Uskollinen unelma ja Paratiisilintu: suunnittelijoiden mielikuvat yksilöllisen vaatteen suunnitteluprosessissa

Tutkimuksen tarkoituksena oli tarkastella ja kuvailla ateljeeompelimon suunnittelijan mielikuvia yksilöllisen vaatteen suunnitteluprosessissa. Suunnitteluprosessissa ilmeneviä mielikuvia tutkittiin sekä asiakaslähtöisestä suunnittelusta että pienimuotoisesta mallistosuunnittelusta käsin. Tutkimuksen aineisto kerättiin kolmen suunnittelijan teemahaastatteluilla, minkä jälkeen aineisto analysoitiin teema-alueista luodun analyysirungon mukaisesti. Tutkimustuloksissa mielikuvia on havainnollistettu valokuvin sekä materiaalinäyttein vaatteista, joista haastattelutilanteissa keskusteltiin. Tutkimuksessa suunnitteluprosessi käsitetään osaksi käsityön luovaa ilmaisua, johon kuuluu osittain myös vaatteen valmistusprosessi. Yksilöllisen vaatteen suunnittelu alkaa suunnittelijan abstrakteista mielikuvista, jotka tarkentuvat prosessin edetessä konkretisoituen lopulta valmiiseen vaatteeseen. Tutkimuksessa mielikuvat käsitetään kokemuksiksi, jotka kietoutuvat prosessimaisesti suunnittelun yhteyteen. Mielikuvia muodostuu suunnittelun kaikilla osa-alueilla, ja niiden syntyyn vaikuttavat lähinnä asiakas, materiaali sekä suunnittelijan esteettinen ja taidollinen näkemys. Mielikuvia kehitetään ja ilmaistaan luonnostelemalla, sovituksissa, asiakaskeskusteluissa sekä materiaalin muodonannon avulla. Mielikuvilla on merkitystä suunnittelun ongelmanratkaisuvaiheissa. Mielikuvat näyttivät ohjaavan suunnittelijoita valitsemaan erilaisten mahdollisuuksien joukosta sen, joka tuntui parhaimmalta. Tutkimustulokset osoittivat suunnittelijoiden peilaavan jokaista suunnitteluprosessia mielikuvaan esteettisestä, toiminnallisesta ja ilmaisullisesta vaatteesta. Mielikuvissa vaate vastaa asiakkaan tarpeisiin, siinä on jokin kiinnostava yksityiskohta ja se edustaa tinkimätöntä käsityön taitoa. Tutkimustuloksissa korostui erityisesti materiaalin ja mielikuvien suhde. Materiaali innoittaa mielikuvien syntymiseen ja sen avulla luodaan vaikutelmia vastaamaan haluttua mielikuvaa. Materiaalin ja mielikuvien sidoksellisuus tarjoaa aiheita jatkotutkimukseen.

"Älynväläyksiä juoksuasuissa" : Kestävyysjuoksijoiden käsityksiä juoksuasujen funktionaalisuudesta talviolosuhteissa sekä älyvaatteista

In this research the technical functionality, quality and demands made on endurance runners` running suits in winter conditions were studied. The aim was also to find out how smart clothing and wearable technology are adopted in endurance runners` practise. Referring to previous studies the subject was approached in the theoretical part by studying the profile of endurance running, sports wear and the technology to wear as well as the smart clothing from the point of view of endurance running. The basis of subject was the interest of smart materials and the connection between technical structures and functionality. In the science of handicrafts smart clothing is rarely researched which made it even more interesting for the author. This research was carried out by the principles of the usability research. Usability means the suitability of product to its intended meaning. In the research both quantitative and qualitative methods were used. Researched persons were active competitive long-distance runners and also the long-distance runners doing it as a hobby, 35 male and 12 female runners. User information was gathered by the internet forms which mainly was based on the multiple choices but also included few open questions. Gathered information was considered by using both quantitative and content analysing methods. The functional long-distance running practice suit in winter conditions consisted of layered look which considered the possibilities of functional and smart materials. The Practise suit was humid transformable, easy care and light also comfortable to wear. These suits were hoped to be more functional than the current ones. The future running suit was described to not to feel or notice during running. It will not be too tight or sweltering. The functional abilities of clothing materials were believed to be developed further more. Even if the new technical materials are adopted for the running suits the technology to wear is not even though half of the researched runners used pulse indicators. The runners hoped the technology to wear to change more invisible and easier to use. Some of the runners wished the technology to wear to be integrated straight to the clothes which would reduce the number of devices carried with while running. The rare use of Polar Adidas AdiStar Fusion practise system and some other similar systems for endurance running was surprising. According to the results the smart clothing would not make a big brake through in the near future. In the point of view of the researched persons developing of clothing materials was a good and necessary thing, but integrating too much technology to the hobby smears the main purpose of sports and focuses wrongly on the metres and others minors .

