30 resultados para Illustrating fashion
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A Work Project, presented as part of the requirements for the Award of a Masters Degree in Management from the NOVA – School of Business and Economics
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Dissertation to obtain PhD in Industrial Engineering
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From 1995 to 2010 Portugal has accumulated a negative international asset position of 110 percent of GDP. In a developed and aging economy the number is astonishing and any argument to consider it sustainable must rely on extremely favorable forecasts on growth. Portuguese policy options are reduced in number: no autonomous monetary policy, no currency to devaluate, and limited discretion in changing fiscal deficits and government debt. To start the necessary deleveraging a remaining possible policy is a budget-neutral change of the tax structure that increases private saving and net exports. An increase in the VAT and a decrease in the employer’s social security contribution tax can achieve the desired outcome in the short run if they are complemented with wage moderation. To obtain a substantial improvement in competitiveness and a large decrease in consumption, the changes in the tax rates have to be large. While a precise quantitative assessment is difficult, the initial increase in the effective VAT rate needed to allow the social security tax to decrease by 16 percentage points (pp) is approximately 10 pp. Such a large increase in the effective VAT rate could be obtained by raising most of the reduced VAT rates to the new general VAT rate of 23 percent. The empirical analysis shows that over time the suggested tax swap could generate surpluses and improve the trade balance. A temporary version of the suggested tax-swap has the attractiveness to achieve a sharper increase in the private saving rate maintaining the short run gains in competitiveness. Finally, the temporary version of the fiscal devaluation could be the basis for an automatic stabilizer to external imbalances within a monetary union.Portugal has been running large current account deficits every year since 1995. These deficits have accumulated to an astonishing 110 percent of GDP negative external asset position. The sustainability of such a large external position is questionable and must rely on fantastic productivity growth expectations. The recent global financial crisis appears to have anticipated the international investors reality check on those future expectations with the result of a large increase in the cost of external financing. Today the rebalancing of the current account through an increase in national savings and an improvement in competitiveness must be at the top of the Portuguese authorities “to do” list as the cost of a pull out from international investors is of the order of 10% of GDP. The external rebalancing is difficult as the degrees of freedom of the Portuguese authorities are limited in number: they have no autonomous monetary policy, no currency to devaluate, and little discretion in fiscal policy as deficit limits and debt targets are set by the Stability Growth Pact and the postcrisis consensus on medium-term fiscal consolidation. One possibility that remains is to change the fiscal policy mix for a given budget deficit. The purpose of this paper is to explore the effects of a “fiscal devaluation”1 obtained through a tax swap between employers’ social security contributions and taxes on consumption2. The paper begins by illustrating Portugal’s current account evolution during the euro period. The second section section lays out a model to offer a qualitative assessment of the dynamic outcomes of the the tax swap. I show that the suggested tax swap can in theory achieve the desired outcomes in terms of competitiveness and consumption if complemented with moderation (stickiness) in wages. I also study the effects of a temporary version of the tax swap and show that it achieves a sharper improvement in the current account that accelerate the rebalancing. The third section moves to the empirical analysis and estimates the likely effects of the tax swap for the Portuguese economy. The fourth section concludes.
