Consumer’s purchase intention of ethical fashion. Examining beliefs about fashion industry and attitudes towards ethical fashion

Globalization and the developments of supply chain have made inexpensive labor and the low production costs of developing countries available to businesses worldwide. Unfortunately, these developments have also led to the exploitation of human and natural resources. The increasing supply of cheap and fashionable clothing has created a contradiction between consumers’ concerns for sustainability and their purchase behavior in the fashion industry. Since the uncovering of several sweatshop scandals in the 1980’s and 1990’s ethical fashion brands have started to emerge. Ethical fashion has sparked the interest of consumers and studies have shown promising positive attitudes towards it. However, these attitudes have failed to translate into action and purchase behavior of ethical fashion has not reached the expectations. In order to translate the positive attitudes into buying companies must understand consumer’s motivations and reasons behind the purchase decision. The objective of this study is to understand the antecedents behind young consumer’s purchase intention of ethical fashion. The study is based on the theory of planned behavior which has been widely used to study consumer behavior and purchase decisions. The theory has also been used in ethical decision-making and fashion context before. According to the theory, in order to understand purchase intentions consumer’s attitudes toward buying ethical fashion were studied. The theory also states that attitudes are formed from beliefs, thus, consumer’s beliefs about the fashion industry were studied. To contribute to existing research, the effect of sweatshop issues and environmental issues were compared. The data was collected from university students (n=617) with an online survey. The results were analyzed by statistical methods and they revealed that young Finnish consumers hold positive attitudes towards buying ethical fashion as well as positive purchase intentions of ethical fashion. A strong relationship was found between positive attitudes and positive purchase intentions. Also, the more negative consumers’ beliefs of the fashion industry were the more positive their attitudes toward buying ethical fashion were. In contradiction to previous research this study revealed that environmental issues had greater effect on attitudes than sweatshop issues. Interesting differences between consumers were found depending on their field of education. Students from humanities and social sciences held the most negative beliefs as well as most positive attitudes and purchase intentions of ethical fashion.

On the cross-road of ethical- and fashion consumerism: intentions of pink ribbon campaign consumers

Tutkielman tavoitteena oli selvittää Roosanauha kampanjan tuotteiden ostoon liittyvää aikeen muodostumista kuluttajilla. Lisäksi tavoitteena oli selvittää onko aikeen muodostumisessa eroja uuden pinkin värin tai lahjoitus ominaisuuden osalta. Tutkimus toteutettiin sähköisenä kyselynä, jota analysoitiin tilastollisin menetelmin, lähinnä korrelaatioiden avulla. Tutkimus ei saavuttanut toivottua päämääräänsä lähinnä huonoksi jääneen vastausten kokonaismäärän vuoksi.Joitakin suuntaa antavia tuloksia pystyttiin kuitenkin tunnistamaan. Tuloksissa oli viitteitä lahjoitusominaisuuden tärkeydestä kuluttajille sekä vaaleanpunaiseen väriin positiivisesti asennoitumisesta. Kampanjan jatkoa ajatellen markkinoijien on syytä huomata tuloksissa ilmennyt värin tärkeä rooli sekä lahjoitusominaisuudelle painottunut sosiaalisten normien vahvuus.

Consumption of Fashion Luxury Brands

The main objective of this study is to find out why people buy luxury brands and which factors influence their decisions. The elements of luxury brands as well as motivation, culture and self-concept is researched as being the main factors behind luxury consumption. It was important to conduct this study because the luxury market is growing with a fast pace and it has hardly been research before. This study was conducted as a qualitative research. Theoretical part is based on the literature and on researches conducted before about the matter. Purposeful sampling method was used in empirical part by interviewing designers Jukka Rintala and Hanna Sarén as well as consumers of luxury brands, who work in the fashion industry. Two different viewpoints were chosen in order to research if designers’ and consumers’ thoughts differed. This study shows that the elements of luxury brands are deemed pretty much the same all around the world and also between the designers and consumers interviewed. Exclusivity referring to unique design and “hard to get” as well as good quality meaning superior materials, were mentioned as the most important elements of luxury brands. According to this study motivation behind luxury consumption is to a great extent dependent on the culture where the luxuries are consumed. However, self-concept has the biggest effect on luxury consumption. This study shows that people in individualistic cultures buy luxuries because they want to. People tend to spoil themselves and show off, thus making them feel good when buying luxuries. However, uniqueness is appreciated. On contrast, in collectivistic cultures people buy luxuries because they have to. Social pressure is much greater in Eastern than in Western culture that being the reason wealth is expected show. This study shows that in some cases designers' and consumers' thoughts about luxury consumption differ. Especially, a big gap was found when talking about materialism behind luxury consumption. The designers did not believe it to be the reason behind luxury consumption where consumers strongly did.

