The life-cycle of the fashion garment and the role of Australian mass market designers

This paper uses the lens of life-cycle thinking to discuss recent developments in the Australian mass market fashion industry, and to explore the opportunities and barriers to implementing lifecycle thinking within mass market design processes. Life-cycle analysis is a quantitative tool used to assess the environmental impact of a material or product. However the underlying thinking of life-cycle analysis can also be employed more generally, enabling a designer to assess their processes and design decisions for sustainability. A fashion designer employing life cycle thinking would consider every stage in the life of a garment from fibre and textiles through to consumer use, to eventual disposal and beyond disposal to reuse and later disassembly for fibre recycling. Although life-cycle thinking is rarely considered in the design processes of the fast-paced, price-driven mass market, this paper explores its potential and suggests ways in which it could be implemented.

Frantic fashion and Australia’s invisible designers : conversations on sustainability in the mass market

The majority of Australians will work, sleep and die in the garments of the mass market. Yet, as Ian Griffiths has termed it, the designers of these garments are ‘invisible’ (2000). To the general public, the values, opinions and individual design processes of these designers are as unknown as their names. However, the designer’s role is crucial in making decisions which will have impacts throughout the life of the garment. The high product volume within the mass market ensures that even a small decision in the design process to source a particular fabric, or to use a certain trim or textile finish, can have a profound environmental or social effect. While big companies in Australia have implemented some visible strategies for sustainability, it is uncertain how these may have flowed through to design practices. To explore this question, this presentation will discuss preliminary findings from in-depth semi-structured interviews with Australian mass market fashion designers and product developers. The aim of the interviews was to hear the voice of the insider – to listen to mass market designers describe their design process, discuss the Australian fashion industry and its future challenges and opportunities, and to comment on what a ‘sustainability’ for their industry could look like. These interviews will be discussed within the framework of design philosopher Tony Fry’s writing on design redirection for sustainability.

The knock-on from the knock-off : recent shifts within Australian mass market fashion design practice

Australia’s mass market fashion labels have traditionally benefitted from their peripheral location to the world’s fashion centres. Operating a season behind, Australian mass market designers and buyers were well-placed to watch trends play out overseas before testing them in the Australian marketplace. For this reason, often a designer’s role was to source and oversee the manufacture of ‘knock-offs’, or close copies of Northern hemisphere mass market garments. Both Weller (2007) and Walsh (2009) have commented on this practice. The knock-on effect from this continues to be a cautious, derivative fashion sensibility within Australian mass market fashion design, where any new trend or product is first tested and proved overseas months earlier. However, there is evidence that this is changing. The rapid online dissemination of global fashion trends, coupled with the Australian consumer’s willingness to shop online, has meant that the ‘knock-off’ is less viable. For this reason, a number of mass market companies are moving away from the practice of direct sourcing and are developing product in-house under a Northern hemisphere model. This shift is also witnessed in the trend for mass market companies to develop collections in partnership with independent Australian designers. This paper explores the current and potential effects of these shifts within Australian mass market design practice, and discusses how they may impact on designers, consumers and on the wider culture of Australian fashion.

The lifecycle of the fashion garment : voices of mass market designers

For the Australian fashion industry to move towards a more socially and environmentally ethical industry, change to existing processes would need to occur in all market levels. Change is particularly needed in the mass market, where larger volumes inevitably lead to greater environmental impact. Recent trends in eco fashion have waxed and waned, with only minor impact on the methodology of the mass market design process, with greenwashing and confusion of concepts being common problems. In the mass market, the product lifecycle begins in the design room and ends on the retail floor. A design process for sustainability necessarily expands this lifecycle, assessing the impact of every stage in the life of a fashion garment from the fibre and textiles through to consumer use, to eventual disposal and beyond disposal to fibre recycling and reuse or resale. However, how easy is it for designers to consider a wider view of the product lifecycle in their design process? How much autonomy do they have over their design process, and where do they believe their responsibility begins and ends for the garments they design? This paper will present some preliminary findings from interviews with designers in the Australian women’s wear mass market, revealing their concerns and views on the challenges of a sustainability for their industry.

Environmental Awareness in Game Agents

Agents make up an important part of game worlds, ranging from the characters and monsters that live in the world to the armies the player controls. Despite their importance, agents in current games rarely display an awareness of their environment or react appropriately, which severely detracts from the believability of the game. Most games use agents that have a basic awareness of the player and other agents, but are still unaware of important game events or environmental conditions. This article describes an agent design that combines cellular automata for environmental modeling with influence maps for agent decision-making. The result is simple, flexible game agents that are able to respond to dynamic changes to the environment (e.g., rain or fire) while pursuing a goal.

