Wind-wave propagation over flooded, vegetated land /

"October 1977."

Longshore sand transport study at Channel Islands Harbor, California /

"April 1981."

Base map analysis of coastal changes using aerial photography /

"November 1981."

Design of riprap revetments for protection against wave attack /

"December 1981."

Empirical guidelines for use of irregular wave model to estimate nearshore wave height /

"July 1982."

Computer algorithm to calculate longshore energy flux and wave direction from a two pressure sensor array /

"August 1982."

Riprap stability scale effects /

"August 1982."

Forcing regression through a given point using any familiar computational routine /

"March 1983."

Wave transformation at isolated vertical piles in shallow water /

"March 1978."

Reanalysis of wave runup on structures and beaches /

Example problems and methods of data analysis, together with general observations, are given. Smooth-slope runup results for both breaking and nonbreaking waves are presented in a set of curves similar to but revised from those in the Shore Protection Manual (SPM) (U.S. Army, Corps of Engineerings, Coastal Engineering Research Center, 1977). The curves are for structure slopes fronted by horizontal and 1 on 10 bottom slopes. The range of values of d sub s/H' sub o was extended to d sub s/H' sub o = 8; relative depth (d sub s/H' sub o) is important even for d sub s/H' sub o> 3 for waves which do not break on the structure slope. Rough-slope results are presented in similar curves if sufficient data were available. Otherwise, results are given as values of r, which is the ratio of rough-slope runup to smooth-slope runup. Scale-effect in runup is discussed.

Prototype scale mooring load and transmission tests for a floating tire breakwater /

Prototype scale tests of the mooring load and wave transmission characteristics of a floating tire breakwater were conducted in the large wave tank at the Coastal Engineering Research Center. Standard Goodyear Tire and Rubber Co. 18-tire modules connected to form breakwaters, 4 and 6 modules (8.5 and 12.8 meters, 28 and 42 feet) wide in the direction of wave advance, were tested in water depths of 2 and 4 meters (6.56 and 13.12 feet). Monochromatic waves with a 2.64- to 8.25-second period range and heights up to 1.4 meters (4.6 feet) were used in the tests. Test results indicate that wave transmission is mainly a function of the breakwater width to incident wavelength ratio with a slight dependence on the incident wave height. However, the mooring forces are mainly a function of the incident wave height with only a slight dependence on the incident wavelength and breakwater width. Recommended design curves for the wave transmission coefficient versus breakwater width to wavelength ratio and mooring load as a function of incident wave height are presented. (Author).

Geometry of profiles across Inner Continental Shelves of the Atlantic and Gulf coasts of the United States /

Along most of the U.S. east and gulf coasts from Long Island to the Mexican Border, bottom profiles extending over the Inner Continental Shelves normal from the coast display a characteristic two-sector shape. Near the coast, the 'shoreface' profile sector is steep and concave-up; the seaward 'ramp' sector is planar with a gradual slope away from the coast. As part of the Beach Evaluation Program at this Center, 9 profiles extending from the coast 30.5 km (19 miles) seaward at each of 49 localities were averaged to mathematically characterize the profiles and to develop and test criteria for discriminating among groups of profiles. Results indicate Inner Continental Shelf profiles can be mathematically defined by 4 parameters: a = ramp slope (0 - 0.00107); b = depth of the ramp at the shoreline, when the ramp is extended as a straight line below the shoreface sector (0 - 24.7 meters, 0 - 81 feet); c = distance from the shoreline to the shoreface-ramp boundary (0.2 - 20.6 km, 0.12 - 12.9 miles); and f = index of concavity of the shoreface sector (0.21 - 1.72). Values in parentheses are the range of values obtained for the 49 averaged profiles. An equation was developed to define bottom depth as a function of distance from shore incorporating these four parameters. Computed depths using the equation were found to be generally within 5% of actual profile depths. In most cases, no relationship was found between the geometric characteristics of the shoreface and the ramp.

Sand ripple growth in an oscillatory-flow water tunnel /

The development of sand ripples in an oscillatory-flow water tunnel was observed in 104 laboratory experiments approximating conditions at the seabed under steady progressive surface waves. The period, T, and amplitude, a, of the water motion were varied over wide ranges. Three quartz sands were used, with mean grain diameters, D = 0.55, 0.21, and 0.18 millimeter. In 24 experiments, with the bed initially leveled, T was reduced until ripples appeared, and their development to final equilibrium form was observed without further change in T. The remaining 80 experiments investigated the response of previously established bed forms to changes in T or a or both. The ripple length, lambda, and height, eta, were measured from photos, except when bed forms were three dimensional.

Relation between immersed weight and volume rates of longshore transport /

As presently used, the immersed weight rate, I sub l, is the volume rate, Q, of longshore transport, multiplied by a constant. For use in engineering problems, I sub l must be converted back to the equivalent Q. The I sub l formulation may be important where the unit weight of sand differs significantly from the unit weight of sand at the open-coast sites contributing data to the design curve. Increase in void ratio may result in a 10- to 20-percent increase in actual (as compared to predicted) shoaling volumes where sand accumulates in protected water. Void ratio should be measured in field studies of longshore transport.

Sediments, shallow subbottom structure, and sand resources of the inner continental shelf, central Delmarva Peninsula /

"June 1979."