An interdisciplinary approach to the study of colour in portuguese manuscript illuminations

Dissertação apresentada para obtenção do Grau de Doutor em Conservação e Restauro, especialidade Teoria, História e Técnicas, pela Universidade Nova de Lisboa, Faculdade de Ciências e Tecnologia

The impact of CdSe/ZnS Quantum Dots in cells of Medicago sativa in suspension culture

Abstract Background: Nanotechnology has the potential to provide agriculture with new tools that may be used in the rapid detection and molecular treatment of diseases and enhancement of plant ability to absorb nutrients, among others. Data on nanoparticle toxicity in plants is largely heterogeneous with a diversity of physicochemical parameters reported, which difficult generalizations. Here a cell biology approach was used to evaluate the impact of Quantum Dots (QDs) nanocrystals on plant cells, including their effect on cell growth, cell viability, oxidative stress and ROS accumulation, besides their cytomobility. Results: A plant cell suspension culture of Medicago sativa was settled for the assessment of the impact of the addition of mercaptopropanoic acid coated CdSe/ZnS QDs. Cell growth was significantly reduced when 100 mM of mercaptopropanoic acid -QDs was added during the exponential growth phase, with less than 50% of the cells viable 72 hours after mercaptopropanoic acid -QDs addition. They were up taken by Medicago sativa cells and accumulated in the cytoplasm and nucleus as revealed by optical thin confocal imaging. As part of the cellular response to internalization, Medicago sativa cells were found to increase the production of Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS) in a dose and time dependent manner. Using the fluorescent dye H2DCFDA it was observable that mercaptopropanoic acid-QDs concentrations between 5-180 nM led to a progressive and linear increase of ROS accumulation. Conclusions: Our results showed that the extent of mercaptopropanoic acid coated CdSe/ZnS QDs cytotoxicity in plant cells is dependent upon a number of factors including QDs properties, dose and the environmental conditions of administration and that, for Medicago sativa cells, a safe range of 1-5 nM should not be exceeded for biological applications.

The discovery of three lost ‘Salting’ carpets: science as a tool for revealing their history

Thesis presented at the Faculdade de Ciências e Tecnologia, Universidade Nova de Lisboa, to obtain a Master degree in Conservation and Restoration,Specialization in Textiles

Cochineal, a precious source of red: cochineal dyes characterization by high performance liquid chromatography with diode array detection and principal component analysis

Presented at Faculdade de Ciências e Tecnologias, Universidade de Lisboa, to obtain the Master Degree in Conservation and Restoration of Textiles

Active bionanoconjugates of laccase and gold nanoparticles: kinetic and structural studies

Thesis for the master degree in Structural and Functional Biochemistry

Implementação do sistema SMED nas linhas de produção na “José Maria da Fonseca Vinhos, SA”

Dissertação para obtenção do Grau de Mestre em Tecnologia e Segurança Alimentar

Development of integrated separation processes with green solvents

Dissertação para obtenção do Grau de Doutor em Química Sustentável

Clustering medical tourism in Algarve: setting the first steps for the the health authority

A Work Project, presented as part of the requirements for the Award of a Masters Degree in Management from the NOVA – School of Business and Economics

A closer look at brazilwood and its lake pigments

Dissertação para obtenção do Grau de Mestre em Mestrado em Conservação e Restauro, especialização em Ciências da Conservação

Will men in Portugal wear make-up in the future?

A Work Project, presented as part of the requirements for the Award of a Masters Degree in Management from the NOVA – School of Business and Economics

Production of chitin-glucan complex by Pichia pastoris

Dissertation for the Degree of Master in Biotechnology

Spectroscopic characterization of natural dyes by their non-invasive identification on pre-Columbian codices: the Maya yellow

