Chemical and radiological characterization of clay minerals used in pharmaceutics and cosmetics

Since the early days, clays have been used for therapeutic purposes. Nowadays, they are used as active ingredients or as excipient in formulations for a variety of purposes. Despite their wide use, little information is available in literature on their content of trace elements and radionuclides. The purpose of this study was to determine the elements (As, Ba, Br, Cs, Co, Cr, Eu, Fe, Hf, Hg, La, Lu, Rb, Sb, Sc, Sm, Ta, Tb, Yb, Zn, and Zr) and the radionuclides ((238)U, (232)Th, (226)Ra, (228)Ra, (210)Pb and (40)K) in Brazilian clays as well as the health and radiological implications of the use of these clays in pharmaceutical formulations. (C) 2011 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.

Nutritional reserves of Vochysiaceae seeds: chemical diversity and potential economic uses

Contents of proteins, carbohydrates and oil of seeds of 57 individuals of Vochysiaceae, involving one species of Callisthene, six of Qualea, one of Salvertia and eight of Vochysia were determined. The main nutritional reserves of Vochysiaceae seeds are proteins (20% in average) and oils (21. 6%). Mean of carbohydrate contents was 5. 8%. Callisthene showed the lowest protein content (16. 9%), while Q. cordata was the species with the highest content (30% in average). The contents of ethanol soluble carbohydrates were much higher than those of water soluble carbohydrates. Oil contents lay above 20% for most species (30. 4% in V. pygmaea and V. pyramidalis seeds). The predominant fatty acids are lauric (Q. grandiflora), oleic (Qualea and Salvertia) or acids with longer carbon chains (Salvertia and a group of Vochysia species). The distribution of Vochysiaceae fatty acids suggests for seeds of some species an exploitation as food sources (predominance of oleic acid), for other species an alternative to cocoa butter (high contents or predominance of stearic acid) or the production of lubricants, surfactants, detergents, cosmetics and plastic (predominance of acids with C20 or C22 chains) or biodiesel (predominance of monounsaturated acids). The possibility of exploitation of Vochysiaceae products in a cultivation regimen and in extractive reserves is discussed.

Genetic diversity of turmeric germplasm (Curcuma longa; Zingiberaceae) identified by microsatellite markers

Turmeric (Curcuma longa) is a triploid, vegetatively propagated crop introduced early during the colonization of Brazil. Turmeric rhizomes are ground into a powder used as a natural dye in the food industry, although recent research suggests a greater potential for the development of drugs and cosmetics. In Brazil, little is known about the genetic variability available for crop improvement. We examined the genetic diversity among turmeric accessions from a Brazilian germplasm collection comprising 39 accessions collected from the States of Goias, Mato Grosso do Sul, Minas Gerais, Sao Paulo, and Para. For comparison, 18 additional genotypes were analyzed, including samples from India and Puerto Rico. Total DNA was extracted from lyophilized leaf tissue and genetic analysis was performed using 17 microsatellite markers (single-sequence repeats). Shannon-Weiner indexes ranged from 0.017 (Minas Gerais) to 0.316 (Sao Paulo). Analyses of molecular variance (AMOVA) demonstrated major differences between countries (63.4%) and that most of the genetic diversity in Brazil is found within states (75.3%). Genotypes from Sao Paulo State were the most divergent and potentially useful for crop improvement. Structure analysis indicated two main groups of accessions. These results can help target future collecting efforts for introduction of new materials needed to develop more productive and better adapted cultivars.

Chemoenzymatic synthesis: a strategy to obtain xylitol monoesters

BACKGROUND: Fatty acid sugar esters are used as non-ionic surfactants in cosmetics, foodstuffs and pharmaceuticals. In particular, monoesters of xylitol have attracted industrial interest due to their outstanding biological activities. In this work, xylitol monoesters were obtained by chemoenzymatic synthesis, in which, first, xylitol was made soluble in organic solvent by chemo-protecting reaction, followed by enzymatic esterification reaction using different acyl donors. A commercial immobilized Candida antartica lipase was used as catalyst, and reactions with pure xylitol were carried out to generate data for comparison. RESULTS: t-BuOH was found to be the most suitable solvent to carry out esterification reactions with both pure and protected xylitol. The highest yields were obtained for reactions carried out with pure xylitol, but in this case by-products, such as di- and tri-esters isomers were formed, which required a multi-step purification process. For the systems with protected xylitol, conversions of 86%, 58% and 24% were achieved using oleic, lauric and butyric acids, respectively. The structures of the monoesters were confirmed by (13)C- and (1)H-NMR and microanalysis. CONCLUSION: The chemoenzymatic synthesis of xylitol monoesters avoided laborious downstream processing when compared with reactions performed with pure xylitol. Monoesters production from protected xylitol was shown to be a practical, economical, and clean route for this process, allowing a simple separation, because there are no other products formed besides xylitol monoesters and residual xylitol. (C) 2009 Society of Chemical Industry

Chlorogenic Acid UVA-UVB Photostability

Chlorogenic acid is a natural potent antioxidant. It can be used in cosmetics formulations, but for this purpose its photochemical stability should be determined to ensure that the compound will not be degraded after UV radiation exposure. To evaluate this possibility, the concentration of a chlorogenic acid solution was determined by HPLC before and after UVA and UVB irradiation. The results indicate that chlorogenic acid is not degraded under UVA or UVB irradiation.