Merchandising Strategies and Retail Performance for Seasonal Fashion Products

This study presents mathematical methods for evaluation of retail performance with special regard to product sourcing strategies. Forecast accuracy, process lead time, offshore / local sourcing mix and up front / replenishment buying mix are defined as critical success factors in connection with sourcing seasonal products with a fashion content. As success measures, this research focuses on service level, lost sales, product substitute percentage, gross margin, gross margin return on inventory and mark down rate. The accuracy of demand forecast is found to be a fundamental success factor. Forecast accuracy depends on lead time. Lead times are traditionally long and buying decisions are made seven to eight months prior to the start of the selling season. Forecast errors cause stockouts and lost sales. Some of the products bought for the selling season will not be sold and have to be marked down and sold at clearance, causing loss of gross margin. Gross margin percentage is not the best tool for evaluating sourcing decisions and in the context of this study gross margin return on inventory, which combines profitability and assets management, is used. The findings of this research suggest that there are more profitable ways of sourcing products than buying them from low cost offshore sources. Mixing up front and inseason replenishment deliveries, especially when point of sale information is used for improving forecast accuracy, results in better retail performance. Quick Response and Vendor Managed Inventory strategies yield better results than traditional up front buying from offshore even if local purchase prices are higher. Increasing the number of selling seasons, slight over buying for the season in order to

Kasvatus on kasvamaan saattamista. Kasvatusfilosofinen tutkimus J. A. Hollon sivistyskasvatusajattelusta

Tutkimukseni käsittelee J. A. Hollon (1885–1967) sivistyskasvatusajattelua. Hollo oli monitoiminen kulttuurivaikuttaja, joka toimi kriitikkona, kirjailijana, suomentajana ja kasvatustieteilijänä. Häntä voidaan pitää J. V. Snellmanin rinnalla yhtenä merkittävimpänä suomalaisena kasvatusajattelijana. Hänen kasvatusajattelustaan ei ole kuitenkaan aiemmin tehty väitöskirjatason tutkimusta. Tutkimuskysymykseni ovat seuraavat: 1. Millainen on Hollon näkemys kasvatuksesta, kasvatuksen maailmasta ja kasvatuksen teoriasta? 2. Mikä on Hollon käsitys kasvattajan ja kasvatettavan merkityksestä kasvatustapahtumassa? 3. Mitä asioita sisältyy sivistyskasvatuksen eli kasvamaan saattamisen elementteihin? Tutkimukseni on kasvatusfilosofinen. Tutkimusmenetelmäni on systemaattinen analyysi ja lähestymistapani on hermeneuttinen. Tutkimukseni pääaineistona ovat Hollon kasvatusta koskevat kirjoitukset, joista tärkeimmät ovat Mielikuvitus ja sen kasvattaminen I-II (1918, 1919), Kasvatuksen maailma (1927), Kasvatuksen teoria (1927) ja Itsekasvatus ja elämisen taito (1931). Hollon mukaan kasvatuksen maailma on suhteellisen itsenäinen elämänmuoto (Lebensform), jolla on oma ontologinen erityislaatunsa, so. sui generis. Kasvatusoppia ei pidä redusoida psykologiaan tai filosofiaan, koska sillä tavoin se menettää tieteellisen itsenäisyytensä. Hollon mielestä kasvatuksen teoria on teoria käytäntöä varten. Kasvatuksen teorian luomisessa tulee ottaa huomioon kasvatuksen maailman erityispiirteenä oleva kokonaisvaltainen näkökulma ja elämän palvelemisen päämäärä. Kasvattaminen on aina myös eettistä toimintaa. Kasvatuksen tavoitteena on hyvä elämä. Hollon mukaan kasvattajan tehtävä on luoda kasvatettavalleen eheä sivistyksellinen perusta. Tämä voi tapahtua vain laaja-alaisen sivistyskasvatuksen avulla, jonka runkona on antiikin humanistinen sivistysperinne. Sivistyskasvatukseen kuuluvat älyllinen, eettinen, uskonnollinen, esteettinen ja toiminnallinen kasvatus. Mielikuvituksen avulla kasvattaja voi yhdistää kasvatuksen osa-alueet eheäksi kokonaisuudeksi. Ilman mielikuvitusta erilaiset ilmiöt olisivat pirstaleisina, toisistaan erillisinä osina ihmisen mielessä. Opettajan persoona on merkittävä tekijä kasvatuksessa. Se tulee ottaa huomioon opettajankoulutuksen eli kasvattajan kasvattamisen valinnoissa. Opettaja-kasvattajan on tärkeää opiskella laajasti humanistisia opintoja, koska kasvatuksessa on kysymys ihmisestä. Ennen kaikkea kasvattajan eettistä ja esteettistä kykyä tulee harjoituttaa. Näin hän oppii käyttämään mielikuvitustaan kasvatustapahtumassa siten, että hän tulee kasvatuksellisesti näkeväksi kasvamaan saattajaksi, joka ymmärtää sen, mikä kussakin tilanteessa vaatii erityistä huomiota. Tutkimukseni osoittaa, että Hollon henkitieteellinen ja fenomenologis-hermeneuttinen kasvatusnäkemys ei ole vain vastaparadigma empiiriselle kasvatustieteelle, vaan myös nykyajan teknis-taloudelliselle eetokselle, joka yhtäältä uhkaa välineellistää kasvatuksen ja toisaalta väärällä tavoin tieteellistää kasvatuksen tutkimuksen. Tämän takia kasvatusoppi kysymyksineen uhkaa siirtyä kasvatuskeskustelussa syrjemmälle, jopa hävitä kokonaan. Kasvatuksen ja kasvatuksen tutkimuksen vaarana on niiden liiallinen sitouttaminen tuotantoelämän jatkeeksi, minkä seurauksena on ihmisyyden toteuttamisen vaikeutuminen. Tutkimuksen lopuksi esitän ideaalikoulunäkemykseni, joka perustuu osittain Hollon kasvatusnäkemykseen. Hollon näkemys on yhä ajankohtainen ja merkittävä kontribuutio kasvatusta, sen teoriaa ja käytäntöä koskevaan keskusteluun.

