Writing fashion’s future: the gods and monsters of the Anthropocene

This paper identifies two narratives of the Anthropocene and explores how they play out in the realm of future-looking fashion production. Each narrative draws on mythic comparisons to gods and monsters to express humanity’s dilemmas, albeit from different perspectives. The first is a Malthusian narrative of collapse and scarcity, brought about by the monstrous, unstoppable nature of human technology set loose on the natural world. In this vein, philosopher Slavoj Zizek (2010) draws on Biblical analogies, likening ecological crisis to one of the four horsemen of the apocalypse. To find a myth to suit the present times, novelist A.S Byatt (2011) proposes Ragnarök, a Norse myth in which the gods destroy themselves. In contrast, the second narrative is one of technological cornucopia. Stewart Brand (2009, 27), self-described ‘eco-pragmatist’ writes, ‘we are as gods and we have to get good at it’. In his view, human technologies offer the only hope to mitigating the problems caused by human technology – Brand suggests harnessing nuclear power, bioengineering of crops and the geoengineering of the planet as the way forward. Similarly, the French philosopher Bruno Latour (2012, 274), exhorts us to “love our monsters”, likening our technologies to Doctor Frankenstein’s monster – set loose upon the world, and then reviled by his creator. For both Brand and Latour, human technology may be monstrous, but it must also be turned toward solutions. Within this schema, hopeful visions of the future of fashion are similarly divided. In the techno-enabled cornucopian future, the fashion industry embraces wearable technology, speed and efficiency. Technologies such as waterless dyeing, 3D printing and self-cleaning garments shift fashion into a new era of cleaner production. Meanwhile, in the narrative of scarcity, a more cautious approach sees fashion return to a new localism and valuing of the hand-made in a time of shrinking resources. Through discussion of future-looking fashion designers, brands, and activists, this paper explores how they may align along a spectrum to one of these two grand narratives of the future. The paper will discuss how these narratives may unconsciously shape the perspective of both producers and users around the fashion of today and the fashion of tomorrow. This paper poses the question: what stories can be written for fashion’s future in the Anthropocene, and are they fated, or can they be re-written?

A comparative structural bioinformatics analysis of the insulin receptor family ectodomain based on phylogenetic information

The insulin receptor (IR), the insulin-like growth factor 1 receptor (IGF1R) and the insulin receptor-related receptor (IRR) are covalently-linked homodimers made up of several structural domains. The molecular mechanism of ligand binding to the ectodomain of these receptors and the resulting activation of their tyrosine kinase domain is still not well understood. We have carried out an amino acid residue conservation analysis in order to reconstruct the phylogeny of the IR Family. We have confirmed the location of ligand binding site 1 of the IGF1R and IR. Importantly, we have also predicted the likely location of the insulin binding site 2 on the surface of the fibronectin type III domains of the IR. An evolutionary conserved surface on the second leucine-rich domain that may interact with the ligand could not be detected. We suggest a possible mechanical trigger of the activation of the IR that involves a slight ‘twist’ rotation of the last two fibronectin type III domains in order to face the likely location of insulin. Finally, a strong selective pressure was found amongst the IRR orthologous sequences, suggesting that this orphan receptor has a yet unknown physiological role which may be conserved from amphibians to mammals.

Computer simulation in spine biomechanics : An application in adolescent idiopathic scoliosis

Scoliosis is a spinal deformity, involving a side-to-side curvature of the spine in the coronal plane as well as a rotation of the spinal column in the transverse plane. The coronal curvature is measured using a Cobb angle. If the deformity is severe, treatment for scoliosis may require surgical intervention whereby a rod is attached to the spinal column to correct the abnormal curvature. In order to provide surgeons with an improved ability to predict the likely outcomes following surgery, techniques to create patient-specific finite element models (FEM) of scoliosis patients treated at the Mater Children’s Hospital (MCH) in Brisbane are being developed and validated. This paper presents a comparison of the simulated and clinical data for a scoliosis patient treated at MCH.

