Neulemallien muodikkuus : Näkyvätkö kansainväliset muotitrendit suomalaisten käsityölehtien neulemalleissa?

The aim of this work was to study, whether international fashion trends show in knit designs in Finnish craft magazines and how trends are modified. Women s knitted clothes and accessories in autumn winter season 2005 2006 were analyzed. Future research, trends, fashion, designing and knitting provides theoretical basis for this study. The trend material of this study came from Carlin Women s knitwear winter 2005 2006, which is fashion forecast for Women s knitwear. In addition to the trend book, I selected two international fashion magazines to reinforce this study. Fashion magazines were L´Officiel, 1000 models, Milan New York winter 05/06, No 52, April 2005 and Collezioni Donna, Prêt-à-porter autumn-winter 2005 2006, No 107. Finnish craft magazines in this study were MODA s issues 4/2005, 5/2005, 6/2005 and Novita s issues autumn 2005, winter 2005 and Suuri Käsityölehti s issues 8/2005, 9/2005, 10/2005. For the base of the analyze I took themes from the trend book. From fashion magazines I searched knitwear designs and these designs were sorted out by themes of trend book. To this trend and fashion material I compared knit designs from craft magazines. I analyzed how fashion trends show in knit designs and how they are modified. I also studied what features of trends were shown and which did not appear in knit designs of the craft magazines. For analyzing trend pictures and knit designs in craft magazines I applied qualitative content analysis and image analysis. According to the results of this research, effects of trend can be recognized in knit designs of craft maga-zines, although the fashion trends have been applied very discreetly. Knit designs were very similar re-gardless of magazine. The craft magazine data included approximately as many designs from Novita and MODA. In Suuri Käsityölehti provided only fifth of the designs data. There were also designs in MODA and Suuri Käsityölehti, which were made of Novita s yarns. This research material includes yarns of 15 different yarn manufacturers. Although half of all knit designs were knitted from Novita s yarn. There were 10 different yarns from Novita. Nevertheless Novita s yarn called Aino was the most popular. Finnish craft magazines have not respond to popularity of knitting. Magazines do not provide any novelty designs for knitters. Knit designs in Finnish craft magazines are usually practical basic designs without any innovativeness.

Understanding the organic chain : The framework of the interaction between the actors in organic chains in relation to ecological modernisation of food production

The sustainability of food production has increasingly attracted the attention of consumers, farmers, food and retailing companies, and politicians. One manifestation of such attention is the growing interest in organic foods. Organic agriculture has the potential to enhance the ecological modernisation of food production by implementing the organic method as a preventative innovation that simultaneously produces environmental and economic benefits. However, in addition to the challenges to organic farming, the small market share of organic products in many countries today and Finland in particular risks undermining the achievement of such benefits. The problems identified as hindrances to the increased consumption of organic food are the poor availability, limited variety and high prices of organic products, the complicated buying decisions and the difficulties in delivering the intangible value of organic foods. Small volumes and sporadic markets, high costs, lack of market information, as well as poor supply reliability are obstacles to increasing the volume of organic production and processing. These problems shift the focus from a single actor to the entire supply chain and require solutions that involve more interaction among the actors within the organic chain. As an entity, the organic food chain has received very little scholarly attention. Researchers have mainly approached the organic chain from the perspective of a single actor, or they have described its structure rather than the interaction between the actors. Consequently, interaction among the primary actors in organic chains, i.e. farmers, manufacturers, retailers and consumers, has largely gone unexamined. The purpose of this study is to shed light on the interaction of the primary actors within a whole organic chain in relation to the ecological modernisation of food production. This information is organised into a conceptual framework to help illuminate this complex field. This thesis integrates the theories and concepts of three approaches: food system studies, supply chain management and ecological modernisation. Through a case study, a conceptual system framework will be developed and applied to a real life-situation. The thesis is supported by research published in four articles. All examine the same organic chains through case studies, but each approaches the problem from a different, complementary perspective. The findings indicated that regardless of the coherent values emphasising responsibility, the organic chains were loosely integrated to operate as a system. The focus was on product flow, leaving other aspects of value creation largely aside. Communication with consumers was rare, and none of the actors had taken a leading role in enhancing the market for organic products. Such a situation presents unsuitable conditions for ecological modernisation of food production through organic food and calls for contributions from stakeholders other than those directly involved in the product chain. The findings inspired a revision of the original conceptual framework. The revised framework, the three-layer framework , distinguishes the different layers of interaction. By gradually enlarging the chain orientation the different but interrelated layers become visible. A framework is thus provided for further research and for understanding practical implications of the performance of organic food chains. The revised framework provides both an ideal model for organic chains in relation to ecological modernisation and demonstrates a situation consistent with the empirical evidence.

