Numerical Simulation of Waves Generated by Seafloor Movements

Waves generated by vertical seafloor movements are simulated by use of a fully nonlinear two-dimensional numerical wave tank. In the source region, the seafloor lifts to a designated height by a generation function. The numerical tests show that file linear theory is only valid for estimating the wave behaviors induced by the seafloor movements with a small amplitude, and the fully nonlinear numerical model should be adopted in the simulation of the wave generation by the large amplitude seafloor movements. Without the background surface waves, many numerical tests on the stable maximum elevations eta(max)(0) are carried out by both the linear theory and the fully nonlinear model. The results of two models are compared and analyzed. For the fully nonlinear model, the influences of the amplitudes and the horizontal lengths on eta(max)(0) are stronger than that of the characteristic duration times. Furthermore, results reveal that there are significant differences between the linear theory and the fully nonlinear model. When the influences of the background surface waves are considered, the corresponding numerical analyses reveal that with the fully nonlinear model the eta(max)(0) near-linearly varies with the wave amplitudes of the surface waves, and the eta(max)(0) has significant dependences on the wave lengths and the wave phases of the surface waves. In addition, the differences between the linear theory and the fully nonlinear model are still obvious, aid these differences are significantly affected by The wave parameters of the background surface waves, such as the wave amplitude, the wave length and the wave phase.

Mud mass transport due to waves based on an empirical rheology model featured by hysteresis loop

A vertical 2-D water-mud numerical model is developed for estimating the rate of mud mass transport under wave action. A nonlinear semi-empirical rheology model featured by remarkable hysteresis loops in the relationships of the shear stress versus both the shear strain and the rate of shear strain of mud is applied to this water mud model. A logarithmic grid in the vertical direction is employed for numerical treatment, which increases the resolution of the flow in the neighborhood of both sides of the interface. Model verifications are given through comparisons between the calculated and the measured mud mass transport velocities as well as wave height changes. (C) 2006 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.

Second-order Stokes wave solutions for intefacial waves in three-layer stratified fluid with background current

In this paper, interfacial waves in three-layer stratified fluid with background current are investigated using a perturbation method, and the second-order asymptotic solutions of the velocity potentials and the second-order Stokes wave solutions of the associated elevations of the interfacial waves are presented based on the small amplitude wave theory, and the Kelvin-Helmholtz instability of interfacial waves is studied. As expected, for three-layer stratified fluid with background current, the first-order asymptotic solutions (linear wave solutions), dispersion relation and the second-order asymptotic solutions derived depend on not only the depths and densities of the three-layer fluid but also the background current of the fluids, and the second-order Stokes wave solutions of the associated elevations of the interfacial waves describe not only the second-order nonlinear wave-wave interactions between the interfacial waves but also the second-order nonlinear interactions between the interfacial waves and currents. It is also noted that the solutions obtained from the present work include the theoretical results derived by Chen et al (2005) as a special case. It also shows that with the given wave number k (real number) the interfacial waves may show Kelvin-Helmholtz instability.

Effect of nonlinear wave-current interaction on flow fields and hydrodynamic forces

A fifth-order theory for solving the problem of interaction between Stokes waves and exponential profile currents is proposed. The calculated flow fields are compared with measurements. Then the errors caused by the linear superposition method and approximate theory are discussed. It is found that the total wave-current field consists of pure wave, pure current and interaction components. The shear current not only directly changes the flow field, but also indirectly does sx, by changing the wave parameters due to wave-current interaction. The present theory can predict the wave kinematics on shear currents satisfactorily. The linear superposition method may give rise to more than 40% loading error in extreme conditions. When the apparent wave period is used and the Wheeler stretching method is adopted to extrapolate the current, application of the approximate theory is the best.