Villapaidoistako elämänlankaa? : Tutkimus neulonnasta harrastuksena

Tutkimuksen tavoitteena oli tarkastella neulonnan harrastamista: etsiä yhteyksiä perinteeseen, kartoittaa nykytilannetta ja hahmotella mahdollisia tulevaisuuden näkymiä. Tutkimuksen avulla haettiin vastausta neulontaharrastuksen viriämiseen liittyviin tekijöihin, harrastuksen ilmenemiseen ja neulonnan merkitykseen harrastajalle. Teoreettisen viitekehyksen mukaan neulontaa tarkasteltiin harrastuksena, käsityön osa-alueena jaopittuna taitona. Lisäksi neulonnan merkitystä harrastajalle lähestyttiin kartoittamalla merkitystentaustalla olevia arvoja ja asenteita. Tutkimuksen suoritustavaksi valittiin kyselylomakkeen avulla toteutettava kvantitatiivinen menetelmä, jota täydennettiin tulosten tulkinnassa käytetyllä kvalitatiivisella tutkimusotteella. Kyselylomakkeeseen sijoitettiin monivalintakysymysten ja väittämien lisäksi laajempi neulonnan merkitystä kartoittava avoin kysymys. Tavoitteena oli saada mahdollisimman laaja kuva neulonnan harrastamisesta Suomessa. Tutkimuksen yhteistyökumppaneiksi lupautuivat Helsingin villakehräämö ja Novita Neuleet -lehti, joiden avulla pystyttiin tavoittamaan neulonnan harrastajia ympäri Suomea. Tutkimus suoritettiin postikyselynä, joka lähetettiin Novita Neuleet -lehden tilaajille ja samansuuruiselle ryhmälle oletettuja neulonnan harrastajia. Otoksen koko oli 603 henkilöä, joista 325 palauttitäytetyn lomakkeen määräaikaan mennessä. Vastausten palautumisprosentti oli 54%. Aineiston analysoinnissa käytettiin SPSS-tilasto-ohjelmaa, jonka avulla aineistosta laadittiin frekvenssi- ja prosenttijakaumat sekä tarvittavat tunnusluvut. Ryhmien välisiä eroja testattiin ristiintaulukoinneilla ja tilastollisilla testeillä. Neulonnan arvostusta ja merkitystä kuvaavista väittämistä laadittiin faktorianalyysi mahdollisten neulojatyyppien muodostamista varten. Neulonnan merkitystä harrastajalle tulkittiin sisällön erittelyllä sekä olemustyyppianalyysiä soveltamalla. Tulosten perusteella neulontaharrastuksen viriämiseen liittyivät keskeisesti suvun ja perinteen merkitys, tarpeet ja koulukokemukset. Neulontaa harrastettiin paljon, sillä vastaajista 99% neuloi käsin vähintään yhden työn vuodessa. Eniten neulottiin villapaitoja (82%). Tilastollisesti Novita Neuleet -lehden tilaajat neuloivat vertailuryhmää enemmän. Neulonnan merkityksissä harrastajalle korostettiin hyödyllistä ajankäyttöä, rentoutumista, luovuutta ja itsensä ilmaisua. Neuleen valmiiksi saaminen tuotti mielihyvää, joka ilmeni antamisen ilona, haasteiden voittamisena ja onnistumisen kokemuksina. Harrastajien toimintaa kuvaamaan muodostettiin kaksi neulojatyyppiä: elämäntapa- ja tarveneulojat. Elämäntapaneulojilla on aina jokin neuletyö meneillään, kun taas tarveneulojat ryhtyvät neulomaan tarvitessaan esimerkiksi neulevaatteen tai käsilleen tekemistä. Villapaidoista voi saada elämänlankaa, sillä neulonnan todettiin tuovan harrastajan elämään sisältöä. Neulontaa pidettiin tulevaisuudessakin tarvittavana käsityötaitona, jonka haluttiin säilyvän tuleville sukupolville.

