Social clothing experiments

Social Clothing Experiments was a large-scale outdoor installation staged for the opening of the Pacific Standard Time exhibition at the Getty Center in 2011. It was part of a ten day performance festival.Each body-pillow was made out of second-hand tie-dyed t-shirts that were patch-worked together in various formations. The public was welcomed to move, play and rest with the installation.It explores Wyman's interest in art's role in social engagement and participation.

Adverse weather effects on bus ridership

This study focuses on weather effects on daily bus ridership in Brisbane, given bus’ dominance in this city. The weather pattern of Brisbane varies by season according to its sub-tropical climate characteristics. Bus is prone to inclement weather condition as it shares the road system with general traffic. Moreover, bus stops generally offer less or sometimes no protection from adverse weather. Hence, adverse weather conditions such as rain are conjectured to directly impact on daily travel behaviour patterns. There has been limited Australian research on the impact of weather on daily transit ridership. This study investigates the relationship between rainy day and daily bus ridership for the period of 2010 to 2012. Overall, rainfall affects negatively with varying impacts on different transit groups. However, this analysis confirmed a positive relationship between consecutive rainy days (rain continuing for 3 or more days). A possible explanation could be that people may switch their transport mode to bus to avoid high traffic congestion and higher accident potentiality on rainy days. Also, Brisbane’s segregated busway (BRT) corridor works favourably towards this mode choice. Our study findings enhance the fundamental understanding of traveller behaviour, particularly mode choice behaviour under adverse weather conditions.

Regulating supply-chains to address the occupational health and safety problems associated with precarious employment: The case of home-based clothing workers in Australia

Over the past 20 years the labour market, workforce and work organisation of most if not all industrialised countries have been significantly refashioned by the increased use of more flexible work arrangements, variously labelled as precarious employment or contingent work. There is now a substantial and growing body of international evidence that many of these arrangements are associated with a significant deterioration in occupational health and safety (OHS), using a range of measures such as injury rates, disease, hazard exposures and work-related stress. Moreover, there is an emerging body of evidence that these arrangements pose particular problems for conventional regulatory regimes. Recognition of these problems has aroused the concern of policy makers - especially in Europe, North America and Australia - and a number of responses have been adopted in terms of modifying legislation, producing new guidance material and codes of practice and revised enforcement practices. This article describes one such in itiative in Australia with regard to home-based clothing workers. The regulatory strategy developed in one Australian jurisdiction (and now being ‘exported’ into others) seeks to counter this process via contractual tracking mechanisms to follow the work, tie in liability and shift overarching legal responsibility to the top of the supply chain. The process also entails the integration of minimum standards relating to wages, hours and working conditions; OHS and access to workers’ compensation. While home-based clothing manufacture represents a very old type of ‘flexible’ work arrangement, it is one that regulators have found especially difficult to address. Further, the elaborate multi-tiered subcont racting and diffuse work locations found in this industry are also characteristic of newer forms of contingent work in other industries (such as some telework) and the regulatory challenges they pose (such as the tendency of elaborate supply chains to attenuate and fracture statutory responsibilities, at least in terms of the attitudes and behaviour of those involved).

Clothing Cultures, Volume 3, Issue 3

Tiziana Ferrero-Regis, guest editor of Vol. 1, issue 3, of Intellect journal Clothing Cultures. "Welcome to the third issue of Clothing Cultures. We are honoured to have served as the guest editors for this issue. The authors in this issue explore three intersecting themes in using various methods: identity, cross-cultural encounters and everyday practices related to designing, branding and wearing clothing. These themes are at the core of fashion and dress: as an everyday individual and social project, and as a system in which people and objects (clothing) globally circulate. The performance of identity (Goffman 1979; Butler 1990), social practices and the movement of people and commodities (Appadurai 1986, 1996) create and transfer cultural meanings..."

Experimental study of load-bearing cold-formed steel walls exposed to realistic design fires

This paper presents the details of full scale fire tests of LSF wall panels conducted using realistic fire time-temperature curves. Tests included eight LSF wall specimens of various configurations exposed to both parametric design and natural fire curves. Details of the fire test set-up, test procedure and the results including the measured time-temperature and deformation curves of LSF wall panels are presented along with wall stud failure modes and times. This paper also compares the structural and thermal behavioural characteristics of LSF wall studs with those based on the standard time-temperature curve. Finally, the stud failure times and temperatures are summarized for both standard and realistic design fire curves. This study provides the necessary test data to validate the numerical models of LSF wall panels and to undertake a detailed study into the structural and thermal performance of LSF wall panels exposed to realistic design fire curves.