非平整运动海底上n层流动中波浪传播的Hamilton逼近

在海洋水域，界面波对大尺度变化流的作用是一种典型的分层流动现象。考虑一不可压缩、无黏的分层势流运动，建立了一个在非平整运动海底上的n层流体演化系统，并对其进行了Hamilton描述。每层流体具有各自的常密度、均匀流水平速度，其厚度由未扰动和扰动部分构成。相对于顶层流体的自由表面，刚性、运动的海底具有一般地形变化特征。在明确指出n层流体运动的控制方程和各层交界面上的运动学、动力学边界条件（包含各层交界面上张力效应）后，对该分层动力系统进行了Hamilton构造，即给出其正则方程和其下述的正则变量：各交界面位移和各交界面上的动量势密度差。

非平整、多孔介质海底上波浪传播的复合方程

为了反映近岸区域实际存在的多孔介质海底效应,并且考虑到波浪在刚性海底上传播模型的最新研究进展,运用Green第二恒等式建立了波浪在非平整、多孔介质海底上传播的复合方程.假设水深和多孔介质海底层厚度均由两种分量组成:慢变分量,其水平变化的长度尺度大于表面波的波长;快变分量,其水平变化的长度尺度与表面波的波长等阶,但其振幅小于表面波的振幅.另外,多孔介质层下部边界的快变分量比水深的快变分量小1个量级.针对水体层和多孔介质层,选择Green第二恒等式方法给出了波浪传播和渗透的复合方程,它在交接面上满足压力和垂直渗透速度的连续性条件,可充分考虑波数变化的一般连续性,并包含了某些著名的扩展型缓坡方程.

A New Model for Sediment Transport

The problem of predicting sediment transportation by water waves is treated analytically with the rate of wave energy dissipation or wave damping. With resorting to the theory of shallow water waves and the basis of Yamamoto’s Coulomb-damped poroelastic model, the Boussinesq-type equation has been derived over a variation depth bed. For convenience Cnoidal wave is just discussed, The Cnoidal wave with complex wave length and wave velocity, which are as a function of wave frequency, water depth, permeability, Poisson’s ratio and complex elastic moduli of bed soil, is applied to analyse the rate of sediment transportation. Considering the sediment transportation depended on the shear stress near-bed or the horizontal velocity, the conclusion of Yamamoto’s experiment in clay bed has been extended to general situation. It could be figured out that the model should provide a method to avoid the undistinguishable factors during sediment transport processes and relate mass transport with the sediment peculiarities.

海床对水表面波动态响应的研究

在设计各种各样的海工结构物时，必须考虑海洋波浪引起的海床变形乃至失稳问题。本文旨在通过波浪作用下海洋土动态响应的研究，对海洋土在各种加载条件下所呈现的动力学特点做全面细致的了解，揭示一些现象的力学机制，为工程设计提供可参考的科学依据。系统地研究了线性波和有限深底床相互作用下底床土层的动态响应。应用弱非弹性多孔介质模型，针对波浪衰减、底床中应力场分布以及土骨架位移等问题，进行了详细地分析。预测了在不同的波参数和土参数下，土床可能发生破坏的最大深度，分别分析了粗，细砂土床中渗滤作用和土颗粒之间的库仑摩擦对底床稳定性所带来的影响。通过对不同土质底床在波浪作用下所表现的动态特征，讨论了粉土床发生共振液化的力学机制，提出了共振液化发生的必要条件。考虑了非线性波和弱非弹性多孔介质的耦合，推导了在弱非弹性多孔介质上传播的浅水波方式，得到了依赖于土参数的椭圆余弦波波面方程，以及土床应力场和土骨架位移的关系式。根据浅水波相速度和衰减率的计算结果，分析了浅水波在不同土质底床上的传播特性，具体讨论了在椭圆余弦波作用下土床中孔隙水压力随波高和周期的变化关系，通过和线性波结果的比较分析，给出了该理论的适用范围，并得到他人实验结果的验证。分析了短峰和底床相互作用所引起的防波提失稳问题。给出了非完全反射防波堤前土床中的应力场分布，对短峰波所引起的底床液化势及剪切破坏进行了详细地讨论。针对不同土质底床，计算了底床最大破坏深度以及破坏区域随加载波周期、水深及入射角的变化关系。参照实际工程，讨论了考虑防波堤自重情况下防波堤的失稳，给出了敏感区域。