Mesoamerican cultures had a strong tradition of written and pictorial manuscripts, called the codices. In studies already performed it was found the use of Maya Blue, made from a mixture of indigo and a clay called palygorskite, forming an incredibly stable material where the dye is trapped inside the nanotubes of the clay, after heating. However, a bigger challenge lies in the study of the yellows used, for these civilizations might have used this clay-dye mixture to produce their yellow colorants. As a first step, it was possible to provide identification, by non-invasive methods, of two colorants (a flavonoid and a carotenoid). While the flavonoid absorbed between 368-379 nm, the carotenoid would absorb around 455 nm. A temperature study also conducted allowed to set 140ºC as the desirable temperature to heat the samples without degrading them. FT-IR, conventional Raman and SERS allowed us to understand the existence of a reaction between the dyes and the clays (palygorskite and kaolinite), however it is difficult to understand it in a molecular point of view. As a second step, five species of Mexican dyes were selected on the basis of historical sources. The Maya yellow samples were produced adapting the recipe proposed by Reyes-Valerio, supporting the yellow dyes extracted from the dried plants on the clays, with addition of water, and then heated at 140ºC. It was found that the addition of water in palygorskite would increase the pH, hence deprotonating the molecules having a clear negative effect in the color. A second recipe was developed, without the addition of water; however, it was found that the use of water based binders would still alter the color of the samples with palygorskite. In this case, kaolinite without heating yield better results as a Maya yellow hybrid. It was found that the Maya chemistry might not have been the same for all the colors. The Mesoamericans might have found that different dyes could work better to their desires if matched with different clays. It was noticeable that for a clear distinction between flavonoids and carotenoids the reflectance and emission studies suffice, but when clay is added, Raman techniques will perform better. For this reason, conventional Raman and SERS were employed in order to create a database for the Mesoamerican dyestuffs for a future identification.

