The knock-on from the knock-off : recent shifts within Australian mass market fashion design practice

Australia’s mass market fashion labels have traditionally benefitted from their peripheral location to the world’s fashion centres. Operating a season behind, Australian mass market designers and buyers were well-placed to watch trends play out overseas before testing them in the Australian marketplace. For this reason, often a designer’s role was to source and oversee the manufacture of ‘knock-offs’, or close copies of Northern hemisphere mass market garments. Both Weller (2007) and Walsh (2009) have commented on this practice. The knock-on effect from this continues to be a cautious, derivative fashion sensibility within Australian mass market fashion design, where any new trend or product is first tested and proved overseas months earlier. However, there is evidence that this is changing. The rapid online dissemination of global fashion trends, coupled with the Australian consumer’s willingness to shop online, has meant that the ‘knock-off’ is less viable. For this reason, a number of mass market companies are moving away from the practice of direct sourcing and are developing product in-house under a Northern hemisphere model. This shift is also witnessed in the trend for mass market companies to develop collections in partnership with independent Australian designers. This paper explores the current and potential effects of these shifts within Australian mass market design practice, and discusses how they may impact on designers, consumers and on the wider culture of Australian fashion.

goDesign travelling design workshop program for regional secondary students

goDesign Travelling Workshop Program for Regional Secondary Students was an initiative of Queensland University of Technology (QUT) and the Design Institute of Australia (DIA) Queensland Branch, which aligned with the DIA unleashed: Queensland design on tour 2010 Exhibition. It was designed be delivered by university design academics in state secondary schools in Chinchilla, Mt Isa, Quilpie, Emerald, Gladstone and Bundaberg between February and September 2010, to approximately 95 secondary students and 24 teachers from the subject areas of visual art, graphics and industrial technology and design. A talk by a visiting design practitioner whose work was displayed in the exhibition, also features in the final day of the program in each town, and student work from the workshop was displayed in the exhibition alongside the professional design work. The three-day workshop is a design immersion program for regional Queensland Secondary Schools, which responds to specific actions outlined in the Queensland Government Design Strategy 2020 to ‘Build Design Knowledge and Learning’ and ‘Foster a Design Culture’. Underpinned by a place-based approach and the integration of Dr Charles Burnette’s IDESIGN teaching model, the program gives students and teachers the opportunity to explore, analyse and reimagine their local town through a series of scaffolded problem solving activities around the theme of ‘place’. The program allows students to gain hands-on experience designing graphics, products, interior spaces and architecture to assist their local community, with the support of design professionals. Students work individually and in groups on real design problems learning sketching, making, communication, presentation and collaboration skills to improve their design process, while considering social, cultural and environmental opportunities. The program was designed to facilitate an understanding of the value of design thinking and its importance to regional communities, to give students more information about various design disciplines as career options, and provide a professional development opportunity for teachers. Advisory assistance for the program was gained through Kelvin Grove State College, Queensland Studies Authority and QMI/Manufacturing Skills Queensland Manager, Manufacturing & Engineering Gateway Schools Project.

Learning by design workshop

The Learning by Design Workshop Program 2010, a part of the Queensland Government Unlimited: Designing for the Asia Pacific Event Program, was a one-day professional development design thinking workshop run on October 9, 2011 at The Edge, State Library of Queensland for self-selected public and private secondary school teachers from the subject areas of Visual Art, Graphics and Industrial Technology and Design. Participants were drawn from a database of Brisbane and regional Queensland schools from the goDesign and Living City Workshop Programs. It aimed to generate leadership within schools for design-led education and creative thinking and give teachers a rare opportunity to work with professional designers to generate future strategies for design-based learning. Teachers were introduced to the concept of design thinking in education by international keynote speakers CJ Lim (Studio 8 Architects) and Jeb Brugmann (The Next Practice), national speaker Oliver Freeman (NevilleFreeman Agency) and three Queensland speakers, Alexander Loterztain, David Williams and Keith Holledge. Inspired by the Unlimited showcase exhibition Make Change: Design Thinking in Action and ‘Idea Starters’/teaching resources provided, teachers worked with a professional designer (from a discipline of architecture, interior design, industrial design, urban design, graphic design or landscape architecture) in ten random teams, to generate optimistic ideas for the Ideal City of tomorrow, each considering a theme – Food, Water, Transport, Ageing, Growth, Employment, Shelter, Health, Education and Energy. They then discussed how this process could be best activated and expanded on to build interest and knowledge in design thinking in the classroom. Assisted by illustrators, the teams prepared a visual presentation of their ideas and process from art materials provided. The workshop culminated in a video-taped interactive design charette to the larger group, which is intended to be utilised as a toolkit and praxis for teachers as part of the State Library of Queensland Design Minds Website Project.

