3 resultados para non-polluting formulations

em Biblioteca Digital da Produção Intelectual da Universidade de São Paulo


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A commercial casein hydrolysate was microencapsulated in liposomes produced with non-purified soy lecithin, cryoprotected with two different disaccharides and lyophilized. The encapsulation efficiency of casein hydrolysate ranged from 30 to 40%. The powders were analyzed by differential scanning calorimetry (DSC), scanning electron micrography (SEM), infrared spectroscopy (FTIR) and wide angle X-ray diffraction (WAXD). DSC data revealed the presence of an exothermal transition in empty lyophilized liposomes, which was ascribed to the presence of a quasicrystalline lamellar phase (intermediary characteristics between the L-beta and L-c phases). The addition of peptides to the liposomal system caused the disappearance of this exothermic phenomenon, as they were located in the polar headgroup portion of the bilayer, causing disorder and preventing the formation of the quasicrystalline phase. Infrared data indicated the presence of the peptides in the lyophilized formulations and showed that the cryoprotectants interacted effectively with the polar heads of phospholipids in the bilayer.

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Liposoluble vitamin C derivatives, such as tetra-isopalmitoyl ascorbic acid (IPAA), are often used in dermocosmetic products due to their higher stability than vitamin C free form as well as its proposed effects in skin; however, there are no studies analyzing IPAA stability or its in vivo effects when present in dermocosmetic formulations. Thus, this study aimed to evaluate chemical stability and pre-clinical and clinical efficacy of dermocosmetic formulations containing IPAA in skin hydration and microrelief. Chemical stability of the formulations added with 1% IPAA was evaluated by heat stress during 35 days by HPLC. For pre-clinical evaluation, experimental formulations were topically applied on hairless skin mice during 5 days and animal skins were analyzed by non-invasive biophysic techniques (water content of stratum corneum, TEWL, viscoelasticity, and microrelief) and by histopathological studies. For clinical efficacy tests, the formulations were topically applied to the forearm and face of human volunteers, and 3 h and 15 days after applications, the skins were evaluated by the same non-invasive techniques mentioned before. Results showed that formulations containing IPAA had medium stability and had pronounced moisturizing effects on stratum corneum and on viable epidermis. These formulations also improved skin microrelief especially in relation to skin smoothness and roughness. (C) 2012 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.

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Resumo:

A commercial casein hydrolysate was microencapsulated in liposomes produced with non-purified soy lecithin, cryoprotected with two different disaccharides and lyophilized. The encapsulation efficiency of casein hydrolysate ranged from 30 to 40%. The powders were analyzed by differential scanning calorimetry (DSC), scanning electron micrography (SEM), infrared spectroscopy (FTIR) and wide angle X-ray diffraction (WAXD). DSC data revealed the presence of an exothermal transition in empty lyophilized liposomes, which was ascribed to the presence of a quasicrystalline lamellar phase (intermediary characteristics between the Lβ and Lc phases). The addition of peptides to the liposomal system caused the disappearance of this exothermic phenomenon, as they were located in the polar headgroup portion of the bilayer, causing disorder and preventing the formation of the quasicrystalline phase. Infrared data indicated the presence of the peptides in the lyophilized formulations and showed that the cryoprotectants interacted effectively with the polar heads of phospholipids in the bilayer.