The Fleet Store : devising a public retail exhibition to promote creative, innovative and sustainable business models for emerging fashion designers

1.Description of the Work The Fleet Store was devised as a creative output to establish an exhibition linked to a fashion business model where emerging designers were encouraged to research new and innovative strategies for creating design-driven and commercial collections for a public consumer. This was a project that was devised to break down the perceptions of emerging fashion designers that designing commercial collections linked to a sustainable business model is a boring and unnecessary process. The focus was to demystify the business of fashion and to link its importance to a design-driven and public outcome that is more familiar to fashion designers. The criterion for participation was that all designers had to be registered as a business with the Australian Taxation Office. Designers were chosen from the Creative Enterprise Australia Fashion Business Incubator, the QUT fashion graduate alumni and current QUT fashion design and double degree (fashion and business) students with existing businesses. The project evolved from a series of collaborative workshops where designers were introduced to new and innovative creative industries’ business models and the processes, costings and timings involved to create a niche, sustainable business for a public exhibition of design-driven commercial collections. All designers initiated their own business infra-structure but were then introduced to the concept of collaboration for successful and profitable exhibition and business outcomes. Collaborative strategies such as crowd funding, crowd sourcing, peer to peer mentoring and manufacturing were all researched, and strategies for the establishment of the retail exhibition were all devised in a collaborative environment. All participants also took on roles outside their ‘designer’ background to create a retail exhibition that was creative but also had critical mass and aesthetic for the consumer. The Fleet Store ‘popped up’ for 2 weeks (10 days), in a heritage-listed building in an inner city location. Passers-by were important, but the main consumer was enlisted by the use of interest and investment from crowd sourcing, crowd funding, ethical marketing, corporate social responsibility projects and collaborative public relations and social media strategies. The research has furthered discussion on innovative strategies for emerging fashion designers to initiate and maintain sustainable businesses and suggests that collaboration combined with a design-driven and business focus can create a sustainable and economically viable retail exhibition. 2. Research Statement Research Background The research field involved developing a new ethical, design-driven, collaborative and sustainable model for fashion design practice and management. The research asked can a public, design-driven, collaborative retail exhibition create a platform for promoting creative, innovative and sustainable business models for emerging fashion designers. The methodology was primarily practice-led as all participants were designers in their own right and the project manager acted as a mentor and curator to guide the process and analyse the potential of the research question. The Fleet Store offers new knowledge in design practice and management; with the creation of a model where design outcomes and business models are inextricably linked to the success of the creative output. Key innovations include extending the commercialisation of emerging fashion businesses by creating a curated retail gallery for collaborative and sustainable strategies to support niche fashion designer labels. This has contributed to a broader conversation on how to nurture and sustain competitive Australian fashion designers/labels. Research Contribution and Significance The Fleet Store has contributed to a growing body of research into innovative and sustainable business models for niche fashion and creative industries’ practitioners. All participants have maintained their business infra-structure and many are currently growing their businesses, using the strategies tested for the Fleet Store. The exhibition space was visited by over 1,000 people and sales of $27,000 were made in 10 days of opening. (Follow up sales of $3,000 has also been reported.) Three of the designers were ‘discovered’ from the exhibition and have received substantial orders from high profile national buyers and retailers for next season delivery. Several participants have since collaborated to create other pop up retail environments and are now mentoring other emerging designers on the significance of a collaborative retail exhibition to consolidate niche business models for emerging fashion designers.

Thermal behavior of kaolinite–urea intercalation complex and molecular dynamics simulation for urea molecule orientation

The thermal behavior of kaolinite–urea intercalation complex was investigated by thermogravimetry–differential scanning calorimetry (TG–DSC), X-ray diffraction (XRD), and fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR). In addition, the interaction mode of urea molecules intercalated into the kaolinite gallery was studied by means of molecular dynamics simulation. Three main mass losses were observed at 136 °C, in the range of 210–270 °C, and at 500 °C in the TG–DSC curves, which were, respectively, attributed to (1) melting of the surface-adsorbed urea, (2) removal of the intercalated urea, and (3) dehydroxylation of the deintercalated kaolinite. The three DSC endothermic peaks at 218, 250, and 261 °C were related to the successive removals of intercalated urea with three different distribution structures. Based on the angle between the dipole moment vector of urea and the basal surface of kaolinite, the three urea models could be described as follows: (1) Type A, the dipole moment vector is nearly parallel to the basal surface of kaolinite; (2) Type B, the dipole moment vector points to the silica tetrahedron with the angle between it and the basal surface of kaolinite ranging from 20°to 40°; and (3) Type C, the dipole moment vector is nearly perpendicular to the basal surface of kaolinite. The three distribution structures of urea molecules were validated by the results of the molecular dynamics simulation. Furthermore, the thermal behavior of the kaolinite–urea intercalation complex investigated by TG–DSC was also supported by FTIR and XRD analyses.