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RESUMO - Introdução: O presente trabalho, desenvolvido ao longo dos últimos meses, teve como objetivo analisar comparativamente o impacto das Unidades Locais de Saúde e dos Agrupamentos de Centros de Saúde no processo de articulação entre cuidados de saúde primários e hospitais. Para tal, foram avaliadas as seguintes variáveis: frequência de contacto entre médicos de família e especialistas; percentagem de informação de retorno recebida pelos médicos de família; percentagem de recusas recebida pelos médicos de família; e tempo de espera entre o pedido das consultas hospitalares e a efetivação das mesmas para as especialidades mais referenciadas. As instituições escolhidas para o estudo foram a Unidade Local de Saúde de Castelo Branco e o ACeS Cova da Beira. Metodologia: O instrumento de medida utilizado para este estudo foi um questionário, com questões de resposta aberta e fechada, dirigido a médicos de família da Unidade Local de Saúde de Castelo Branco e do ACeS Cova da Beira, pretendendo assim averiguar a perceção que os mesmos têm em relação às variáveis descritas no tópico da Introdução. Resultados: Segundo dados estatísticos, meramente descritivos, os médicos de família da ULSCB apresentaram uma frequência de contacto inferior aos médicos de família do ACeS com os médicos hospitalares, e a percentagem de informação de retorno recebida pelos médicos de família da ULSCB revelou ser também inferior à recebida pelos médicos de família do ACeS. No entanto, as diferenças encontradas não puderam ser confirmadas para a amostra existente, uma vez que o teste Qui-quadrado foi inconclusivo. Quanto à percentagem de recusas recebida pelos médicos de família de ambas as instituições, e aos tempos de espera para a realização das consultas das especialidades mais referenciadas pelo ACeS Cova da Beira e pela ULSCB, a ULSCB não mostrou desvantagem significativa, mas também não revelou superioridade. Conclusão: As principais conclusões extraídas deste estudo vão no sentido de questionar a eficácia do modelo de organização institucional das ULS | Unidades Locais de Saúde no que diz respeito à articulação entre cuidados de saúde primários e cuidados de saúde hospitalares, em particular, no que se refere à partilha de informação clínica e à eficiência do processo de referenciação para consultas hospitalares.
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A Work Project, presented as part of the requirements for the Award of a Masters Degree in Management from the NOVA – School of Business and Economics
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A Work Project, presented as part of the requirements for the Award of a Masters Degree in Management from the NOVA – School of Business and Economics
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The aim of this paper is to identify, analyse and question the expressions of humour in O Espreitador do Mundo Novo, a monthly periodical published by José Daniel Rodrigues da Costa throughout 1802. It is a chapter of a PhD thesis in History and Theory of Ideas with the title “Correcting by laughter. Humour in Portuguese periodical press 1797-1834”. Positing humour as a social and cultural phenomenon, it is regarded here in a broad sense, comprehending wit, joke, ridicule, satire, jest, mockery, facetiousness or irony, displayed with recourse to various figures of speech. This interdisciplinary work intends listing and researching the themes and issues of the periodical and its targets, namely the social, age or gender stereotypes and to acknowledge its political stances. Another main purpose of this paper is to assess the role of humour as expressed in the printed periodical as a political and social weapon, criticizing ways (and which ways) and/or fashions, often ridiculing novelty just for being new in order to maintain the statu quo, and to establish in which senses humour was used in the context of late Ancien Régime and early liberalism culture. The humour of O Espreitador has also played a part in framing a public sphere in early nineteenth-century Portugal, as can be seen by the different “stages” and backgrounds where the monthly installments of the periodical take place: squares, coffee houses, fairgrounds, private houses, jailhouses, churches, public promenades, pilgrimages, bullfights, parties, the opera house – each of them a space of sociability and socialization. In this one, as in other periodicals of the time, printed humour stands at the crossroads of politics and culture, in spaces boldly widening before the reader. Albeit, there are quite a few loud silences in O Espreitador: not even the slightest remark to the church, the clergy or the Inquisition, only reverential references to the established order and the powers that be. The periodical criticizes the criticizers; it is against those who are against. The repeated disclaimers are intended not only to protect the author from libel suits or other litigation. They belong to a centuries-old tradition which, as early as the Middle Ages, has set apart escárnio (scorn) from maldizer (slander): José Daniel Rodrigues da Costa distinguishes satire from rebuking vice – a “cheerful criticism” forerunner of the ironic humour which was to become a trademark of Portuguese literature in the second half of the nineteenth century. Targeting those who deviate from the social norm (for example social climbers and older women who marry young men) or the followers of fashion (sometimes specifically “French fashion”), O Espreitador charges at liberal and progressive ideas. It ridicules the ways of the “New World” in order to perpetuate an idealized version of the “Old World”. Notwithstanding two exceptions – it condemns racism and bullfighting –, the humour of O Espreitador is conservative and conformist from a social and political standpoint.