Using incomplete online metric maps for topological exploration with the Gap Navigation Tree

This paper presents a general, global approach to the problem of robot exploration, utilizing a topological data structure to guide an underlying Simultaneous Localization and Mapping (SLAM) process. A Gap Navigation Tree (GNT) is used to motivate global target selection and occluded regions of the environment (called “gaps”) are tracked probabilistically. The process of map construction and the motion of the vehicle alters both the shape and location of these regions. The use of online mapping is shown to reduce the difficulties in implementing the GNT.

Individuals in a mass market environment: Australian bequest donors seek better communication from charities

Swelling social need and competing calls on government funds have heightened the philanthropic dollar’s value. Yet, Australia is not regarded as having a robust giving culture: while 86% of adults give, a mere 16% plan their giving with those who do donating four times as much as spontaneous givers (Giving Australia, 2005). Traditionally, the prime planned giving example is a charitable bequest, a revenue stream not prevalent here (Baker, 2007). In fact, Baker’s Victorian probate data shows under 5% of estates provide a charitable bequest and just over 1% of estate assets is bequeathed. The UK, in contrast, sources 30% and the US 10% of charitable income through bequests (NCVO, 2004; Sargeant, Wymer and Hilton,2006). Australian charities could boost bequest giving. Understanding the donor market, which has or may remember them in their will is critical. This paper reports donor perceptions of Australian charities’ bequest communication/ marketing. The data forms part of a wider study of Australian donors’ bequest attitudes and behaviour. Charities spend heavily on bequest promotion, from advertising to personal selling to public relations and promotion. Infrastructure funds are scarce so guidance on what works for donors is important. Guy and Patton (1988) made their classic call for a nonprofit marketing perspective and identify the need for charities to better understand the motivations and behaviour of their supporters. In similar vein, this study aims to improve the way nonprofits and givers interact; and ultimately, enhance the giving experience and thus multiply planned giving participation. Academically, it offers insights to Australian bequest motivations and attitudes not studied empirically before.

A comparative study of the number and mass of fine particles emitted with diesel fuel and marine gas oil (MGO)

The current investigation reports on diesel particulate matter emissions, with special interest in fine particles from the combustion of two base fuels. The base fuels selected were diesel fuel and marine gas oil (MGO). The experiments were conducted with a four-stroke, six-cylinder, direct injection diesel engine. The results showed that the fine particle number emissions measured by both SMPS and ELPI were higher with MGO compared to diesel fuel. It was observed that the fine particle number emissions with the two base fuels were quantitatively different but qualitatively similar. The gravimetric (mass basis) measurement also showed higher total particulate matter (TPM) emissions with the MGO. The smoke emissions, which were part of TPM, were also higher for the MGO. No significant changes in the mass flow rate of fuel and the brake-specific fuel consumption (BSFC) were observed between the two base fuels.

New maps of learning for quality art education : what pre-service teachers should learn and be able to do

It would be a rare thing to visit an early years setting or classroom in Australia that does not display examples of young children’s artworks. This practice serves to give schools a particular ‘look’, but is no guarantee of quality art education. The Australian National Review of Visual Arts Education (NRVE) (2009) has called for changes to visual art education in schools. The planned new National Curriculum includes the arts (music, dance, drama, media and visual arts) as one of the five learning areas. Research shows that it is the classroom teacher that makes the difference, and teacher education has a large part to play in reforms to art education. This paper provides an account of one foundation unit of study (Unit 1) for first year university students enrolled in a 4-year Bachelor degree program who are preparing to teach in the early years (0–8 years). To prepare pre-service teachers to meet the needs of children in the 21st century, Unit 1 blends old and new ways of seeing art, child and pedagogy. Claims for the effectiveness of this model are supported with evidence-based research, conducted over the six years of iterations and ongoing development of Unit 1.

Evolutionary biology : mass survivals

The conclusion that the primary divergences of the modern groups of mammals occurred in the mid-Cretaceous requires fresh thinking about this facet of evolutionary history — especially in ecological terms.

