Chinese fashion designers in Shanghai : identifying a fresh perspective about their role in the world order of fashion

Shanghai possesses an apt legacy, once referred to as “Paris of the East”. Municipal aspirations for Shanghai to assume a position among the great fashion cities of the world have been integrated in the recent re-shaping of this modern city into a role model for Chinese creative enterprise yet China is still known primarily as centre of clothing production. Increasingly however, “Made in China” is being replaced by “Created in China” drawing attention to two distinct consumer markets for Chinese designers. Fashion designers who have entered the global fashion system for education or by showing their collections have generally adopted a design aesthetic that aligns with Western markets, allowing little competitive advantage. In contrast, Chinese designers who rest their attention on the domestic Chinese market find a disparate, highly competitive marketplace. The pillars of authenticity that for foreign fashion brands extend far into their cultural and creative histories, often for many decades in the case of Louis Vuitton, Hermes and Christian Dior do not yet exist in China in this era of rapid globalisation. Here, the cultural bedrock allows these same pillars to extend only thirty years or so into the past reaching the moments when Deng Xiaoping granted China’s creative entrepreneurs passage. To this end, interviews with fashion designers in Shanghai have been undertaken during the last twelve months for a PhD dissertation. Production of culture theory has been used to identify working methods, practices of production and the social and cultural milieu necessary for designers to achieve viability. Preliminary findings indicate that some fashion designers have adopted an as-yet unexplored strategy of business and brand development with a distinct Chinese aesthetic at its core, in contrast to the clichéd cultural iconography often viewed by Western viewers as representative of Chinese creativity.

Chinese fashion designers in Shanghai : a new perspective about their role in the construction of a fashion city

Shanghai possesses an apt legacy, once referred to as ‘Paris of the East’. Municipal aspirations for Shanghai to assume a position among the great fashion cities of the world have been integrated in the recent re-shaping of this modern city into a role model for Chinese creative enterprise yet China is still known primarily as centre of clothing production. Increasingly however, ‘Made in China’ is being replaced by ‘Created in China’ drawing attention to two distinct consumer markets for Chinese designers. Fashion designers who have entered the global fashion system for education or by showing their collections have generally adopted a design aesthetic that aligns with Western markets, allowing little competitive advantage. In contrast, Chinese designers who rest their attention on the domestic Chinese market find a disparate, highly competitive marketplace. The pillars of authenticity that for foreign fashion brands extend far into their cultural and creative histories, often for many decades in the case of Louis Vuitton, Hermes and Christian Dior do not yet exist in China in this era of rapid globalisation. Here, the cultural bedrock allows these same pillars to extend only thirty years or so into the past reaching the moments when Deng Xiaoping granted China’s creative entrepreneurs passage. To this end, interviews with fashion designers in Shanghai have been undertaken during the last twelve months for a PhD dissertation. Production of culture theory has been used to identify working methods, practices of production and the social and cultural milieu necessary for designers to achieve viability. Preliminary findings indicate that some fashion designers have adopted an as-yet unexplored strategy of business and brand development with a distinct Chinese aesthetic at its core, in contrast to the clichéd cultural iconography often viewed by Western viewers as representative of Chinese creativity. The development of this aesthetic is similar to the development of the Scandinavian design ethos that emerged during the 1950s.

Effect of bone morphogenetic protein-4 (BMP-4) on the expression of Sox2, Oct-4 and c-Myc in human periodontal ligament cells during long-term culture

Recent studies demonstrated endogenous expression level of Sox2, Oct-4 and c-Myc is correlated with the pluripotency and successful induction of induced pluripotent stem cells (iPSCs). Periondontal ligament cells (PDLCs)have multi-lineage diferentiation capability and ability to maintain undifferentiated stage, which makes PDLCs a suitable cell source for tissue repair and regeneration. To elucidate the effect of in vitro culture condition on the stemness potential of PDLCs, we explored the cell growth, proliferation, cell cycle, and the expression of Sox2, Oct-4 and c-Myc in PDLCs from passage 1 to 7 with or without the addition of recombinant human BMP4(rhBMP4). Our results revealed that BMP-4 promoted cell growth and proliferation, arrested PDLCs in S phase of cell cycle and upregulated PI value. It was revealed that without the addition of rhBMP4, the expression of Sox2, Oct-4 and c-Myc in PDLCs only maintained nucleus location until passage 3, then lost nucleus location subsequently. The mRNA expression in PDLCs further confirmed that the level of Sox2 and Oct-4 peaked at passage 3, then decreased afterwards, whereas c-Myc maintained consistently upregulation along passages. after the treatment with rhBMP4, the expression of Sox2, Oct-4 and c-Myc in PDLCs maintained nucleus location even at passage 7 and the mRNA expression of Sox2 and Oct-4 significantly upregulated at passage 5 and 7. These results demonstrated that addition of rhBMP-4 in the culture media could improve the current culture condition for PDLCs to maintain in an undifferentiated stage.

