Efficacy of Cosmetic Formulations Containing Dispersion of Liposome with Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Alpha-Lipoic Acid and Kinetin

The present study aimed to evaluate the photoprotective effects of cosmetic formulations containing a dispersion of liposome with magnesium ascorbyl phosphate (MAP), alpha-lipoic acid (ALA) and kinetin, as well as their effects on the hydration and viscoelastic skin properties. The photoprotection was determined in vitro (antioxidant activity) and in vivo on UV-irradiated hairless mouse skin. The hydration effects were performed with the application of the formulations under study on the forearm of human volunteers and skin conditions were analyzed before and after a single application and daily applications during 4 weeks in terms of transepidermal water loss (TEWL), skin moisture and viscoelastic properties. The raw material under study possessed free-radical scavenging activity and the formulation with it protected hairless mouse skin barrier function against UV damage. After 4 weeks of application on human skin, the formulation under study enhanced stratum corneum skin moisture and also showed hydration effects in deeper layers of the skin. Thus, it can be concluded that the cosmetic formulation containing a dispersion of liposome with MAP, ALA and kinetin under study showed photoprotective effects in skin barrier function as well as pronounced hydration effects on human skin, which suggests that this dispersion has potential antiaging effects.

The Use of Nanotechnology in Cosmetic Formulations: The Influence of Vehicle in the Vitamin A Skin Penetration

Despite the efficacy of topical retinoic acid, skin reactions have limited its acceptance by patients. Other retinoids, like Retinyl Palmitate (RP), are considerably less irritating, but they are also less effective. In order to enhance the performance of retinoids, in this work RP has been added to cosmetic formulations such as nanoemulsions, which can provide better penetration of this active substance. Because the vehicle can directly influence the skin penetration and the effectiveness of RP, two skin care products containing 5000 UI RP have been developed and investigated, namely a nanoemulsifying system and a classic gel cream. In vitro penetration tests were conducted by using Franz diffusion cells and placing porcine ear skin and iso-propanol in the receptor compartment. The RP concentration in the skin layers was analyzed by high performance liquid chromatography, and a Zeta-Sizer system was employed for measurement of the the particle size distribution. The penetration tests revealed a large difference between the vehicles in terms of the RP concentrations in each skin layer. The classic gel cream furnished better RP penetration in both the stratum corneum and the epidermis without stratum corneum + dermis, as compared to the self-nanoemulsifying system. The two vehicles displayed the same particle size (between 100 and 200 nm). Better understanding of RP skin delivery using different vehicles has been acquired, and the importance of evaluating the efficacy of nanocosmetics. Results from the present study should also contribute to the assessment of commercial self-nanoemulsifying systems with potential application in the facile production of nanoemulsions.

Evaluation of sun protection factor of cosmetic formulations by a simple visual in vitro method mimicking the in vivo method

A new concept for in vitro visual evaluation of sun protection factor (SPF) of cosmetic formulations based on a supramolecular ultraviolet (UV) dosimeter was clearly demonstrated. The method closely parallels the method validated for in vivo evaluation and relies on the determination of the slightest perceptible bleaching of an iron-complex dye/nanocrystallinetitanium dioxide interface (UV dosimeter) in combination with an artificial skin substrate simulating the actual human skin in the presence and absence of a cosmetic formulation. The successful evaluation of SPF was ensured by the similarity of the erythema response of our dosimeter and human skin to UV light irradiation. A good linear correlation of in vitro and in vivo data up to SPF 40 confirmed the effectiveness of such a simple, cheap, and fast method. In short, here we unravel a convenient and accessible visual FPS evaluation method that can help improving the control on cosmetic products contributing to the reduction of skin cancer, one of the critical public health issues nowadays. (C) 2011 Wiley Periodicals, Inc. and the American Pharmacists Association J Pharm Sci 101:726732, 2012

Benefits of Combinations of Vitamin A, C and E Derivatives in the Stability of Cosmetic Formulations