Agility in international fast fashion retailing

The birth of Internet technologies, the developments of fast fashion and multiple retailing channels have created a need for a new, more integrated way for doing retailing. Agility in fast fashion retailing could be seen as a significant way of responding to these changes and furthermore, as a way to respond to consumers’ altering demands. The purpose of this study was to explore the ways in which agile supply chains and integrated multichannel retailing influence the international fast fashion retailing. A framework for agility in retail was developed based on available theoretical considerations in distribution and communication channels. Qualitative research methods and qualitative content analysis were used. Four expert interviews were carried out to gain new perspectives to the objectives. The rest of the data was collected from an industry specific document, expert video and two expert lectures. Following the data collection, the research material was analyzed with qualitative content analysis. The empirical findings on agility in retail were presented based on a coding frame. It was found that agility in retail has multiple parts, which are overlapping and affecting one another. Furthermore, instead of viewing the agile supply chain and integrated multichannel retailing separately of each other as usual, it was found that they should be integrated, and the term “agility” was proposed to denote this approach. Also, it was found that the most common drivers and constrains of integrated multichannel retailing were the new Internet technologies and customer demand. Brick-and-mortar store, online store, mobile devices and social media were found to be the most common retailing channels. Furthermore, in-store technology, click-and-collect approach, NFC-buying, RFID-technology as well as 3D- digital simulations on fabrics and patterns will enhance agility even more in the future. In addition, environmental issues, customer experiences and communication will be important factors. This study has provided new practical insights for the future retailing. Furthermore, it has contributed to the academic research by discussing the traditional approaches of agility in fast fashion retail and bringing in new insights.

The Challenges and Opportunities of e-Commerce in Fashion Branding from an e-Trust and e-Loyalty Perspective

This thesis discovers the main challenges and opportunities that e-Commerce brings to the fashion industry and to the process of building brand trust and loyalty in particular. The field of e-Commerce is investigated and the findings, benefits and challenges, are implemented into companies’ branding strategies. Then, the effect of companies’ online branding actions on customers’ behaviour is studied. New perspectives and ideas are developed for fashion retailers to build trust online and increase the number of customers who continuously utilize brand’s products and services.