Service condition of railroad corridors around the insulated rail joints

Railroad corridors contain large number of Insulated Rail Joints (IRJs) that act as safety critical elements in the circuitries of the signaling and broken rail identification systems. IRJs are regarded as sources of excitation for the passage of loaded wheels leading to high impact forces; these forces in turn cause dips, cross levels and twists to the railroad geometry in close proximity to the sections containing the IRJs in addition to the local damages to the railhead of the IRJs. Therefore, a systematic monitoring of the IRJs in railroad is prudent to mitigate potential risk of their sudden failure (e.g., broken tie plates) under the traffic. This paper presents a simple method of periodic recording of images using time-lapse photography and total station surveying measurements to understand the ongoing deterioration of the IRJs and their surroundings. Over a 500 day period, data were collected to examine the trends in narrowing of the joint gap due to plastic deformation the railhead edges and the dips, cross levels and twists caused to the railroad geometry due to the settlement of ties (sleepers) around the IRJs. The results reflect that the average progressive settlement beneath the IRJs is larger than that under the continuously welded rail, which leads to excessive deviation of railroad profile, cross levels and twists.

Interpersonal coupling in rowing : the mediating role of the environment

Evidence currently supports the view that intentional interpersonal coordination (IIC) is a self-organizing phenomenon facilitated by visual perception of co-actors in a coordinative coupling (Schmidt, Richardson, Arsenault, & Galantucci, 2007). The present study examines how apparent IIC is achieved in situations where visual information is limited for co-actors in a rowing boat. In paired rowing boats only one of the actors, [bow seat] gets to see the actions of the other [stroke seat]. Thus IIC appears to be facilitated despite the lack of important visual information for the control of the dyad. Adopting a mimetic approach to expert coordination, the present study qualitatively examined the experiences of expert performers (N=9) and coaches (N=4) with respect to how IIC was achieved in paired rowing boats. Themes were explored using inductive content analysis, which led to layered model of control. Rowers and coaches reported the use of multiple perceptual sources in order to achieve IIC. As expected(Kelso, 1995; Schmidt & O’Brien, 1997; Turvey, 1990), rowers in the bow of a pair boat make use of visual information provided by the partner in front of them [stroke]. However, this perceptual information is subordinate to perception Motor Learning and Control S111 of the relationship between the boat hull and water passing beside it. Stroke seat, in the absence of visual information about his/her partner, achieves coordination by picking up information about the lifting or looming of the boat’s stern along with water passage past the hull. In this case it appears that apparent or desired IIC is supported by the perception of extra-personal variables, in this case boat behavior; as this perceptual information source is used by both actors. To conclude, co-actors in two person rowing boats use multiple sources of perceptual information for apparent IIC that changes according to task constraints. Where visual information is restricted IIC is facilitated via extra-personal perceptual information and apparent IIC switches to intentional extra-personal coordination.

Image-based flow visualisation (IBFV) to enhance interpretation of complex flow patterns within a shallow tidal barrier estuary

We applied a texture-based flow visualisation technique to a numerical hydrodynamic model of the Pumicestone Passage in southeast Queensland, Australia. The quality of the visualisations using our flow visualisation tool, are compared with animations generated using more traditional drogue release plot and velocity contour and vector techniques. The texture-based method is found to be far more effective in visualising advective flow within the model domain. In some instances, it also makes it easier for the researcher to identify specific hydrodynamic features within the complex flow regimes of this shallow tidal barrier estuary as compared with the direct and geometric based methods.