Development of realistic design fire time-temperature curves for the testing of cold-formed steel wall system

Fire resistance rating of light gauge steel frame (LSF) wall systems is obtained from fire tests based on the standard fire time-temperature curve. However, fire severity has increased in modern buildings due to higher fuel loads as a result of modern furniture and light weight constructions that make use of thermoplastics materials, synthetic foams and fabrics. Some of these materials are high in calorific values and increase both the spread of fire growth and heat release rate, thus increasing the fire severity beyond that of the standard fire curve. Further, the standard fire curve does not include a decay phase that is present in natural fires. Despite the increasing usage of LSF walls, their behaviour in real building fires is not fully understood. This paper presents the details of a research study aimed at developing realistic design fire curves for use in the fire tests of LSF walls. It includes a review of the characteristics of building fires, previously developed fire time-temperature curves, computer models and available parametric equations. The paper highlights that real building fire time-temperature curves depend on the fuel load representing the combustible building contents, ventilation openings and thermal properties of wall lining materials, and provides suitable values of many required parameters including fuel loads in residential buildings. Finally, realistic design fire time-temperature curves simulating the fire conditions in modern residential buildings are proposed for the testing of LSF walls.

Cold water immersion enhances recovery of submaximal muscle function after resistance exercise

We investigated the effect of cold water immersion (CWI) on the recovery of muscle function and physiological responses following high-intensity resistance exercise. Using a randomized, cross-over design, 10 physically active men performed high-intensity resistance exercise, followed by one of two recovery interventions: 10 min of cold water immersion at 10°C, or 10 min active recovery (low-intensity cycling). After the recovery interventions, maximal muscle function was assessed after 2 h and 4 h by measuring jump height and isometric squat strength. Submaximal muscle function was assessed after 6 h by measuring the average load lifted during six sets of 10 squats at 80% 1RM. Intramuscular temperature (1 cm) was also recorded, and venous blood samples were analyzed for markers of metabolism, vasoconstriction and muscle damage. CWI did not enhance recovery of maximal muscle function. However, during the final three sets of the submaximal muscle function test, the participants lifted a greater load (p<0.05; 38%; Cohen’s d 1.3) following CWI compared with active recovery. During CWI, muscle temperature decreased 6°C below post-exercise values, and remained below pre-exercise values for another 35 min. Venous blood O2 saturation decreased below pre-exercise values for 1.5 h after CWI. Serum endothelin-1 concentration did not change after CWI, whereas it decreased after active recovery. Plasma myoglobin concentration was lower, whereas plasma interleukin-6 concentration was higher after CWI compared with active recovery. These results suggest that cold water immersion after resistance exercise allow athletes to complete more work during subsequent training sessions, which could enhance long-term training adaptations.

Grateful fateful sunshine rain

Grateful Fateful Sunshine Rain is a permanent public artwork commissioned by Aria Property Group through a competitive process for the Austin apartment building in South Brisbane. Artist Statement: Residents of Brisbane have a complex relationship with weather. As the capital of the Sunshine State, weather is an integral part of the city’s cultural identity. Weather deeply affects the mood of the city – from the excitement of scantily clad partygoers on balmy December evenings and late February’s lethargy, to the deepening anxiety that emerges after 100 days of rain (or more commonly, 100 days without rain). With a brief nod to the city’s – now decommissioned – iconic MCL weather beacon, Grateful Fateful Sunshine Rain taps into this aspect of Brisbane’s psyche with poetic, illuminated visualisations of real-time weather forecasts issued by the Bureau of Meteorology. Each evening, the artwork downloads tomorrow’s forecast from the Bureau of Meteorology website. Data including, current local temperature, humidity, wind speed & direction, precipitation (rain, hail etc), are used to generate a lighting display that conveys how tomorrow will feel. The artwork’s background colour indicates the expected temperature – from cold blues through mild pastel pinks and blues to bright hot oranges and reds. White fluffy clouds roll across the artwork if cloud is predicted. The density of these clouds indicates the level of cover whilst movement indicates expected wind speed and direction. If rain is predicted, sparkles of white light will appear on top of whichever background colour is chosen for the next day’s temperature. Sparkles appear constantly before wet, drizzly days, and intermittently if scattered showers are predicted. Intermittent, but more intense sparkles appear before rain storms or thunderstorms. Research Contribution: The work has made contributions to the field in the way it rethinks approaches to the conceptualization, design and realization of illuminated urban media. This has led to new theorizations of urban media, which consider light and illumination can be used to convey meaningful data. The research has produced new methods for controlling illumination systems using tools and techniques typically employed in computation arts. It has also develop methods and processes for the design and production of illuminated urban media architectures that are connected to real time data sources, and do which not follow the assumed logics of screen based media and displays.

