Frequency of shearing increases growth of fibre and changes objective and subjective attributes of Angora goat fleeces

The impact of genotype and of frequency and timing of shearing, on mohair attributes and production of modern Angora goats was studied. Goats in the southern hemisphere grazed pastures between February 2004 and 2006. There were seven shearing treatments by three genetic strains with four or eight replicates of individual goats. Treatments were: three different 6-month shearing intervals and two of 12-month shearing intervals with different months of shearing, a 7-month winter shearing interval and a 3-month shearing interval. Genetic strain was based on sire line: 1·0 South African; 1·0 Texan; and Mixed 0·5 South African and 0·5 Texan. Annual greasy mohair production was 5·08 kg, and average clean fleece production was 4·37 kg. The Angora goats produced an annual clean fleece equivalent to 0·122 of their mean fleece-free live weight which was equal to 0·34 g/kg/day. Measurements were analysed over the period of spring 2004 shearing to spring 2005 shearing, excluding the June–December shearing treatment. Increased frequency of shearing increased fleece growth and affected 13 objective and subjective attributes of mohair that were evaluated including clean washing yield, fibre diameter and fibre diameter variation, incidence of medullated fibres, staple length, fibre curvature, crimp frequency, style, staple definition, staple fibre entanglement and staple tip shape. The direction of these effects were generally favourable and for most attributes the magnitude of the response was linear and commercially important. Each additional shearing resulted in an additional 149 g of clean mohair representing 0·034 of the annual clean mohair production. This increase was associated with a 0·6 cm increase in staple length and 0·32 μm increase in mean fibre diameter. In conclusion, Angora goats shorn less frequently grew less mohair that was more likely to be entangled in spring. Managers of Angora goats should take note of these findings.

Cashmere production and fleece attributes associated with farm of origin, age and sex of goat in Australia

Differences in cashmere production and fleece attributes associated with farm of origin, age and sex were quantified for commercial Australian cashmere goat enterprises. From 11 farms in four states, 1147 does and 97 wethers were monitored, representing 1- to 13-year-old goats. Individual clean cashmere production ranged from 21 to 389 g, with a mean ± standard deviation value of 134 ± 62 g. The mean cashmere production of 2-year-old does from different farms varied from 69 to 225 g and averaged 141 g. Mean ± s.d. greasy fleece weight was 394 ± 123 g, clean washing yield was 90.8 ± 4.1%, clean cashmere yield 33.4 ± 9.4%, cashmere fibre diameter 16.4 ± 1.6 µm, fibre curvature 48 ± 8.7 degrees/mm and staple length 8.7 ± 2.1 cm. There were large, commercially significant differences between farms for clean cashmere weight, mean fibre diameter and other attributes of cashmere. These were much larger than the effects of age and sex. Farm and age accounted for 42 to 67% of the variation in clean cashmere production, mean fibre diameter, fibre curvature, staple length and clean washing yield. Farm of origin affected clean cashmere yield, accounting for 24% of the variation. Sex of the goats had only a minor effect on the staple length of cashmere. The responses to age of clean cashmere weight, mean fibre diameter and the inverse of fibre curvature are very similar. Generally, cashmere production and mean fibre diameter increased with age. For the majority of farms, cashmere fibre curvature declined in a curvilinear manner with increases in age of goat. There were large differences in cashmere staple length from different farms, with means ranging from 7 to 12 cm. Between 1 and 2 years of age, the staple length of cashmere demonstrated a constant proportional increase. At ages older than 2 years, staple length either declined or increased by less than 1 cm with age, depending on the farm of origin. This study demonstrates that there are large gains in productivity that can be achieved from Australian cashmere goats. A better understanding of on-farm factors that influence cashmere production would enable all producers to optimise their production systems.