Development of optimal designs of insulated rail joints

Proper functioning of Insulated Rail Joints (IRJs) is essential for the safe operation of the railway signalling systems and broken rail identification circuitries. The Conventional IRJ (CIRJ) resembles structural butt joints consisting of two pieces of rails connected together through two joint bars on either side of their web and the assembly is held together through pre-tensioned bolts. As the IRJs should maintain electrical insulation between the two rails, a gap between the rail ends must be retained at all times and all metal contacting surfaces should be electrically isolated from each other using non-conductive material. At the gap, the rail ends lose longitudinal continuity and hence the vertical sections of the rail ends are often severely damaged, especially at the railhead, due to the passage of wheels compared to other continuously welded rail sections. Fundamentally, the reason for the severe damage can be related to the singularities of the wheel-rail contact pressure and the railhead stress. No new generation designs that have emerged in the market to date have focussed on this fundamental; they only have provided attention to either the higher strength materials or the thickness of the sections of various components of the IRJs. In this thesis a novel method of shape optimisation of the railhead is developed to eliminate the pressure and stress singularities through changes to the original sharp corner shaped railhead into an arc profile in the longitudinal direction. The optimal shape of the longitudinal railhead profile has been determined using three nongradient methods in search of accuracy and efficiency: (1) Grid Search Method; (2) Genetic Algorithm Method and (3) Hybrid Genetic Algorithm Method. All these methods have been coupled with a parametric finite element formulation for the evaluation of the objective function for each iteration or generation depending on the search algorithm employed. The optimal shape derived from these optimisation methods is termed as Stress Minimised Railhead (SMRH) in this thesis. This optimal SMRH design has exhibited significantly reduced stress concentration that remains well below the yield strength of the head hardened rail steels and has shifted the stress concentration location away from the critical zone of the railhead end. The reduction in the magnitude and the relocation of the stress concentration in the SMRH design has been validated through a full scale wheel – railhead interaction test rig; Railhead strains under the loaded wheels have been recorded using a non-contact digital image correlation method. Experimental study has confirmed the accuracy of the numerical predications. Although the SMRH shaped IRJs eliminate stress singularities, they can still fail due to joint bar or bolt hole cracking; therefore, another conceptual design, termed as Embedded IRJ (EIRJ) in this thesis, with no joint bars and pre-tensioned bolts has been developed using a multi-objective optimisation formulation based on the coupled genetic algorithm – parametric finite element method. To achieve the required structural stiffness for the safe passage of the loaded wheels, the rails were embedded into the concrete of the post tensioned sleepers; the optimal solutions for the design of the EIRJ is shown to simplify the design through the elimination of the complex interactions and failure modes of the various structural components of the CIRJ. The practical applicability of the optimal shapes SMRH and EIRJ is demonstrated through two illustrative examples, termed as improved designs (IMD1 & IMD2) in this thesis; IMD1 is a combination of the CIRJ and the SMRH designs, whilst IMD2 is a combination of the EIRJ and SMRH designs. These two improved designs have been simulated for two key operating (speed and wagon load) and design (wheel diameter) parameters that affect the wheel-rail contact; the effect of these parameters has been found to be negligible to the performance of the two improved designs and the improved designs are in turn found far superior to the current designs of the CIRJs in terms of stress singularities and deformation under the passage of the loaded wheels. Therefore, these improved designs are expected to provide longer service life in relation to the CIRJs.

Development of an ultra-thin fibroin membrane for RPE cell transplantation

Purpose: One of the challenges associated with cell-based therapies for repairing the retina is the development of suitable materials on which to grow and transplant retinal cells. Using the ARPE-19 cell line, we have previously demonstrated the feasibility of growing RPE-derived cells on membranes prepared from the silk protein fibroin. The present study was aimed at developing a porous, ultra-thin fibroin membrane that might better support development of apical-basal polarity in culture, and to extend this work to primary cultures of human RPE cells. Methods: Ultra-thin fibroin membranes were prepared using a highly polished casting table coated with Topas® (a cyclic olefin copolymer) and a 1:0.03 aqueous solution of fibroin and PEO (Mv 900 000 g/mol). Following drying, the membranes were water annealed to make them water-stable, washed in water to remove PEO, sterilised by treatment with 95% ethanol, and washed extensively in saline. Primary cultures containing human RPE cells were established from donor posterior eye cups and maintained in DMEM/F12 medium supplemented with 10% fetal bovine serum and antibiotics. First passage cultures were seeded onto fibroin membranes pre-coated with vitronectin and grown for 6 weeks in medium supplemented with 1% serum. Comparative cultures were established on porous 1.0 µm pore PET membrane (Millipore) and using ARPE-19 cells. Results: The fibroin membranes displayed an average thickness of 3 µm and contained numerous dimples/pore-like structures of up to 3-5 µm in diameter. The primary cultures predominantly contained pigmented epithelial cells, but mesenchymal cells (presumed fibroblasts) were also often present. Passaged cultures appeared to attach equally well to either fibroin or PET membranes. Over time cells on either material adopted a more cobblestoned morphology. Conclusions: Progress has been made towards developing a porous ultra-thin fibroin membrane that supports cultivation of RPE cells. Further studies are required to determine the degree of membrane permeability and RPE polarity.