Social audits and global clothing supply chains : some observations

This study provides some preliminary insight in relation to the use of social audits by the global clothing and retail companies that source garment products from developing nations. In the era of globalisation, companies based in developed nations have transferred their production locations to many parts of the developing nations. At the same time, there are widespread global stakeholder concerns about the use of child labour, inadequate health and safety standards and poor working conditions at many of these production locations. Social audits appear to be a tool used by companies to monitor working conditions and to ensure that manufacturing takes place in a humane working environment. The study finds that companies use social auditing in order to maintain their legitimacy within the wider community.

Inside the ‘Hurt Locker’: The combined effects of explosive ordnance disposal and chemical protective clothing on physiological tolerance time in extreme environments

Background Explosive ordnance disposal (EOD) technicians are often required to wear specialised clothing combinations that not only protect against the risk of explosion but also potential chemical contamination. This heavy (>35kg) and encapsulating ensemble is likely to increase physiological strain by increasing metabolic heat production and impairing heat dissipation. This study investigated the physiological tolerance times of two different chemical protective undergarments, commonly worn with EOD personal protective clothing, in a range of simulated environmental extremes and work intensities Methods Seven males performed eighteen trials wearing two ensembles. The trials involved walking on a treadmill at 2.5, 4 and 5.5 km.h-1 at each of the following environmental conditions, 21, 30 and 37°C wet bulb globe temperature (WBGT). The trials were ceased if the participants’ core temperature reached 39°C, if heart rate exceeded 90% of maximum, if walking time reached 60 minutes or due to volitional fatigue. Results Physiological tolerance times ranged from 8 to 60 min and the duration (mean difference: 2.78 min, P>0.05) were similar in both ensembles. A significant effect for environment (21>30>37°C WBGT, P<0.05) and work intensity (2.5>4>5.5 km.h-1, P< 0.05) was observed in tolerance time. The majority of trials across both ensembles (101/126; 80.1%) were terminated due to participants achieving a heart rate equivalent to greater than 90% of their maximum. Conclusions Physiological tolerance times wearing these two chemical protective undergarments, worn underneath EOD personal protective clothing, were similar and predominantly limited by cardiovascular strain.

Weather variability and influenza A (H7N9) transmission in Shanghai, China: A Bayesian spatial analysis

Abstract Background A novel avian influenza A (H7N9) virus was first found in humans in Shanghai, and infected over 433 patients in China. To date, very little is known about the spatiotemporal variability or environmental drivers of the risk of H7N9 infection. This study explored the spatial and temporal variation of H7N9 infection and assessed the effects of temperature and rainfall on H7N9 incidence. Methods A Bayesian spatial conditional autoregressive (CAR) model was used to assess the spatiotemporal distribution of the risk of H7N9 infection in Shanghai, by district and fortnight for the period 19th February–14th April 2013. Data on daily laboratory-confirmed H7N9 cases, and weather variability including temperature (°C) and rainfall (mm) were obtained from the Chinese Information System for Diseases Control and Prevention and Chinese Meteorological Data Sharing Service System, respectively, and aggregated by fortnight. Results High spatial variations in the H7N9 risk were mainly observed in the east and centre of Shanghai municipality. H7N9 incidence rate was significantly associated with fortnightly mean temperature (Relative Risk (RR): 1.54; 95% credible interval (CI): 1.22–1.94) and fortnightly mean rainfall (RR: 2.86; 95% CI: 1.47–5.56). Conclusion There was a substantial variation in the spatiotemporal distribution of H7N9 infection across different districts in Shanghai. Optimal temperature and rainfall may be one of the driving forces for H7N9.

