Chinese fashion designers in Shanghai : a new perspective

Shanghai possesses an apt legacy, once referred to as “Paris of the East”. Municipal aspirations for Shanghai to assume a position among the great fashion cities of the world have been integrated in the recent re-shaping of this modern city into a role model for Chinese creative enterprise yet China is still known primarily as centre of clothing production. Increasingly however, “Made in China” is being replaced by “Created in China” drawing attention to two distinct consumer markets for Chinese designers. Fashion designers who have entered the global fashion system for education or by showing their collections have generally adopted a design aesthetic that aligns with Western markets, allowing little competitive advantage. In contrast, Chinese designers who rest their attention on the domestic Chinese market find a disparate, highly competitive marketplace. The pillars of authenticity that for foreign fashion brands extend far into their cultural and creative histories, often for many decades in the case of Louis Vuitton, Hermes and Christian Dior do not yet exist in China in this era of rapid globalisation. Here, the cultural bedrock allows these same pillars to extend only thirty years or so into the past reaching the moments when Deng Xiaoping granted China’s creative entrepreneurs passage. To this end, interviews with fashion designers in Shanghai have been undertaken during the last twelve months for a PhD dissertation. Production of culture theory has been used to identify working methods, practices of production and the social and cultural milieu necessary for designers to achieve viability. Preliminary findings indicate that some fashion designers have adopted an as-yet unexplored strategy of business and brand development with a distinct Chinese aesthetic at its core, in contrast to the clichéd cultural iconography often viewed by Western viewers as representative of Chinese creativity.

Skin cancer prevention and fashion – frontier bedfellows

Problem Queensland has the highest rates of skin cancer in the world, even after wide-ranging public programs promoting sun safety awareness. To-date, public awareness campaigns on the dangers of excessive sun exposure have been highly successful. For adolescents, however, where a significant amount of lifetime sun exposure occurs, perilous exposure still ensues, despite awareness of the risks. New frontier approaches are required to target this key audience cluster, for this significant national problem. Approach For the majority of adolescents, being part of a collective norm defines their visual, attitudinal and behavioural actions and fashion has been validated as one of the most powerful forces that can form, shape and bolster these norms. Considering clothing is the easiest method to limit the amount of skin exposed to UV, fashion (in its many subtle, yet influential guises) is proposed as an avenue to advance positive sun safe practices for adolescents. Through an action-led methodology, this research explores the potential of fashion, as one of the key parts of a complex equation, to be a prime driver to facilitate sun safety for adolescents. Findings This paper advocates that fashion, as distinguishable from clothing, has the potential to positively influence sun protective behaviour. The findings go further and recommend the use of fashion as a stealth driver for sun safety advancement, for adolescents in particular, via shifts in norms of beauty and targeted generational communication strategies. This frontier approach has the potential to significantly reduce risky sun exposure in adolescence.

Re-think, Re-generate, Re-envisage fashionable sun-safe apparel

Design is a way of thinking and working that systematically can create immense societal change. In particular, fashion design is one of the most progressively forward-looking creative and commercial generators that can envisage and initiate meaningful visual and social transformation. If we look back in time at the authority of fashion, many trends have significantly induced visual norms aligning glamour and health with tanned skin - numerous examples exist, including Vogue magazine proclaiming (front-cover) that ‘The 1929 girl must be tanned’. Indeed, in a contemporary landscape, fashion trends continue to re-generate apparel that, in-the-main, has limited design resolution connected to sun safety, and surprisingly many designers elect to ignore this vital and potentially lucrative market segment. In a context with soaring skin cancer rates, how can this powerful design medium of fashion make a positive difference to sun protection; what is the untapped potential for young design talent to connect with the health sector for skin cancer prevention; and, how can fashion designers be swayed to design and produce fashionable sun-safe apparel, that address pertinent issues including heat build up, comfort and transformability? Through a case study approach, examining emergent fashion designers, this paper will propose that astute and novel avenues exist for fashion to re-think sun protective apparel, including: generation of crucial design standards for sun-safe apparel, exploration of co-branding opportunities, advancement of fashion forecasting to connect modesty of body coverage to fashion trends and alignment of the market segment to re-envisage a critical mass for fashionable sun-safe apparel.

Design of a tangible data visualization

In this paper we describe the design of DNA Jewellery, which is a wearable tangible data representation of personal DNA profile data. An iterative design process was followed to develop a 3D form-language that could be mapped to standard DNA profile data, with the aim of retaining readability of data while also producing an aesthetically pleasing and unique result in the area of personalized design. The work explores design issues with the production of data tangibles, contributes to a growing body of research exploring tangible representations of data and highlights the importance of approaches that move between technology, art and design.