Mallimestari globalisoituneen sarjatuotannon situationaalisessa prosessissa : Kokemustutkimus

In this thesis, taking place within the clothing industry of Finland, the impact of the globalisation of the economy on the pattern maker s job was studied and the present day fields of know-how of the job were found out. The thesis answers the questions, what are the characteristics of the patternmaker s job nowadays, and what areas of the know-how in the patternmaker s job form the core know-how, which is repeated in every organisation. Earlier studies of the subject do not exist in Finland. Similar studies have been made in USA (Staples 1993) and in Estonia (2002). Patternmakers who took part in this study were located in the Finnish clothing companies manufacturing or having clothes manufactured in series production, like clothing industry or chain of stores. A methodical triangulation was used in the thesis. In a phenomenological research of experience seven patternmakers were interviewed and in a quantitative research 26 patternmakers filled in a structured questionnaire. The phenomenological analysis has 2 parts. In the first phase using the professional background of the patternmakers, the historical development of the clothing industry for the last 40 years was described. In the second phase of the phenomenological analysis the description of the patternmaker s job was created based on the organisational strategy of the companies nowadays. The analysis of quantitative research material was performed by one-dimensional study of variables, where the variations in the amounts of variables lead to proportional conclusions. As a result of the structured questionnaire, the core know-how of the patternmaker was pointed out. In the thesis, the concept of situationality was used to describe the continuous change in the clothing industry. This explains the continuous requirement of patternmakers commitment to the time and location. The researcher has a background of a patternmaker and she works as a specialist instructor. With the thesis the researcher updates her professional competence. The analysis of the patternmaker s job can be used to update the content of patternmakers education in the vocational schools.

Nuorten mielikuvia kouluruokailusta

Knowledge of healthy food does not move alone our food choice. One also needs a piece of tongue evidence that food tastes good. Way to eat is part of our lifestyle. It is important to eat same foods with one`s friend. Aims: The overall aim of this study was to find out how youngsters themselves feel and sense of the school lunch, both food and whole lunch situation. This study has three specific research problems. The research problems are: 1. How the youngsters sense their school lunch events? 2. How the youngsters experience the physical conditions of their school lunch events? 3. How the youngsters think their lunch events could be changed? Methods: The data is collected in spring 2009 from two secondary school at the Kaarina city. The respondents were ninth grader. They were studying optional home economics classes. The number of respondents was 28 pupils. The respondents wrote a story, describing what kind of their school lunch situation should be. The story was based on youngsters own vision of school lunch situations. In this study the material is collected by the narrative method and the stories were analyzed with qualitative content analysis. Results and conclusions: According to the results these youngsters wanted their lunch to be more cosier and also more quiet. School lunches should be the moment when they can eat in peace and at the same talk with their friends in the pleasant surroundings. The food selection should be more varied, including both salad and main food as well as bread.

Kodin ja työn rajavyöhykkeellä - yhteensovittamisen jännitteitä ja ratkaisuja arjessa