Social networks and networking facilitating internationalization: Experiences of two Finnish fashion companies

Background: Fashion is a dynamic and creative industry where larger retailers are enjoying international success. Small businesses however are struggling in the face of international expansion, as they lack the necessary resources and managerial know-how. The Finnish fashion industry has neither been able to develop the industry environment to support small and micro firms nor has Finland relevant finance or public domains, such as, seen in other Nordic countries. Networking has been recognized to facilitate organizational growth and international expansion in industries such as manufacturing and high technology. It has enabled smaller companies to gain resources, knowledge and experiences otherwise unattainable. Objective: The purpose of this study was to explore how networking has been utilized in the Finnish fashion industry. Particularly social relationships and networks are examined, as they emphasize the importance of individuals. Exploration on the past actions should also provide insight how networks and networking could be utilized and developed in the future. Main findings: It was discovered that the Finnish fashion industry (social) network is rather dense. This was mainly due to the small size of the Finnish market. In the early years of the establishment of the company, close contacts seemed to be utilized. As a company expands and extends its business, the relationships tended to move towards more utilitarian in nature. However, in some cases, the long term relationships had also affectionate features, such as trust and commitment. International networking was found to have positive impact on business opportunities. Participation to events, such as trade shows, was perceived as one of the best ways to meet new international contacts and to develop ones network. Active networking in the Finnish market, however, created both domestic and international opportunities. Furthermore, cooperation and open communication were discovered to facilitate innovation and projects. The public sector seemed to lack the interest in supporting the fashion industry according to the interviewees. The major issues for the fashion industry still concerned, among others, funding, administrative guidance and public support for developing the industry as a whole.

Ethical leadership as a way to promote work-related well-being

The purpose of this study was to clarify the connections of ethical leadership with the work-related well-being of employees. Additionally, the role of occupational health care in ethical leadership that promotes work-related well- being was analyzed. The objective of the study was to produce knowledge to support the development of ethical leadership and work-related well-being as well as to find ways for occupational health care to support organizations in these actions. The target groups of this study consisted of the managers (N=43) and employees (N=336) working in one organization in the Finnish energy industry. The population was studied in November 2014 using census. The data was gathered with two different web-based surveys containing structured and open questions. The survey for managers consisted of background questions and statements concerning ethical leadership, work-related well-being and occupational health care. The employee questionnaire consisted of questions about background and statements about work-related well-being and ethical leadership. The structured questions were analyzed with SPSS Statistical Program and the open questions using inductive content analysis. At least 80 % of the managers saw their actions as ethical in all but one part of ethical leadership. The work-related well-being of the employees was found best in the area of ability to work (91 % agreed) and lowest in the area of experience of ethical leadership (67 % agreed). The results showed a strong positive connection between ethical leadership and all the components of work- related well-being. The managers and employees were generally quite happy with the services of occupational health care but managers saw some problems with the collaboration with occupational health care. Several ways to improve work-related well-being and collaboration with occupational health care were found. One of the most important things was thought to be offering ways to maintain ability to work and making these actions visible. Investing in ethical leadership and work-related well-being is extremely important for the success of an organization and the societal benefits cannot be forgotten either. The role of occupational health care in promoting the health and well-being of employees is substantial. Occupational health care should offer managers more tools to recognize difficult situations and acting in them as well as encourage managers to seek help from occupational health care without hesitation in problematic situations of leadership.

Ethical leadership as a way to promote work-related well-being

The purpose of this study was to clarify the connections of ethical leadership with the work-related well-being of employees. Additionally, the role of occupational health care in ethical leadership that promotes work-related well- being was analyzed. The objective of the study was to produce knowledge to support the development of ethical leadership and work-related well-being as well as to find ways for occupational health care to support organizations in these actions. The target groups of this study consisted of the managers (N=43) and employees (N=336) working in one organization in the Finnish energy industry. The population was studied in November 2014 using census. The data was gathered with two different web-based surveys containing structured and open questions. The survey for managers consisted of background questions and statements concerning ethical leadership, work-related well-being and occupational health care. The employee questionnaire consisted of questions about background and statements about work-related well-being and ethical leadership. The structured questions were analyzed with SPSS Statistical Program and the open questions using inductive content analysis. At least 80 % of the managers saw their actions as ethical in all but one part of ethical leadership. The work-related well-being of the employees was found best in the area of ability to work (91 % agreed) and lowest in the area of experience of ethical leadership (67 % agreed). The results showed a strong positive connection between ethical leadership and all the components of work- related well-being. The managers and employees were generally quite happy with the services of occupational health care but managers saw some problems with the collaboration with occupational health care. Several ways to improve work-related well-being and collaboration with occupational health care were found. One of the most important things was thought to be offering ways to maintain ability to work and making these actions visible. Investing in ethical leadership and work-related well-being is extremely important for the success of an organization and the societal benefits cannot be forgotten either. The role of occupational health care in promoting the health and well-being of employees is substantial. Occupational health care should offer managers more tools to recognize difficult situations and acting in them as well as encourage managers to seek help from occupational health care without hesitation in problematic situations of leadership.