Experimental studies of cold-formed steel hollow section columns at elevated temperatures

This paper reports the details of an experimental study of cold-formed steel hollow section columns at ambient and elevated temperatures. In this study the global buckling behaviour of cold-formed Square Hollow Section (SHS) slender columns under axial compression was investigated at various uniform elevated temperatures up to 700℃. The results of these column tests are reported in this paper, which include the buckling/failure modes at elevated temperatures, and ultimate load versus temperature curves. Finite element models of tested columns were also developed and their behaviour and ultimate capacities at ambient and elevated temperatures were studied. Fire design rules given in European and American standards including the Direct Strength Method (DSM) based design rules were used to predict the ultimate capacities of tested columns at elevated temperatures. Elevated temperature mechanical properties and stress-strain models given in European steel design standards and past researches were used with design rules and finite element models to investigate their effects on SHS column capacities. Comparisons of column capacities from tests and finite element analyses with those predicted by current design rules were used to determine the accuracy of currently available column design rules in predicting the capacities of SHS columns at elevated temperatures and the need to use appropriate elevated temperature material stress-strain models. This paper presents the important findings derived from the comparisons of these column capacities.

Can perceptual indices estimate physiological strain across a range of environments and metabolic workloads when wearing explosive ordnance disposal and chemical protective clothing?

Objective Explosive ordnance disposal (EOD) often requires technicians to wear multiple protective garments in challenging environmental conditions. The accumulative effect of increased metabolic cost coupled with decreased heat dissipation associated with these garments predisposes technicians to high levels of physiological strain. It has been proposed that a perceptual strain index (PeSI) using subjective ratings of thermal sensation and perceived exertion as surrogate measures of core body temperature and heart rate, may provide an accurate estimation of physiological strain. Therefore, this study aimed to determine if the PeSI could estimate the physiological strain index (PSI) across a range of metabolic workloads and environments while wearing heavy EOD and chemical protective clothing. Methods Eleven healthy males wore an EOD and chemical protective ensemble while walking on a treadmill at 2.5, 4 and 5.5 km·h− 1 at 1% grade in environmental conditions equivalent to wet bulb globe temperature (WBGT) 21, 30 and 37 °C. WBGT conditions were randomly presented and a maximum of three randomised treadmill walking trials were completed in a single testing day. Trials were ceased at a maximum of 60-min or until the attainment of termination criteria. A Pearson's correlation coefficient, mixed linear model, absolute agreement and receiver operating characteristic (ROC) curves were used to determine the relationship between the PeSI and PSI. Results A significant moderate relationship between the PeSI and the PSI was observed [r = 0.77; p < 0.001; mean difference = 0.8 ± 1.1 a.u. (modified 95% limits of agreement − 1.3 to 3.0)]. The ROC curves indicated that the PeSI had a good predictive power when used with two, single-threshold cut-offs to differentiate between low and high levels of physiological strain (area under curve: PSI three cut-off = 0.936 and seven cut-off = 0.841). Conclusions These findings support the use of the PeSI for monitoring physiological strain while wearing EOD and chemical protective clothing. However, future research is needed to confirm the validity of the PeSI for active EOD technicians operating in the field.

Web crippling tests of cold-formed steel channels under two flange load cases

Cold-formed steel members have many advantages over hot-rolled steel members. However, they are susceptible to various buckling modes at stresses below the yield stress of the member because of their relatively high width-to-thickness ratio. Web crippling is a form of localized failure mode that can occur when the members are subjected to transverse high concentrated loadings and/or reactions. The four common loading conditions are the end-one-flange (EOF), interior-one-flange (IOF), end-two-flange (ETF) and interior-two-flange (ITF) loadings. Recently a test method has been proposed by AISI to obtain the web crippling capacities under these four loading conditions. Using this test method 42 tests were conducted in this research to investigate the web crippling behaviour and strengths of unlipped channels with stocky webs under ETF and ITF cases. DuraGal sections having a nominal yield stress of 450 MPa were tested with different web slenderness and bearing lengths. The flanges of these channel sections were not fastened to the supports. In this research the suitability of the currently available design rules for unlipped channels subject to web crippling was investigated, and suitable modifications were proposed where necessary. In addition to this, a new design rule was proposed based on the direct strength method to predict the web crippling capacities of tested beams. This paper presents the details of this experimental study and the results.