Melanosome transfer between melanocytes and keratinocytes

RESUMO: A pele é o maior órgão do corpo humano e a sua pigmentação é essencial para a sua coloração e proteção contra os efeitos nocivos da radiação ultravioleta (UV). A pigmentação da pele resulta essencialmente de três processos: a síntese e o armazenamento de melanina pelos melanócitos, em organelos especializados denominados melanossomas; o transporte dos melanossomas dentro dos melanócitos; e finalmente, a transferência dos melanossomas para os queratinócitos adjacentes. Nos queratinócitos, a melanina migra para a região perinuclear apical da célula para formar um escudo protetor,responsável pela proteção do DNA dos danos causados pela radiação UV. Os melanócitos estão localizados na camada basal da epiderme e contactam com 30-40 queratinócitos. Em conjunto, estas células formam a “unidade melano-epidérmica”. Apesar dos processos de síntese e transporte de melanina nos melanócitos estarem bastante bem caracterizados, os mecanismos moleculares subjacentes à transferência inter-celular de melanina são menos conhecidos e ainda controversos. Dados preliminares obtidos pelo nosso grupo, que se basearam na observação de amostras de pele humana por microscopia electrónica, indicam que a forma predominante de transferência de melanina na epiderme consiste na exocitose dos melanossomas pelos melanócitos e subsequente endocitose da melanina por queratinócitos. Para além disso sabe-se que as proteínas Rab, que controlam o tráfego membranar, estão envolvidas em várias etapas de pigmentação da pele, nomeadamente na biogénese e no transporte de melanina. Assim, dado o seu papel fundamental nestes processos, questionámo-nos sobre o seu envolvimento na transferência de melanina. Com este trabalho, propomo-nos a expandir o conhecimento atual sobre a transferência de melanina na pele, através do estudo detalhado dos seus mecanismos moleculares, identificando as proteínas Rab que regulam o processo. Pretendemos também confirmar o modelo de exo/endocitose como sendo o mecanismo principal de transferência de melanina. Primeiro, explorámos a regulação da secreção de melanina pelos melanócitos e analisámos o papel de proteínas Rab neste processo. Os resultados foram obtidos recorrendo a um método in vitro, desenvolvido previamente no laboratório, que avalia a quantidade de melanina segregada para o meio de cultura por espectrofotometria, e ainda por microscopia, contando o número de melanossomas transferidos para os queratinócitos. Através de co-culturas de melanócitos e queratinócitos, verificou-se que os queratinócitos estimulam a libertação de melanina dos melanócitos para o meio extra-celular, bem como a sua transferência para os queratinócitos. Além disso, a proteína Rab11b foi identificada como um regulador da exocitose de melanina e da sua transferência para os queratinócitos. De facto, a diminuição da expressão de Rab11b em melanócitos provocou a redução da secreção de melanina estimulada por queratinócitos, bem como da transferência desta. Em segundo lugar, para complementar o nosso estudo, centrámos a nossa investigação na internalização de melanina por queratinócitos. Especificamente, usando uma biblioteca de siRNA, explorámos o envolvimento de proteínas Rab na captação de melanina por queratinócitos. Como primeira abordagem, usámos esferas fluorescentes como substituto de melanina, avaliando os resultados por citometria de fluxo. No entanto, este método revelou-se ineficaz uma vez que a internalização destas esferas é independente do recetor PAR-2 (recetor 2 ativado por protease), que foi previamente descrito como essencial na captação de melanina por queratinócitos Posteriormente, foi desenvolvido um novo protocolo de endocitose baseado em microscopia, usando melanossomas sem a membrana envolvente (melanocores) purificados do meio de cultura de melanócitos, incluindo um programa informático especialmente desenhado para realizar uma análise semi-automatizada. Após internalização, os melanocores acumulam-se na região perinuclear dos queratinócitos, em estruturas que se assemelham ao escudo supranuclear observado na pele humana. Seguidamente, o envolvimento do recetor PAR-2 na captação de melanocores por queratinócitos foi confirmado, utilizando o novo protocolo de endocitose desenvolvido. Para além disso, a necessidade de quatro proteínas Rab foi identificada na internalização de melanocores por queratinócitos. A redução da expressão de Rab1a ou Rab5b em queratinócitos diminuiu significativamente o nível de internalização de melanocores, enquanto o silenciamento da expressão de Rab2a ou Rab14 aumentou a quantidade de melanocores internalizados por estas células. Em conclusão, os resultados apresentados corroboram as observações anteriores, obtidas em amostras de pele humana, e sugerem que o mecanismo de transferência predominante é a exocitose de melanina pelos melanócitos, induzida por queratinócitos, seguida por endocitose pelos queratinócitos. A pigmentação da pele tem implicações tanto ao nível da cosmética, como ao nível médico, relacionadas com foto-envelhecimento e com doenças pigmentares. Assim sendo, ao esclarecer quais os mecanismos moleculares que regulam a transferência de melanina na pele, este trabalho pode conduzir ao desenvolvimento de novas estratégias para modular a pigmentação da pele.----------------ABSTRACT: Skin pigmentation is achieved through the highly regulated production of the pigment melanin in specialized organelles, termed melanosomes within melanocytes. These are transported from their site of synthesis to the melanocyte periphery before being transferred to keratinocytes where melanin forms a supra-nuclear cap to protect the DNA from UVinduced damage. Together, melanocytes and keratinocytes form a functional complex, termed “epidermal-melanin unit”, that confers color and photoprotective properties to the skin. Skin pigmentation requires three processes: the biogenesis of melanin; its intracelular transport within the melanocyte to the cell periphery; and the melanin transfer to keratinocytes. The first two processes have been extensively characterized. However, despite significant advances that have been made over the past few years, the mechanisms underlying inter-cellular transfer of pigment from melanocytes to keratinocytes remain controversial.Preliminary studies from our group using electron microscopy and human skin samples found evidence for a mechanism of coupled exocytosis-endocytosis. Rab GTPases are master regulators of intracellular trafficking and have already been implicated in several steps of skin pigmentation. Thus, we proposed to explore and characterize the molecular mechanisms of melanin transfer and the role of Rab GTPases in this process. Moreover, we investigated whether the exo/endocytosis model is the main mechanism of melanin transfer. We first focused on melanin exocytosis by melanocytes. Then, we started to investigate the key regulatory Rab proteins involved in this step by establishing an in vitro tissue culture model of melanin secretion. Using co-cultures of melanocytes and keratinocytes, we found that keratinocytes stimulate melanin release and transfer. Moreover, depletion of Rab11b decreases keratinocyte-induced melanin exocytosis by melanocytes. In order to determine whether melanin exocytosis is a predominant mechanism of melanin transfer, the amount of melanin transferred to keratinocytes was then assayed in conditions where melanin exocytosis was inhibited. Indeed, Rab11b depletion resulted in a significant decrease in melanin uptake by keratinocytes. Taken together, these observations suggest that Rab11b mediates melanosome exocytosis from melanocytes and transfer to keratinocytes. To complement and extend our study, we of melanin by keratinocytes. Thus, we aimed to explore the effect of depleting Rab GTPases on melanin uptake and trafficking within keratinocytes. As a first approach, we used fluorescent microspheres as a melanin surrogate. However, the uptake of microspheres was observed to be independent of PAR-2, a receptor that is required for melanin uptakecentred our attention in the internalization of melanin by keratinocytes. Thus, we aimed to explore the effect of depleting Rab GTPases on melanin uptake and trafficking within keratinocytes. As a first approach, we used fluorescent microspheres as a melanin surrogate. However, the uptake of microspheres was observed to be independent of PAR-2, a receptor that is required for melanin uptake.Therefore, we concluded that microspheres were uptaken by keratinocytes through a different pathway than melanin. Subsequently, we developed a microscopy-based endocytosis assay using purified melanocores (melanosomes lacking the limiting membrane) from melanocytes, including a program to perform a semi-automated analysis. Melanocores are taken up by keratinocytes and accumulate in structures in the perinuclear area that resemble the physiological supranuclear cap observed in human skin. We then confirmed the involvement of PAR-2 receptor in the uptake of melanocores by keratinocytes, using the newly developed assay. Furthermore, we identified the role of four Rab GTPases on the uptake of melanocores by keratinocytes. Depletion of Rab1a and Rab5b from keratinocytes significantly reduced the uptake of melanocores, whereas Rab2a, and Rab14 silencing increased the amount the melanocores internalized by XB2 keratinocytes. In conclusion, we present evidence supporting keratinocyte-inducedmelanosome exocytosis from melanocytes, followed by endocytosis of the melanin core by keratinocytes as the predominant mechanism of melanin transfer in skin. Although advances have been made, there is a need for more effective and safer therapies directed at pigmentation disorders and also treatments for cosmetic applications. Hence, the understanding of the above mechanisms of skin pigmentation will lead to a greater appreciation of the molecular machinery underlying human skin pigmentation and could interest the pharmaceutical and cosmetic industries.