Sense-making across space and time : implications for the organization and findability of information

This paper presents the results from a study of information behaviors, with specific focus on information organisation-related behaviours conducted as part of a larger daily diary study with 34 participants. The findings indicate that organization of information in everyday life is a problematic area due to various factors. The self-evident one is the inter-subjectivity between the person who may have organized the information and the person looking for that same information (Berlin et. al., 1993). Increasingly though, we are not just looking for information within collections that have been designed by someone else, but within our own personal collections of information, which frequently include books, electronic files, photos, records, documents, desktops, web bookmarks, and portable devices. The passage of time between when we categorized or classified the information, and the time when we look for the same information, poses several problems of intra-subjectivity, or the difference between our own past and present perceptions of the same information. Information searching, and hence the retrieval of information from one's own collection of information in everyday life involved a spatial and temporal coordination with one's own past selves in a sort of cognitive and affective time travel, just as organizing information is a form of anticipatory coordination with one's future information needs. This has implications for finding information and also on personal information management.

Chinese fashion designers in Shanghai : identifying a fresh perspective about their role in the world order of fashion

Shanghai possesses an apt legacy, once referred to as “Paris of the East”. Municipal aspirations for Shanghai to assume a position among the great fashion cities of the world have been integrated in the recent re-shaping of this modern city into a role model for Chinese creative enterprise yet China is still known primarily as centre of clothing production. Increasingly however, “Made in China” is being replaced by “Created in China” drawing attention to two distinct consumer markets for Chinese designers. Fashion designers who have entered the global fashion system for education or by showing their collections have generally adopted a design aesthetic that aligns with Western markets, allowing little competitive advantage. In contrast, Chinese designers who rest their attention on the domestic Chinese market find a disparate, highly competitive marketplace. The pillars of authenticity that for foreign fashion brands extend far into their cultural and creative histories, often for many decades in the case of Louis Vuitton, Hermes and Christian Dior do not yet exist in China in this era of rapid globalisation. Here, the cultural bedrock allows these same pillars to extend only thirty years or so into the past reaching the moments when Deng Xiaoping granted China’s creative entrepreneurs passage. To this end, interviews with fashion designers in Shanghai have been undertaken during the last twelve months for a PhD dissertation. Production of culture theory has been used to identify working methods, practices of production and the social and cultural milieu necessary for designers to achieve viability.

Structural and material characterisation of insulated rail joints

Insulated rail joints are designed in a similar way to butt jointed steel structural systems, the difference being a purpose made gap between the main rail members to maintain electrical insulation for the proper functioning of the track circuitry at all times of train operation. When loaded wheels pass the gap, they induce an impact loading with the corresponding strains in the railhead edges exceeding the plastic limit significantly, which lead to metal flow across the gap thereby increasing the risk of short circuiting and impeding the proper functioning of the signalling and broken rail identification circuitries, of which the joints are a critical part. The performance of insulated rail joints under the passage of the wheel loading is complex due to the presence of a number of interacting components and hence is not well understood. This paper presents a dynamic wheel-rail contact-impact modelling method for the determination of the impact loading; a brief description of a field experiment to capture strain signatures for validating the predicted impact loading is also presented. The process and the results of the characterisation of the materials from virgin, in-service and damaged insulated rail joints using neutron diffraction method are also discussed.

Vertical dynamic interaction of trains and rail steel bridges

Rail steel bridges are vulnerable to high impact forces due to the passage of trains; unfortunately the determination of these transient impact forces is not straightforward as these are affected by a large number of parameters, including the wagon design, the wheel-rail contact and the design parameters of the bridge deck and track, as well as the operational parameters – wheel load and speed. To determine these impact forces, a detailed rail train-track/bridge dynamic interaction model has been developed, which includes a comprehensive train model using multi-body dynamics approach and a flexible track/bridge model using Euler– Bernoulli beam theory. Single and multi-span bridges have been modelled to examine their dynamic characteristics. From the single span bridge, the train critical speed is determined; the minimum distance of two peak loadings is found to affect the train critical speed. The impact factor and the dynamic characteristics are discussed.