Fibre production by beef cows

Cattle grow and shed fibre which assists them adapt to seasonal changes in the environment. In the absence of cattle fibre production data for southern Australia, Angus, Hereford, Simmental and Limousin cows and crosses between these breeds grazing perennial pastures at Hamilton, Victoria were sampled in late winter. The fibre-growing area on the sides of cattle was measured, fibre sampled at the mid-side site and the sampling area determined. Fibre was tested for fibre diameter distribution, clean washing yield and fibre length measured. Cows were 3-7 years of age, liveweights were 412-712 kg and the mean fibre-growing area was 2.2 m². This produced an average 682 g of total fibre (range 3461-175 g). The mean fibre diameter of all fibres was 51.7 μm (range 43-62 μm) and 18% of fibres were 36 μm (range 6-39%). The clean washing yield was 92.4% (range 87.4-95.8%). Fibre length averaged 21 mm. Increasing the age, liveweight and condition score of cows and increasing weight of clean fibre were associated with significant increases in mean fibre diameter. Breed of cattle did not affect fibre production (P > 0.1) but did affect mean fibre diameter (P < 0.05). The quantity of fibre production indicates potential for low value textile production. The high level of total fibre production, twice that of an earlier report, and fibre shedding from cattle suggests that white fibre-producing animals such as Merino sheep, Angora and cashmere goats and alpaca should avoid using cattle-handling facilities, particularly in the month before shearing.

Production, properties and processing of American bison (Bison bison) wool grown in southern Australia

American bison grow a thick coat of fibres which assists them to withstand severe climatic conditions. Bison fibre was traditionally used in textiles by native North Americans. This study aimed to quantify the production, fibre attributes and dehairing processing of bison fibre produced from bison grazed in north-eastern Victoria. Three age/sex classes were sampled (n = 16) at seven body positions in spring. The fibre growing area was measured. Fibre was tested for diameter distribution, clean washing yield, proportion of fine fibres <36µm and fine fibre length, and processed by cashmere dehairing. Bison were 12 years of age, liveweights 160450 kg and had mean fibre growing area of 1.4 m². They produced an average 1184 g (range 5301640 g) of fine fibre with mean fibre diameter 18.5µm, clean washing yield 76.5%, wax content 9.8%, suint content 14.5%, clean fine fibre yield 56.4%, fine fibre length 37 mm and fibre curvature was 93/mm. Mid-side fibre had a crimp frequency of 6.5/cm and mean resistance to compression of 6.6 kPa. Fibre had a tenacity of 8.7 cN/tex and an extension of 39.3%. Restricted maximum likelihood mixed model analysis showed age/sex class and sampling site significantly affected all fibre attributes. Finer and longer fibre was produced in anterior sites and in younger bison. Fibre curvature declined 5.3°/mm for each 1-µm increase in mean fibre diameter. Dehaired fibre had a mean fibre diameter of 17.8 µm and mid-length of 28 mm, suitable for woollen spinning. The production by bison of coats containing significant amounts of fibre indicates that careful harvesting of fibre could form an important source of income in bison enterprises.

Variation in the whiteness and brightness of white Australian cashmere associated with farm of origin and fibre attributes

While white cashmere is preferred by processors, its whiteness and brightness is affected by country of origin, amino acid composition, nutrition and cashmere production of goats. This work aimed to quantify the factors which affect the whiteness and brightness of 36 batches of processed Australian white cashmere sourced from nine different farms. The cashmere was tested for tristimulus values brightness (Y) and whiteness, as measured by yellowness (Y-Z). Linear models, relating Y and Y-Z were fitted to farm of origin and other objective measurements. Mean attributes (range) were: mean fibre diameter, 16.9 µm (13.9–20.4 μm); fibre curvature, 45°/mm (31–59°/mm); clean washing yield, 91.3% (79.5–97.3%); Y, 78.7 (74.7–82.2); Y-Z, 11.9 (10.3–13.6). Farm alone accounted for 72% of the variation in Y and 65% of the variation in Y-Z (P < 0.001). Once farm had been taken into account only fibre curvature (P = 0.003) was significant in predicting Y and only clean washing yield (P = 0.047) affected Y-Z. Neither the proportion of the fleece present as guard hair (clean cashmere yield) nor cashmere staple length was a significant determinant of Y or Y-Z. For each 10°/mm increase in fibre curvature Y increased 1.3 units. For each 10% increase in clean washing yield Y-Z declined 0.9 units. Variations in Y and Y-Z among farms were probably related to differences in geographic and climatic conditions and were significantly correlated to cashmere production. The effect of clean washing yield was probably related to a reduction in suint content.