How does enterprise social media help retail employees innovate?

An increasing number of organizations have installed enterprise social media (ESM) platforms to allow employees to collaborate, work independently, and to innovate more easily. While research has started to explain how such technologies can lead to improved collaboration and productivity, their role in assisting employees in innovation processes remains unclear. In our research-in-progress we examine the case of a global retail organization that adopted ESM for all employees with the view to foster employee-driven innovation. We report on our on-going data collection and analysis, in which we focus on the salient mechanisms and contingency factors why ESM under some conditions facilitates employee-driven innovation and why under some conditions it does not. We report on on-going data collection, data analysis strategies and emergent findings, and conclude with a brief outlook on our future research strategies.

Examining the role of wine brand love on brand loyalty: A multi-country comparison

This study develops and tests a model through a multi-country study that considers consumer wine knowledge and wine experience, wine brand trust and wine brand satisfaction as antecedents of wine brand love, and wine brand loyalty as a consequence of wine brand love. Data were collected in five wine-producing countries (Australia, Chile, France, Mexico and Portugal) with a final sample of 3462 completed surveys. Hypotheses were tested with structural equation modeling and the findings confirm the importance of brand love as both a mediator and direct influence on brand loyalty for wine consumers. Furthermore, brand satisfaction was positively and significantly related to brand love. In addition, wine experience, rather than wine knowledge, positively influenced brand trust and satisfaction. Finally, results also identify differences between countries thereby providing insights into how companies should focus their marketing strategies internationally.

Effects of layer orientation of CFRP strengthened steel hollow members

This paper reveals the effects of layer orientation on structural behaviour of three layers configured (LHL, HHL, LLH) CFRP strengthened circular hollow section (CHS) members subjected to bending. The beams were loaded to failure under four-point bending. The structural behaviour of the CFRP strengthened tubular steel beams with various layer orientations were presented in terms of failure load, stiffness, composite beam action and modes of failure. The LHL and LLH layers oriented strengthened beams perform slightly better than HHL layers oriented strengthened beams. The LHL and LLH layers oriented treated beams showed very similar structural behaviour.

Electronic games: Can they create value for the moderate drinking brand?

Purpose This paper aims to understand how experiential value can generate awareness, image, perceived quality and loyalty to the moderate drinking brand. Electronic games are increasingly used by social marketers in an attempt to support target audiences uptake of social behaviours. However, little is known of the value this creates for target audiences and its impact on the uptake of a social behaviour brand. Design/methodology/approach A survey of male adolescents (n = 137) was conducted to test proposed relationships between experiential value and consumer-based brand equity dimensions. The research tested the game “Don’t Turn a Night Out into a Nightmare” that was developed by the Australian Federal Government as part of a social marketing campaign. Data were analysed using linear regression and MANCOVA. Findings The findings indicate that there are significant relationships between consumer-based brand equity dimensions for the social behaviour brand of moderate drinking, indicating relevance of a commercial marketing theory for social marketing. Furthermore, findings show that different combinations of experiential value dimensions have an impact on different components of consumer-based brand equity. These findings indicate that when social marketers are developing electronic games, they must create different combinations of value in game play to achieve awareness, positive image, high perceived quality and, ultimately, loyalty to a behaviour. Practical implications Social marketers seeking to use electronic games to influence the uptake of behaviour brands such as moderate drinking must provide a more complete value package. Originality/value This paper is the first to examine how experiential value can influence the creation of brand equity for a social behaviour brand.

