15 resultados para Textiles and Clothing

em QUB Research Portal - Research Directory and Institutional Repository for Queen's University Belfast


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How do multilateral institutions influence the strategic choices and actions of international managers? This paper addresses the question by exploring the impact of the World Trade Organization's (WTO) decision-making process on multinational enterprises (MNEs). We discuss the three phases of the WTO decision-making lifecycle - the formulation of trade rules, the implementation of those rules, and the enforcement of the rules – and propose a strategic adjustment framework for understanding how companies alter their strategies and structures in response to the WTO's rules and operations. We argue that the increased relevance of multilateral rules and enforcement mechanisms – embodied in the WTO - is an important influence on MNE strategies and structures because of the increasing embeddedness of the WTO in national levels of regulation. We illustrate this through examples taken from the pharmaceutical, textiles and sugar industries sectors that have witnessed substantial multilateral regulation.

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The entanglement of identity and personal attire in colonial settings is explored through consideration of a tattered set of clothes from late sixteenth-early seventeenth-century Ireland incorporating elements of Irish, English, and Scots fashion. Reconsideration of the clothing, recovered from a bog, provides a rare opportunity to explore the physical manifestations of processes of hybridity and mimesis, as well as the pragmatic accommodations of impoverishment and displacement in colonial settings. In addition to considering the role of material culture in colonial identity formation and negotiation, examination of what has become known as the Dungiven costume also speaks to the ongoing legacy of early modern colonial encounters, as the cultural associations of the garments, and by extension their past wearer(s), continue to be subjected to the politically charged nature of identity politics in contemporary Northern Ireland.

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ABSTRACT Methodological concerns surrounding the research of vulnerable consumers tend to focus on respondents’ welfare, that they are not harmed or further disadvantaged by the research process (Reinharz 1992; Finch 1984). Consequentially, researcher vulnerability has been largely neglected within the consumer research literature. This paper aims to identify the ways that research with vulnerable consumers can impact on consumer researchers. Reflecting on our doctoral research experiences with vulnerable consumers, namely low income families and consumers confined to the home due to disability, we identify areas where the physical and psychological vulnerability of the researcher was exposed and the resulting strategies employed.

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The films of Wes Anderson feature a peculiar attention to the representation of dwellings in relation to narrative development, filmic style and characters' identities. As is true of clothing, in Anderson's cinema homes with their architecture, furniture and objects strongly contribute to a nostalgic dislocation of the characters from contemporary time. Considering the house as the prime locus of identity and the core of the patriarchal family, the family home is often depicted by Anderson as the last physical trace left by the absent father; a utopian place that the characters aim to rebuild or to recall through its objectification. This paper aims to analyse the (re)construction of the family home in The Royal Tenenbaums, and will investigate its absence and surrogates in The Darjeeling Ltd.

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This paper describes a collaborative practice, between an architect (the author) and a textile designer; its outcomes and the critical theoretical and feminist contexts from which the practice evolved and to which it still responds. The practice advocates the interweaving of more than the yarns, material and cultures on which it is physically based, but also the intertwining of theory and technology as a means to advance architectural practice. This is done in response to Ahrentzen’s charge to feminist scholars and practitioners to ‘embrace not only the abstract conceptual nature of much postmodernist theorizing but also that derived from the serious “hanging out”, looking at, listening to, scrutinising and theorizing lived experiences of the everyday’, in this instance the everyday practice of combining concrete and textiles.

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The ability of millimetre wave and terahertz systems to penetrate clothing is well known. The fact that the transmission of clothing and the reflectivity of the body vary as a function of frequency is less so. Several instruments have now been developed to exploit this capability. The choice of operating frequency, however, has often been associated with the maturity and the cost of the enabling technology rather than a sound systems engineering approach. Top level user and systems requirements have been derived to inform the development of design concepts. Emerging micro and nano technology concepts have been reviewed and we have demonstrated how these can be evaluated against these requirements by simulation using OpenFx. Openfx is an open source suite of 3D tools for modeling, animation and visualization which has been modified for use at millimeter waves. © 2012 SPIE.

