Ethical fashion : the human stories driving a fashion movement

This paper examines and compares two stories, the novel Helen Fleetwood (Elizabeth, 1841) and the film China Blue (Teddy Bear Films, 2005), in relation to the Ethical Fashion movement. In 2005, more than 50 designers from around the world took part in The Ethical Fashion Show in Paris. This movement dictates that designers ensure that their garments are produced in an ethical manner, rather than support the ‘sweatshop’ environments of some industrialists determined to make a profit at the expense of workers rights. The momentum of the Ethical Fashion movement suggests that it is possible for fashion to be ethical, desirable and profitable in the 21st century. In 1841, after extensive research, Charlotte Elizabeth Tonna (using the pseudonym Charlotte Elizabeth) began to write about the atrocities of the factory system in industrialised England. Her novel, Helen Fleetwood, is one of the earliest examples of this kind of work, providing the reader with an extensive insight into the life of English factory workers in the mid-19th century. The story is about the Widow Green and her orphan dependents who are led, through circumstance, to leave their rural home and take up employment in the cotton mills of Manchester, with the hope of having an independent existence. Instead they discover the realities of factory life – extremely long hours, unsafe conditions, poor wages and a steady decline into extreme poverty. In his film China Blue (Teddy Bear Films, 2005), director Micha X. Peled tells an alarmingly similar tale set in 21st century China. This ‘docu-drama’ (a recreation from actual interviews and diary entries) tells the story of ‘Little Jasmine’ who leaves her family’s farm to pursue an independent life in Southern China’s manufacturing district. It is not long before the realities of modern factory life are revealed to the teenage ‘heroine’ – crowded dormitories, long working hours, arbitrary fines and wages that do not compare with those of workers in the Western world. While much of the human story remains unchanged, there have been significant improvements in technology and safety in the last 165 years that result in the reality that not all clothing manufacture is performed in ‘sweatshop’ conditions. After a recent visit to a manufacturing plant in China, consultation with peers in the industry and having worked in the Australian fashion industry for many years, the author compares these stories with her own experiences.

Manufacturing challenges with fabrication of large size mechanical harmonic drives

In truck manufacturing, the exhaust and air inlet pipes are specialized equipment that requires highly skilled, heavy machinery and small batch production methods. This paper describes a project to develop the computer numerically controlled (CNC) pipe bending process for a truck component manufacturer. The company supplies a huge range of heavy duty truck parts to the domestic market and is a significant supplier in Australia. The company has been using traditional methods of machine assisted manual pipe bending techniques. In a drive of continuous improvement, the company has acquired a pre-owned CNC bending machine capable of bending pipes automatically up to 25 bends. However, due to process mismatch, this machine is only used for single bending operation. The researchers studied the bending system and changed the manufacturing process. Using an example exhaust pipe as the benchmark, a significant drop of manufacturing lead time from 70 minutes to 40 minutes for each pipe was demonstrated. There was also a decrease of material cost due to the multiple bends part in one piece without cutting excessive materials for each single bend like it used to be.

Manufacturing challenges with fabrication of large size mechanical harmonic drives

Mechanical harmonic transmissions are relatively new kind of drives having several unusual features. For example, they can provide reduction ratio up to 500:1 in one stage, have very small teeth module compared to conventional drives and very large number of teeth (up to 1000) on a flexible gear. If for conventional drives manufacturing methods are well-developed, fabrication of large size harmonic drives presents a challenge. For example, how to fabricate a thin shell of 1.7m in diameter and wall thickness of 30mm having high precision external teeth at one end and internal splines at the other end? It is so flexible that conventional fabrication methods become unsuitable. In this paper special fabrication methods are discussed that can be used for manufacturing of large size harmonic drive components. They include electro-slag welding and refining, the use of special expandable devices to locate and hold a flexible gear, welding peripheral parts of disks with wear resistant materials with subsequent machining and others. These fabrication methods proved to be effective and harmonic drives built with the use of these innovative technologies have been installed on heavy metallurgical equipment and successfully tested.

Factors affecting new project delays in Saudi Arabian manufacturing organisations

Delay in the delivery of manufacturing projects is a major problem in manufacturing industries. This research investigates the factors that influence the lead time of new projects in manufacturing organisations. Employing a questionnaire survey and interview methodologies, this study collected data from five leading manufacturing organisations as well as their suppliers and contractors in Saudi Arabia to examine what, how and why the new project implementation delay occurs. Results show that the main factors contributing to manufacturing delays are related to people and material. On the other hand, social, political and cultural factors were the least significant factors as per the outcome of this study. Views of manufacturers, suppliers and contractors regarding causes of delays have also been analysed.