Destination brand performance measurement over time: Tracking consumer perceptions of a competitive set of destinations over a 10 year period

There has been a paucity of research published in relation to the temporal aspect of destination image change over time. Given increasing investments in destination branding, research is needed to enhance understanding of how to monitor destination brand performance, of which destination image is the core construct, over time. This article reports the results of four studies tracking brand performance of a competitive set of five destinations, between 2003 and 2012. Results indicate minimal changes in perceptions held of the five destinations of interest over the 10 years, supporting the assertion of Gartner (1986) and Gartner and Hunt (1987) that destination image change will only occur slowly over time. While undertaken in Australia, the research approach provides DMOs in other parts of the world with a practical tool for evaluating brand performance over time; in terms of measures of effectiveness of past marketing communications, and indicators of future performance.

Information-theoretic analysis of brain white matter fiber orientation distribution functions

We propose a new information-theoretic metric, the symmetric Kullback-Leibler divergence (sKL-divergence), to measure the difference between two water diffusivity profiles in high angular resolution diffusion imaging (HARDI). Water diffusivity profiles are modeled as probability density functions on the unit sphere, and the sKL-divergence is computed from a spherical harmonic series, which greatly reduces computational complexity. Adjustment of the orientation of diffusivity functions is essential when the image is being warped, so we propose a fast algorithm to determine the principal direction of diffusivity functions using principal component analysis (PCA). We compare sKL-divergence with other inner-product based cost functions using synthetic samples and real HARDI data, and show that the sKL-divergence is highly sensitive in detecting small differences between two diffusivity profiles and therefore shows promise for applications in the nonlinear registration and multisubject statistical analysis of HARDI data.

Integrating customer orientation, employee compensation and performance management: A conceptual framework

Compensation systems are an essential tool to link corporate goals such as customer orientation with individual and organisational performance. While some authors demonstrate the positive effects of incorporating nonfinancial measures into the compensation system empirically, companies have encountered problems after linking pay to customer satisfaction. We argue that reasons for this can be attributed to the measurement of customer satisfaction as well as to the missing link between customer satisfaction and customer retention and profitability in theses cases. Hence, there is a strong need for the development of an holistic reward and performance measurement model enabling an organisation to identify cause-and-effect relationships when linking rewards to nonfinancial performance measures. We present a conceptual framework of a success chain driven reward system that enables organisations to systematically derive a customer-oriented reward strategy. In the context of performance evaluation, we propose to rely on integrated and multidimensional measurement methods.

Conceptualizing and measuring brand relationship quality

Many consumer markets are now characterized by a high degree of market saturation and an increasing level of competition, in particular from retailer brands. Furthermore, consumers face an ever increasing level of product variety. For instance, about 30,000 new products in the fast moving consumer goods (FMCG) market have been launched in Germany in a single year representing about 600 products per week. The increasing number of consumer brands thus has led to a form of “brand inflation” in FMCG markets. In addition, the role of consumers in the marketplace has changed as well. Consumers are more price sensitive, they have higher expectations with regard to product quality and customer service, and they rely rather on word-of-mouth communication than on traditional advertising. In addition, it appears that consumers have become more critical with regard to the perception of brands. High levels of price competition have led to a decreasing level of brand awareness and increased switching intentions of brands. As a consequence, the role of customer loyalty has become an increasingly important topic for businesses in consumer markets.

The valley of the dolls: Brand protection and artistic parody

In the case of Mattel Inc v Walking Mountain Productions, the toy doll manufacturer Mattel sought to prohibit a Utah photographer called Thomas Forsythe from producing and selling a series of 78 photographs entitled "Food Chain Barbie". The work had strong social and political overtones. The artist said that he chose to parody Barbie in his photographs because he wanted to challenge the beauty myth and the objectification of women. He observed: "Barbie is the most enduring of those products that feed on the insecurities of our beauty and perfection-obsessed consumer culture." The company Mattel argued that the photographs infringed its copyrights, trade marks, and trade dress. It was concerned that the artistic works would erode the brand of Barbie by wrongfully sexualising its blonde paragon of womanhood. However, Lew J of the Central District Court of California granted summary judgment for the photographer. The Court of Appeals upheld this verdict. Pregerson J held that the use of the manufacturer's copyrighted doll in parodic photographs constituted a fair use of copyright works. His Honour held that the use of manufacturer's "Barbie" mark and trade dress did not amount to trade mark infringement or dilution. This article provides a case commentary upon the Court of Appeals decision in Mattel Inc v Walking Mountain Productions, and its wider ramifications for the treatment of artistic parody under copyright law and trade mark law. It contends that the decision highlights the need for reform in Australian jurisprudence and legislation in respect of artistic parody.