Chemically stable ester derivatives of vitamins A, C and E have become a focus of interest for their role in the satisfactory results in skin aging treatments. Accordingly, the aim of this study was to evaluate the physical and chemical stability of a cosmetic formulation containing 1% retinyl palmitate, ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate and tocopheryl acetate, alone or in combination. In the studies of physical stability, a Brookfield rheometer was used to determine rheological behavior of formulations containing the vitamins. Chemical stability was determined by HPLC on a Shimadzu system with UV detection. Results showed that formulations had pseudoplastic behavior and that vitamins did not alter their apparent viscosity and thixotropy. In the chemical stability studies, first-order reaction equations were used for determinations of the shelf-life of vitamins derivatives considering a remaining concentration of 85%. Combined vitamins in a single formulation had a slightly lower degradation rate as compared to different preparations containing only one of the vitamins. Considering that many cosmetic formulations contain vitamin combinations it is suggested that the present study may contribute to the development of more stable formulations containing liposoluble vitamins.

Application of tetra-isopalmitoyl ascorbic acid in cosmetic formulations: Stability studies and in vivo efficacy

Liposoluble vitamin C derivatives, such as tetra-isopalmitoyl ascorbic acid (IPAA), are often used in dermocosmetic products due to their higher stability than vitamin C free form as well as its proposed effects in skin; however, there are no studies analyzing IPAA stability or its in vivo effects when present in dermocosmetic formulations. Thus, this study aimed to evaluate chemical stability and pre-clinical and clinical efficacy of dermocosmetic formulations containing IPAA in skin hydration and microrelief. Chemical stability of the formulations added with 1% IPAA was evaluated by heat stress during 35 days by HPLC. For pre-clinical evaluation, experimental formulations were topically applied on hairless skin mice during 5 days and animal skins were analyzed by non-invasive biophysic techniques (water content of stratum corneum, TEWL, viscoelasticity, and microrelief) and by histopathological studies. For clinical efficacy tests, the formulations were topically applied to the forearm and face of human volunteers, and 3 h and 15 days after applications, the skins were evaluated by the same non-invasive techniques mentioned before. Results showed that formulations containing IPAA had medium stability and had pronounced moisturizing effects on stratum corneum and on viable epidermis. These formulations also improved skin microrelief especially in relation to skin smoothness and roughness. (C) 2012 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.

Cosmetic Orbital Inferomedial Decompression: Quantifying the Risk of Diplopia Associated With Extraocular Muscle Dimensions

Purpose: To quantify the risk of new diplopia in inferomedial orbital decompression performed for cosmetic reasons. Methods: Retrospective analysis of 114 patients with Graves orbitopathy who underwent an inferomedial orbital decompression. No patient had diplopia in any of the gaze positions or optic neuropathy. A single coronal slice 9 mm posterior to the lateral orbital rim was employed to quantify the muscular index of the extraocular recti and of the superior complex. A control group of 56 patients imaged for other reasons were also measured. After surgery the oculomotor status of all patients who complained of diplopia and of 51 patients free of diplopia was measured with the prism and cover test in the primary and secondary gaze positions. Results: The rate of new-onset diplopia was 14.0% (16 patients). Eye deviations were confirmed in 14 patients. Of these, 10 had significant strabismus that warranted surgical or prism treatment. Most patients had esotropia associated with small vertical deviations. The size of the medial and inferior recti was significantly associated with the development of diplopia. The estimated odds for the appearance of diplopia in patients with muscle enlargement was 12.76 (medial rectus) and 5.21 (inferior rectus). Small-angle deviations were also detected in 27.4% of patients who did not experience diplopia. Conclusions: Medial and inferior recti enlargement is a strong predictor of new-onset diplopia. A large number of patients who do not report diplopia also present with small-angle deviations. (Ophthal Plast Reconstr Surg 2012;28:204-207)

Antioxidant, anti-acetylcholinesterase and cytotoxic activities of ethanol extracts of peel, pulp and seeds of exotic Brazilian fruits Antioxidant, anti-acetylcholinesterase and cytotoxic activities in fruits