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This project studies the Portuguese female fashion market. We intend to determine patterns of consumer brand loyalty across brands and ages. By interviewing 8 young adults and surveying 125 teens and 87 adults, we found that brands’ segmentation by usage per age segment is related with differentiation in brand loyalty and peer pressure. We also found that teens have higher attitudinal brand loyalty while adults have higher behavioral loyalty. Moreover, brand loyalty in teens is more susceptible to peer pressure. The results imply that customer relationship management strategies should be differentiated according to age segment. We also derive marketing implications with a focus on each brand’s loyalty profile.
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Few studies have been conducted on causal antecedents for electronic loyalty regarding the online fashion industry. In Portugal there is no systematic empirical research in this area. This study aims to examine e-satisfaction and e-trust that potentially impact eloyalty. It also examines the impact of price, website design and selection of brands. A research study was performed at GIRISSIMA.COM and survey responses were 77. The findings show that e-satisfaction is the main driver of e-loyalty. E-trust, website design and price affect positively e-loyalty. Additionally, selection of brands was proved to impact e-loyalty through e-satisfaction and e-trust.
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Objects matter when professionals collaborate to create new products. Chapter 1 explains the intention of this work, to apply theories on objects in the empirical context of fashion design. Chapter 2 addresses the question of how creative professionals learn about and use strategy tools to turn their artistic fame into a commercial success. For Chapter 3 I collected ethnographic data on the development of a seasonal collection from the idea to the presentation at Fashion Week. The result is a deep insight into the collaborative processes and material objects used when a stable team of designers works with several outside experts. Chapter 4 applies the knowledge of the role of objects in fashion design gained during the ethnography in the context of online co-creation and crowd sourced fashion items. The synthesis of the empirical studies allows me to present the conceptual leap in Chapter 5. In the theoretical essay I review the findings on the role of objects in collaborations in relation to practice theory, present the new concept of the comprehensive object and conclude by stating the possibilities for future research.
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Economics is a social science which, therefore, focuses on people and on the decisions they make, be it in an individual context, or in group situations. It studies human choices, in face of needs to be fulfilled, and a limited amount of resources to fulfill them. For a long time, there was a convergence between the normative and positive views of human behavior, in that the ideal and predicted decisions of agents in economic models were entangled in one single concept. That is, it was assumed that the best that could be done in each situation was exactly the choice that would prevail. Or, at least, that the facts that economics needed to explain could be understood in the light of models in which individual agents act as if they are able to make ideal decisions. However, in the last decades, the complexity of the environment in which economic decisions are made and the limits on the ability of agents to deal with it have been recognized, and incorporated into models of decision making in what came to be known as the bounded rationality paradigm. This was triggered by the incapacity of the unboundedly rationality paradigm to explain observed phenomena and behavior. This thesis contributes to the literature in three different ways. Chapter 1 is a survey on bounded rationality, which gathers and organizes the contributions to the field since Simon (1955) first recognized the necessity to account for the limits on human rationality. The focus of the survey is on theoretical work rather than the experimental literature which presents evidence of actual behavior that differs from what classic rationality predicts. The general framework is as follows. Given a set of exogenous variables, the economic agent needs to choose an element from the choice set that is avail- able to him, in order to optimize the expected value of an objective function (assuming his preferences are representable by such a function). If