The aim of this research is to study the boundary zone of home and work and the tensions people experience while reconciling home and work? How are the requirements of the family, the home and the work taken care of in everyday life? What kind of difficulties does the individual experience when reconciling home activities and job requirements together? What kind of activity policies have families created to ease the everyday life? What kind of goals and requirements do families feel behind the difficulties in adjusting home and work? What kind of changes would make the adjusting of home and work easier? The changing family life, everyday home activities and the changing Finnish working life are studied to describe the adjusting of home and work. In addition the boundary zone of home and work and its tensions are studied. 337 research persons who find reconciling home and work challenging were elected from different sectors of the working life. Research persons were gathered from the public, private and third sectors. The research material was gathered with a semi-structured qualitative questionnaire published in internet. Contents analysis was the analysis method of the research material. The tensions of adjusting home and work are various. Several activity systems meet on the boundary zone of home and work causing boundary zones to expand and tensions to increase and expand like a network. In the everyday life of an individual the boundary zone fades out and home and work overlap. Tensions can be examined as internal conflicts of the individual through the activity system of everyday life. Individuals balance between individualism and familism, feeling bad, suffering from lack of time and struggling with childcare organizing problems and inflexible employers. The solutions to reconciling home and work difficulties are situational. Often is the help of family and friends required without any solid solutions. The conflict of the goals, requirements and the reality is behind the problems as well as the tightening terms of the working life and its growing expectations. Change requests are proposed on the levels of individual, home, work and the society. Reconciling home and work is not only a challenge between the employee and the employer. It s a problem that needs multilateral solutions and changes on the levels of individual, home, work and society. The challenge remaining is to find out if it would be successful to take the everyday life as starting point to negotiate the reconciling of home and work and how the possible family, social and work political solutions appear in everyday life.

Käsityön merkitys ja mielekkyys vangin kokemana : Hämeen lääninvankilan käsityötoimintaan osallistuneiden tutkinta- ja vankeusvankien mielipiteitä

Tutkimuksen tarkoituksena oli selvittää vankilassa käsityötä opiskelevien, harrastavien ja vankityönä käsityötä tekevien vankien tähän elämän tilanteeseen liittyviä käsityötoimintaan osallistumisen kokemuksia ja heidän käsityölle antamia merkityksiä. Tutkimukselle asetettiin kolme tehtävää. Tutkimuksen ensimmäisenä tehtävänä oli kartoittaa mitä käsityötoimintaa Hämeen lääninvankilassa järjestetään. Toisena tehtävänä oli selvittää millaisia kokemuksia Hämeen lääninvankilan tutkinta-ja vankeusvangeilla on käsityötoimintaan osallistumisesta vankilassa oloaikana. Kolmantena tehtävänä oli selvittää millaiseksi vanki kokee käsityön merkityksen itselleen vankilassa oloaikana. Tutkimusaineisto kerättiin haastattelemalla kahdeksaa Hämeen lääninvankilan vankia 13-14.10.1997. Neljä heistä oli tutkintavankia ja neljä vankeusvankia. Kaikki haastateltavat olivat miehiä. Haastatteluja varten haettiin tutkimuslupa Oikeusministeriön Vankeinhoito-osastolta. Haastattelut olivat puolistrukturoituja. Haastatteluaineiston analyysimenetelmänä käytettiin Grounded Theory -menetelmää. Tutkimus osoitti, että Hämeen lääninvankilassa järjestetään käsityötoimintaa tutkinta- ja vankeusvangeille vankityönä, harrastuksiin, ammatilliseen koulutukseen ja kurssitoimintaan liittyen. Vankien haastattelujen mukaan käsityön tekemisessä ovat mielekkäitä asiat, jotka liittyvät tekemiseen, oppimiseen ja sosiaaliseen vuorovaikutukseen. Ei mielekkäinä asioina käsityön tekemisessä pidettiin motivaatioon, oppimiseen ja aikaan sisältyviä asioita. Tutkimuksen perusteella voidaan tehdä se johtopäätös, että tutkinta- ja vankeusvankien käsityön merkitykset kohdistuvat tekemiseen, sosiaaliseen vuorovaikutukseen, vaihteluun, mielialaan vaikuttaviin asioihin, oppimiseen,osaamiseen, ajan käyttöön, taloudeliseen hyötyyn ja fyysisen ympäristönmuutoksiin. Tutkielmassa esitellään vankien kokemuksia ja mielipiteitä käsityötoimintaan osallistumisesta vankilassaoloaikana. Näitä kokemuksia voidaan käyttää esimerkiksi silloin, kun suunnitellaan ja kehitetään vangeille järjestettävää käsityötoimintaa. Avainsanat: käsityö, merkitys, arvot, vanki, vankila, vankeinhoito