Ethanol extracts of powdered genipap (Genipa americana L), umbu (Spondia tuberosa A.) and siriguela (Spondia purpurea L) prepared from separate pulp, seeds and peel were investigated for their (i) antioxidant capacity, which was evaluated by various known methods; (ii) acetylcholinesterase (AChE) inhibitory activity; and (iii) cytotoxic effect on corneal epithelial cells of sheep. The highest values of total phenolic content were obtained with peel and seed extracts. Siriguela and umbu (seeds and peel) extracts displayed the highest antioxidant activities. Lipid peroxidation assays using mimetic biomembranes and mouse liver homogenates indicated that genipap pulp is a promising antioxidant. The investigation of phenols and organic acid contents revealed the presence of quercetin, citric and quinic acids, chlorogenic acid derivatives, among others, in several extracts, with the highest amount found in siriguela seeds. Genipap pulp and siriguela seed ethanol extracts presented an AChE inhibition zone similar to that of the positive control, carbachol. AChE inhibition assay with chlorogenic acid, one of the main constituents of siriguela seeds, revealed that this acid showed activity similar to that of the control physostigmine. These data suggest that these extracts are potentially important antioxidant supplements for the everyday human diet, pharmaceutical and cosmetic industries. (C) 2012 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.

Photodynamic therapy in actinic cheilitis: clinical and anatomopathological evaluation of 19 patients

BACKGROUND: Actinic cheilitis, a common disease caused by chronic solar exposure and tobacco use, is considered a premalignant lesion with potential to develop into squamous cell carcinoma. Some of the available treatments are invasive, have unaesthetic results and require multiple sessions. OBJECTIVE: To assess the efficacy of a therapy and its cosmetic results. METHODS: In this uncontrolled clinical trial a single photodynamic therapy (PDT) session using 16% methyl-aminolevulinate was performed on actinic cheilitis of the lower lip. A standardized questionnaire was applied in order to assess the clinical improvement from the patients' point of view and the satisfaction with the treatment. Anatomopathological evaluation was performed before the treatment and two months afterwards. RESULTS: The sample was composed of 19 patients (10 males and 9 females), phototypes I to III, with average age of 62 years. Main adverse effects were: sudden pain, scabs, herpes flare-up, and edema. The average score of pain during the procedure was 5,8+2,9. At the final assessment the patients reported improvement of 80% and satisfaction of 85% (p<0.01). Anatomopathological analysis showed a significant decrease of dysplasia (p=0.03) in spite of its presence in 84% of cases. There was no significant correlation between the level of dysplasia with either the subjective impression of clinical improvement (p=0.82) or with the patients' final satisfaction (p=0.96). CONCLUSION: PDT is effective in the treatment of actinic cheilitis, but it is associated with a significant level of pain. Due to the persistence of dysplasia, more research needs to be done in order to define the ideal number of sessions for the effective treatment of these lesions.

Using the Condylar Prosthesis After Resection of a Large Odontogenic Myxoma Tumor in the Mandible

Odontogenic myxomas are considered to be a benign odontogenic tumor with locally aggressive behavior. Because these neoplasms are rare in the oral cavity, the possible surgical management can be quite variable. Literature recommendation can vary from simple curettage and peripheral ostectomy to segmental resection. The authors report a case of a 20-year-old patient with an odontogenic myxoma tumor located in the left mandibular angle, ascending ramus, and mandibular symphysis. It was treated by radical resection followed by titanium reconstruction with condylar prosthesis, which allowed rapid return of function with improvement in quality of life and restoration of cosmetic and functional deficits. The lesion did not recur after surgical procedure.

Babassu Nanoemulsions Have Physical and Chemical Stability

Babassu is considered one of the greatest native resources in the world and its oil is used in body and hair formulations. The aim of this study was to evaluate the short-term stability in oil-in-water (O/W) nanoemulsions containing babassu oil prepared by emulsification phase inversion submitted to the centrifugation, thermal stress, and heating/cooling cycle tests. The formulations showed no change compared to the droplet size, polydispersity index, pH, and electrical conductivity values after thermal stress and heating/cooling cycle tests. Based on these results, the nanoemulsions obtained can be considered as promising disperse systems for pharmaceutical and cosmetic applications.