Rubus rosaefolius Extract as a Natural Preservative Candidate in Topical Formulations

Even though the synthetic preservatives may offer a high antimicrobial efficacy, they are commonly related to adverse reactions and regarded as having potentially harmful effects caused by chronic consumption. The development of natural preservatives provides a way of reducing the amount of synthetic preservatives normally used in pharmaceutical and cosmetic preparations. In addition, these agents have less toxic effects and represent a possible natural and safer alternative of the preservatives. The purpose of this research was to evaluate the Rubus rosaefolius Smith extract efficiency as a natural preservative in base formulations. Of the extract, 0.2% (w/w) was assayed for its effectiveness of antimicrobial protection in two different base formulations (emulsion and gel). The microbial challenge test was performed following the standard procedures proposed by The United States Pharmacopoeia 33nd, European Pharmacopoeia 6th, Japanese Pharmacopoeia 15th, and the Cosmetics, Toiletries, and Fragrance Association using standardized microorganisms. The results demonstrated that R. rosaefolius extract at the studied concentration reduced the bacterial inocula, satisfying the criterion in all formulations, even though it was not able to present an effective preservative behavior against fungi. Thus, the investigation of new natural substances with preservative properties that could be applied in pharmaceutical and cosmetic products is relevant due to the possibility of substituting or decreasing the concentration of synthetic preservatives, providing a way for the development of safer formulas for the use of consumers.

Influence of the Photostabilizer in the Photoprotective Effects of a Formulation Containing UV-Filters and Vitamin A

Vitamin A palmitate has been used in cosmetics; however, studies report that this substance shows photoreactivity that can lead to loss of safety and efficacy. On the other hand, photostabilizers have been used to increase sunscreen photostability and consequently their safety and effectiveness. Thus, this study aimed to evaluate the influence of photostabilizers on the photoprotective effects of a cosmetic formulation containing UV-filters and vitamin A palmitate. The formulation containing UV-filters was supplemented with vitamin A palmitate and the photostabilizers diethylhexyl 2,6-naphthalate (DEHN), bumetrizole and benzotriazolyl dodecyl p-cresol (BTDC). Hairless mice were treated daily by topical applications and irradiated (UVA/B). Erythema index, transepidermal water loss, histological/histometric analysis and number of sunburn cells (SBC) were evaluated. The results showed that all formulations protected from UV-induced enhancement of erythema and SBC but there was no difference among them. The formulation with no stabilizers reduced viable epidermis thickness due to atrophy induced by UV radiation. Thus, it can be concluded that the presence of photostabilizers influenced the effects of formulations containing UV-filters and vitamin A palmitate, which could be seen by histological and histometric analysis. Furthermore, the formulations containing the stabilizers DEHN and BTDC showed better protective effects on hairless mice skin.

A HPLC method to evaluate the influence of photostabilizers on cosmetic formulations containing UV-filters and vitamins A and E

This paper reports a simple and reliable HPLC method to evaluate the influence of two currently available photostabilizers on cosmetic formulations containing combined UV-filters and vitamins A and E. Vitamins and UV-filters, widely encountered in products of daily use have to be routinely evaluated since photoinstability can lead to reductions in their efficacy and safety. UV-irradiated formulation samples were submitted to a procedure that included a reliable, precise and specific HPLC method employing a C18 column and detection at 325 and 235 nm. Methanol, isopropanol and water were the mobile phases in gradient elution. The method precision was between 0.28 and 5.07. The photostabilizers studied [diethylhexyl 2,6-naphthalate (DEHN) and benzotriazolyl dodecyl p-cresol (BTDC)], influenced the stability of octyl methoxycinnamate (OMC) associated with vitamins A and E. BTDC was considered the best photostabilizer to vitamins and OMC when the UV-filters were combined with both vitamins A and E. (C) 2010 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.

