Anthraquinones from the Fungus Dermocybe sanguinea as Textile Dyes

This study is based on the multidiciplinary approach of using natural colorants as textile dyes. The author was interested in both the historical and traditional aspects of natural dyeing as well as the modern industrial applications of the pure natural compounds. In the study, the anthraquinone compounds were isolated as aglycones from the ectomycorrhizal fungus Dermocybe sanguinea. The endogenous beta-glucosidase of the fungus was used to catalyse the hydrolysis of the O-glycosyl linkage in emodin- and dermocybin-1-beta-D-glucopyranosides. The method, in which 10.45 kg of fresh fungi was starting material, yielded two fractions: 56.0 g of Fraction 1 (94% of the total amount of pigment,) consisting almost exclusively of the main pigments emodin and dermocybin, and 3.3 g of Fraction 2 (6%) consisting mainly of the anthraquinone carboxylic acids. The anthraquinone compounds in Fractions 1 and 2 were separated by one- and two-dimensional thin-layer-chromatography (TLC) using silica plates. 1D TLC showed that neither an acidic nor a basic solvent system alone separated completely all the anthraquinones isolated from D. sanguinea, in spite of the variation of the rations of the solvent components in the systems. Thus, a new 2D TLC technique was developed, applying n-pentanol-pyridine-methanol (6:4:3, v/v/v) and toluene-ethyl acetate-ethanol-formic acid (10:8:1:2, v/v/v/v) as eluents. Fifteen different anthraquinone derivatives were completely separated from one another. Emodin, physcion, endocrocin, dermolutein, dermorubin, 5-chlorodermorubin, emodin-1-beta-D-glucopyranoside, dermocybin-1-beta-D-glucopyranoside and dermocybin, and five new compounds, not earlier identified in D. sanguinea, 7-chloroemodin, 5,7-dichloroemodin, 5,7-dichloroendocrocin, 4-hydroxyaustrocorticone and austrocorticone, were separated and identified on the basis of their Rf-values, UV/Vis spectra and mass spectra. One substance remained unidentified, because of its very low concentration. The anthraquinones in Fractions 1 and 2 were preparatively separeted by liquid-liquid partition, with isopropylmethyl ketone and aqueous phosphate buffer as the solvent system. Advantage was taken of the principle of stepwise pH-gradient elution. The multiple liquid-liquid partition (MLLP) offered an excellent method for the preparative separation of compounds, which contain acidic groups such as the phenolic OH and COOH groups. Due to their strong aggregation properties, these compounds are, without derivatization, very difficult to separate on a preparative scale by chromatographic methods. By the MLLP method remarkable separations were achieved for the components in each mixture. Emodin and dermocybin were both obtained from Fraction 1 in a purity of at least 99%. Pure emodin and dermocybin were applied as mordant dyes to wool and polyamide and as disperse dyes to polyester and polyamide, using the high temperature (HT) technique. A mixture of dermorubin and 5-chlorodermorubin was applied as an acid dye to wool. In these experiments, synthetic dyes were used as references. Experiments were also performed using water extract of the air-dried fungi as dye liquor for wool and silk. The main colouring compounds in the crude water extract were emodin and dermocybin, which indicated that the O-glycosyl linkages in emodin- and dermocybin-1-beta-D-glucopyranosides were broken by the beta-glucosidase enzyme. Apparently, the hydrolysis occurred during the drying of the fungi and during the soaking of the dried fruit bodies overnight when preparing the dyebath. The colour of each dyed material was investigated in terms of the CIELAB L*, a* and b* values, and the colour fastness to light, washing and rubbing was tested according to the ISO standards. In the mordant dyeing experiments, emodin dyed wool and polyamide yellow and red, depending on the pH of the dyebath. Dermocybin gave purple and violet colours. The colour fastness of the mordant-dyed fabrics varied from good to moderate. The fastness properties of the natural anthraquinone carboxylic acids on wool were good, indicating the strength of the ionic bonds between the COO- groups of the dyes and the NH3+ groups of the fibres. In the disperse dyeing experiments, emodin dyed polyester bright yellow and dermocybin bright reddish-orange, and the fabrics showed excellent colour fastness. In contrast, emodin and dermocybin successfully dyed polyamide brownish-orange and wine-red, respectively, but with only moderate fastness. In industrial dyeing processes, natural anthraquinone aglycone mixtures dyed wool and silk well even at low concentrations of mordants, i.e. with 10% of the weight of the fibre (owf) of KAl(SO4)2 and 1 or 0.5% owf of other mordants. This study showed that purified natural anthraquinone compounds can produce bright hues with good colour-fastness properties in different textile materials. Natural anthraquinones have a significant potential for new dyeing techniques and will provide useful alternatives to synthetic dyes.