Silk purse, sow’s ear : transforming second-Hand clothing into luxury fashion through craft practice

There is more apparel being created than ever before in history. The unsustainable production of materials and the clothing and textile waste that contributes annually to landfill, an estimated 500 000 tonnes of clothing per year in the UK (Gray, 2012) are significant issues inspiring the practice of Australian fashion designers, Carla van Lunn and Carla Binotto. While the contemporary fashion industry is built upon a production and consumption model that is younger than the industrial revolution, the traditions of costume, craft, and bodily adornment are ancient practices. Binotto and van Lunn believe that the potential for sustainable fashion practice lies outside the current industrial manufacturing model. This case study will discuss their fashion label, Maison Briz Vegas, and examine how recycling and traditional craft practices can be used to address the problem of clothing waste and offer an alternative idea of value in fashion and materials, addressing the indicative conference theme, Craft as Sustainability Activism in Practice. “Maison Briz Vegas”, a play on the notion of French luxury and the designers’ new world and sub-tropical home town, Brisbane, is an experimental and craft-based fashion label that uses second-hand cotton T-shirts and wool sweaters as primary materials to create designer fashion. The first collection, titled “The Wasteland”, was conceived and created in Paris in 2011, where designer Carla van Lunn had been living and working for several years. The collection was inspired by the precariousness of the global economy and concerns about climate change. The mountains of discarded clothing found at flea markets provided a textile resource from which van Lunn created a recycled hand-crafted fashion collection with an activist message and was shown to buyers and press during Paris Fashion Week. The label has since become a collaboration with fellow Australian designer Carla Binotto. The craft processes employed in Maison Briz Vegas’ up-cycled fashion collections include original hand block-printing, hand embroidery, quilting and patchwork. Taking an artisanal and slow approach, the designers work to create a hand touched imperfect style in a fashion market flooded with digital printing and fast mass-produced garments. The recycling extends to garment fastenings and embellishments, with discarded jar lids and bottle tops being used as buttons and within embroidery. This process transforms the material and aesthetic value of cheap and generic second-hand clothing and household waste. Maison Briz Vegas demonstrates the potential for craft and design to be an interface for environmental activism within the world of fashion. Presenting garments that are both high-design and thoughtfully recycled in a significant fashion context, such as Paris Fashion Week, Maison Briz Vegas has been able to engage a high-profile luxury fashion audience which has not traditionally considered sustainable or eco practices as relevant or desirable in themselves. The designers are studying how to apply their production model on a greater scale in order to fill commercial orders and reach a wider audience whilst maintaining the element of bespoke, limited edition, and slow hand-craft within their work.

Refining a teaching pattern: Reflection around artefacts

This book is about understanding the nature and application of reflection in higher education. It provides a theoretical model to guide the implementation of reflective learning and reflective practice across multiple disciplines and international contexts in higher education. The book presents research into the ways in which reflection is both considered and implemented in different ways across different professional disciplines, while maintaining a common purpose to transform and improve learning and/or practice. Chapter 13 'Refining a Teaching Pattern: Reflection Around Artefacts' explores reflective practices of an artefact, in this case fashion design garment samples.

Second skin : fashion design education to enhance sun safety awareness toolkit

A toolkit designed to facilitate greater understanding of the role of fashion design in society and the value of design thinking skills in solving wicked challenges. The program uses fashion as a catalyst to provide a framework for young people to address a systemic health issue (skin cancer), and in doing so, obtain a more acute awareness of the sun safety message (alternative to a scare campaign.

The story of the men’s white shirt

The classic white dress shirt is familiar and omnipresent in men’s fashion. As a result, we tend to be unaware that for more than 200 years this singular item of apparel, which is essentially unadulterated in form from the late 19th century, has been able to define and represent status, wealth and fashion norms. The history underlying this garment is rich and, in the main part, untold.

Warm

Warm was series of collaborative fashion designs workshops delivered as part of the International Kids Carnival hosted by the Venice Biennale Feb 11th - Feb 21st 2012. The workshops were based in the broad research domain of Design for Sustainability and involved an up-cycling process whereby school -aged children how to transform t-shirts into scarves and hats. Workshop participants learnt about the social and ethical imperative to re-cycle, the ways in which garments can be transformed and consequently re-valued, and how form, colour and proportion play a role in the design process. The workshops involved the development of highly visual models, images and translations.

Making strange

Marking Strange is a series of collaborative experimental creative works undertaken by Marissa Lindquist and Andrzej Pytel which explores the relationship between the body, new materiality and its application within different facets of design production. The ongoing experimental practice looks toward both organic and inorganic materials as a means of informing scholarly research, material development for commercial, installation and speculative design production and for academic studio programs. The work draws from theoretical positions such as Heidegger’s "nearness and revealing" (1927-1954), Simondon’s "transduction theory" (1989) and Burke's "sublime" (1757). Making Strange work has been exhibited within the Australian Pavilion Catalogue, FORMATIONS: New Practices in Australian Architecture, directed by Gerard Reinmuth and Anthony Burke with TOKO Concept Design, for the Venice International Architecture Biennale, 2012.