Kinnasneulatekniikan verkko-oppimateriaalin kehittäminen ja neulalla neulomisen taidon kehittyminen

The purpose of the study was to develop a functional web-based learning material for the learning of the nålbinding technique. The study of the research topic was already begun in my pedagogical thesis in 2008 by considering the demands on pedagogic material for the teaching of the technique. This study falls into the field of qualitative design research which was carried out through three stages. In the study three methods of usability testing, i.e. expert analysis, the informants’ thinking aloud and interviews, were used as research methods. At the first stage of the study the first version of the learning material was created. This was done on the basis of theoretical knowledge, the demands set on learning materials as clarified in previous studies, on the basis of previously created learning materials for the learning of the nålbinding technique as well as with the help of two experts on the technique. At the second stage, the learning material was developed on the basis of expert analysis and another version of the material was created. At the third stage, usability testing was carried out on the material. At this stage two informants used the material, practiced stitching with the nålbinding needle and thought aloud while doing so. In the usability testing the Morae –programme was used to record the events on the screen, the actions of the informants and their spoken out thoughts. The Morae –programme was also used when analysing the recordings. After the testing, the informants practised stitching independently and in a few weeks time they were interviewed. The interviews were aimed at finding out the informants’ opinions on the future development of the material. On the basis of the informants’ independent attempts at using the nålbinding technique, the development of their skills after the testing was also discussed at the interviews. The development of the learning material will continue after this study on the basis of the usability testing and the interviews. The web-based learning material was created for the website Käspaikka in the address www.kaspaikka.fi/kinnasneula. By creating a multimodal learning material the dual-coding theory by Paivio was taken into consideration. According to the theory, several methods of presentation help a learner to restore information in his/her memory. The independent construction of the learner’s knowledge, i.e. learning according to the principles of the constructivist learning theory, was also supported by creating a logical navigation system, by linking interrelated topics to one another and by presenting the topics in several different forms. In the test situations the learning material was judged to work well when practising stitching with the nålbinding needle. Both informants learned the basics of the nålbinding technique even though their respective learning strategies were quite different. In the usability testing illogicalities and shortcomings were still noticed in the learning material which will still be further developed in the future.

Tilausompelijan ja asiakkaan näkemyksiä laadusta

The aim of the study was to find out what kind of view on product quality dressmaker and customer have, how the views differ from each other and how the difference affects dressmaker s work as an entrepreneur. The research data consists of eight thematic interviews: four dressmakers and four customers were interviewed for the study. In the core of customised dressmaking is arelationship between a maker and a client. The product of a dressmaker, a unique dress, is created in an immediate interaction between a dressmaker and a client. Also the quality of a unique dress derives from this interaction. In the results of this study, the views on quality are linked with six themes: dress, process, dressmaker, customer, interaction and enterprise. The dressmakers and the customers agree that the quality of a custom-made dress is based on unique fit. Describing the process the dressmakers insist on the quality of manufacturing. The clients' view on process insists on those phases where they themselves take part: designing and fitting. The personality of the dressmaker is part of quality in both the dressmakers' and the customers' points of view. The dressmakers and the customers are also aware of the customers impact on fulfilling the expectations. The immediate interaction between dressmaker and customer is a key to the unique dressmaking. At its best the interaction is followed by a trusting relationship. Entrustment derives also from a good reputation, which is essential in dressmaker-entrepreneurs marketing strategy. The dressmakers views on quality are product- and manufacturing-based. According to the results of the study there can be seen different types of dressmakers, that emphasise different aspects of quality. At the other end is a manufacturing-based, even transcendent view on quality, which rests on the values of the dressmaker. At the other end lies a customer- and value-based approach, which is founded on fulfilling the expectations and needs of the customer. In their views on quality the customers emphasise the immediate interaction between dressmaker and client. Keywords: quality, dressmaker, customer, entrepreneur

Saako terveysuskoja synninpäästön? : Naispappien käsityksiä laihdutus- ja terveyskulttuurista nykyisessä mediayhteiskunnassa