Arjen hallinta kotitalouden toiminnan tavoitteena : Kotitalouden toiminnan filosofista ja teoreettista tarkastalua

The aim of this philosophical and theoretical study is to outline a conceptual framework, which could be used to describe the qualitative characteristics of household activities from a holistic point of view. The philosophical part of the study deals with ontological and epistemological approaches. Ontological questions of existence are based on the holistic notion of man. The epistemological approach to household activities is based on the Aristotelian concept of knowledge, according to which actions are viewed as being praxis and poiesis in type. The concept of rationality is essential. As a result of the study, concepts describing the qualitative contents of the concept of mastery of everyday life are presented. Mastery of everyday life describes an individual's understanding of how to act in a household and promote the common good. The qualitative dimensions are the aims of actions, knowledge that guides actions and interaction. From the standpoint of these dimensions, the development of mastery of everyday life means an increase in the individual's sense of responsibility, so that s/he is gradually able to deal responsibility with the whole household, the immediate environment and the surrounding community and society. The quality of interaction develops so that the significance of communicative interaction becomes central. There are three levels in the mastery of everyday life, which differ from one other in respect to the development of reflective thought and the scope of understanding. The whole conceptual framework will contribute to the study of both household activities and the teaching of home economics. Key words: holistic notion of man, rationality, interaction.

Jos heti lataa kaiken ja osoittaa sormella, ei ne nuoret tule mukaan. Järjestöjen mahdollisuudet vaikuttaa nuorten ruokatottumuksiin.

Aims: The older the youngsters are, the more important role hobbies and leisure time activities have in their life. That is why various activities organized by the non-profit organizations have an important role concerning the development of food habits of youngsters. This study has three main themes. The themes and their respective study questions are: 1. The youngsters' conceptions on healthy eating and food choice: What kind of food do youngsters consider as healthy? How do they see their own eating habits from this point of view? 2. The youngsters and the significance of everyday food-related information: How do the youngsters perceive the role of different actors and these actors' role regarding their own food habits and food choice? 3. The possibilities of the organizations that work with youngsters to improve their food habits: What kind of role do the non-profit organizations have on the youngsters' food habits and healthy food choice? Methods: This study comprises of two types of data. First, a quantitative internet-based survey (N=582) was used to collect data on the 9th graders conceptions and understandings. The data was analyzed with the SPSS-program. Means, cross-tabulations, Pearson´s correlations and t-test were calculated from the data. The qualitative data was collected using interviews. The respondents were 12 experts from non-profit organizations. The interviews were analyzed with the qualitative content analysis. Results and conclusions: The non-profit organizations studied have good possibilities to communicate with youngsters through their hobbies. As part of their activities these organizations are able to influence on health-promoting lifestyle and food habits of youngsters. In order to reach more youngsters, these organizations should actively act e.g. in virtual societies of youngsters. Youngsters will participate when activities are voluntary and exhilarating. From the point of food habits doing, learning and identifying are the most important factors to engage the young. Also the models of peers and adults are important. Non-profit organizations should offer youngsters activities but these organizations should also influence on society.

Linnunkiikut ja kallen kaulukset : Kotitekoiset kuukautissiteet 1900-luvun alkupuolen Suomessa