Variation in the whiteness and brightness of mohair associated with farm, season, and mohair attributes

This work aimed to quantify factors affecting the reflectance attributes of Australian white mohair sourced from five different farms and to evaluate the effect of season and year on mohair grown by goats of known genetic origin in a replicated study. For the season study the mohair was harvested every three months for two years. All goats and their fleeces were weighed. Mid-side samples were tested for fibre diameter attributes, clean washing yield (CWY), staple length (SL) and for tristimulus values X, Y, Z and Y-Z. For the farm study (n = 196), linear models, relating Y, Z and Y-Z were fitted to farm of origin and other objective measurements. For the season and year study (n = 176), data were analysed by ANOVA and then by linear analysis. The variation accounted for by farm alone was: X, 22%; Y, 24%; Z, 12%; Y-Z, 30% (P < 0.001). Once farm had been taken into account, the regression models for X, Y and Z had similar significant terms: mean fibre diameter (MFD), CWY, SL and fibre diameter CV; and correlation coefficients (057–0.65). For Y-Z, in addition to farm only MFD was significant (P = 1.8 × 10−9). While X, Y, Z and Y-Z were significantly associated with clean fleece weight (CFwt), CFwt was not significant in any final model. Season affected mohair Y (P = 2.5 × 10−24), Z (P = 2.3 × 10−20) and Y-Z (P = 6.8 × 10−22). Autumn grown mohair had higher Y and Z, and summer grown mohair had lower Z than mohair grown in other seasons. This resulted in summer grown mohair having the highest Y-Z and winter grown mohair having the lowest Y-Z than mohair grown in other seasons. The differences between years in Y, Z and Y-Z were significant but not large. When Y, Z and Y-Z were modeled with season and other mohair attributes, MFD, CWY, CFwt, incidence of medullated fibre (Med) and sire were also significant terms. This model accounted for 62.1% of the variance. Over the range of Med (0.3–4.2%), Y-Z increased by 11 T units. Increasing CFwt 0.5 kg was associated with a decline in Y-Z of 7.5 T units. The variation in Y, Z and Y-Z associated with sire effects were respectively 2.66, 3.77, and 1.04 T units. In the farm and the season studies increasing MFD was associated with lower Y and Z and higher Y-Z. The extent of the differences in tristimulus values between seasons and years, were unlikely to be of commercial importance. The extent of the differences between farms, and to variations in MFD and Med were large enough to be of commercial importance. Clean mohair colour was artefactually biased by MFD.

Lifetime and fleece quality traits associated with the occurrence of entangled mohair staples

