Daily morphological changes determined by high-energy events on an embayed beach: a qualitative model

This paper examines the daily morphological responses of Sununga Beach, an embayed beach located on the south-eastern Brazilian coast, to storms in the South Atlantic Ocean. The main mechanisms and timing of beach erosion and accretion, the relationship between wave height and direction, and beach volume changes are considered, to establish a qualitative model for short-term embayed beach morphological changes. The methodology consisted of daily topographic surveys during the month of May in 2001, 2002, and 2003, using an RTK-GPS (real-time kinematics global positioning system). Weather and wave model results were used to correlate hydrodynamics and beach morphology. The results indicate that the morphodynamics of Sununga Beach are characterized by a process of beach rotation, which occurred more or less clearly during all three surveys. Unlike what has been commonly described in the literature for longer time intervals and alternations of fair and stormy weather, the beach rotation processes on Sununga Beach occurred under conditions of moderate-to-high wave energy change (wave heights greater than 2 m). An integrated evaluation of the behaviour of the meteorological aspects, together with beach morphology, enabled us to recognize that extra-tropical cyclones were the most important agent in remobilizing the beach planform, whether in beach rotation or in cross-shore erosion. Copyright (C) 2010 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.

Efeito do detalhamento dos ventos na modelagem de agitação marítima no oeste do Atlântico Sul

Neste trabalho foram feitas simulações numéricas de ondas de gravidade da superfície do mar, utilizando o modelo WAVEWATCH-III versão 1.18 sobre o Atlântico, com a finalidade de avaliar a importância do detalhamento dos ventos para diferentes estados de mar. O domínio escolhido foi delimitado pelos paralelos 18ºS e 45ºS, e pelos meridianos 035ºW e 070ºW, de modo que o centro do domínio ficasse sobre o litoral do RS. Para cada evento, foram inseridos ventos oriundos do modelo de mesoescala RAMS (grade de 0,34º x 0,284º e saída temporal a cada hora) e oriundos do modelo global do NCEP (grade de 2,5º x 2,5º e saída temporal a cada 6 horas), no intuito de verificar a influência das escalas na geração de ondas de superfície do mar. Notou-se que nos eventos extremos, as simulações superestimaram as alturas das ondas. Foi verificado também, que as integrações, alimentadas por dados da Reanálise do NCEP, foram as mais discrepantes dos valores observados in situ, se comparados com os valores resultantes da simulação com os ventos oriundos do modelo RAMS. O comportamento mais preciso dos casos RAMS evidenciou a importância dos fenômenos de mesoescala para a geração dos trens de ondas; ou seja, das ondas que se propagam em grupo. Na ocorrência de calmaria, as ondas foram subestimadas, sendo então levantadas duas linhas de ação: a primeira de ampliar o domínio escolhido, pois esse padrão parece estar associado a ondulações geradas em uma região ainda mais remota e a segunda, iniciar o WW3 com um campo de onda mais realístico.

Motion-based wave estimation: Small-scale tests with a crane-barge model

This paper provides additional validation to the problem of estimating wave spectra based on the first-order motions of a moored vessel. Prior investigations conducted by the authors have attested that even a large-volume ship, such as an FPSO unit, could be adopted for on-board estimation of the wave field. The obvious limitation of the methodology concerns filtering of high-frequency wave components, for which the vessel has no significant response. As a result, the estimation range is directly dependent on the characteristics of the vessel response. In order to extend this analysis, further small-scale tests were performed with a model of a pipe-laying crane-barge. When compared to the FPSO case, the results attest that a broader range of typical sea states can be accurately estimated, including crossed-sea states with low peak periods. (C) 2012 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.

BRAZILIAN OFFSHORE WAVE CLIMATE BASED ON NWW3 REANALYSIS

This paper provides a description of the wave climate off the Brazilian coast based on an eleven-year time series (Jan/1997-Dec/2007) obtained from the NWW3 operational model hindcast reanalysis. Information about wave climate in Brazilian waters is very scarce and mainly based on occasional short-term observations, the present analysis being the first covering such temporal and spatial scales. To define the wave climate, six sectors were defined and analyzed along the Brazilian shelf-break: South (W1), Southeast (W2), Central (W3), East (W4), Northeast (W5) and North (W6). W1, W2 and W3 wave regimes are determined by the South Atlantic High (SAH) and the passage of synoptic cold fronts; W4, W5 and W6 are controlled by the Intertropical Convergence Zone (ITCZ) and its meridional oscillation. The most energetic waves are from the S, generated by the strong winds associated to the passage of cold fronts, which mainly affect the southern region. Wave power presents a decrease in energy levels from south to north, with its annual variation showing that the winter months are the most energetic in W1 to W4, while in W5 and W6 the most energetic conditions occur during the austral summer. The information presented here provides boundary conditions for studies related to coastal processes, fundamental for a better understanding of the Brazilian coastal zone.