Peripheral ocular monochromatic aberrations

Aberrations affect image quality of the eye away from the line of sight as well as along it. High amounts of lower order aberrations are found in the peripheral visual field and higher order aberrations change away from the centre of the visual field. Peripheral resolution is poorer than that in central vision, but peripheral vision is important for movement and detection tasks (for example driving) which are adversely affected by poor peripheral image quality. Any physiological process or intervention that affects axial image quality will affect peripheral image quality as well. The aim of this study was to investigate the effects of accommodation, myopia, age, and refractive interventions of orthokeratology, laser in situ keratomileusis and intraocular lens implantation on the peripheral aberrations of the eye. This is the first systematic investigation of peripheral aberrations in a variety of subject groups. Peripheral aberrations can be measured either by rotating a measuring instrument relative to the eye or rotating the eye relative to the instrument. I used the latter as it is much easier to do. To rule out effects of eye rotation on peripheral aberrations, I investigated the effects of eye rotation on axial and peripheral cycloplegic refraction using an open field autorefractor. For axial refraction, the subjects fixated at a target straight ahead, while their heads were rotated by ±30º with a compensatory eye rotation to view the target. For peripheral refraction, the subjects rotated their eyes to fixate on targets out to ±34° along the horizontal visual field, followed by measurements in which they rotated their heads such that the eyes stayed in the primary position relative to the head while fixating at the peripheral targets. Oblique viewing did not affect axial or peripheral refraction. Therefore it is not critical, within the range of viewing angles studied, if axial and peripheral refractions are measured with rotation of the eye relative to the instrument or rotation of the instrument relative to the eye. Peripheral aberrations were measured using a commercial Hartmann-Shack aberrometer. A number of hardware and software changes were made. The 1.4 mm range limiting aperture was replaced by a larger aperture (2.5 mm) to ensure all the light from peripheral parts of the pupil reached the instrument detector even when aberrations were high such as those occur in peripheral vision. The power of the super luminescent diode source was increased to improve detection of spots passing through the peripheral pupil. A beam splitter was placed between the subjects and the aberrometer, through which they viewed an array of targets on a wall or projected on a screen in a 6 row x 7 column matrix of points covering a visual field of 42 x 32. In peripheral vision, the pupil of the eye appears elliptical rather than circular; data were analysed off-line using custom software to determine peripheral aberrations. All analyses in the study were conducted for 5.0 mm pupils. Influence of accommodation on peripheral aberrations was investigated in young emmetropic subjects by presenting fixation targets at 25 cm and 3 m (4.0 D and 0.3 D accommodative demands, respectively). Increase in accommodation did not affect the patterns of any aberrations across the field, but there was overall negative shift in spherical aberration across the visual field of 0.10 ± 0.01m. Subsequent studies were conducted with the targets at a 1.2 m distance. Young emmetropes, young myopes and older emmetropes exhibited similar patterns of astigmatism and coma across the visual field. However, the rate of change of coma across the field was higher in young myopes than young emmetropes and was highest in older emmetropes amongst the three groups. Spherical aberration showed an overall decrease in myopes and increase in older emmetropes across the field, as compared to young emmetropes. Orthokeratology, spherical IOL implantation and LASIK altered peripheral higher order aberrations considerably, especially spherical aberration. Spherical IOL implantation resulted in an overall increase in spherical aberration across the field. Orthokeratology and LASIK reversed the direction of change in coma across the field. Orthokeratology corrected peripheral relative hypermetropia through correcting myopia in the central visual field. Theoretical ray tracing demonstrated that changes in aberrations due to orthokeratology and LASIK can be explained by the induced changes in radius of curvature and asphericity of the cornea. This investigation has shown that peripheral aberrations can be measured with reasonable accuracy with eye rotation relative to the instrument. Peripheral aberrations are affected by accommodation, myopia, age, orthokeratology, spherical intraocular lens implantation and laser in situ keratomileusis. These factors affect the magnitudes and patterns of most aberrations considerably (especially coma and spherical aberration) across the studied visual field. The changes in aberrations across the field may influence peripheral detection and motion perception. However, further research is required to investigate how the changes in aberrations influence peripheral detection and motion perception and consequently peripheral vision task performance.

Fast and robust stereo object recognition for spheres

The paper presents a fast and robust stereo object recognition method. The method is currently unable to identify the rotation of objects. This makes it very good at locating spheres which are rotationally independent. Approximate methods for located non-spherical objects have been developed. Fundamental to the method is that the correspondence problem is solved using information about the dimensions of the object being located. This is in contrast to previous stereo object recognition systems where the scene is first reconstructed by point matching techniques. The method is suitable for real-time application on low-power devices.

Range sensor pose estimation

This paper presents a method of recovering the 6 DoF pose (Cartesian position and angular rotation) of a range sensor mounted on a mobile platform. The method utilises point targets in a local scene and optimises over the error between their absolute position and their apparent position as observed by the range sensor. The analysis includes an investigation into the sensitivity and robustness of the method. Practical results were collected using a SICK LRS2100 mounted on a P&H electric mining shovel and present the errors in scan data relative to an independent 3D scan of the scene. A comparison to directly measuring the sensor pose is presented and shows the significant accuracy improvements in scene reconstruction using this pose estimation method.