The aim of this thesis was to study what kind of home-made menstrual pads were used in the early 20th century in Finland, how the home-made pads were made and which techniques and materials were used. The use and taking care of menstrual pads were also explored. The history of menstrual pads has been studied in Sweden, Germany and United States but none of those studies has concentrated on home-made pads. Instead, there are many studies about womanhood and menstruation. In many studies home-made menstrual pads are only briefly mentioned. Menstrual pads were not commonly used in Finland at the beginning of the 20th century, but already in the 1940s the use of menstrual pads had become common in every stratum of society. Home-made menstrual pads were used even until the 1960s. In Finland, factory-made disposable menstrual pads became common only in the 1930s and they were only slowly accepted. The study material consisted of nine interviews, three archival inquiries, health care guidebooks from 1893 to 1943 and authentic menstrual pads, menstrual belts and other objects related to them. The interviewed women were born between 1915 and 1939. The narrative approach was used in the study and it also guided the analysis. The interview and archival data were studied according to the basic rules of oral history studies. Literature consisted of publications from several disciplines. The extensive primary material played the most important role in this study. The reconstructions of the menstrual pads were made according to the interviewed women s advice. In Finland there were innumerable variations of home-made menstrual pads. The pads were most commonly crocheted and knitted either by hand or by knitting machine. Pads were also sewn of cloth, old bed linen or old underwear. The menstrual pads were self-made or made by a female relative. Word of mouth was important in spreading information on how to make pads, because there were hardly any instructions available. The biggest pads were 54 cm long and 13 cm wide. The most widely used pad model was a rectangle, which had triangle-shaped ends with a buttonhole or a loop. The pad was attached to the menstrual belt or to the buttons of the suspender belt. Knitted and crocheted pads had one, two or three layers. In sewn pads, there could be even more layers. Cellulose wadding or pieces of cloth could be placed inside the pad to increase the absorption ability. The experiences of the comfort of self-made pads varied. The crocheted and sewn pads were found chafing, knitted ones were found soft and comfortable. The menstrual pads were laborious to wash and boil in lye water. Therefore disposable pads made everyday life easier. The home-made menstrual pads were part of a unique tradition of handicrafts and folk culture. Hand-made pads were one of the most common handicraft products and were a part of every woman s life. Even so, the menstrual pads were unnoticeable. The large number of variations was probably caused by the silence around menstrual topics and by the lack of instructions for making pads. Variations are also explained by the uniqueness of every handicraft product. In Finland the home-made pads were used until relatively recent times. This was caused by the conditions of wartime and the following years and the rarity of commercial pads. Furthermore, until the late 20th century Finland was an agricultural society where all innovations spread slowly. Home-made menstrual pad was a secret handicraft of women and every woman needed to know how to make it by herself.

Käsityön sukupuolirajat ja rajojen rikkojat

Gender-specific division of crafts is significant in Finnish culture. The aim of craft education in comprehensive schools has been to unify education for both girls and boys during the thirty years of modern comprehensive education, but in reality crafts has diverged into two different subjects for girls and boys. Craft education has taught different things: girls have been taught things that are feminine and included in private life, while the boys’ education has been mostly directed at public and working life. At the same time girls and boys have been educated and socialized towards a certain womanhood and manhood. Craft as a hobby is also very gender divided but there are some clues that tell of the changing positions on the border areas. The starting point of this study has been the assumption that gender structures within crafts can be transformed. But it is important to know the background that creates and maintains these constructions and the expedients for dismantling the structures. The main purpose of this study is to find out how the gender-specific crafts are changing and how they are still maintained. My study analyses why men and woman have chosen untypical hobbies and through that I shall discuss how gendered structures can be dismantled. In the autumn of 2008 I interviewed borderline breakers within crafts: men who had an interest in textile crafts and women who had an interest in technical work. Informants of this study were 20-31 years old and they studied behavioural sciences. The data was collected in 12 theme interviews and document analysis was used to study the results. The dismantling of the gender divide in crafts is slow, but new borders are drawn all the time. The informants have started textile and technical handicrafts soon after comprehensive school or during their studies at university. A main motivation for the new hobby has been the possibility to study for a teacher’s degree with technology or textile studies as a main or a secondary subject. Gender-specific division of crafts is constructed early in childhood as different skills are taught to girls and boys. School teaches gender specific skills and the different skills of girls and boys have not been taken into account. Instead, it has been assumed through comprehensive school that both girls and boys share certain basic skills, and attention has not been paid to the differences between genders. At university the same assumption has still thrived. Skill levels between men and women are substantial and that may have hindered a move by women to technical studies and by men to textile studies. Hence an assumption of naturally gendered crafts has been developed.

Käsityökohtaamisia muinaisuuden kanssa : Neulalla neulominen eli kinnasneulatekniikka ...muutakin kuin neulakinnas?