No logo: Brand bullies, trade mark law, and the Trans-Pacific Partnership

The Trans-Pacific Partnership is a sweeping trade agreement, spanning the Pacific Rim, and covering an array of topics, including intellectual property. There has been much analysis of the recently leaked intellectual property chapter of the Trans-Pacific Partnership by WikiLeaks. Julian Assange, WikiLeaks’ Editor-in-Chief, observed “The selective secrecy surrounding the TPP negotiations, which has let in a few cashed-up megacorps but excluded everyone else, reveals a telling fear of public scrutiny. By publishing this text we allow the public to engage in issues that will have such a fundamental impact on their lives.” Critical attention has focused upon the lack of transparency surrounding the agreement, copyright law and the digital economy; patent law, pharmaceutical drugs, and data protection; and the criminal procedures and penalties for trade secrets. The topic of trade mark law and related rights, such as internet domain names and geographical indications, deserves greater analysis.

Nanofiber orientation and surface functionalization modulate human mesenchymal stem cell behavior in vitro

Electrospun nanofiber meshes have emerged as a new generation of scaffold membranes possessing a number of features suitable for tissue regeneration. One of these features is the flexibility to modify their structure and composition to orchestrate specific cellular responses. In this study, we investigated the effects of nanofiber orientation and surface functionalization on human mesenchymal stem cell (hMSC) migration and osteogenic differentiation. We used an in vitro model to examine hMSC migration into a cell-free zone on nanofiber meshes and mitomycin C treatment to assess the contribution of proliferation to the observed migration. Poly (ɛ-caprolactone) meshes with oriented topography were created by electrospinning aligned nanofibers on a rotating mandrel, while randomly oriented controls were collected on a stationary collector. Both aligned and random meshes were coated with a triple-helical, type I collagen-mimetic peptide, containing the glycine-phenylalanine-hydroxyproline-glycine-glutamate-arginine (GFOGER) motif. Our results indicate that nanofiber GFOGER peptide functionalization and orientation modulate cellular behavior, individually, and in combination. GFOGER significantly enhanced the migration, proliferation, and osteogenic differentiation of hMSCs on nanofiber meshes. Aligned nanofiber meshes displayed increased cell migration along the direction of fiber orientation compared to random meshes; however, fiber alignment did not influence osteogenic differentiation. Compared to each other, GFOGER coating resulted in a higher proliferation-driven cell migration, whereas fiber orientation appeared to generate a larger direct migratory effect. This study demonstrates that peptide surface modification and topographical cues associated with fiber alignment can be used to direct cellular behavior on nanofiber mesh scaffolds, which may be exploited for tissue regeneration.

Controlling routine front line service workers: an Australian retail supermarket case

Food retail is known for its use of flexible labour and for the centralisation of functions at head office, resulting in a reduction of managerial autonomy at store level. This article employs a typology of controls developed from labour process scholarship to explore how retail managers negotiate the control of their predominantly part-time workforce. Using an Australian supermarket chain as a case, and mixed methods, the article demonstrates that supermarkets use a multiplicity of forms of control across their workforce. For front line service workers, the article identifies a new configuration of controls which intersects with employment status and acts differentially for checkout operators on different employment contracts.

Single 2×1 domain orientation on Si(001) surfaces using aperiodic Bi line arrays

Studies of Bi heteroepitaxy on Si(001) have shown that lines grow to lengths of up to 500nm if the substrate is heated to above the Bi desorption temperature (500°C) during or after Bi deposition. Unlike many other nanoline systems, the lines formed by this nonequilibrium growth process have no detectable width dispersion. Although much attention has been given to the atomic geometery of the line, in this paper, we focus on how the lines can be used to create a majority 2×1 domain orientation. It is demonstrated that the Bi lines can be used to produce a single-domain orientation on Si(001) if the lines are grown on Si(001) surfaces with a regular distribution of single height steps. This is a compelling example of how a nanoscale motif can be used to modify mesoscopic surface structure on Si(001).