O Comportamento do Consumidor Influenciado por Redes Sociais. Um Estudo de Caso das Empresas “O Boticário” e “Kiko Make Up Milano

A influência das práticas do Marketing nas redes sociais é o assunto central desta investigação. Muitos afirmam que o marketing digital afecta diretamente a vida das pessoas e consumidores. Saber em que momentos ou situações essa influência se dá é importante para estabelecer até que ponto os utilizadores permitem que o seu comportamento enquanto consumidor seja moldado. Incidindo sobre a área da cosmética, abordamos a questão da utilização de produtos de cosmética sob uma ótica sociológica que envolve desde a inserção da mulher no mercado de trabalho, os padrões de beleza existentes e o fenómeno da metrossexualidade que acontece desde os anos 2000. A investigação analisou o impacto do marketing nas redes sociais de “O Boticário” e “Kiko Make Up Milano”, duas empresas estrangeiras que actuam no mercado português de forma física e virtual. Do ponto de vista das redes sociais, o Facebook foi escolhido porque é a mais popular actualmente. A pesquisa utilizou como metodologia entrevistas e inquérito, este último alojado online. Após a realização da análise, foi constatado que “O Boticário” está mais adaptado ao mercado português, por meio de uma estratégia diferenciada, do que a “Kiko Make Up Milano”, que aplica a mesma estratégia vigente nas lojas do seu país de origem em Portugal. Foi verificado ainda que o Marketing praticado nas redes sociais aproxima as empresas do seus consumidores e muitas vezes os levam às lojas, seja para conhecer um novo produto ou para uma atitude de compra.

L'Oreal acquisition policy: The Body Shop case study

The Work Project I present focuses on the analysis of L’Oréal acquisition policy, trying to outline if the M&A deals it has led over the last 14 years have succeeded in creating value. By replicating the model proposed by Todd Hazelkorn, Marc Zenner and Anil Shivdasani in their paper “Creating Value with Mergers and Acquisitions”, I analyzed the 29 M&A deals that L’Oréal has led worldwide, understanding the common factors able to explain the success of such transactions. Further, I focused on The Body Shop case study, a highly criticized and controversial acquisition that has proved to be profitable and able to create value.