Applications of improved 2-D numerical wave tanks in wave breaking

Song and Banner (2002, henceforth referred to as SB02) used a numerical wave tank (developed by Drimer and Agnon, and further refined by Segre, henceforth referred to as DAS) to study the wave breaking in the deep water, and proposed a dimensionless breaking threshold that based on the behaviour of the wave energy modulation and focusing during the evolution of the wave group. In this paper, two modified DAS models are used to further test the SB02's results, the first one (referred to MDAS1) corrected many integral calculation errors appeared in the DAS code, and the second one (referred to MDAS2) replaced the linear boundary element approximation of DAS into the cubic element on the free surface. Researches show that the results of MDAS1 are the same with those of DAS for the simulations of deep water wave breaking, but, the different values of the wavemaker amplitude, the breaking time and the maximum local average energy growth rate delta(max) for the marginal breaking cases are founded by MDAS2 and MDAS1. However, MDAS2 still satisfies the SB02' s breaking threshold. Furthermore, MDAS1 is utilized to study the marginal breaking case in the intermediate water depth when wave passes over a submerged slope, where the slope is given by 1 : 500, 1 : 300, 1 : 150 or 1 : 100. It is found that the maximum local energy density U increases significantly if the slope becomes steeper, and the delta(max) decreases weakly and increases intensively for the marginal recurrence case and marginal breaking case respectively. SB02's breaking threshold is still valid for the wave passing over a submerged slope gentler than 1 : 100 in the intermediate water depth.

大型反倾岩体变形破坏机制及稳定性分析———以金沙江宽谷坝址龙蟠边坡为例

A large number of catastrophic accidents were aroused by the instability and destruction of anti-dip rock masses in the worldwide engineering projects, such as hydropower station, mine, railways and so on. Problems in relation to deformation and failure about anti-dip rock slopes are significant for engineering geology research. This dissertation takes the Longpan slope in the Jinsha River as a case to study the deformation mechanism of large-scale anti-dip rock masses and the slope stability analysis method. The primary conclusions are as follows. The Dale Reach of Jinsha River, from Longpan to the debouchment of Chongjiang tributary, is located in the southeastern margin of the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau. Longpan slope is the right embankment of Dale dam, it is only 26 km to the Shigu and 18 km to Tiger Leaping Gorge. The areal geology tectonic structures here area are complicated and blurry. Base on the information of geophysical exploration (CSAMT and seismology) and engineering geological investigation, the perdue tectonic pattern of Dale Reach is put forward for the first time in this paper. Due to the reverse slip of Longpan fault and normal left-rotation of Baihanchang fault, the old faulted valley came into being. The thick riverbed sediments have layered characters of different components and corresponding causes, which attribute to the sedimentary environments according with the new tectonic movements such as periodic mountain uplifting in middle Pleistocene. Longpan slope consists of anti-dip alternate sandstone and slate stratums, and the deformable volume is 6.5×107m3 approximately. It was taken for an ancient landslide or toppling failure in the past so that Dale dam became a vexed question. Through the latest field surveying, displacement monitoring and rock masses deforming characters analyses, the geological mechanism is actually a deep-seated gravitational bending deformation. And then the discrete element method is used to simulate the deforming evolution process, the conclusion accords very well with the geo-mechanical patterns analyses. In addition strength reduction method based on DEM is introduced to evaluate the factor of safety of anti-dip rock slope, and in accordance with the expansion way of the shear yielding zones, the progressive shear failure mechanism of large-scale anti-dip rock masses is proposed for the first time. As an embankment or a close reservoir bank to the lower dam, the stability of Longpan slope especially whether or not resulting in sliding with high velocity and activating water waves is a key question for engineering design. In fact it is difficult to decide the unified slip surface of anti-dip rock slope for traditional methods. The author takes the shear yielding zones acquired form the discrete element strength reduction calculation as the potential sliding surface and then evaluates the change of excess pore pressure and factor of stability of the slope generated by rapid drawdown of ponded water. At the same time the dynamic response of the slope under seismic loading is simulated through DEM numerical modeling, the following results are obtained. Firstly the effective effect of seismic inertia force is resulting in accumulation of shear stresses. Secondly the discontinuous structures are crucial to wave transmission. Thirdly the ultimate dynamic response of slope system takes place at the initial period of seismic loading. Lastly but essentially the effect of earthquake load to bringing on deformation and failure of rock slope is the coupling effect of shear stresses and excess pore water pressure accumulation. In view of limitations in searching the critical slip surface of rock slope of the existing domestic and international software for limit equilibrium slope stability analyses, this article proposes a new method named GA-Sarma Algorithm for rock slope stability analyses. Just as its name implies, GA-Sarma Algorithm bases on Genetic Algorithm and Sarma method. GA-Sarma Algorithm assumes the morphology of slip surface to be a broken line with traceability to extend along the discontinuous surface structures, and the slice boundaries is consistent with rock mass discontinuities such as rock layers, faults, cracks, and so on. GA-Sarma Algorithm is revolutionary method that is suitable for global optimization of the critical slip surface for rock slopes. The topics and contents including in this dissertation are closely related to the difficulties in practice, the main conclusions have been authorized by the engineering design institute. The research work is very meaningful and useful for the engineering construction of Longpan hydropower station.