After Darkly Catwalk Design, QUT Fashion Graduate Showcase 2013

QUT Fashion collaborated with QUT Interior Design to design the Catwalk for the After Darkly Graduate Fashion Show 2013. The ephemeral work (catwalk canopy) was developed through a collaboration between the authors based upon an undergraduate interior design unit 'Filmic Interiors'. The unit exploited the potential of film to influence, understand, and develop novel interior spaces – particularly through consideration of mise en scene, cinematic effects and atmospheric design strategies engaged by key film directors. The design outcome represented a hybridisation of student design proposals, contemplating both film and emerging fashion collections from QUT fashion graduate class of 2013. The creative work built upon material experimentation research explored by the designers either through prior QUT interior design units ('Strange Spaces') or through previous practice ‘Making Strange’(1). The work explored a number of iterations each testing material qualities and associated immaterial cinematic affects. The final catwalk proposed a unique design, which posited the spectators centrally within the space, encircled by a hand formed flexible material canopy used as an entrance for the fashion collections. The proposal exploited the malleable yet tensile character of the canopy to inform a temporary installation, intensified further through a varied program of sceno-graphic lighting. (1) Lindquist, M. & Pytel, A. (2013)

Spinning a sustainable yarn : environmental sustainability and brand story in the Australian fashion industry

In the Australian fashion industry, few fashion brands have intervened in the design of their products or the systems around their product to tackle environmental pollution and waste. Instead, support of charities (whether social or environmental) has become conflated with sustainability in the eyes of the public. Thus it is difficult to assess with any accuracy fashion brands’ response to sustainability. This article aims to address this through proposing a categorization system to structure the various interventions that a company may make. This system is applied to two case studies, analysing campaigns that respond to environmental sustainability by two established Australian brands, Country Road and Billabong. The case studies demonstrate how the interventions employed by a company, at least in the Australian context, are carefully developed to align with their brand story, revealing the interplay between the intangible aspects of a brand’s positioning and the tangible, measurable impacts of their garments.

Wearable technology: The next frontier?

The ways in which technology mediates daily activities is shifting rapidly. Global trends point toward the uptake of ambient and interactive media to create radical new ways of working, interacting and socialising. Tech giants such as Google and Apple are banking on the success of this emerging market by investing in new future focused consumer products such as Google Glass and the Apple Watch. The potential implications of ubiquitous technological interactions via tangible and ambient media have never been more real or more accessible.

The story of … the military jacket

Fashion and war don’t seem an obvious pairing, but the military jacket is a fashion staple. It may take the form of a double-breasted dress uniform with brass buttons and epaulettes, trimmed in rock star braid, or it may be a khaki combat jacket, worn with Doc Martens and a scowl. Here I explore how these two forms of the military jacket were frogmarched into fashion...

Remember or Revive: Alice Payne and the Gold Coast and Hinterland Historical Society

In this creative practice work, designer Alice Payne examines the history of twentieth century Queensland fashion icon Paula Stafford, and interprets her story into an illustrated narrative and textile print. Paula Stafford was a swimwear designer operating in the Gold Coast, Queensland Australia 1940s to 1980s, and is credited with bringing the bikini to Australia. This project was commissioned by The Fashion Archives as part of their series Remember or Revive, in which the curators partnered designers with museums to reinterpret historical costume for a contemporary fashion audience. To develop the project, Payne visited The Gold Coast and Hinterland Historical Society to view Paula Stafford’s swimwear, resortwear, photographs, newspaper articles, fabric swatches and other artefacts relating to Stafford’s practice. Through examining Stafford’s work and history, Payne developed a series of designs based on the story and the experience of viewing and handling the garments. Research statement Fashion history is often experienced via static museum displays of garments and photographs from the period, and this research examines other means through which the archive and the fashion museum collection may be reinterpreted and made fresh. It does this in two ways: first, the work interprets a story from fashion history for a contemporary audience. Second, the project illuminates the fashion design process by demonstrating how garments from the past may be reinterpreted to inspire contemporary textile prints. The Paula Stafford collection at The Gold Coast and Hinterland Historical Society has a number of garments and photographs on display, however these only show a partial picture of the richness of Stafford’s work and legacy. Undertaking a practice-led methodology, in the course of developing the work, Payne examined the archive in order to interpret Stafford’s contribution to Queensland fashion through photography, narrative, and illustration. The work contributes to research into historical fashion curation and interpretation. The work appeared in Issue 11, March 2014 of the The Fashion Archives, an online publication by fashion curators Nadia Buick and Madeline King. The Fashion Archives has received funding from Arts Queensland, State Library Queensland and Creative Partnerships Australia and has published over 200 articles and projects related to Queensland Style. The Fashion Archives is the first project to examine in depth Queensland fashion history. As Paula Stafford is one of Queensland’s most iconic designers, this project is significant in being the first to examine her legacy through creative practice. The Fashion Archives was established in 2013 and involvement is by invitation from the curators.