Consumers and the conceptual and practical appropriation of functional foods

Taking the appropriation of objects as a theoretical starting point, this study makes a distinction between a conceptual and practical level of adopting new objects and products in everyday life. The study applies the concept of appropriation in social food research and examines consumers appropriation of functional foods, i.e., foods developed to improve health and well-being or reduce the risk of disease beyond the usual nutritional effects of foods. The study uses the concept of appropriation to understand the adoption and the process of making functional foods our own . First, the study focuses on the conceptual appropriation by analysing consumers interpretations and opinions on functional foods. Second, it analyses the use of functional foods and examines the role of sociodemographic and food- and health-related background factors in the use of functional foods. Both quantitative and qualitative data were used in the study. Altogether 1210 Finns representative of the population took part in a survey carried out in 2002 as computer-assisted telephone interviews (CATI). The survey examined the acceptability and use of functional foods in Finland. In 2004, eight focus group discussions were organised for 45 users and non-users of cholesterol-lowering spreads. The qualitative study focused on consumers interpretative perspectives on healthy eating and functional foods. The findings are reported in four original articles and a summary article. The results show that the appropriation of functional foods is a multifaceted phenomenon. The conceptual appropriation is related to consumers interpretations of functional foods in the context of healthy foods and healthy eating; their trust in the products, their manufacturers, research and control; and the relationship of functional foods and the ideal of natural foods. The analysis of the practical appropriation of four different types of foods marketed as functional showed that there are sociodemographic differences between users and non-users of the products, but more importantly, the differences are related to consumers food- and health-related views and practices. Consumers ways of appropriating functional foods in the conceptual and practical sense take shape in a complex web of ideas and everyday practices concerning food, health and eating as a whole. The results also indicate that the conceptual and practical appropriation are not necessarily uniform or coherent processes. Consumers interpret healthy eating and functional foods from a variety of perspectives and there is a multiplicity of rationales of using functional foods. Appropriation embraces many opposing dimensions simultaneously: good experiences and doubts, approval and criticism, expectations and things taken for granted.

Quality of ALICE SSD modules revealed by electrical tests

ALICE (A Large Ion Collider Experiment) is an experiment at CERN (European Organization for Nuclear Research), where a heavy-ion detector is dedicated to exploit the unique physics potential of nucleus-nucleus interactions at LHC (Large Hadron Collider) energies. In a part of that project, 716 so-called type V4 modules were assembles in Detector Laboratory of Helsinki Institute of Physics during the years 2004 - 2006. Altogether over a million detector strips has made this project the most massive particle detector project in the science history of Finland. One ALICE SSD module consists of a double-sided silicon sensor, two hybrids containing 12 HAL25 front end readout chips and some passive components, such has resistors and capacitors. The components are connected together by TAB (Tape Automated Bonding) microcables. The components of the modules were tested in every assembly phase with comparable electrical tests to ensure the reliable functioning of the detectors and to plot the possible problems. The components were accepted or rejected by the limits confirmed by ALICE collaboration. This study is concentrating on the test results of framed chips, hybrids and modules. The total yield of the framed chips is 90.8%, hybrids 96.1% and modules 86.2%. The individual test results have been investigated in the light of the known error sources that appeared during the project. After solving the problems appearing during the learning-curve of the project, the material problems, such as defected chip cables and sensors, seemed to induce the most of the assembly rejections. The problems were typically seen in tests as too many individual channel failures. Instead, the bonding failures rarely caused the rejections of any component. One sensor type among three different sensor manufacturers has proven to have lower quality than the others. The sensors of this manufacturer are very noisy and their depletion voltage are usually outside of the specification given to the manufacturers. Reaching 95% assembling yield during the module production demonstrates that the assembly process has been highly successful.