Factors affecting somatic embryogenesis and transformation in modern plant breeding

Somatic embryogenesis and transformation systems are indispensable modern plant breeding components since they provide an alternative platform to develop control strategies against the plethora of pests and diseases affecting many agronomic crops. This review discusses some of the factors affecting somatic embryogenesis and transformation, highlights the advantages and limitations of these systems and explores these systems as breeding tools for the development of crops with improved agronomic traits. The regeneration of non-chimeric transgenic crops through somatic embryogenesis with introduced disease and pest-resistant genes for instance, would be of significant benefit to growers worldwide.

Regulatory responses to auditor independence dilemmas – who takes the stronger line?

A key part of corporate governance reforms in Australia, as represented by CLERP 9, addresses concerns over the audit function and the role of independent auditors in monitoring managers and providing useful information to stakeholders about the financial position of the company. In comparing the regulatory responses to auditor independence dilemmas, there have been claims that CLERP 9 is less ‘stringent’ than the reforms imposed by the Sarbanes Oxley Act in the US. This paper looks at three particular situations that have been the subject of recent reform to strengthen independence: the mandatory rotation of auditors, recruitment of former auditors as board members, and provision of non-audit services to clients. In each case, we compare the similarities and differences of the regulatory response between Australia and US, to distil the efficacy of the CLERP 9 approach.

Investigating the change in three dimensional deformity for idiopathic scoliosis using axially loaded MRI

Background: Adolescent idiopathic scoliosis is a complex three-dimensional deformity, involving a lateral deformity in the coronal plane and axial rotation of the vertebrae in the transverse plane. Gravitational loading plays an important biomechanical role in governing the coronal deformity, however, less is known about how they influence the axial deformity. This study investigates the change in three-dimensional deformity of a series of scoliosis patients due to compressive axial loading. Methods: Magnetic resonance imaging scans were obtained and coronal deformity (measured using the coronal Cobb angle) and axial rotations measured for a group of 18 scoliosis patients (Mean major Cobb angle was 43.4 o). Each patient was scanned in an unloaded and loaded condition while compressive loads equivalent to 50% body mass were applied using a custom developed compressive device. Findings: The mean increase in major Cobb angle due to compressive loading was 7.4 o (SD 3.5 o). The most axially rotated vertebra was observed at the apex of the structural curve and the largest average intravertebral rotations were observed toward the limits of the coronal deformity. A level-wise comparison showed no significant difference between the average loaded and unloaded vertebral axial rotations (intra-observer error = 2.56 o) or intravertebral rotations at each spinal level. Interpretation: This study suggests that the biomechanical effects of axial loading primarily influence the coronal deformity, with no significant change in vertebral axial rotation or intravertebral rotation observed between the unloaded and loaded condition. However, the magnitude of changes in vertebral rotation with compressive loading may have been too small to detect given the resolution of the current technique.

Is the iPhone a useful clinical tool to monitor spinal deformity patients?

The progression of spinal deformity is traditionally monitored on hard copy radiographs using the Cobb method with a protractor and pencil. The rotation of the spine and ribcage (rib hump) in scoliosis is measured with a hand-held inclinometer/Scoliometer. The iPhone and other smart phones, can accurately sense inclination, and can therefore be used to measure Cobb angles and rib hump angulation. The purpose of this study was to quantify the performance of the iPhone compared to the standard protractor (Cobb angles) and the Scoliometer (rib hump).

A comparative study of splint effectiveness in limiting forearm rotation

Study Design: Case Study Series.---------- Introduction: Restriction of forearm rotation may be required for effective management and rehabilitation of the upper limb after trauma.---------- Purpose of the Study: To compare the effectiveness of four splints in restricting forearm rotation.---------- Methods: Muenster, Sugartong, antipronation distal radioulnar joint (DRUJ), and standard wrist splints were fabricated for five healthy participants. Active range of motion (AROM) in forearm pronation and supination was measured with a goniometer for each splint, at the initial point of sensory feedback and during exertion of maximal force.---------- Results: Repeated-measures analysis of variance indicated significant differences between splints for all four AROM measures. Post hoc paired t-tests showed that the Sugartong splint was significantly more restrictive in pronation than the Muenster splint. The antipronation DRUJ splint provided significantly greater restriction in pronation than the standard wrist splint. No splints immobilized the forearm completely.---------- Conclusions: The Sugartong splint is recommended for maximal restriction in pronation, but individual patient characteristics require consideration in splint choice.