Higher-order spectral analysis of nonlinear ocean surface gravity waves

Higher-order spectral analysis is used to detect the presence of secondary and tertiary forced waves associated with the nonlinearity of energetic swell observed in 8- and 13-m water depths. Higher-order spectral analysis techniques are first described and then applied to the field data, followed by a summary of the results.

Wake angle for surface gravity waves on a finite depth fluid

Linear water wave theory suggests that wave patterns caused by a steadily moving disturbance are contained within a wedge whose half-angle depends on the depth-based Froude number $F_H$. For the problem of flow past an axisymmetric pressure distribution in a finite-depth channel, we report on the apparent angle of the wake, which is the angle of maximum peaks. For moderately deep channels, the dependence of the apparent wake angle on the Froude number is very different to the wedge angle, and varies smoothly as $F_H$ passes through the critical value $F_H=1$. For shallow water, the two angles tend to follow each other more closely, which leads to very large apparent wake angles for certain regimes.

Effects of a steady nonuniform current on the characteristics of surface gravity waves /

"December 1974."

Ocean bottom pressure records from the Cascadia array and short surface gravity waves

The ocean bottom pressure records from eight stations of the Cascadia array are used to investigate the properties of short surface gravity waves with frequencies ranging from 0.2 to 5 Hz. It is found that the pressure spectrum at all sites is a well-defined function of the wind speed U10 and frequency f, with only a minor shift of a few dB from one site to another that can be attributed to variations in bottom properties. This observation can be combined with the theoretical prediction that the ocean bottom pressure spectrum is proportional to the surface gravity wave spectrum E(f) squared, times the overlap integral I(f) which is given by the directional wave spectrum at each frequency. This combination, using E(f) estimated from modeled spectra or parametric spectra, yields an overlap integral I(f) that is a function of the local wave age inline image. This function is maximum for f∕fPM = 8 and decreases by 10 dB for f∕fPM = 2 and f∕fPM = 30. This shape of I(f) can be interpreted as a maximum width of the directional wave spectrum at f∕fPM = 8, possibly equivalent to an isotropic directional spectrum, and a narrower directional distribution toward both the dominant low frequencies and the higher capillary-gravity wave frequencies.

Similarities between ion waves in plasmas and gravity waves in incompressible fluids

Some similarities between ion waves in plasmas and gravity waves in incompressible fluids are investigated. It is shown that for zero ion temperature the ion-wave dispersion relation is similar to that of gravity waves in a stratified liquid between rigid, horizontal walls; for large wavelength the ion waves behave as the surface gravity waves of shallow-water theory. The general character of the pattern of ion waves arising in steady plasma flows is analyzed for arbitrary ion temperature, wavelength, and acoustic mach number (which is based on the ion-acoustic speed), and is compared to the pattern of surface gravity waves in steady water flows when surface tension is taken into account.

On Multi-Dimensional Packets of Surface Waves

By using the method of operators of multiple scales, two coupled nonlinear equations are derived, which govern the slow amplitude modulation of surface gravity waves in two space dimensions. The equations of Davey and Stewartson, which also govern the two-dimensional modulation of the amplitude of gravity waves, are derived as a special case of our equations. For a fully dispersed wave, symmetric about a point which moves with the group velocity, the coupled equations reduce to a nonlinear Schrödinger equation with extra terms representing the effect of the curvature of the wavefront.

Capillary-gravity waves against a corrugated vertical cliff

An analysis involving a transformation of the velocity potential and a Fourier Sine Transform technique is described to study the effect of surface tension on incoming surface waves against a vertical cliff with a periodic wall perturbation. Known results are recovered as particular cases of the general problem considered. An analytical expression is derived for the surface elevation, at far distances from the shore-line, by using Watson's lemma and a representative table of numerical values of the coefficients of the resulting asymptotic expansion is also presented.

Steady capillary-gravity waves on deep water

The properties of capillary-gravity waves of permanent form on deep water are studied. Two different formulations to the problem are given. The theory of simple bifurcation is reviewed. For small amplitude waves a formal perturbation series is used. The Wilton ripple phenomenon is reexamined and shown to be associated with a bifurcation in which a wave of permanent form can double its period. It is shown further that Wilton's ripples are a special case of a more general phenomenon in which bifurcation into subharmonics and factorial higher harmonics can occur. Numerical procedures for the calculation of waves of finite amplitude are developed. Bifurcation and limit lines are calculated. Pure and combination waves are continued to maximum amplitude. It is found that the height is limited in all cases by the surface enclosing one or more bubbles. Results for the shape of gravity waves are obtained by solving an integra-differential equation. It is found that the family of solutions giving the waveheight or equivalent parameter has bifurcation points. Two bifurcation points and the branches emanating from them are found specifically, corresponding to a doubling and tripling of the wavelength. Solutions on the new branches are calculated.