Global Value Chain Linkages of Manufacturing Export Firms: A Study of The Kannur Home Textile Industry

The literature on the involvement of developing countries in trade has focused on the effects of different aspects of globalization on firms, regions and countries. The study attempts to examine how an export based industry, locallyembedded and originated on the basis of regional strengths has been inserted into the global trade framework. Though the unit of analysis is the manufacturing export firm in the region of Kannur, it represents the entire home textile export industry from the state of Kerala, as close to 90% of fabric exports in home furnishing material, textiles for upholstery and decoration and stitched or fused, and branded made ups are from the region. From a global perspective, how developing countries face newer trade restrictions and overcome non quota barriers by firm and region specific activities within a value chain framework is a major research area, which has already contributions from the Ludhiana woolen cluster (Tewari,1999 ) and the Tirupur cluster in India (Cawthorne, 1995). The study contributes to the value chain literature by examining the governance and upgrading as well as how firms benefit from linkages. India has a number of export oriented agglomerations or regions where firms have been serving export markets for many years. In many cases it is no longer the supply side policy actions that determine how they are able to penetrate new markets or expand existing market share. Based on this study it becomes possible to understand how the global value chain operates in these different industries to examine whether there is a danger of immiserisation of growth or low road growth

Globalisation and manufacturing strategy in the TCF industry

Purpose – The textiles, clothing, and footwear (TCF) industry has struggled in Australia since the government commenced dismantling tariffs. By sourcing from Asia, middlemen undercut established suppliers, and retail chains set benchmark low prices with their imported “house” labels. The policy-makers predicted that local producers would become more efficient, and export to make up for lost sales, but the media paints a picture of rising imports, retrenchments, and factory closures. The research objective was to discover what strategies the survivors (actually) employ in adapting to the pressures of globalisation.

Design/methodology/approach – More than 30 companies were involved in the study, ranging from small family businesses to subsidiaries of big multinationals. Each case study was based on an interview with a senior executive, normally followed by a plant tour. This methodology suits a fresh topic, as it avoids preconceptions and imposes no bounds.

Findings – Results show that the policy change was based on “pie in the sky” forecasts. Increasingly, TCF production is transferred to cheap offshore locations, generally via subcontracting plus the “badging” of foreign designs. To survive, local factories should focus on quality and customer service, preferably in niche markets (like uniforms), or for specific customer groups, and develop technologically advanced products. A move down the supply chain into retailing can also assist. Large multinational corporations that engage in foreign direct investment dominate the management literature.

Originality/value – This paper presents a different perspective, neglected in international operations management, whereby domestically oriented businesses attempt to defend themselves against the adverse consequences of globalisation.

Core-spun carbon nanotube yarn supercapacitors for wearable electronic textiles

Linear (fiber or yarn) supercapacitors have demonstrated remarkable cyclic electrochemical performance as power source for wearable electronic textiles. The challenges are, first, to scale up the linear supercapacitors to a length that is suitable for textile manufacturing while their electrochemical performance is maintained or preferably further improved and, second, to develop practical, continuous production technology for these linear supercapacitors. Here, we present a core/sheath structured carbon nanotube yarn architecture and a method for one-step continuous spinning of the core/sheath yarn that can be made into long linear supercapacitors. In the core/sheath structured yarn, the carbon nanotubes form a thin surface layer around a highly conductive metal filament core, which serves as current collector so that charges produced on the active materials along the length of the supercapacitor are transported efficiently, resulting in significant improvement in electrochemical performance and scale up of the supercapacitor length. The long, strong, and flexible threadlike supercapacitor is suitable for production of large-size fabrics for wearable electronic applications.

Ultrafine wools: comfort and handle properties for next-to-skin knitwear and manufacturing performance

This study aimed to quantify the skin comfort and handle properties of a range of wool fabrics produced from ultrafine wool (13.7–15.1 µm) and in doing so determine if differences in fiber diameter and staple crimp frequency (5.3–7.1 crimps/cm) were important in these properties. The fabrics were evaluated using a range of subjective and objective measurement techniques, including the Wool ComfortMeter, the Wool HandleMeter and in wearer trials. This work indicated that single jersey fabrics made from ultrafine wool are approaching the limit of objective and subjective evaluation of next-to-skin comfort. The results from the Wool ComfortMeter, Wool HandleMeter and the wearer trial show that there were no significant effects that can be attributed to wool staple crimp (fiber curvature) in these ultrafine wool fabrics. The work also demonstrated a difference in the manufacturing response when knitted fabric made from wools of different fiber diameter (13.7–23.7 µm), and using yarns of the same count, resulted in a progressively higher fabric mass per unit area as mean fiber diameter was progressively reduced.