Height variability from the MIROC - IPCC model for the 20th century compared to that of the TOPEX/POSEIDON altimeter

Planetary waves are key to large-scale dynamical adjustment in the global ocean as they transfer energy from the east to the west side of oceanic basins; they connect the forcing in the ocean interior with the variability at its boundaries: and they change the local heat content, thus coupling oceanic, atmospheric, and biological processes. Planetary waves, mostly of the first baroclinic mode, are observed as distinctive patterns in global time series of sea surface height anomaly (SSHA) and heat storage. The goal of this study is to compare and validate large-scale SSHA signals from coupled ocean-atmosphere general circulation Model for Interdisciplinary Research on Climate (MIROC) with TOPEX/POSEIDON satellite altimeter observations. The last decade of the models` time series is selected for comparison with the altimeter data. The wave patterns are separated from the meso- and large-scale SSHA signals by digital filters calibrated to select the same spectral bands in both model and altimeter data. The band-wise comparison allows for an assessment of the model skill to simulate the dynamical components of the observed wave field. Comparisons regarding both the seasonal cycle and the Rossby wave Held differ significantly among basins. When carried within the same basin, differences can occur between equal latitudes in opposite hemispheres. Furthermore, at some latitudes the MIROC reproduces biannual, annual and semiannual planetary waves with phase speeds and average amplitudes similar to those observed by the altimeter, but with significant differences in phase. (C) 2008 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.

Skin Penetration Time-Profiles for Continuous 810nm and Superpulsed 904nm Lasers in a Rat Model

Objective: The purpose of this study was to investigate the rat skin penetration abilities of two commercially available low-level laser therapy (LLLT) devices during 150 sec of irradiation. Background data: Effective LLLT irradiation typically lasts from 20 sec up to a few minutes, but the LLLT time-profiles for skin penetration of light energy have not yet been investigated. Materials and methods: Sixty-two skin flaps overlaying rat's gastrocnemius muscles were harvested and immediately irradiated with LLLT devices. Irradiation was performed either with a 810 nm, 200mW continuous wave laser, or with a 904 nm, 60mW superpulsed laser, and the amount of penetrating light energy was measured by an optical power meter and registered at seven time points (range, 1-150 sec). Results: With the continuous wave 810nm laser probe in skin contact, the amount of penetrating light energy was stable at similar to 20% (SEM +/- 0.6) of the initial optical output during 150 sec irradiation. However, irradiation with the superpulsed 904 nm, 60mW laser showed a linear increase in penetrating energy from 38% (SEM +/- 1.4) to 58% (SEM +/- 3.5) during 150 sec of exposure. The skin penetration abilities were significantly different (p < 0.01) between the two lasers at all measured time points. Conclusions: LLLT irradiation through rat skin leaves sufficient subdermal light energy to influence pathological processes and tissue repair. The finding that superpulsed 904nm LLLT light energy penetrates 2-3 easier through the rat skin barrier than 810nm continuous wave LLLT, corresponds well with results of LLLT dose analyses in systematic reviews of LLLT in musculoskeletal disorders. This may explain why the differentiation between these laser types has been needed in the clinical dosage recommendations of World Association for Laser Therapy.

SYNCHRONIZATION OF CHAOS AND THE TRANSITION TO WAVE TURBULENCE

We investigated the transition to wave turbulence in a spatially extended three-wave interacting model, where a spatially homogeneous state undergoing chaotic dynamics undergoes spatial mode excitation. The transition to this weakly turbulent state can be regarded as the loss of synchronization of chaos of mode oscillators describing the spatial dynamics.

Statistical physics approach to dendritic computation: The excitable-wave mean-field approximation

We analytically study the input-output properties of a neuron whose active dendritic tree, modeled as a Cayley tree of excitable elements, is subjected to Poisson stimulus. Both single-site and two-site mean-field approximations incorrectly predict a nonequilibrium phase transition which is not allowed in the model. We propose an excitable-wave mean-field approximation which shows good agreement with previously published simulation results [Gollo et al., PLoS Comput. Biol. 5, e1000402 (2009)] and accounts for finite-size effects. We also discuss the relevance of our results to experiments in neuroscience, emphasizing the role of active dendrites in the enhancement of dynamic range and in gain control modulation.