The aim of this study was to find out how the technique of knotless netting is perceived by the craftsperson of the twenty first century. In this study the craftspeople are represented by the researcher herself, seven craftspeople and teachers (3) teaching knotless netting as well as their students (21). The main interests of this study are the mental pictures and relationship to knotless netting that craftspeople have in the twenty first century. Points of focus are also the specific characteristics of knotless netting, as well as experimenting with new and different materials. The aim of these experiments has been to find new and unusual uses for knotless netting. Preserving knotless netting as a craft and technique are also questions dealt with in this study. The methodology of this study is a qualitative and phenomenographic study of several cases. The data collected are interviews of the teachers, observations in two knotless netting courses, questionnaires answered by the students in these courses and experimental samples made by the author and evaluated by other craftspeople. These samples were made during the years 2005-2008. The interviews, questionnaires and evaluations were conducted under winter and spring 2008. The reference literature is comprised from publications in several different fields. In this study ethnography is the most dominant field of reference due to the fact that knotless netting is so strongly linked to history and antiquity. In the past the technique of knotless netting has been passed down from generation to generation in whatever form the teacher has known. There are many different ways of stitching and binding in knotless netting. This technique is closely connected to traditional knotless netting mittens even today. Nowadays knotless knitting is taught in craft schools, evening classes and in other recreational courses. The concrete understanding of knotless netting by means of two-dimensional instructions is challenging. Craftspeople often require somebody to actually demonstrate the correct way to make the stitches and hold the work before they can proceed with the technique. The way knotless netting is perceived by craftspeople is linked to their backgrounds and preconstructed mental images concerning the technique. An etnographer approaches knotless netting in a different way from a crafts-scientist or a person in an evening class wishing to master the technique. The attitude of the teacher is passed on to students and also affects the way the student perceives knotless netting and its possibilities as a technique. A craftsperson has mixed feelings toward knotted netting. On the other hand the surfaces produced by this rare technique are intriguing but the costs due to the slow manufacturing process are seen as an encumbrance.

Uskollinen unelma ja Paratiisilintu: suunnittelijoiden mielikuvat yksilöllisen vaatteen suunnitteluprosessissa

Tutkimuksen tarkoituksena oli tarkastella ja kuvailla ateljeeompelimon suunnittelijan mielikuvia yksilöllisen vaatteen suunnitteluprosessissa. Suunnitteluprosessissa ilmeneviä mielikuvia tutkittiin sekä asiakaslähtöisestä suunnittelusta että pienimuotoisesta mallistosuunnittelusta käsin. Tutkimuksen aineisto kerättiin kolmen suunnittelijan teemahaastatteluilla, minkä jälkeen aineisto analysoitiin teema-alueista luodun analyysirungon mukaisesti. Tutkimustuloksissa mielikuvia on havainnollistettu valokuvin sekä materiaalinäyttein vaatteista, joista haastattelutilanteissa keskusteltiin. Tutkimuksessa suunnitteluprosessi käsitetään osaksi käsityön luovaa ilmaisua, johon kuuluu osittain myös vaatteen valmistusprosessi. Yksilöllisen vaatteen suunnittelu alkaa suunnittelijan abstrakteista mielikuvista, jotka tarkentuvat prosessin edetessä konkretisoituen lopulta valmiiseen vaatteeseen. Tutkimuksessa mielikuvat käsitetään kokemuksiksi, jotka kietoutuvat prosessimaisesti suunnittelun yhteyteen. Mielikuvia muodostuu suunnittelun kaikilla osa-alueilla, ja niiden syntyyn vaikuttavat lähinnä asiakas, materiaali sekä suunnittelijan esteettinen ja taidollinen näkemys. Mielikuvia kehitetään ja ilmaistaan luonnostelemalla, sovituksissa, asiakaskeskusteluissa sekä materiaalin muodonannon avulla. Mielikuvilla on merkitystä suunnittelun ongelmanratkaisuvaiheissa. Mielikuvat näyttivät ohjaavan suunnittelijoita valitsemaan erilaisten mahdollisuuksien joukosta sen, joka tuntui parhaimmalta. Tutkimustulokset osoittivat suunnittelijoiden peilaavan jokaista suunnitteluprosessia mielikuvaan esteettisestä, toiminnallisesta ja ilmaisullisesta vaatteesta. Mielikuvissa vaate vastaa asiakkaan tarpeisiin, siinä on jokin kiinnostava yksityiskohta ja se edustaa tinkimätöntä käsityön taitoa. Tutkimustuloksissa korostui erityisesti materiaalin ja mielikuvien suhde. Materiaali innoittaa mielikuvien syntymiseen ja sen avulla luodaan vaikutelmia vastaamaan haluttua mielikuvaa. Materiaalin ja mielikuvien sidoksellisuus tarjoaa aiheita jatkotutkimukseen.