Fourier Transform Method for Measuring the Micro Amplitu of Water Surface Waves

采用一种非接触的光学方法傅立叶变换莫尔法(Fourier transform method),结合数字图像处理技术,对微幅振荡的水表面波的振幅进行测量.它是对全场中每一个像素点进行测量,比接触测量法具有更高的灵敏度.它为微幅水表面波振幅的测量提供了一种手段.通过将计算机生成的周期性光栅图像经投影机直接投影到被测物体的参考平面,经CCD摄像头、图像板捕捉存储形成数字化的光栅图像,利用傅立叶变换莫尔法处理光栅图像,从而获得包含有水表面波的振幅的相位信息,再经适当的几何变换获得振幅信息.我们在垂直振荡装置上进行了不同激励频率和不同振幅的表面波的振幅测量.

Space-frequency coupling, conical waves, and small-scale filamentation in water

Numerical simulations of fs laser propagation in water have been made to explain the small-scale filaments in water we have observed by a nonlinear fluorescence technique. Some analytical descriptions combined with numerical simulations show that a space-frequency coupling mainly from the interplay among self-phase modulation, dispersion and phase mismatching will reshape the laser beam into a conical wave which plays a major role of energy redistribution and can prevent laser beam from self-guiding over a long distance. An effective group velocity dispersion is introduced to explain the pulse broadening and compression in the filamentation. (c) 2005 American Institute of Physics.

Statistical distribution of depth-integrated local horizontal momentum for second-order random ocean waves in finite water depth

Based on the second-order random wave solutions of water wave equations in finite water depth, statistical distributions of the depth- integrated local horizontal momentum components are derived by use of the characteristic function expansion method. The parameters involved in the distributions can be all determined by the water depth and the wave-number spectrum of ocean waves. As an illustrative example, a fully developed wind-generated sea is considered and the parameters are calculated for typical wind speeds and water depths by means of the Donelan and Pierson spectrum. The effects of nonlinearity and water depth on the distributions are also investigated.

Statistical distribution of wave-surface elevation for second-order random directional ocean waves in finite water depth

Based on the second-order random wave solutions of water wave equations in finite water depth, a statistical distribution of the wave-surface elevation is derived by using the characteristic function expansion method. It is found that the distribution, after normalization of the wave-surface elevation, depends only on two parameters. One parameter describes the small mean bias of the surface produced by the second-order wave-wave interactions. Another one is approximately proportional to the skewness of the distribution. Both of these two parameters can be determined by the water depth and the wave-number spectrum of ocean waves. As an illustrative example, we consider a fully developed wind-generated sea and the parameters are calculated for various wind speeds and water depths by using Donelan and Pierson spectrum. It is also found that, for deep water, the dimensionless distribution reduces to the third-order Gram-Charlier series obtained by Longuet-Higgins [J. Fluid Mech. 17 (1963) 459]. The newly proposed distribution is compared with the data of Bitner [Appl. Ocean Res. 2 (1980) 63], Gaussian distribution and the fourth-order Gram-Charlier series, and found our distribution gives a more reasonable fit to the data. (C) 2002 Elsevier Science B.V. All rights reserved.

NONLINEAR GRAVITY-WAVES IN DEEP-WATER

In consideration of the problem on the boundary condition of nonlinear free water wave, coordinate transform is used to handle the free boundary. Supposing the solution form be the traveling wave, the ordinary differential equations of the one-order autonomous system with two variables are caused, then expanding the nonlinear terms at the equilibrium point with the Taylor expansion, we obtained the solution to traveling wave. The linear approximate equation near the equilibrium point is the small amplitude wave. A new nonlinear periodic traveling wave and nonlinear dispersion relation are shown when expanding to the second-order terms. A conclusion that the expansion of dispersion relation does not contain any odd-power terms of wave steepness and because of the nonlinear effort an oscillate structure is produced in the vertical direction is drawn.