Evaluation of dermatological effects of cosmetic formulations containing Saccharomyces cerevisiae extract and vitamins

Saccharomyces cerevisiae extract (SCE) is used in cosmetics since it can act in oxidative stress and improve skin conditions. This study investigated dermatological effects of cosmetic formulations containing SCE and/or vitamins A, C and E. The formulation studied was supplemented or not (F1: vehicle) with vitamins A, C and E esters (F2) or with SCE (F3) or with the combination of vitamins and SCE (F4). Formulations were patch tested on back skin of volunteers. For efficacy studies, formulations were applied on volunteers and transepidermal water loss (TEWL), skin moisture (SM), skin microrelief (SMR) and free radicals protection were analysed after 3 h, 15 and 30 days of application. Volunteers were also asked about efficacy perception. It was observed that F4 provoked a slight erythema in one volunteer. All formulations enhanced forearm SM. Only F3 and F4 presented long term effects on SMR and showed higher texture values; F3 had the highest brightness values. Our results suggest that vitamins and SCE showed effects in SM and SMR. Only formulations containing SC had long term effects in the improvement of SMR. Thus, these kinds of evaluations are very important in cosmetics development to evaluate the best risk and benefit correlation. (C) 2008 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.

Simultaneous analysis of parabens in cosmetic products by stir bar sorptive extraction and liquid chromatography

A sensitive and precise stir bar sorptive extraction (SBSE) combined with LC (SBSE/LC) analysis is described for simultaneous determination of methyl, ethyl, propyl, and butyl parabens in commercial cosmetic products in agreement with the European Union Cosmetics Directive 76/768/EEC. Important factors in the optimization of SB SE efficiency are discussed, such as time and temperature of extraction, pH, and ionic strength of the sample, matrix effects, and liquid desorption conditions by different modes (magnetic stirring, ultrasonic). The LOQs of the SBSE/LC method ranged from 30 to 200 ng/mg, with linear response over a dynamic range, from the LOQ to 2.5 mu g/mg, with a coefficient of determination higher than 0.993. The interday precision of the SBSE/LC method presented a coefficient of variation lower than 5%. The effectiveness of the proposed method was proven for analysis of commercial cosmetic products such as body creams, antiperspirant creams, and sunscreens.

Right adolescent idiopathic thoracic curve (Lenke 1 A and B): does cost of instrumentation and implant density improve radiographic and cosmetic parameters?

In adolescent idiopathic scoliosis (AIS) there has been a shift towards increasing the number of implants and pedicle screws, which has not been proven to improve cosmetic correction. To evaluate if increasing cost of instrumentation correlates with cosmetic correction using clinical photographs. 58 Lenke 1A and B cases from a multicenter AIS database with at least 3 months follow-up of clinical photographs were used for analysis. Cosmetic parameters on PA and forward bending photographs included angular measurements of trunk shift, shoulder balance, rib hump, and ratio measurements of waist line asymmetry. Pre-op and follow-up X-rays were measured for coronal and sagittal deformity parameters. Cost density was calculated by dividing the total cost of instrumentation by the number of vertebrae being fused. Linear regression and spearman`s correlation were used to correlate cost density to X-ray and photo outcomes. Three independent observers verified radiographic and cosmetic parameters for inter/interobserver variability analysis. Average pre-op Cobb angle and instrumented correction were 54A degrees (SD 12.5) and 59% (SD 25) respectively. The average number of vertebrae fused was 10 (SD 1.9). The total cost of spinal instrumentation ranged from $6,769 to $21,274 (Mean $12,662, SD $3,858). There was a weak positive and statistically significant correlation between Cobb angle correction and cost density (r = 0.33, p = 0.01), and no correlation between Cobb angle correction of the uninstrumented lumbar spine and cost density (r = 0.15, p = 0.26). There was no significant correlation between all sagittal X-ray measurements or any of the photo parameters and cost density. There was good to excellent inter/intraobserver variability of all photographic parameters based on the intraclass correlation coefficient (ICC 0.74-0.98). Our method used to measure cosmesis had good to excellent inter/intraobserver variability, and may be an effective tool to objectively assess cosmesis from photographs. Since increasing cost density only improves mildly the Cobb angle correction of the main thoracic curve and not the correction of the uninstrumented spine or any of the cosmetic parameters, one should consider the cost of increasing implant density in Lenke 1A and B curves. In the area of rationalization of health care expenses, this study demonstrates that increasing the number of implants does not improve any relevant cosmetic or radiographic outcomes.

Reproductive development and function of female rats exposed to di-eta-butyl-phthalate (DBP) in utero and during lactation

Phthalates are environmental contaminants used in the production of plastics, cosmetics and medical devices. Studies on the effects of phthalates on female reproductive health are particularly sparse and mostly restricted to high-dose exposure in rats. In the present study, pregnant rats were treated with 100 mg/kg-d of di-eta-butyl-phthalate (DBP) or only the vehicle (control group), from GD 12 to GD 20 for evaluation of reproductive outcomes and fetal gonads analysis (F0), and from GD 12 to PND 21 to evaluate reproductive development and function on F1 female offspring. Results showed that all parameters were comparable between groups, although there was a significant increase in the fetal weight after DBP exposure. However, the body weight at birth was normal. Based on these data we can conclude that, in these experimental conditions, DBP did not disturb the reproductive development or function of female rats. (C) 2009 Elsevier Inc. All rights reserved.