this problem is too complex for the agent to deal with, one or more of its elements is simplified. Each bounded rationality theory is categorized according to the most relevant element it simplifes. Chapter 2 proposes a novel theory of bounded rationality. Much in the same fashion as Conlisk (1980) and Gabaix (2014), we assume that thinking is costly in the sense that agents have to pay a cost for performing mental operations. In our model, if they choose not to think, such cost is avoided, but they are left with a single alternative, labeled the default choice. We exemplify the idea with a very simple model of consumer choice and identify the concept of isofin curves, i.e., sets of default choices which generate the same utility net of thinking cost. Then, we apply the idea to a linear symmetric Cournot duopoly, in which the default choice can be interpreted as the most natural quantity to be produced in the market. We find that, as the thinking cost increases, the number of firms thinking in equilibrium decreases. More interestingly, for intermediate levels of thinking cost, an equilibrium in which one of the firms chooses the default quantity and the other best responds to it exists, generating asymmetric choices in a symmetric model. Our model is able to explain well-known regularities identified in the Cournot experimental literature, such as the adoption of different strategies by players (Huck et al. , 1999), the inter temporal rigidity of choices (Bosch-Dom enech & Vriend, 2003) and the dispersion of quantities in the context of di cult decision making (Bosch-Dom enech & Vriend, 2003). Chapter 3 applies a model of bounded rationality in a game-theoretic set- ting to the well-known turnout paradox in large elections, pivotal probabilities vanish very quickly and no one should vote, in sharp contrast with the ob- served high levels of turnout. Inspired by the concept of rhizomatic thinking, introduced by Bravo-Furtado & Côrte-Real (2009a), we assume that each per- son is self-delusional in the sense that, when making a decision, she believes that a fraction of the people who support the same party decides alike, even if no communication is established between them. This kind of belief simplifies the decision of the agent, as it reduces the number of players he believes to be playing against { it is thus a bounded rationality approach. Studying a two-party first-past-the-post election with a continuum of self-delusional agents, we show that the turnout rate is positive in all the possible equilibria, and that it can be as high as 100%. The game displays multiple equilibria, at least one of which entails a victory of the bigger party. The smaller one may also win, provided its relative size is not too small; more self-delusional voters in the minority party decreases this threshold size. Our model is able to explain some empirical facts, such as the possibility that a close election leads to low turnout (Geys, 2006), a lower margin of victory when turnout is higher (Geys, 2006) and high turnout rates favoring the minority (Bernhagen & Marsh, 1997).
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A presente tese enfrenta o tema do documentário e da ficção no cinema de etnoficção português pondo ao centro deste binómio o vestuário como fenómeno, ora votado a explicitar a verosimilhança das sequencias, ora ferramenta para criar uma simulação da realidade. Tratamos o termo etnoficção como se fosse um género cinematográfico e escolhemos, como exemplo de analise, 3 trilogias do cinema português. Tratamos o vestuário de acordo com os novos conceitos do corpo revestido que veem da Fashion Theory e nossas bases teóricas serão Simmel e Bogatyrev, Barthes e Calefato, entre outros. Analisar o vestuário de filmes por género ajuda por um lado na criação de uma primeira definição de todo este tipo de vestuário e por outro a compreender a sua importância dentro de uma obra fílmica. As partes teóricas sobre Fashion Theory e sobre o conceito de etno-ficção serão depois aplicadas aos filmes escolhidos, tentando ampliar os conhecimentos através da introdução de outros autores que se debruçaram sobre os dois assuntos, ao fim de unificar os dois conceitos, do corpo revestido e da etno-ficção, num só, de vestuário cinematográfico. Filmes analisados. Trilogia do Mar, de Leitão de Barros: Nazaré, praia de pescadores (1927), Maria do Mar (1929), Ala arriba! (1942); Trilogia de Trás-os-Montes, de António Reis e Margarina Cordeiro: Trás-os-Montes (1976), Ana (1984), Rosa de areia (1989); Trilogia das Fontainhas, de Pedro Costa: Ossos (1997), O quarto da Vanda (2000), Juventude em marcha (2006).