Villapaidoistako elämänlankaa? : Tutkimus neulonnasta harrastuksena

Tutkimuksen tavoitteena oli tarkastella neulonnan harrastamista: etsiä yhteyksiä perinteeseen, kartoittaa nykytilannetta ja hahmotella mahdollisia tulevaisuuden näkymiä. Tutkimuksen avulla haettiin vastausta neulontaharrastuksen viriämiseen liittyviin tekijöihin, harrastuksen ilmenemiseen ja neulonnan merkitykseen harrastajalle. Teoreettisen viitekehyksen mukaan neulontaa tarkasteltiin harrastuksena, käsityön osa-alueena jaopittuna taitona. Lisäksi neulonnan merkitystä harrastajalle lähestyttiin kartoittamalla merkitystentaustalla olevia arvoja ja asenteita. Tutkimuksen suoritustavaksi valittiin kyselylomakkeen avulla toteutettava kvantitatiivinen menetelmä, jota täydennettiin tulosten tulkinnassa käytetyllä kvalitatiivisella tutkimusotteella. Kyselylomakkeeseen sijoitettiin monivalintakysymysten ja väittämien lisäksi laajempi neulonnan merkitystä kartoittava avoin kysymys. Tavoitteena oli saada mahdollisimman laaja kuva neulonnan harrastamisesta Suomessa. Tutkimuksen yhteistyökumppaneiksi lupautuivat Helsingin villakehräämö ja Novita Neuleet -lehti, joiden avulla pystyttiin tavoittamaan neulonnan harrastajia ympäri Suomea. Tutkimus suoritettiin postikyselynä, joka lähetettiin Novita Neuleet -lehden tilaajille ja samansuuruiselle ryhmälle oletettuja neulonnan harrastajia. Otoksen koko oli 603 henkilöä, joista 325 palauttitäytetyn lomakkeen määräaikaan mennessä. Vastausten palautumisprosentti oli 54%. Aineiston analysoinnissa käytettiin SPSS-tilasto-ohjelmaa, jonka avulla aineistosta laadittiin frekvenssi- ja prosenttijakaumat sekä tarvittavat tunnusluvut. Ryhmien välisiä eroja testattiin ristiintaulukoinneilla ja tilastollisilla testeillä. Neulonnan arvostusta ja merkitystä kuvaavista väittämistä laadittiin faktorianalyysi mahdollisten neulojatyyppien muodostamista varten. Neulonnan merkitystä harrastajalle tulkittiin sisällön erittelyllä sekä olemustyyppianalyysiä soveltamalla. Tulosten perusteella neulontaharrastuksen viriämiseen liittyivät keskeisesti suvun ja perinteen merkitys, tarpeet ja koulukokemukset. Neulontaa harrastettiin paljon, sillä vastaajista 99% neuloi käsin vähintään yhden työn vuodessa. Eniten neulottiin villapaitoja (82%). Tilastollisesti Novita Neuleet -lehden tilaajat neuloivat vertailuryhmää enemmän. Neulonnan merkityksissä harrastajalle korostettiin hyödyllistä ajankäyttöä, rentoutumista, luovuutta ja itsensä ilmaisua. Neuleen valmiiksi saaminen tuotti mielihyvää, joka ilmeni antamisen ilona, haasteiden voittamisena ja onnistumisen kokemuksina. Harrastajien toimintaa kuvaamaan muodostettiin kaksi neulojatyyppiä: elämäntapa- ja tarveneulojat. Elämäntapaneulojilla on aina jokin neuletyö meneillään, kun taas tarveneulojat ryhtyvät neulomaan tarvitessaan esimerkiksi neulevaatteen tai käsilleen tekemistä. Villapaidoista voi saada elämänlankaa, sillä neulonnan todettiin tuovan harrastajan elämään sisältöä. Neulontaa pidettiin tulevaisuudessakin tarvittavana käsityötaitona, jonka haluttiin säilyvän tuleville sukupolville.