Medical textiles as vascular implants and their success to mimic natural arteries

Vascular implants belong to a specialised class of medical textiles. The basic purpose of a vascular implant (graft and stent) is to act as an artificial conduit or substitute for a diseased artery. However, the long-term healing function depends on its ability to mimic the mechanical and biological behaviour of the artery. This requires a thorough understanding of the structure and function of an artery, which can then be translated into a synthetic structure based on the capabilities of the manufacturing method utilised. Common textile manufacturing techniques, such as weaving, knitting, braiding, and electrospinning, are frequently used to design vascular implants for research and commercial purposes for the past decades. However, the ability to match attributes of a vascular substitute to those of a native artery still remains a challenge. The synthetic implants have been found to cause disturbance in biological, biomechanical, and hemodynamic parameters at the implant site, which has been widely attributed to their structural design. In this work, we reviewed the design aspect of textile vascular implants and compared them to the structure of a natural artery as a basis for assessing the level of success as an implant. The outcome of this work is expected to encourage future design strategies for developing improved long lasting vascular implants.

Entry, reforms complementarity and performance:a tale of two Indian manufacturing sectors

In this paper, we use plant-level data from two Indian industries, namely, electrical machinery and textiles, to examine the empirical relationship between structural reforms like abandonment of entry restrictions to the product market, competition and firm-level productivity and efficiency. These industries have faced different sets of policies since Independence but both were restricted in the adoption of technology and in the development of optimal scales of production. They also belonged to the first set of industries that benefited from the liberalization process started in the 1980s. Our results suggest that both the industries have improved their efficiency and scales of operation by the turn of the century. However, the process of adjustment seems to have been worked out more fully for electrical machinery. We also find evidence of spatial fragmentation of the market as late as 2000–2001. Gains in labour productivity were much more evident in states that either have a strong history of industrial activity or those that have experienced significant improvements in business environment since 1991.

Participation of portuguese manufacturing industry in global value chains

Portugal’s manufacturing sector has a significant importance both in national income and employment. As has been pointed out by several researchers, the traditional methods of analysis fail to grasp all the dimensions of economic competitiveness. This dissertation is then, at its core, an analysis of Portugal’s manufacturing industry in terms of the latter’s value added to production and impact to employment under the framework of global value chains. The current dissertation seeks to study in which way the Portuguese manufacturing industry, and its respective sectors, has a direct and indirect impact on the creation of value added and employment and how this impact can be measured. For development of this work the input-output approach for calculation of multipliers and the new framework proposed by Timmer et al. (2013) for calculation of GVC income and GVC jobs indicators were used, elaborated on the basis of the WIOD project dataset. Moreover, to illustrate the application of the provided methodology the Portuguese textile industry was used as an example. It was found that the changes in final demand of such sectors as Pulp, Paper, Printing and Publishing; Machinery, Nec and Textiles and Textile Products would have a larger impact on generated value added than other manufacturing sectors. At the same time, employment created by the changes in final demand would be more impacted by such sectors as Food, Beverages and Tobacco; Wood and Products of Wood and Cork and Textiles and Textile Products. In this regard, the number of low-skilled workers in Portugal seems to be more effected by changes in final demand, than those occupied by higher -skilled individuals. Moreover, it was found that the distribution of GVC income and GVC jobs for the Portuguese manufacturing industry shares a similar outlook. However, upon closer inspection of GVC labour distribution by skill levels there seems to exist a general progression in which low-skilled jobs requirements are met by local resources, while the need for higher skilled jobs require a greater “off-shoring” of work The results obtained through calculations of presented multipliers provide a powerful tool for policy makers in strategic planning of development of national economy. Using the provided methodology and obtained results, a government and supranational organizations could define which industry would have the greatest impact for an additional unit of output generated through the economy, and thus define the sectors for further investments.

Experimental studies on comparison of microwave curing and thermal curing of epoxy resins used for alternative mould materials

In this present work attempts have been made to study the glass transition temperature of alternative mould materials by using both microwave heating and conventional oven heating. In this present work three epoxy resins, namely R2512, R2515 and R2516, which are commonly used for making injection moulds have been used in combination with two hardeners H2403 and H2409. The magnetron microwave generator used in this research is operating at a frequency of 2.45 GHz with a hollow rectangular waveguide. In order to distinguish the effects between the microwave and conventional heating, a number of experiments were performed to test their mechanical properties such as tensile and flexural strengths. Additionally, differential scanning calorimeter technique was implemented to measure the glass transition temperature on both microwave and conventional heating. This study provided necessary evidences to establish that microwave heated mould materials resulted with higher glass transition temperature than the conventional heating. Finally, attempts were also made to study the microstructure of microwave-cured materials by using a scanning electron microscope in order to analyze the morphology of cured specimens.