Background and aims. Fatness and dieting have been the object of interest between many fields for a long time. Home economics as a discipline enables a comprehensive inspection of fatness and dieting reviewing different disciplines. In addition to the aspect where the pursuit of dieting and health is seen from the perspective of medical and health science it is also been reviewd as a social and cultural phenomena. This study contemplates the influence of history, religion, medicalization and media on dieting and health culture. The objective is to find out if the modern dieting and health culture has gathered influences from centuries ago and absorbed religious features. The stress deriving from appereance has been discussed in the public and there are many solutions conserning weight issues. The purpose of this study is to find out what personal experiences and thoughts female pastors have conserning these questions. The media – which is one of the most influential systems nowadays – has undeniably a great effect on the consumer. The goal is furthermore to estimate the effect of the media on the changing of dieting and health culture. The three main research questions are: 1. What kind of conseptions do female pastors have of dieting and health culture and of its religious features? 2. What kind of personal experiences and conseptions do female pastors have of dieting and strivines of health? 3. How do female pastors regard the image the media has supplied of dieting and health culture? Material and methods. The qualitative data was gathered in year 2009 using the halfstructured theme interview -method. The data consists of interviews conducted with specialists of spiritual matters, i.e. ten female pastors who are between 35 and 60 years old and live in the metropolitan area. The analytical procedure used is called a theory based context analysis. Results and conclusions. Results of this study show that the idealization of slimness and healthiness is a matter discussed in the public on a daily basis. The problem faced was that the media provided contradictory information regarding fatness and dieting and the standard of slimness in commercials focused on females. The pursuit of dieting and healthiness was believed to include also religious elements. In the Middle Ages and the era after that the fatness, overeating and the pleasure one gets from eating was still seen as a condemnable matter in our culture. One could say this was like a sin. The respondents believed that healthiness, healthy living, optimal eating and good looks were a matter more or less equal than a religion. This was a derivative from the fact that treasuring health has become a life stearing value for many people. In the priest’s profession dieting and the pursuit of health was seen in the light of problems arising from weight issues. In ones profession for example the unhealthy eating in festive situations was seen as a matter that leads to unnecessary weight. Another aspect was the job circumstances that limited the degree of movement. The belief was that the female pastors would in a decreasing fashion confront stress deriving from appearence in their job. Keywords: dieting, fatness, healthiness, slimness, female pastors, religion, medicalization, media

Käsityötä, kotiteollisuutta ja sosiaalihuoltoa : Työtupa Aunuksessa 1941-1944

When Finland occupied East Karelian territories in Soviet Union during The Continuation War (1941 1944) Finnish people had also to take care of the inhabitants of the occupied East Karelia. For example there was a lack of clothes and shoes during the wartime. In order to facilitate clothing situation and to provide more opportunities to work for women, Finnish people founded some workshops in East Karelia. Workshops also helped to collect East Karelian craft products. One of the workshops was founded in the city of Olonets in October 1941 and it was in operation until June 1944. This workshop is the subject of this thesis. The aim of this thesis is to find out with the microhistorical approach what kind of functions the workshop of Olonets had during The Continuation War and who worked in the workshop. In this thesis I also examine women s crafts in the Olonets workshop and their meaning during the wartime. I collected the material of this thesis from different places. In February 2010 I interviewed Talvikki Lausala, the leader of the Olonets workshop, who worked in the Olonets from May 1942 to June 1944. From the Virkki Käsityömuseo I looked for objects which have been made in the workshop of Olonets. Tyyne-Kerttu Virkki collected crafts from the East Karelia when she was working in the area and in the workshop from 1941 to 1944. Archive material I found from the Finnish National archive and from the archive of the Tyyne-Kerttu Virkki -Foundation. East Karelian women and girls who were not able to do anything else came to work in the Olonets workshop. If women could not go to work outside of home, they had an option to do the same crafts at home. There were three Finnish women, Tyyne-Kerttu Virkki, Talvikki Lausala and Sofi Nyrkkö, who worked and led in the workshop of Olonets. In addition to the workshop, there was a dress maker s atelier in which clothes were made to order and soldiers uniforms were repaired, a small museum and a shop to sell products of the workshop. Craft products were also exported to Finland. Courses were organized in which Finnish women taught East Karelian crafts.