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RESUMO - A qualidade dos cuidados de saúde, evolui ao longo dos tempos e é agora considerada um direito e um pilar fundamental nos serviços de saúde. As reclamações dos utentes podem revelar informação acerca das experiências entre os utentes e as organizações de saúde. Desta forma as reclamações podem ser consideradas como indicadores de qualidade que permitem identificar áreas e/ou oportunidades de melhoria, e de grande representatividade no processo da melhoria contínua da qualidade na saúde. Sendo fundamental dar voz aos utentes do SNS e possibilitar a sua participação activa no processo de melhoria da prestação dos cuidados de saúde, com este trabalho pretendeu-se estudar a forma como as reclamações dos utentes nos ACES na Região de Saúde de Lisboa e Vale do Tejo, contribuem para a melhoria da qualidade nos referidos serviços de saúde. Foram reconhecidas e analisadas as principais causas de reclamação, as correspondentes medidas correctivas e as necessidades e/ou dificuldades no seu processo de implementação, bem como a respectiva avaliação dos resultados obtidos e identificação das recomendações dos Coordenadores dos Gabinetes do Utente no âmbito dos ACES da Região de Saúde de LVT. Efectuou-se a análise de revisão bibliográfica e a consulta dos dados, desagregados, das causas mais mencionadas nas reclamações no âmbito do estudo e foram realizados contactos informais com a estrutura regional e nacional do Sistema SIM-Cidadão. Foram aplicados 15 questionários aos Coordenadores Locais dos Gabinetes do Cidadão dos ACES da ARSLVT, apresentando a investigação um carácter exploratório e qualitativo. Os questionários, foram enviados e recebidos anonimamente através da plataforma para estudos estatísticos Survey Monkey. A sua análise e interpretação, foi efectuada de forma a organizar os seus dados de uma forma sistematizada e permitir categorizar a informação para permitir a sua análise. Os resultados evidenciaram que as reclamações dos utentes apresentadas nos Gabinetes do Cidadão, de certa forma, foram um contributo para o processo da melhoria da qualidade nos ACES da Região de Saúde de Lisboa e Vale do Tejo através do adopção de medidas e acções correctivas, ultrapassando algumas limitações devida à criação de estratégias locais. No entanto foi evidente que algumas limitações não foram passiveis de ser ultrapassadas, pois envolvem decisões do âmbito externo aos ACES. Os resultados alcançados e as recomendações dos Coordenadores, podem evidenciar algumas mudanças organizacionais, mas transparecem a ideia de que existe ainda um longo caminho a percorrer.
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The “Logoplaste: Conquering the world one bottle at a time” case is based on the real story of the Botton family and their journey to build the globally known company Logoplaste. Famous for its “hole in the wall” strategy within the plastics industry, Logoplaste is not only one of the major plastic bottles manufacturers in the world, but also a company which has been proving us that a shared leadership system can be successful within a family business. This case intendeds to demonstrate the dynamics of a family business, illustrating the complexity of the decision making process and how they have successfully mastered dual management in a family firm. Moreover, it also aims to demonstrate that a family firm can be managed in such way that sustainable growth, as a key pillar, can be enabled through a strong focus on internationalization and innovation. A teaching note is available at the end of the case in order to guide students and teachers in their readings. Discussions questions, for debate in class environment, are also provided together with suggested answers drawn together to increase the critical sense and theoretical application of the themes studied in class.
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It’s impossible to neglect the changes that internet and e-commerce caused in the retail sector, by increasing customers’ expectations and forcing retailers to adapt the business to the new digital era. Internet is characterized by the increase in accessibility to everyone, which can be good or not so. For instance, luxury products rely on the sense of exclusivity, instead of being accessible to everyone. Hence, internet represents a challenge for luxury brands once, although they are able to provide a fullness service to their customers, they need to maintain the exclusiveness in which luxury is sustained. Consequently, the appearance of omni-channel was more than a challenge for the luxury sector, in particular, given the need to provide a full integrated experience through different channels. The aim of this dissertation is to find out how important is omni-channel, even in the luxury industry, and how it’s actually implemented based on the case of one of the most successful companies on luxury fashion e-commerce industry – Farfetch. Even though the company started in London, its founder is a Portuguese entrepreneur, and it’s in Portugal where most of its employees work, divided in two offices – Guimarães e Porto. Therefore, a literature review was written on relevant concepts and ideas about luxury, e-commerce and the different channels’ approaches. There were formulated five propositions that were after discussed according to the information gathered about the company and its strategies. In the end, it was possible to identify which propositions are in accordance with theory and which are not, as well as understand which are the most important strategies and trends about omni-channel in the luxury fashion e-commerce sector.