Some problems of edge waves and standing waves on beaches

Some problems of edge waves and standing waves on beaches are examined.

The nonlinear interaction of a wave normally incident on a sloping beach with a subharmonic edge wave is studied. A two-timing expansion is used in the full nonlinear theory to obtain the modulation equations which describe the evolution of the waves. It is shown how large amplitude edge waves are produced; and the results of the theory are compared with some recent laboratory experiments.

Traveling edge waves are considered in two situations. First, the full linear theory is examined to find the finite depth effect on the edge waves produced by a moving pressure disturbance. In the second situation, a Stokes' expansion is used to discuss the nonlinear effects in shallow water edge waves traveling over a bottom of arbitrary shape. The results are compared with the ones of the full theory for a uniformly sloping bottom.

The finite amplitude effects for waves incident on a sloping beach, with perfect reflection, are considered. A Stokes' expansion is used in the full nonlinear theory to find the corrections to the dispersion relation for the cases of normal and oblique incidence.

Finally, an abstract formulation of the linear water waves problem is given in terms of a self adjoint but nonlocal operator. The appropriate spectral representations are developed for two particular cases.

Study of ion movements in isolated chicken retinas during spreading depression

Spreading depression (SD) is a phenomenon observed in several sections of vertebrate central nervous system. It can occur spontaneously or be evoked by a variety of stimuli, and consists of a wave of depression of the normal electrical activity of the nervous tissue which spreads slowly in all directions in the tissue. This wave of depression is accompanied by several concomitants including ion movements. All the concomitants of SD can be explained by an increase in the sodium permeability of the plasma membranes of cellular elements involved in this phenomenon.

In the chicken retina, SD is accompanied by a transparency change which can be detected with the naked eye. The isolated retina is a thin (0.1 mm) membrane in which the extracellular fluid quickly and completely equilibrates with the incubation solutions. This preparation was therefore used to study the ion movements during SD by measuring and comparing the ion contents and the extracellular space (ECS) of retinas incubated in various solutions of which some inhibited SD, whereas others allowed this phenomenon to occur.

The present study has shown that during SD there is a shift of extracellular sodium into the intracellular compartment of the retina, a release of intracellular K and a decrease in the magnitude of ECS. These results are in agreement with previous postulates about SD, although the in vitro experimental condition makes the ion movements appear larger and the loss of ECS smaller than observed in the intact cortical tissue. The movements of Na and K, in opposite directions, are reversible. The development and magnitudes of SD is very little affected by deprivation of the oxygen supply.

It was established that the inward sodium shift is not a consequence of an arrest of the Na-pump. It can be prevented, together with SD by the membrane stabilizers, magnesium and procaine. Spreading depression and the ion movements are incompletely inhibited by tetrodotoxin, which blocks the sodium influx into nerve fibers during the action potential. The replacement of Na in the bathing solution by Li does not prevent SD, which is accompanied by Li accumulation in the intracellular compartment. From these experiments and others it was concluded that the mechanism underlying SD and the ion shifts is an increase in the sodium permeability of cell membranes.