of wave creation was found to be very complex. As such, a numerical model based on Boussinesq equations was used to describe water waves generated by local disturbance. This numerical model takes in account the vertical acceleration of the particles and considers higher orders derivate terms previously neglected by Boussinesq, so that in the generation zone, this model can support high relative amplitude of waves.

Optimal Boussinesq model for shallow-water waves interacting with a microstructure

In this paper, we consider the propagation of water waves in a long-wave asymptotic regime, when the bottom topography is periodic on a short length scale. We perform a multiscale asymptotic analysis of the full potential theory model and of a family of reduced Boussinesq systems parametrized by a free parameter that is the depth at which the velocity is evaluated. We obtain explicit expressions for the coefficients of the resulting effective Korteweg-de Vries (KdV) equations. We show that it is possible to choose the free parameter of the reduced model so as to match the KdV limits of the full and reduced models. Hence the reduced model is optimal regarding the embedded linear weakly dispersive and weakly nonlinear characteristics of the underlying physical problem, which has a microstructure. We also discuss the impact of the rough bottom on the effective wave propagation. In particular, nonlinearity is enhanced and we can distinguish two regimes depending on the period of the bottom where the dispersion is either enhanced or reduced compared to the flat bottom case. © 2007 The American Physical Society.

Theory of small aspect ratio waves in deep water

In the limit of small values of the aspect ratio parameter (or wave steepness) which measures the amplitude of a surface wave in units of its wave-length, a model equation is derived from the Euler system in infinite depth (deep water) without potential flow assumption. The resulting equation is shown to sustain periodic waves which on the one side tend to the proper linear limit at small amplitudes, on the other side possess a threshold amplitude where wave crest peaking is achieved. An explicit expression of the crest angle at wave breaking is found in terms of the wave velocity. By numerical simulations, stable soliton-like solutions (experiencing elastic interactions) propagate in a given velocities range on the edge of which they tend to the peakon solution. (c) 2005 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.

Evolution equation for short surface waves on water of finite depth

Fundação de Amparo à Pesquisa do Estado de São Paulo (FAPESP)

The modulational instability in deep water under the action of wind and dissipation

Conselho Nacional de Desenvolvimento Científico e Tecnológico (CNPq)

Solid mass falling into the reservoirs shallow water equations validity from the engineering point of view

Water waves generated by a solid mass is a complex phenomenon discussed in this paper by numerical and experimental approaches. A model based on shallow water equations with shocks (Saint Venant) has developed. It can reproduce the amplitude and the energy of the wave quite well, but because it consistently generates a hydraulic jump, it is able to reproduce the profile, in the case of high relative thickness of slide, but in the case of small relative thickness it is unable to reproduce the amplitude of the wave. As the momentum conservation is not verified during the phase of wave creation, a second technique based on discharge transfer coefficient α, is introduced at the zone of impact. Numerical tests have been performed and validated this technique from the experimental results of the wave's height obtained in a flume.

Propagation of ship waves on a sloping bottom

The numerical model FUNWAVE was adapted in order to simulate the generation and propagation of ship waves to shore, including phenomena such as refraction, diffraction, currents and breaking of waves. Results are shown for Froude numbers equal to 0.8, 1.0 and 1.1, in order to verify the refraction of the wave pattern, identify breaking conditions and to investigate the wave generation scheme as a moving pressure at the free surface. © 2009 World Scientific Publishing Co. Pte. Ltd.

Waves generated by two or more ships in a channel

The numerical model FUNWAVE+Ship simulates the generation and propagation of ship waves to shore, including phenomena such as refraction, diffraction, currents and breaking of waves. The interaction of two wave trains, generated by ships moving either in the same direction at different speeds or in opposite directions, is studied. Focus is given to the wave orbital velocities and to the free surface pattern.

Finite time blow-up and breaking of solitary wind waves

The evolution of surface water waves in finite depth under wind forcing is reduced to an antidissipative Korteweg-de Vries-Burgers equation. We exhibit its solitary wave solution. Antidissipation accelerates and increases the amplitude of the solitary wave and leads to blow-up and breaking. Blow-up occurs in finite time for infinitely large asymptotic space so it is a nonlinear, dispersive, and antidissipative equivalent of the linear instability which occurs for infinite time. Due to antidissipation two given arbitrary and adjacent planes of constant phases of the solitary wave acquire different velocities and accelerations inducing breaking. Soliton breaking occurs in finite space in a time prior to the blow-up. We show that the theoretical growth in amplitude and the time of breaking are both testable in an existing experimental facility.

Understanding the tsunami with a simple model

In this paper, we use the approximation of shallow water waves (Margaritondo G 2005 Eur. J. Phys. 26 401) to understand the behaviour of a tsunami in a variable depth. We deduce the shallow water wave equation and the continuity equation that must be satisfied when a wave encounters a discontinuity in the sea depth. A short explanation about how the tsunami hit the west coast of India is given based on the refraction phenomenon. Our procedure also includes a simple numerical calculation suitable for undergraduate students in physics and engineering.

Métodos analíticos, numéricos e experimentais para o cálculo de ondas de impacto em meios líquidos

Conselho Nacional de Desenvolvimento Científico e Tecnológico (CNPq)

Desenvolvimento de software utilizando a técnica sph (smoothed particle hydrodynamics) na geração de ondas de submersão

Pós-graduação em Engenharia Elétrica - FEIS

An integrable evolution equation for surface waves in deep water

In order to describe the dynamics of monochromatic surface waves in deep water, we derive a nonlinear and dispersive system of equations for the free surface elevation and the free surface velocity from the Euler equations in infinite depth. From it, and using a multiscale perturbative method, an asymptotic model for small wave steepness ratio is derived. The model is shown to be completely integrable. The Lax pair, the first conserved quantities as well as the symmetries are exhibited. Theoretical and numerical studies reveal that it supports periodic progressive Stokes waves which peak and break in finite time. Comparison between the limiting wave solution of the asymptotic model and classical results is performed.

EFFECT of ULTRASONIC EXCITATION on THE MICROTENSILE BOND STRENGTH of GLASS IONOMER CEMENTS TO DENTIN AFTER DIFFERENT WATER STORAGE TIMES

Coordenação de Aperfeiçoamento de Pessoal de Nível Superior (CAPES)