QUT Design Lecture Series

The QUT Design Lecture Series 2010 was a partnered event between QUT School of Design and the State Library of Queensland. The series, spanning from July to September 2010, involved 10 lectures delivered by international, national and local academics, researchers and practitioners. The QUT Design Lecture series 2010 was a public event which examined the cross over between design, digital technologies and artistic practices focusing upon research themes of intangible media, experimental eco-technologies and artistic-design production. Gold Medal Australian Institute of Architects, Clare Design opened the series, whilst internationally awarded and recognised Spanish design group Cloud 9 concluded the series, both focusing on new eco-technologies in the development of contemporary architecture.

Subtropical towers typology design : RNA showground case study

The QUT Team developed an idea for a new residential housing typology that is appropriate for sites where the best views are in the opposing direction to the preferable climatic orientation. The interlocking configuration creates a double height external living space in every apartment, creating further opportunities for cross ventilation and natural daylight. Unlike conventional double loaded housing typologies, the interlocking configuration only requires a continuous public circulation corridor every second level. The cores that service this corridor are separated to either end of the tower and open areas. The configuration of the interlocking apartments creates an interesting composition of solid and void when viewed externally. This undulating facade petternation assists in articulating the large building mass. The project was evaluated by independent consultants and found to be cost effective, and at the same time delivering energy efficient high density liveability. The project was presented to a meeting of the Australian Council on Tall Buildings seminar on 15 September 2010.

Flying Spore Trap Airborne Based Surveillance : towards a Biosecure Australia

The main limitations with existing fungal spore traps are that they are stationary and cannot be used in inaccessible or remote areas of Australia. This may result in delayed assessment, possible spread of harmful crop infestations and loss of crop yield and productivity. Fitted with the developed smart spore trap the UAV can fly, detect and monitor spores of plant pathogens in areas which previously were almost impossible to monitor. The technology will allow for earlier detection of emergency plant pests (EPPs) incursions by providing efficient and effective airborne surveillance, helping to protect Australia’s crops, pastures and the environment. The project is led by the Cooperative Research Centre for National Plant Biosecurity, with ARCAA/ QUT, CSIRO and the Queensland Government also providing resources. The prototype airplane was exhibited at the Innovation in Australia event December 7.

Design led innovation as a means to sustain social innovation enterprises

This proposition challenges the notion that clean technology firms, who form part of the emerging social innovation enterprise sector, do not have the resources to gain value from Design Led innovation practices, due to their size and operational constraints. Much has been written on the benefits of linking design and design thinking to organisational strategy and business transformation. The term Design Led in the context of this proposition is defined as the tools and approaches which enable design thinking to be embedded as a cultural transformation within a business. Being Design Led requires a company to have a vision for top line growth within their business, which is based on deep customer insights and expanded through customer and stakeholder engagements, with the outcomes being mapped to all aspects of the business to enable the vision to be achieved.

Efficient modular exponentiation-based puzzles for denial-of-service protection

Client puzzles are moderately-hard cryptographic problems neither easy nor impossible to solve that can be used as a counter-measure against denial of service attacks on network protocols. Puzzles based on modular exponentiation are attractive as they provide important properties such as non-parallelisability, deterministic solving time, and linear granularity. We propose an efficient client puzzle based on modular exponentiation. Our puzzle requires only a few modular multiplications for puzzle generation and verification. For a server under denial of service attack, this is a significant improvement as the best known non-parallelisable puzzle proposed by Karame and Capkun (ESORICS 2010) requires at least 2k-bit modular exponentiation, where k is a security parameter. We show that our puzzle satisfies the unforgeability and difficulty properties defined by Chen et al. (Asiacrypt 2009). We present experimental results which show that, for 1024-bit moduli, our proposed puzzle can be up to 30 times faster to verify than the Karame-Capkun puzzle and 99 times faster than the Rivest et al.'s time-lock puzzle.

A conceptual model to link deep customer insights to both growth opportunities and organisational strategy in SME’s as part of a design led transformation journey

Although Design Led Innovation activities aim to raise the value of design within the business, knowledge about which tools are available to support companies and how to apply them to make the connection between design for new product development and design as a strategic driver of growth is needed. This paper presents a conceptual method to supplement existing process and tools to assist companies to grow through design. The model extends the authors’ previous work to explore how through storytelling, customer observation can be captured and translated into new meaning, then creating new design propositions shaped into product needs, which can drive internal business activities, brand and the strategic vision. The paper contributes to a gap in the theoretical frameworks and literature by highlighting the need to align and scale design processes which match the needs of SME’s as they transition along a trajectory to become design led businesses.