The genetic structure and mating system of Acrocomia aculeata (Arecaceae)

Acrocomia aculeata is a perennial, fruit-producing palm tree, native to tropical forests. Its fruits have spurred interest because of their significant potential for use in the cosmetic industry and as feedstock for biofuel. In the present study, the genetic structure and mating system in Acrocomia aculeata were analyzed, using eight nuclear microsatellite loci and samples from Sao Paulo and Minas Gerais states, Brazil. By means of Bayesian analysis, these populations were clustered into two or three groups. A high multilocus outcrossing rate suggests that outcrosses were predominant, although a certain degree of biparental inbreeding also occurred. Thus, although monoecious and self-compatible, there is every indication that A. aculeata bears a mixed reproductive system, with a predominance of outcrossing. Given the genetic structure revealed hereby, future conservation strategies and germplasm collecting should be focussed on sampling and preserving individuals from different clusters.

Carotenoids and polyphenols in nutricosmetics, nutraceuticals, and cosmeceuticals

The market for cosmeceuticals continues with significant annual growth, but today consumers are more aware of nutritional products that contribute to both skin health and disease prevention. In the last 10 years, pharmacists, chemists, nutritionists, and physicians have been working together to develop new nutritional applications to satisfy peoples needs and demands. As a recent result of convergence phenomenon between cosmetics and food industries, nutricosmetics is a blurry area unfamiliar to many consumers and sometimes even to foods and cosmetics experts. Characterized by oral supplementation of nutrients, nutricosmetics are also known as beauty pills,beauty from within, and even oral cosmetics. The major claim is the antiaging effect, reducing wrinkles by fighting free radicals generated by solar radiation. Among the ingredients used in nutricosmetics, antioxidants represent the most crucial. The best-known antioxidants are carotenoids (beta-carotene, lycopene, lutein, zeaxanthin, and astaxanthin) and polyphenols (anthocyanidins, catechins, flavonoids, tannins, and procyanidins). This study presents an overview about the concept of nutricosmetics and gives us information about the difference between nutricosmetics, nutraceuticals, and cosmeceuticals. The article also discusses about carotenoids and polyphenols, two classes of ingredients often employed in such products.

ISOLATION AND CHARACTERISTICS OF EIGHT NOVEL POLYMORPHIC MICROSATELLITE LOCI IN LIPPIA ALBA (VERBENACEAE)

Premise of the study: A set of eight microsatellite (simple sequence repeat [SSR]) markers for Lippia alba, an important medicinal and cosmetic plant, was developed to aid studies of genetic diversity and to define efficient strategies for breeding programs. Methods and Results: Using a (CT)(8)- and (GT)(8)-enriched library, a total of 11 SSR loci were developed and optimized in L. alba. Of the 11 loci, eight were found to be polymorphic after screening 61 accessions from two populations. The parameters used to characterize loci were expected heterozygosity (H-e) and number of alleles. A total of 44 alleles were identified, with an average of 5.5 alleles per loci, which were moderately to highly informative according to H-e. Conclusions: These new SSR markers have potential for informing genetic diversity, allele mining, and mapping studies and will be used to generate information for breeding programs of L. alba

Immediate and long-term effects of polysaccharides-based formulations on human skin

A new trend in cosmetic formulations is the use of biotechnological raw materials as the polysaccharides from Klebsiella pneumoniae, which are supposed to enhance cell renewal, improve skin hydration and micro-relief. Botanical extracts of Myrtus communis leaves contain different sugars, which may provide the same benefits. Thus, the objective of this study was to evaluate through objective and subjective analysis the immediate and long-term effects of cosmetic formulations containing polysaccharides biotechnologically-originated and / or the ones contained in Myrtus communis extracts. Three polysaccharide-based and placebo formulations were applied on the forearm skin of 40 volunteers. Skin hydration, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), viscoelasticity and skin micro-relief measurements were made before and 2 hours after a single application and after 15 and 30 day-periods of daily applications. Answers to a questionnaire about perceptions of formulation cosmetic features constituted the subjective analysis. All polysaccharide-based formulations enhanced skin hydration. Formulations with isolated or combined active substances improved skin barrier function as compared to placebo, in the short and long term studies. Formulations containing Myrtus communis extracts had the highest acceptance. Results suggest that daily use of formulations containing these substances is important for protection of the skin barrier function.