Double diffusive magneto-convection fluid flow in a strong cross magnetic field with uniform surface heat and mass flux

In this study, magnetohydrodynamic natural convection boundary layer flow of an electrically conducting and viscous incompressible fluid along a heated vertical flat plate with uniform heat and mass flux in the presence of strong cross magnetic field has been investigated. For smooth integrations the boundary layer equations are transformed in to a convenient dimensionless form by using stream function formulation as well as the free variable formulation. The nonsimilar parabolic partial differential equations are integrated numerically for Pr ≪1 that is appropriate for liquid metals against the local Hartmann parameter ξ . Further, asymptotic solutions are obtained near the leading edge using regular perturbation method for smaller values of ξ . Solutions for values of ξ ≫ 1 are also obtained by employing the matched asymptotic technique. The results obtained for small, large and all ξ regimes are examined in terms of shear stress, τw, rate of heat transfer, qw, and rate of mass transfer, mw, for important physical parameter. Attention has been given to the influence of Schmidt number, Sc, buoyancy ratio parameter, N and local Hartmann parameter, ξ on velocity, temperature and concentration distributions and noted that velocity and temperature of the fluid achieve their asymptotic profiles for Sc ≥ 10:0.

Mothers' sleep and driving in the postpartum period

Introduction: Previous studies investigating mothers’ sleep in the postpartum period commonly demonstrated elevated levels of sleepiness in this population. A Karolinska Sleepiness Scale (KSS) rating of 5 or above is associated with an exponential increase in vehicle crash risk. To date, no studies have investigated the relationship between mothers’ sleep in the postpartum period and their driving behaviour. Methods: Sleep-wake diary data was collected from 14 mother-infant dyads during two 7-day assessment periods when the infants were 6 and 12 weeks old. The mothers’ indicated all driving episodes during these weeks and their respective sleepiness level using the KSS. Semi-structured interviews were conducted with the mothers when their infant was 12 weeks old. Results: The infants slept significantly more than their mothers at 6 weeks and 12 weeks of age. During both time points, mothers and infants had a similar number of night awakenings (waking between 22:00 and 06:00), with some mothers experiencing greater than 19 awakenings over 7 nights. Notably, 36% of the mothers did not experience a continuous sleep period longer than 4.5 hours when their infant was 6 weeks old. A total of 141 driving episodes were reported during the 7 day assessment period when the infants were 6 weeks old. Over 50% of the driving episodes were denoted with a KSS score of 5 or above. Strategies mothers cited they employed during this period included only driving when feeling alert, postponing driving until another person is present, and driving in the morning when less sleepy. Conclusion: Mothers are experiencing disrupted sleep at night and some mothers do not obtain more than 4.5 hours of continuous sleep during the early postpartum weeks. In this sample, some mothers reported self-regulating driving behaviour, however over half of the driving episodes were undertaken with a sleepiness rating linked with elevated crash risk.

A mass spectrometric assay for the quantification of neuropeptide PYY in plasma

A multiple reaction monitoring mass spectrometric assay for the quantification of PYY in human plasma has been developed. A two stage sample preparation protocol was employed in which plasma containing the full length neuropeptide was first digested using trypsin, followed by solid-phase extraction to extract the digested peptide from the complex plasma matrix. The peptide extracts were analysed by LC-MS using multiple reaction monitoring to detect and quantify PYY. The method has been validated for plasma samples, yielding linear responses over the range 5–1,000 ng mL−1. The method is rapid, robust and specific for plasma PYY detection.

Comparison of the binding stoichiometries of positively charged DNA-binding drugs using positive and negative ion electrospray ionization mass spectrometry

Positive and negative ion electrospray ionization (ESI) mass spectra of complexes of positively charged small molecules (distamycin, Hoechst 33258, [Ru(phen)2dpq]Cl2 and [Ru(phen)2dpqC]Cl2) have been compared. [Ru(phen)2dpq]Cl2 and [Ru(phen)2dpqC]Cl2 bind to DNA by intercalation. Negative ion ESI mass spectra of mixtures of [Ru(phen)2dpq]Cl2 or [Ru(phen)2dpqC]Cl2 with DNA showed ions from DNA-ligand complexes consistent with solution studies. In contrast, only ions from freeDNAwere present in positive ion ESI mass spectra of mixtures of [Ru(phen)2dpq]Cl2 or [Ru(phen)2dpqC]Cl2 with DNA, highlighting the need for obtaining ESI mass spectra of non-covalent complexes under a range of experimental conditions. Negative ion spectra of mixtures of the minor groove binder Hoechst 33258 with DNA containing a known minor groove binding sequence were dominated by ions from a 1:1 complex. In contrast, in positive ion spectra there were also ions present from a 2:1 (Hoechst 33258: DNA) complex, suggesting an alternative binding mode was possible either in solution or in the gas phase. When Hoechst 33258 was mixed with a DNA sequence lacking a high affinity minor groove binding site, the negative ion ESI mass spectra showed that 1:1 and 2:1 complexes were formed, consistent with existence of binding modes other than minor groove binding. The data presented suggest that comparison of positive and negative ion ESI-MS spectra might provide an insight into various binding modes in both solution and the gas phase.