Growing local participation through long term design

Our research explores the design of networked technologies to facilitate local suburban communications and to encourage people to engage with their local community. While there are many investigations of interaction designs for networked technologies, most research utilises small exercises, workshops or other short-term studies to investigate interaction designs. However, we have found these short-term methods to be ineffective in the context of understanding local community interaction. Moreover we find that people are resistant to putting their time into workshops and exercises, understandably so because these are academic practices, not local community practices. Our contribution is to detail a long term embedded design approach in which we interact with the community over the long term in the course of normal community goings-on with an evolving exploratory prototype. This paper discusses the embedded approach to working in the wild for extended field research.

Design and design thinking in business and management education and development

Design and design thinking have been identified as making valuable contributions to business and management and the numbers of higher education programs that teach design thinking to business students, managers and executives are growing. However multiple definitions of design thinking and the range of perspectives have created some confusion about potential pathways. This paper examines notions of design and design thinking and uses these definitions to identify themes in higher educational programs. We present the findings from an initial exploratory investigation of design and design thinking in higher education business programs and define four distinct educational approaches around human centred innovation, integrative thinking, design management and design as strategy. Potential directions for management education programs are presented.

Can transfer of learning be enriched by valuing knowledge transformation and co-creation? Exploring new ways to improve training design

This paper argues that a possible cause of issues with management education outcomes is the fact that most training models operate from a limited ‘transfer’ metaphor. This theoretical paper contends that by reconceptualising existing models, specifically Holton’s transfer of learning model, to incorporate multiple processes and acknowledge the importance of educator- or trainer-student interaction in co-creating knowledge, there is potential to improve training design and ultimately achieve more satisfactory training outcomes.

Interactive axial shortening of columns and walls in high rise buildings

Concrete is commonly used as a primary construction material for tall building construction. Load bearing components such as columns and walls in concrete buildings are subjected to instantaneous and long term axial shortening caused by the time dependent effects of "shrinkage", "creep" and "elastic" deformations. Reinforcing steel content, variable concrete modulus, volume to surface area ratio of the elements and environmental conditions govern axial shortening. The impact of differential axial shortening among columns and core shear walls escalate with increasing building height. Differential axial shortening of gravity loaded elements in geometrically complex and irregular buildings result in permanent distortion and deflection of the structural frame which have a significant impact on building envelopes, building services, secondary systems and the life time serviceability and performance of a building. Existing numerical methods commonly used in design to quantify axial shortening are mainly based on elastic analytical techniques and therefore unable to capture the complexity of non-linear time dependent effect. Ambient measurements of axial shortening using vibrating wire, external mechanical strain, and electronic strain gauges are methods that are available to verify pre-estimated values from the design stage. Installing these gauges permanently embedded in or on the surface of concrete components for continuous measurements during and after construction with adequate protection is uneconomical, inconvenient and unreliable. Therefore such methods are rarely if ever used in actual practice of building construction. This research project has developed a rigorous numerical procedure that encompasses linear and non-linear time dependent phenomena for prediction of axial shortening of reinforced concrete structural components at design stage. This procedure takes into consideration (i) construction sequence, (ii) time varying values of Young's Modulus of reinforced concrete and (iii) creep and shrinkage models that account for variability resulting from environmental effects. The capabilities of the procedure are illustrated through examples. In order to update previous predictions of axial shortening during the construction and service stages of the building, this research has also developed a vibration based procedure using ambient measurements. This procedure takes into consideration the changes in vibration characteristic of structure during and after construction. The application of this procedure is illustrated through numerical examples which also highlight the features. The vibration based procedure can also be used as a tool to assess structural health/performance of key structural components in the building during construction and service life.

Multiple perspectives of design thinking in business education

Business education leaders have expressed interest in learning more about design and design thinking and their contributions to better problem framing, problem solving and to generating new solutions. Many business schools have engaged in educational programs with students from multiple disciplines, applying design thinking to business problems around workplace issues. This paper investigates a range of educational programs that teach design thinking to students in business education, at undergraduate and postgraduate levels around the world. We identify four patterns of program delivery that are emerging: human-centered design, integrative thinking, design management and design as strategy and discuss contributions from each. We expect that these four patterns of program delivery will continue and predict an increasing focus on programs around design as strategy in the near future.

A burning issue : fashion and sun protection

The 'dick' tog, a briefs-style male swimsuit as it is colloquially referred to, is linked to Australia's national identity with overtly masculine bronzed 'Aussie' bodies clothed in this iconic apparel. However, the reality is, our hunger for worshiping the sun and the addiction to a beach culture is tempered by the pragmatic need to cover up and wear neck-to-knee, or more apt, head-to-toe sun protective clothing. Australia, in particular the state of Queensland, has one of the highest rates of skin cancer in the world; nevertheless, even after wide-ranging public programs for sun safety awareness many people still continue to wear designs that provide minimal sun protection. This paper will examine issues surrounding fashion and sun safe clothing. It will be proposed that in order to have effective community adoption of sun safe practices it is critical to understand the important role that fashion plays in determining sun protective behaviour.