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The techniques and technologies currently being investigated to detect weapons and contraband concealed on persons under clothing are reviewed. The basic phenomenology of the atmosphere and materials that must be understood in order to realize such a system are discussed. The component issues and architectural designs needed to realize systems are outlined. Some conclusions with respect to further technology developments are presented.

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Passive equipments operating in the 30-300 GHZ (millimeter wave) band are compared to those in the 300 GHz-3 THz (submillimeter band). Equipments operating in the submillimeter band can measure distance and also spectral information and have been used to address new opportunities in security. Solid state spectral information is available in the submillimeter region making it possible to identify materials, whereas in millimeter region bulk optical properties determine the image contrast. The optical properties in the region from 30 GHz to 3 THz are discussed for some typical inorganic and organic solids. in the millimeter-wave region of the spectrum, obscurants such as poor weather, dust, and smoke can be penetrated and useful imagery generated for surveillance. in the 30 GHZ-3 THZ region dielectrics such as plastic and cloth are also transparent and the detection of contraband hidden under clothing is possible. A passive millimeter-wave imaging concept based on a folded Schmidt camera has been developed and applied to poor weather navigation and security. The optical design uses a rotating mirror and is folded using polarization techniques. The design is very well corrected over a wide field of view making it ideal for surveillance, and security. This produces a relatively compact imager which minimizes the receiver count.

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This article considers the Aran jumper as a cultural artefact from an anthropological perspective. As an internationally recognized symbol of Irishness that comes with its own myth of origin, the Aran jumper carries emotionally charged ideas about kinship and nativeness. Whether read as an ID document, family tree, representation of the landscape or reference to Christian or pre-Christian spirituality, the Aran jumper’s stitch patterns seem to invite interpretation. Emerging at a particular period in the relationship between Ireland and America, this garment and the story that accompanies it have been shaped by migration and tourism, but may be understood very differently on either side of the Atlantic. The resilience of the myth of a fisherman lost at sea, whose corpse is identifiable only by designs his relatives have stitched into his clothing, is explained in light of its resonance with diasporic narratives and transnational longings.

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- There is general agreement that the measurement of child poverty is based on both low income and deprivation.

- Adjusting incomes for different household types, measuring before or after housing costs, and the selection of deprivation items all have an impact on poverty rates.

- The consensual poverty method, which takes account of what the population considers to be basic necessities, is described. The study found a high level of agreement on the basic necessities for children.

- The study found that only a few children lacked very basic necessities such as three meals a day and adequate clothing, but a third of all children (150,000) were deprived of an annual holiday and 75,000 children are growing up in cold and damp homes.

- Overall, the study found that 24% or 106,000 children are living in low income households and are deprived of four or more items.

- The study found those who had a ‘high experience’ of the conflict were significantly more deprived than those with no conflict experience and that a fifth of all children are living with an adult/s who have ‘high experience’.

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On 10 October 2002, and on 24 September 2003, the German Federal Labour Court and the German Federal Constitutional Court each delivered a decision on the consequences of wearing a headscarf for employees. Both courts appeared to protect the individual rights of the woman in question. The Federal Labour Court invalidated the dismissal of a salesperson based on the wearing of a headscarf; the Federal Constitutional Court held that a school teacher must not be denied employment on grounds of wearing a headscarf. However, both courts also left some room for manoeuvre in favour of clothing policies or laicism principles which could be used to justify head-scarf bans. This note discussed the potential and drawback of these cases, especially as regards intersectional inequalities along the lines of gender, religion and ethnicity.

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We propose a novel bolt-on module capable of boosting the robustness of various single compact 2D gait representations. Gait recognition is negatively influenced by covariate factors including clothing and time which alter the natural gait appearance and motion. Contrary to traditional gait recognition, our bolt-on module remedies this by a dedicated covariate factor detection and removal procedure which we quantitatively and qualitatively evaluate. The fundamental concept of the bolt-on module is founded on exploiting the pixel-wise composition of covariate factors. Results demonstrate how our bolt-on module is a powerful component leading to significant improvements across gait representations and datasets yielding state-of-the-art results.