Tablettien soveltuvuus annosjakeluun

Koneellinen annosjakelu on kasvava lääkehuollon osa-alue, jossa lääkkeet pakataan koneellisesti pieniin annoskertakohtaisiin pusseihin kahden viikon erissä. Aikaisemmin lääkevalmisteiden soveltuvuutta koneelliseen annosjakeluun ei ole systemaattisesti tutkittu. Tutkimus tehtiin yhteistyössä Espoonlahden apteekin annosjakeluyksikön kanssa ja sen tavoitteena oli määrittää annosjakeluprosessin kannalta optimaaliset ominaisuudet annosjaeltavalle tabletille rikkoutumisten ja siirtymien vähentämiseksi. Rikkoutuminen on lääkevalmisteen murentumista, puolittumista tai muuta rikkoutumista annosjakelun aikana. Siirtymä on lääkevalmisteen jakelu väärään annospussiin. Prosentuaalisesti rikkoutumisia ja siirtymiä on jakelumäärästä hyvin vähän, mutta määrällisesti paljon ja koko ajan enemmän koneellisen annosjakelun yleistyessä. Rikkoutumiset ja siirtymät aiheuttavat paljon lisätyötä pussien korjaamisen takia, joten niiden määrää on pyrittävä vähentämään. Lisäksi tavoitteena oli selvittää lääkkeiden valmistajilta kysyttävissä olevat asiat lääkevalmisteiden ominaisuuksista ja säilyvyydestä, jotta voitaisiin päätellä valmisteen soveltuvuus koneelliseen annosjakeluun kirjallisen tiedon perusteella. Tutkimuksen tulosten perusteella rikkoutumisten ja siirtymien vähentämiseksi optimaalinen tablettivalmiste annosjakeluun on pienehkö tai keskisuuri, päällystetty, luja ja jakouurteeton ja optimaalinen ilman suhteellinen kosteustaso annosjakeluyksikön tuotantotiloissa olisi noin 30 – 40 %. Lääkkeiden valmistajilta kysyttäviä seikkoja ovat koon, päällysteen, murtolujuuden ja jakouurteen lisäksi valmisteen säilyvyys alkuperäispakkauksen ulkopuolella sekä valmisteen valo-, lämpö- ja kosteusherkkyys. Rikkoutumisten ja siirtymien lisäksi tutkittiin myös kosteusherkän asetyylisalisyylihappovalmisteen (Disperin 100 mg) säilyvyyttä 25 °C ja 60 % RH olosuhteissa, koska tuotantotilojen ilman kosteustasoa ei ole säädelty. Säilyvyystutkimuksen kesto oli neljä viikkoa. Se on riittävä, koska se on enimmäisaika, jonka tabletit ovat annosjakeluprosessin yhteydessä pois alkuperäispakkauksestaan ennen käyttöä. Tabletteja säilytettiin avoimessa alkuperäispakkauksessa (purkki), suljetussa alkuperäispakkauksessa, annosjakelukoneen kasetissa ja kahdessa erilaisessa annospussissa (uusi ja käytössä oleva materiaali). Tulosten mukaan annosjakelukoneen kasetti suojaa kosteudelta yhtä huonosti kuin avoin purkki. Uusi pussimateriaali sen sijaan suojaa kosteudelta paremmin kuin tällä hetkellä käytössä oleva materiaali. Raman -spektroskopiamittausten perusteella asetyylisalisyylihappotableteissa ei ehdi neljän viikon seurannan aikana tapahtua asetyylisalisyylihapon hajoamista salisyylihapoksi. Kosteus heikentää tablettien murtolujuutta, mikä saattaa aiheuttaa enemmän rikkoutumisia. Kosteustaso olisi hyvä olla säädettävissä vakioksi tuotantotiloissa tai purkaa tabletit kasetteihin mahdollisimman lähellä jakelua rikkoutumisten ehkäisemiseksi, etenkin ilman kosteustason ollessa korkea. Lisäksi tutkittiin lääkevalmisteen lämpöherkkyyttä koska annosjakelukoneen saumauslaite altistaa annospussit noin 75 °C lämmölle, jos annosjakelukone pysäytetään kesken työn. Tutkimus tehtiin XRPD:llä, jolla voidaan säätää näytteen lämpötilaa. Lämpöherkkyystutkimusten perusteella 75 °C lämpö ei ehdi tunnin aikana aiheuttaa muutoksia karbamatsepiinitabletissa (Neurotol 200 mg). Tuloksista selvisi, että tutkitun valmisteen sisältämä karbamatsepiini ei kuitenkaan ole lämpöherkin muoto, joten muita lämpöherkkiä lääkevalmisteita tulisi tutkia lisätiedon saamiseksi lämmön vaikutuksista.