Turbulent flow structure in experimental laboratory wind-generated gravity waves

This paper is the third part of a report on systematic measurements and analyses of wind-generated water waves in a laboratory environment. The results of the measurements of the turbulent flow on the water side are presented here, the details of which include the turbulence structure, the correlation functions, and the length and velocity scales. It shows that the mean turbulent velocity profiles are logarithmic, and the flows are hydraulically rough. The friction velocity in the water boundary layer is an order of magnitude smaller than that in the wind boundary layer. The level of turbulence is enhanced immediately beneath the water surface due to micro-breaking, which reflects that the Reynolds shear stress is of the order u *w 2. The vertical velocities of the turbulence are related to the relevant velocity scale at the still-water level. The autocorrelation function in the vertical direction shows features of typical anisotropic turbulence comprising a large range of wavelengths. The ratio between the microscale and macroscale can be expressed as λ/Λ=a Re Λ n, with the exponent n slightly different from -1/2, which is the value when turbulence production and dissipation are in balance. On the basis of the wavelength and turbulent velocity, the free-surface flows in the present experiments fall into the wavy free-surface flow regime. The integral turbulent scale on the water side alone underestimates the degree of disturbance at the free surface. © 2012 Elsevier B.V.

On the detection and attribution of gravity waves generated by the 20 March 2015 solar eclipse

Internal gravity waves are generated as adjustment radiation whenever a sudden change in forcing causes the atmosphere to depart from its large-scale balanced state. Such a forcing anomaly occurs during a solar eclipse, when the Moon’s shadow cools part of the Earth’s surface. The resulting atmospheric gravity waves are associated with pressure and temperature perturbations, which in principle are detectable both at the surface and aloft. In this study, surface pressure and temperature data from two UK sites at Reading and Lerwick are analysed for eclipse-driven gravity-wave perturbations during the 20 March 2015 solar eclipse over north-west Europe. Radiosonde wind data from the same two sites are also analysed using a moving parcel analysis method, to determine the periodicities of the waves aloft. On this occasion, the perturbations both at the surface and aloft are found not to be confidently attributable to eclipse-driven gravity waves. We conclude that the complex synoptic weather conditions over the UK at the time of this particular eclipse helped to mask any eclipse-driven gravity waves.

Offshore stereo measurements of gravity waves: classical epipolar and novel variational techniques

Stereo video techniques are effective for estimating the space-time wave dynamics over an area of the ocean. Indeed, a stereo camera view allows retrieval of both spatial and temporal data whose statistical content is richer than that of time series data retrieved from point wave probes. Classical epipolar techniques and modern variational methods are reviewed to reconstruct the sea surface from the stereo pairs sequentially in time. Current improvements of the variational methods are presented.

Offshore stereo measurements of gravity waves

Stereo video techniques are effective for estimating the space-time wave dynamics over an area of the ocean. Indeed, a stereo camera view allows retrieval of both spatial and temporal data whose statistical content is richer than that of time series data retrieved from point wave probes. To prove this, we consider an application of the Wave Acquisition Stereo System (WASS) for the analysis of offshore video measurements of gravity waves in the Northern Adriatic Sea. In particular, we deployed WASS at the oceanographic platform Acqua Alta, off the Venice coast, Italy. Three experimental studies were performed, and the overlapping field of view of the acquired stereo images covered an area of approximately 1100 m2. Analysis of the WASS measurements show that the sea surface can be accurately estimated in space and time together, yielding associated directional spectra and wave statistics that agree well with theoretical models. From the observed wavenumber-frequency spectrum one can also predict the vertical profile of the current flow underneath the wave surface. Finally, future improvements of WASS and applications are discussed.

Bistable regime of surface magnetoplasma waves excitation at a semiconductor-metal interface

The theoretical analysis of the bistability associated with the excitation of surface magnetoplasma waves (SWs) propagating across an external magnetic field at the semiconductor-metal interface by the attenuated total reflection (ATR) method is presented. The Kretschmann-Raether configuration of the ATR method is considered, i.e. a plane electromagnetic wave is incident onto a metal surface through a coupling prism. The third-order nonlinearity of the semiconductor medium is considered in the general form using the formalism of the third-order nonlinear susceptibilities and of the perturbation theory. The examples of the nonlinear mechanisms which influence the SW propagation are given. The analytical and numerical analyses show that the realization of bistable regimes of the SW excitation is possible. The SW amplitude values providing bistability in the structure are evaluated and are reasonably low to provide the experimental observation.

Surface magnetoplasma waves at the interface between a plasma-like medium and a metal in the Voigt geometry

Theoretical and experimental results associated with the studies of different properties of surface-type waves (SW) in plasma-like medium-metal structures are reviewed. The propagation of surface waves in the Voigt geometry (the SW propagate across the external magnetic field, which is parallel to the interface) is considered. Various problems dealing with the linear properties of the SW (dispersion characteristics, electromagnetic fields topography, influence of the inhomogeneity of the medium, etc.); excitation mechanisms of the plasma-metal waveguide structures (parametric, drift, diffraction, etc. mechanisms); nonlinear effects associated with SW propagation (higher harmonics generation, self-interaction, nonlinear damping, nonlinear interactions, etc.) are presented. In many cases the results are valid for both gaseous and solid-state plasmas. © 1999 Elsevier Science B.V. All rights reserved.

Heating self-interaction mechanism of surface magnetoplasma waves in plasma-like medium bounded by metal

The influence of electron heating in the high-frequency surface magnetoplasma wave(SM) field on dispersion properties of the considered SM is investigated. High frequency SM propagate at the interface between a plasma like medium with a finite electrons pressure and a metal. The nonlinear dispersion relation for the SM is derived and investigated.