Staple entanglement in mohair fleeces occurs when adhesions form between longer and faster growing fibres and shorter and slower growing fibres. This results in accentuated crimp of the longer fibres and an "apparently" reduced staple length. The appearance in the fleece of Angora goats of staple entanglements can lead to the downgrading of the mohair to poorer style and shorter length grades, resulting in up to 60% price reductions. This study examined how staple entanglement score (SES) is related to lifetime factors of Angora goats, and how this relationship can be explained by variations in animal size and fleece attributes. SES was scored using a five-point scale: 5, long free fibres easily separated as no adhesions; 4, some adhesions between fibres; 3, some effort to separate fibres as many adhesions; 2, many adhesions, staple fibres entangled, shortening of staple; 1, very entangled and shortened staple. Measurements were made over 9 shearing periods on a population of Angora castrated males (wethers) goats representing the current range and diversity of genetic origins in Australia, including South African, Texan and interbred admixtures of these and Australian sources. Data on genetic origin, sire, dam, date of birth, dam age, birth weight, birth parity, weaning weight, live weight, fleece growth and fleece attributes were recorded. Two restricted maximum likelihood (REML) models were developed to relate SES with age, animal lifetime factors, fleece quality attributes and live weight. One model allowed fleece quality and live weight traits in the model and the other excluded these traits. Staple entanglement was almost eliminated in mohair harvested from goats shorn every 3. months but was common in mohair from goats shorn twice or once per year. SES was less in goats of Texan genetic background, and was generally less in winter grown mohair. SES was higher for mohair with low fibre curvature (FC, 10°/mm) and a high clean washing yield (CWY, 90%) compared with mohair with low FC and lower CWY (80%), and compared with all mohair with high FC (18°/mm). The response of SES to shearing regime, genetic background, shearing season, age of goat and a response to dam age were almost identical whether or not an adjustment was made for CWY and FC. There was a moderate amount of variability due to sires and individuals. We can conclude that a large part of these effects observed, namely breed, dam age, sire, and a component of the FC and CWY effects, are genetic. Mohair producers can manage the genetic effects by careful selection of sires, especially avoiding those with low CWY or high FC, and avoiding sires with higher levels of staple entanglement or that have produced progeny with higher levels of staple entanglement. Also, unidentified environmental effects are affecting staple entanglement, although a lack of a live weight change effect on entanglement indicates that this effect might not be due to nutrition. © 2013 Elsevier B.V.

Contribution of objective and subjective attributes to the variation in the whiteness and brightness of commercial mohair sale lots

Colour properties are measured prior to the sale of merino wool as they are of commercial importance when greasy wool is sold and when wool is dyed. With the paucity of knowledge of the colour properties of commercial mohair, this study aimed to identify and quantify the factors affecting the brightness (Y) and yellowness (Y-Z) values of commercial lots of Australian mohair. The research database comprised 520 sale lots (>500,000 kg mohair), which had tristimulus tests, and was sold during the period 2001–2009. Mohair was subjectively classed and sale lots objectively tested using international standard methods for mean fibre diameter (MFD, μm), fibre diameter coefficient of variation (%), International Wool Testing Organization (IWTO) clean wool base (IWTO yield, %w/w), vegetable matter (VM, %w/w) and the tristimulus values X, Y and Z (T units). The tristimulus values of Australian mohair were affected by the objective measurements of MFD, VM%, the subjective classing of stain, cotting, kemp and length and by the year and selling season. Variation in Y was more easily predicted with 90.5% of variance explained by the best model compared with variation in Y-Z, where the best model explained 51.6% of the total variance. Visually assessed properties of the mohair were very important in separating mohair of different Y properties, accounting for almost 80% of the total variance, but were far less important in accounting for the variance in Y-Z, accounting for about 9–10% of the total variance. The most important effects on the Y of mohair were associated with subjectively determined fault categories determined before the sale of mohair. In particular, stain fault explained about two-thirds of the variance in brightness of mohair sale lots. Stained mohair had much lower brightness than mohair free of stain but stain fault explained very little of the variation in yellowness of mohair sale lots. The extent of the differences in tristimulus values between seasons and years were not large for Y but were more important for yellowness (Y-Z), and these effects are likely to be of commercial importance. Generally, brightness decreased and yellowness increased as MFD increased up to about 30 μm. Both cotting and kemp fault were associated with reduced brightness and increased yellowness. The effects of VM% on tristimulus values were small. IWTO yield was associated with changes in tristimulus values, but in the best model, IWTO yield was not a significant determinant. This study indicates that commercial Australian fleece (nonfaulted) mohair was essentially white. Faulted mohair on the other hand exhibited poorer colour characteristics. The mohair subjectively identified as stained prior to sale comprised all the mohair which would be regarded as not white, and this investigation indicates that the effect of staining is on the brightness of mohair rather than the Y-Z measurement. Unlike the situation with merino wool, there was little relationship between the naturally occurring contaminants, as measured by the IWTO washing yield, and either Y or Y-Z.