Service Productivity: Toward a Conceptualisation of the Transformation of inputs

The productivity of a process is related to how effectively input resources are transformed into value for customers. For the needs of manufacturers of physical products there are widely used productivity concepts and measurements instruments. However, in service processes the underlying assumptions of these concepts and models do not hold. For example, manufacturing-based productivity models assume that an altered configuration of input resources in the production process does not lead to quality changes in outputs (the constant-quality assumption). However, in a service context changes in the production resources and productions systems do affect the perceived quality of services. Therefore, using manufacturing-oriented productivity models in service contexts are likely to give managers wrong directions for action. Research into the productivity of services is still scarce, because of the lack of viable models. The purpose of the present article is to analyse the requirements for the development of a productivity concept for service operations. Based on the analysis, a service productivity model is developed. According to this model, service productivity is a function of 1) how effectively input resources into the service (production) process are transformed to outputs in the form of services (internal or cost efficiency), 2) how well the quality of the service process and its outcome is perceived (external or revenue efficiency), and 3) how effectively the capacity of the service process is utilised (capacity efficiency). In addition, directions for developing measurement models for service productivity are discussed.

Late-industrial sawmill customers.

The methods of secondary wood processing are assumed to evolve over time and to affect the requirements set for the wood material and its suppliers. The study aimed at analysing the industrial operating modes applied by joinery and furniture manufacturers as sawnwood users. Industrial operating mode was defined as a pattern of important decisions and actions taken by a company which describes the company's level of adjustment in the late-industrial transition. A non-probabilistic sample of 127 companies was interviewed, including companies from Denmark, Germany, the Netherlands, and Finland. Fifty-two of the firms were furniture manufacturers and the other 75 were producing windows and doors. Variables related to business philosophy, production operations, and supplier choice criteria were measured and used as a basis for a customer typology; variables related to wood usage and perceived sawmill performance were measured to be used to profile the customer types. Factor analysis was used to determine the latent dimensions of industrial operating mode. Canonical correlations analysis was applied in developing the final base for classifying the observations. Non-hierarchical cluster analysis was employed to build a five-group typology of secondary wood processing firms; these ranged from traditional mass producers to late-industrial flexible manufacturers. There is a clear connection between the amount of late-industrial elements in a company and the share of special and customised sawnwood it uses. Those joinery or furniture manufacturers that are more late-industrial also are likely to use more component-type wood material and to appreciate customer-oriented technical precision. The results show that the change is towards the use of late-industrial sawnwood materials and late-industrial supplier relationships.