Dietary Quality and Associated Factors among Factory Workers in the Metropolitan Region of Sao Paulo, Brazil

The workplace is a manageable community-based setting for ensuring proper nutrition. This study aimed to evaluate dietary quality and associated factors among adult workers at a cosmetics factory in the metropolitan area of Sao Paulo, Brazil. This factory was actively participating in the Brazilian Workers` Meal Program, which was created to ensure workers` nutritional health. In this cross-sectional study, data on 202 adult workers were assessed using questionnaires (sociodemographic, anthropometric, and lifestyle characteristics) administered during August and September 2006. Dietary intake, measured by 24-hour dietary recall, was used to calculate the modified Healthy Eating Index (HEI). A repeated administration of the 24-hour dietary recall was applied in a random subsample to calculate the modified HEI adjusted for the within-person variation in intake. Mean adjusted modified HEI scores were analyzed using multiple linear regression adjusted for energy. The mean adjusted modified HEI score was 72.3 +/- 8.0. The lowest adjusted modified HEI components scores were ""milk and dairy products"" (4.4 +/- 3.2) and ""sodium"" (3.7 +/- 3.1). Two percent of workers had ""poor diet"" (adjusted modified HEI score <51 points) and the majority (87%) had ""diet that needs modification"" (adjusted modified HEI score between 51 and 80), despite their participation in the meal program. Adjusted modified HEI scores were considerably higher for men (74.7 +/- 7.0) than for women (66.9 +/- 8.2) and for normal body mass index (calculated as kg/m(2)) (73.3 +/- 7.8) than for overweight/obese (70.9 +/- 8.1). Based on these results, the vast majority of workers were found to have diets that needed improvement. Individuals with higher-quality diets were more likely to have lower body mass index and to be male. J Am Diet Assoc. 2010;110:786-790.

COMPOSITION OF SUPERCRITICAL CARBON DIOXIDE EXTRACTS OF PITANGA (EUGENIA UNIFLORA L.) LEAVES

The leaves of the Pitanga bush (Eugenia uniflora L.) are considered to be effective against many diseases. Extracts from Pitanga leaves have been found to show pronounced anti-inflammatory action and to have antimicrobial and antifungal activities, among other properties. In this work, extracts from Pitanga leaves were obtained by hydrodistillation and by extraction with supercritical carbon dioxide (SC-CO(2)) at three conditions of temperature and pressure. In the SC-CO(2) extractions also were collected the components that are lost with the CO(2) in the exit of the system using Porapak-Q polymer trap. All extracts were analyzed by gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC-MS). Thirty-nine compounds were found in the extracts and twenty-six were identified. The main components identified in the extracts in decreasing quantitative order were: curzerene, germacrene B, C(15)H(20)O(2) and beta-elemene for hydrodistillation; C(15)H(20)O(2) and curzerene for SC-CO(2) extracts and 3-hexen-1-ol, curzerene, C(15)H(20)O(2), beta-elemene and germacrene B for SC-CO(2) extracts captured in Porapak-Q. PRACTICAL APPLICATIONS The natural extracts are a potential source of compounds possessing biological activities. They can be used in foods, pharmaceutics and cosmetics. Pitanga is an exotic fruit from Brazil and extracts from its leaves have been used against many diseases in Brazilian folk medicine. Supercritical extraction is an interesting process for the production of natural extracts because it is a clean process and the knowledge of composition of extracts is crucial for the identification of the probable active components.

Characterization of protein hydrolysates of cosmetic use by CE-MS

Protein hydrolysates have been used as active principles in cosmetic products conferring different properties to the final formulations, which are mostly controlled by the peptide size and its amino acid sequence. In this work, capillary electrophoresis coupled to mass spectrometry analyses were carried out in order to investigate such characteristics of protein hydrolysates. Samples of different origins (milk, soy and rice) were obtained from a local company, and were analyzed without a previous preparation step. The background electrolyte (BGE) and sheath liquid compositions were optimized for each sample. The best BGE composition (860 mmol/L formic acid - pH 1.8 - in 70: 30 v/v water/methanol hydro-organic solvent) was chosen based on the overall peak resolution whereas the best sheath liquid was selected based on increased sensitivity and presented different compositions to each sample (10.9-217 mmol/L formic acid in 75: 25-25: 75 v/v water/methanol hydro-organic solvent). Most of the putative peptides in the hydrolysate samples under investigation presented molecular masses of 1000 Da or less. De novo sequencing was carried out for some of the analytes, revealing the hydrophobicity/polarity of the peptides. Hence, the technique has proved to be an advantageous tool for the quality control of industrial protein hydrolysates.