Construction of interstellar cumulenes and heterocumulenes : Mass spectrometric studies

The last few years have brought an increasing interest in the chemistry of rite interstellar and circumstellar environs. Many of the molecular species discovered in remote galactic regions have been dubbed 'non-terrestrial' because of their unique structures (Thaddeus et al, 1993). These findings have provided a challenge to chemists in many differing fields to attempt to generate these unusual species in the laboratory of particular recent interest have been the unsaturated hydrocarbon families, CnH and CnH2, which have been pursued by a number of diverse methodologies. A wine range of heterocumulenes, including CnO, HCnO, CnN, HCnN, CnS, HCnS, CnSi and HCnSi have also provided intriguing targets for laboratory experiments. Strictly the term cumulene refers to a class of compounds that possess a series of adjacent double bonds, with allene representing the simplest example (H2C=C=CH2). However for many of the non-terrestrial molecules presented here, the carbon chain cannot be described in terms of a single simple valence structure, and so we use the terms cumulene and heterocumulene in a more general sense: to describe molecular species that contain an unsaturated polycarbon chain. Mass spectrometry has proved an invaluable tool in the quest for interstellar cumulenes and heterocumulenes in the laboratory it has the ability in its many forms, to (i) generate charged analogs of these species in the gas phase, (ii) probe their connectivity, ion chemistry, and thermochemistry, and (iii) in some cases, elucidate the neutrals themselves. Here, we will discuss the progress of these studies to this time. (C) 1999 John Wiley & Sons, Inc.

Overview of the INEX 2008 Ad Hoc Track

This paper gives an overview of the INEX 2008 Ad Hoc Track. The main goals of the Ad Hoc Track were two-fold. The first goal was to investigate the value of the internal document structure (as provided by the XML mark-up) for retrieving relevant information. This is a continuation of INEX 2007 and, for this reason, the retrieval results are liberalized to arbitrary passages and measures were chosen to fairly compare systems retrieving elements, ranges of elements, and arbitrary passages. The second goal was to compare focused retrieval to article retrieval more directly than in earlier years. For this reason, standard document retrieval rankings have been derived from all runs, and evaluated with standard measures. In addition, a set of queries targeting Wikipedia have been derived from a proxy log, and the runs are also evaluated against the clicked Wikipedia pages. The INEX 2008 Ad Hoc Track featured three tasks: For the Focused Task a ranked-list of nonoverlapping results (elements or passages) was needed. For the Relevant in Context Task non-overlapping results (elements or passages) were returned grouped by the article from which they came. For the Best in Context Task a single starting point (element start tag or passage start) for each article was needed. We discuss the results for the three tasks, and examine the relative effectiveness of element and passage retrieval. This is examined in the context of content only (CO, or Keyword) search as well as content and structure (CAS, or structured) search. Finally, we look at the ability of focused retrieval techniques to rank articles, using standard document retrieval techniques, both against the judged topics as well as against queries and clicks from a proxy log.

Effect of vertical misalignment of adjacent sleepers on the increase in dynamic loads around rail joints

In spite of the extensive usage of continuous welded rails, a number of rail joints still exist in the track. Although a number of them exist as part of turnouts in the yards where the speed is not of concern, the Insultated Rail Joints (IRJs) that exist in ballasted tracks remain a source of significant impact loading. A portion of the dynamic load generated at the rail joints due to wheel passage is transmitted to the support system which leads to permanent settlements of the ballast layer with subsequent vertical misalignment of the sleepers around the rail joints. The vertical misalignment of the adjacent sleepers forms a source of high frequency dynamic load raisers causing significant maintenance work including localised grinding of railhead around the joint, re-alignment of the sleepers and/or ballast tamping or track component renewals/repairs. These localised maintenance activities often require manual inspections and disruptions to the train traffic loading to significant costs to the rail industry. Whilst a number of studies have modelled the effect of joints as dips, none have specifically attended to the effect of vertical misalignment of the sleepers on the dynamic response of rail joints. This paper presents a coupled finite element track model and rigid body track-vehicle interaction model through which the effects of vertical of sleepers on the increase in dynamic loads around the IRJ are studied. The finite element track model is employed to determine the generated dip from elastic deformations as well as the vertical displacement of sleepers around the joint. These data (dip and vertical misalignments) are then imported into the rigid body vehicle-track interaction model to calculate the dynamic loads.